How to use Decals from a Wingnut Wings kit...

[Dave J]

How to apply Decals from a Wingnut Wings kit.

Quite often I see the question posted on many forums asking what setting decal solutions/solvents should be used on Wingnut Wings kits decals. Normally I see mixed answers that are not correct.

 

Wingnut Wings use very high quality printed decals from Catograf in Italy in all their kitsets. The recommendation from Wingnut Wings is not to use any setting decal solutions/solvents at all, as it may damage the very thin decals provided within the kit. So I can hear you all saying, What do we use then??? Well the correct answer is Heat...

 

Over this quick step by step, I will show you the correct method use to apply decals from a Wingnut Wings kit.

 

Step 1

After you have cleaned up and assembled your parts, spray the surface with a glossy paint to prep the surface for decaling. You can use any colour you like as long as you finish it with a Gloss Varnish or it's a Gloss paint. Do not use Future straight onto the bare plastic as you may have issues of the decal adhering to the plastic. Here I have used a Super Metallic Colour from the Mr Hobby range.

 

Step 2

 

To remove the decals from the backing paper by soaking them in lukewarm water for about 30-45 seconds

 

Step 3

 

Add a couple of drops of water to the surface of the area where you are going to apply the decal.

 

Step 4

Apply the decal and move into position, using a wet finger or brush.

 

Step 5

Using a cotton bud/ball or a paper towel, lightly push the excess water underneath the decal out.

 

Step 6

Using a hairdryer, apply heat to the surface where the decal is located. Using a cotton bud apply a small amount of pressure directly onto the decal, and pushing around all the surface detail pushing out any remaining water residue. With tight corners and bends, add a small cut/slit in the decal and use the heat from the hairdryer to conform them into place by heat shrinking the decal.

 

Step 7

Once the decals are dry (normally within 2-3 hours), seal them in using a Varnish. Personally, I use a Semi or Gloss varnish, if I am going to add any washes to parts. Here I have used Alclad Flat Kote on the decal prior to weathering.



Step 8

Weather parts to your liking..

 

This how I have been doing all my Wingnut Wings builds, its a very simple and quick method. It also normally speeds up the decaling process using this hairdryer method.

[James H]

Cheers. These loz are a bitch!

[Dave J]

I know what you mean Jim! Getting those decals around tight bends can be a headache!

[Jamme]

Thank you for sharing!

Nice tip.

Cheers,

Jamme

[Grant]

Wow, thanks for that - that's really very useful.  Would you say this is applicable for all Cartograf decals?

[Dave J]

Wow, thanks for that - that's really very useful.  Would you say this is applicable for all Cartograf decals?

 

I am not to sure on that Grant, as Cartograf do have different grades of decal paper... I have tried this on some other manufacturers decals and it does seem to work..

[LindsayT]

Thanks for the tutorial, Dave. I appreciate you taking the time to provide nice photos, too. It's so much more valuable to have pictures, rather than just text for these things.

 

Lindsay

[Guest styrenedemon]

Good to know if I ever get around to doing a WnW kit. I'm interested in trying on some other decals though.

[Jeroenveen1]

I used Sol and Set on my Fokker. Worked like a charm if you're not heavy-handed with that stuff! Great to see this approach, never knew that would work and I'm sure going to give it a try… Thanks for that tip! Cheers, Jeroen

[rkranias]

wow!  it was worth waking up this morning. 

 

I learned something.

 

thanks Dave.

[mikec]

............................................

 

 

 

 

Mike

[Daywalker]

Great tips, thanks for sharing!  I tried the hair dryer technique and it worked like a charm- thanks!

[Fjcarone]

Thanks for tutorial.

[JonathanReed]

The very reason I joined!  Thank you as hopefully I will be performing this soon on my new Hisso!

 

 

[Drdave]

I've used this with great success on rudder stripes. If you leave a mm of overhang the heat brings the edges together into a sharp edge