Administrators JeroenPeters Posted October 6, 2013 Administrators Share Posted October 6, 2013 Wow... lovely progress... Good to see the colour variations on the engines. @Jamme: this is also a great tool for glue: http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_122&products_id=439 Cheers! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 Looking awesome there Mike...do you have plans to add an wash to the cockpit to make all those decals pop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodshedwings Posted October 6, 2013 Author Share Posted October 6, 2013 Where did you find and who makes your "Glue Looper"? Wow... lovely progress... Good to see the colour variations on the engines. Hi Jamme and Jeroen, thanks for the kind words. @ Jamme, I spotted the 'glue looper' on Aeroscale and thought it would come in handy, as my previous attempts at precision glueing were hit and miss to say the least. This has improved things dramatically. Here is a link to the article- http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=14494 Looking awesome there Mike...do you have plans to add an wash to the cockpit to make all those decals pop? Cheers Dave, I have added a subtle wash to some of the elements in the cockpit, the brass work and the whicker seat being examples. Maybe it doesn't come across in the photos. I'm open to suggestions as to where you think it might benefit though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamme Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 Thank you for the link! Chers, Jamme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodshedwings Posted October 15, 2013 Author Share Posted October 15, 2013 Got one bank of cylinders wired up with ignition leads. Used thin wire stripped from some speaker cable. Each wire was cut to length and inserted in the hole in the cylinder head without glueing. I then formed the cables into a loom and secured this with loops of wire. Each wire was then fixed in place with cyano glue. Still to paint them up with a buff colour 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators JeroenPeters Posted October 15, 2013 Administrators Share Posted October 15, 2013 Great Work! Super wiring. Nice to see you take your time like me! Easy does it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamme Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 That's a nice wiring you started there! Congrats, Jamme 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodshedwings Posted October 15, 2013 Author Share Posted October 15, 2013 Hey Jeroen, I'm not the quickest, but I'm not usually this slow! Lots of other stuff distracting me at the mo'. Thought I'd better put something up! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingco57 Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 Sorry for the late reply, only just noticed this. Love your work on the canvas spent ammo bag. I managed to effectively destroy mine and had to fashion a new one from Tamiya tape. Yours looks very realistic. cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodshedwings Posted October 27, 2013 Author Share Posted October 27, 2013 Thanks for the comment Cees. The PE canvas bag was fiddly and I keep knocking it off! Do you have any photos of your build? I'd like to see what you did with the Tamiya tape and how your model turned out. Cheers, Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodshedwings Posted October 27, 2013 Author Share Posted October 27, 2013 Managing to squeeze in some time at the bench. Painted and fitted the seat belts and completed the engine The belts were painted with Tamiya acrylics mixed with Tamiya retarder and Humbrol silver enamel. They were then treated to a wash of Mig brown wash, before bending them to shape and attaching them with Gators Grip acrylic glue. I completed the engine by finishing off the ignition wiring and adding the remaining pipes and components before painting, again with the Tamiya acrylic / retarder mix and washing with Mig dark wash. I'm looking forward to getting these sub-assemblies attached to the fuselage after dealing with the seams and getting some PC10 on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 Wow that Falcon came up very well! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamme Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 That pit and that engine looks beautiful. Great job you did here! Congrats, Jamme 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingco57 Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 Thanks for the comment Cees. The PE canvas bag was fiddly and I keep knocking it off! Do you have any photos of your build? I'd like to see what you did with the Tamiya tape and how your model turned out. Cheers, Mike. Hi Mike, That topic is somewhere in the work in progress forum. I made the bag from Tamiya tape as I could not get the pe part to fit. I am still in the painting stage but lost interest and it is now in a box waiting to be ressurected. Cees 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodshedwings Posted October 28, 2013 Author Share Posted October 28, 2013 Hi Mike, That topic is somewhere in the work in progress forum. I made the bag from Tamiya tape as I could not get the pe part to fit. I am still in the painting stage but lost interest and it is now in a box waiting to be ressurected. Cees I had trouble attaching it to the frame so I stuck a strip of styrene across the top and hung it from that. This will be hidden from view when the gun platform is in place. Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodshedwings Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 Having completed the cockpit, I turned my attention to the fuselage and wings. I glued the two halves of the fuselage together and attached the firewall, then filled and sanded the seams, top and bottom. I then inserted the cockpit assembly through the hole in the bottom and filled and sanded the subsequent gap and step before adding the vertical tail and stabilisers. I built up the upper and lower wings and this gives a good idea of the overall size of the model. Nice. It's beginning to look like an aeroplane. After doing all this clunky stuff I felt like building something a little more delicate, so tackled the machine guns and mount. I was thinking the PE would be tricky in this area but it proved to be very straightforward. Everything here went together well, the styrene parts parts being a push fit before using Tamiya extra thin to fix in place. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingco57 Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Looking good, You had the same seam underneath too, apart from that the fit is great. Cees 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamme Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Great job! Like it very much. Cheers, Jamme 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodshedwings Posted November 8, 2013 Author Share Posted November 8, 2013 It's been the week to try new things. I received a new double action, gravity fed airbrush in the post and have been getting to grips with that, having solely used my Badger 200 syphon fed for the last few years. So far I am liking it. I thought I would put it to good use doing some pre-shading on the underside surfaces of the Biff, again, a new technique for me (I have pre-shaded panel lines before, with varying success). I cut thin strips from Tamiya tape and masked the ribs, before spraying a brown colour (XF68) over each one. I chose brown as I felt it would look more natural beneath the underside colour (XF55). I then removed the tape and applied the XF55, slowly working it to get the effect I was looking for. The trick with this is to get it just right. Too much paint and you obliterate all the hard work you have done previously and too little, and it looks overdone and unnatural. I am pleased with how it has turned out so far. Not sure how I am going to approach the PC10 on the upper surfaces and fuselage. I'm thinking post shade but not sure my airbrush work has enough finesse. I have saved all the little strips of tape that I used for the underside and will re-purpose these if I decide to go the pre-shade route again. Would be interested to hear how others have tackled this. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodshedwings Posted November 9, 2013 Author Share Posted November 9, 2013 Thanks for the comment Cees. The PE canvas bag was fiddly and I keep knocking it off! Do you have any photos of your build? I'd like to see what you did with the Tamiya tape and how your model turned out. Cheers, Mike. I can hear an ominous rattling comig from inside the fuselage. I guess that dratted bag has fallen off again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodshedwings Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 It's PC10 time. I mixed Gunze Olive Drab with Tamiya Nato Brown untill I had what looked like a good aproximation of that colour. I sprayed it fairly evenly on the fuselage surfaces. On the wings and tail feathers, I sprayed a finer overall coat and then followed up with a heavier application between the ribs to give some contrast. When the decals are on I am going to mask off the rib tapes and go over them with a very thin mix of Tamiya Smoke just to accentuate them a bit. I masked and sprayed the metal areas of the fuselage with Tamiya XF53 Grey. The wings and fuselage were then given a coat of Future in preparation for the decals and a wash. Unfortunately I had a run of Future on the fuselage. This was sanded back when cured and will be re-coated in my PC 10 mix. I commenced decalling with the fin flashes. I am used to using Micro Set and Sol to get decals to settle down, but decided to use the water and hairdryer method this time. I first trimmed the decal to be a closer fit to the shape of the fin. I have to admit to feeling a sense of trepidation about using this method, imagining the decal to shrivel and then disappear in a puff of smoke. My fears were un-warranted though as it worked exceptionally well. I did use a small amount of Micro Sol around the edges to finish off. I also got some base colour on the undercarriage components. I sprayed the hubs and wheel covers in Tamiya XF55 and then, using my Olfa circle cutter, I made masks from Tamiya tape, applied these to the hubs and sprayed XF63 German grey for the tyres. The struts were sprayed PC10 and the axle in semi-gloss black X18. These are now ready for detail painting, clear coat and weathering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodshedwings Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 Holy decalling disaster Batman! I used the water and hairdryer method and this was the result. More bubbles than an Aero. Have tried dousing with Micro-Sol but they just won't settle. If anyone has some advice on how to repair this or how to avoid in future, then I am all ears. Otherwise I will have to sand it off and decide whether to stick with this scheme or switch to another. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulster Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Tedious as it may sound. Prick each bubble (yeah yeah, I know) with a needle or new #11 blade. Then re-Micro Sol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodshedwings Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 Cheers for the advice Paulster, but bin there done that. No joy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonathanReed Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 Looking Good! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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