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Fokker Dreidecker


Umlaufmotor

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Hi, thanks for your kind words.

You may of course copy the aluminum paint technology ........................
Please transfer me hundreds of dollars per copy to the following bank account: :ph34r:.................. :lol:

It continues with the back wall.

Here the laces.
First I tried it with copper wire 0.15 mm.
Is too thick.

Ruumlckwand9_zpse5de0daa.jpg

 

With 0.10 mm copper wire the thing works.
 

Ruumlckwand10_zps89a36f5b.jpg

 

It is important that the copper wire is annealed over a candle flame.

This has two reasons:

First, the wire is very soft and it can be very easy to bend.
Second, the copper wire is much darker and the copper color disappears.

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Now for the seat belts.
I use paper tape for this model of "RB Productions".
I like these things, they look very real in scale 1/32.
The metal buckles are primed with Mr. Metal primer.

 

Gurt1_zps34e2c925.jpg

 

After then paint with Gunze RLM02.

 

Gurt2_zps767e918f.jpg

 

The belts should look a little used.
The metal buckles were carefully scratched with a very fine steel wool.
Be careful, it's quickly polished off a little too much color.

 

Gurt3_zps9b650944.jpg

 

So that the metal does not shine, it is sealed with semi-gloss clear.

Gurt4_zps4a8f4522.jpg

Gurt5_zpsa926e350.jpg

 

The belts themselves are treated with a highly diluted light brown oil paint.

If the belts are factory restated, they are painted with turpentine.

So that the paper is soft and the belts can be bent much better in place.

 

Gurt6_zps6dc275f1.jpg

 

Servus

Bertl

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The seat is fixed to the rear wall to the same screw points as the original.
A 0.4 mm hole was drilled through the seat and the support.
As a retaining bolt a small resin rivet was used.

Here in these pictures it's just stuck, not glued.

(On these pictures is very clear to see, how thin the seat has been sanded down.)

Ruumlckwand10a_zpse6dd36a6.jpg

Ruumlckwand11_zpsf5f50644.jpg

Ruumlckwand12_zpse44fb525.jpg

Ruumlckwand13_zps17c0b1e4.jpg

Ruumlckwand14_zps855bb5e4.jpg

Ruumlckwand15_zps1085b137.jpg

 

Servus

Bertl

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Bertl,

 

I've just read through your build and, after having picked up my jaw from the floor, have to say that this is brilliant modelling, real modelling !

 

Amazing and it's nice to see that it's being accomplished with something other than a Wingnut WIngs kit too.  So, any converts to the Roden camp, please follow me to my store !!!   :D  :D  :D

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Now to the control column.

In contrast to the Dr.1 series, the Dreidecker prototype has no gun trigger.
The MG triggers are removed from the kit part.
Three small holes indicate the screws for the wood handles.

S1_zpsf73c9f7a.jpg

 

On the bottom of the gas handle two 0.15 mm holes are drilled.

In these holes, the Bowden cables to the carburetor are attached.

 

S2_zpseeeaacea.jpg

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Although we do not need the gun trigger's, but we need the Schnirps-knopf (ignition breaker.

These little thing is manufactured from a variety of plastic waste.

 

Schnirps1_zpsc69c8ddd.jpg

 

Schnirps3_zpsf1444e7e.jpg

 

Schnirps2_zps6822bac0.jpg

 

Schnirps4_zps63499591.jpg

 

At the back is a hole for the electrical cable to the ignition interrupter housing on the engine.

 

Schnirps5_zps0f44b176.jpg

 

Done, the little thing is in its place.

 

Schnirps6_zps786d8238.jpg

 

Schnirps7_zps4f898d81.jpg

 

Servus

Bertl

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We need a tachometer with our Fokker V.4. This is not included in the kit.

As a template I use the tachometer from the WNW Hansa Brandenburg-kit (kit Part Nr.:47).

 

D1_zpsc085a7dc.jpg

 

The case of our tachometer is made ​​entirely of plastic waste.

A 0.3 mm hole serves as the connection of the tachometer shaft (red arrow).

 

D2_zps6e67945c.jpg

D3_zpse638c45f.jpg

 

The dial is made ​​from a very thin sanded WNW plastic waste.

 

D4_zpsd31fcab0.jpg

D5_zpsef4fa2e1.jpg

 

The housing is painted with Tamiya semi-gloss-black.

 

D6_zpsc72c6111.jpg

 

The decal also comes from WNW.

 

D7_zpsca0156d9.jpg

D8_zps2f71dd93.jpg

 

The glass disc was punched out of a plastic bag.

 

D9_zps51019c11.jpg

 

The instruments Bezel comes from HGW.

 

D10_zpsca4b14c9.jpg

D11_zps7214db38.jpg

 

The glass and the brass bezel are stuck with Vallejo Still Waters.

 

D12_zps0ba4ef21.jpg

D13_zpsdf535c42.jpg

D14_zps01f1421c.jpg

 

The gold rim around the Instruments-face was presented with Bare Metal Foil.

 

D15_zps9301f4cd.jpg

D16_zps740f87dd.jpg

D17_zpse3f940ba.jpg

D18_zpsb7d4826a.jpg

 

The adjustment knob was created from a piece of 0,5mm brass wire.

 

D19_zps57142fff.jpg

D20_zpse1fa107d.jpg

 

The bracket (red arrow) is a piece of 0,6mm brass wire.

 

D21_zps57625a77.jpg

D22_zps370ae82e.jpg

 

I used as a template Achim Engels Fokker EV built.

 

D21a_zps0afe96ec.jpeg

D21b_zps5d03c1f5.jpeg

 

Looks cool, this little tachometer - eh? :-)

 

Servus

Bertl

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Thank you all so much for your kind words.

Here the pre-painted control column.
I used a mixture of about 90% Tamiya semi-gloss black and 10% light gray.

The wooden handles were painted with Gunze radome, the wood grain was made with oil paint burnt sienna .

Then the handles were painted with a thin layer of Tamiya clear orange.

It was then shaded with black oil paint to highlight the wells of the three screws on the wooden handles.

 

Servus

Bertl

 

Schnirps8_zps37aa72bc.jpg

Schnirps9_zps133f77dc.jpg

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It continues with the interior of our Fokker V.4 triplane prototypes.
Werner Voss did a test flight in July 1917 on the Fokker Factory Airfield in Schwerin.

I think, Werner needed a working compass to find back to the airfield.
In the kit-box is a compass, the kit part No.13.
Well, the kit-compass actually looks pretty nice ....................................... but unfortunately it does not work. :rolleyes:
Werner would never find it back home to the Airfield.

K1_zpsf7bbf705.jpg

 

Ok - now we cut the kit-compass.

 

K2_zps1768531d.jpg

Everything is much sanded thinner.

In the compass fork, 3 holes with 0.3 mm diameter are drilled now.

Then these holes are drilled with 0.4 mm and with 0.5 mm lat ast.

0,5mm is the diameter of which we finally need .

 

K3_zpsd1ea5f63.jpg

 

K4_zps0e043c5e.jpg

 

For the presentation of the inner ring, I use a piece of scrap plastic from a WNW kit.

The plastic from WNW is very tough, you can work excellent with it.

 

K5_zps7dbe707e.jpg

 

We need 4 opposite 0.5mm holes in the ring.

 

K6_zpsec2293d7.jpg

 

The ring is very carefully worked out from the inside.

We need an inner diameter of 3.2 mm.
Then the edges are somewhat smoothed.

Now the ring is cut away from the scrap plastic.

 

K7_zps29783f47.jpg

 

If everything went well, then these parts are in front of us on our work bench  B)

 

K8_zpse6e33c68.jpg

 

........................................ tomorrow we will continue with the compass.................................

 

Servus

Bertl

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Thanks, I'm glad that you like this little compass-work.

It continues with the compass.
Small brass tubes are inserted in the two holes of the compass fork.
These brass tubes serve as bearings for the compass ring.
Outer diameter 0.5 mm, internal diameter 0.33 mm.

 

K9_zps386eb976.jpg

 

Four brass bearings are mounted at the compass ring.
Here's a size comparison with a match.

 

K10_zps6119e879.jpg

 

As bearing bolts I used brass tubes with 0.3 mm diameter.
Here in the picture as a test, a mixtture with 0,3 mm brass tube and a 0.3 mm steel wire.

 

K11_zpsded93a07.jpg

 

K12_zpsb3b80b80.jpg

 

K13_zps6e409ab8.jpg

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Now the compass housing.

The rim of the compass is made of a thin aluminum tube.

 

K14_zpsfb877be7.jpg

 

K15_zps325ed8f2.jpg

 

For the case I'm using again WNW scrap plastic.
Same procedure as before for the bearings.

 

K16_zpsf42eabf5.jpg

 

K17_zps02c88c08.jpg

 

Now the case is cut to the correct length.

 

K18_zps46ca6486.jpg

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