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Showing most liked content since 04/26/2017 in all areas

  1. 17 likes
    Here she is! I used the Zoukei Mura Ta-152H-0 kit, some after market and some scratch building efforts. Build thread here: This was my aim: And here's my rendition:
  2. 13 likes
    This was my first WnW build, and my first WWI build in many years, and I sincerely enjoyed the whole process. Having wrestled with old Aurora kits, and even Revell and Airfix kits in the 60s and 70s, building a kit from WnW is an epiphany. The turret mounted launching platforms for the Pups, and other aircraft, vary greatly from ship to ship so I created what I felt was a generic, but historically plausible, structure. Same deal with the tie downs, tail support, turret itself and personal markings. Figures are being worked on now. I was thrilled when WnW announced the Ship's Camel and a similar project is now underway using that great kit. Thanks for taking a look. Cheers from NYC, Michael
  3. 9 likes
    Hi folk's, time to get started on this wooden wonder. Today i added two new colors to my woodgrain color chart. Those are the two at the right side. Reason for this : i wasn't happy with the colors i had, so i made two new ones based on a yellow base coat. For the base coat i used Tamiya XF-3 and regarding the oil colors i used Raw Umber and Burnt Umber. First thing to do, a black primer coat to the part's. Second, the part's that needed the woodgrain color where first painted in XF-3 Yellow. The gondola insides where all painted in their colors. Paint's used are : XF-3 Yellow, X-32 Titanium Silver and Mr. Paint clear doped linnen. Also, fuel tank, pilot's seat and some details where painted with X-32 Titanium Silver. For the woodgrain i used the same technique as i did with my two previous WNW build's. I choosed the XF-3 + Burnt Umber combination. With this technique there are many color variations that can be achieved, just by the use of more or less clean brushes. Here you can see two different woodgrain textures with the same paint. Gondola And some other part's Greetz Danny
  4. 9 likes
    Kind time of the day, let me introduce one more model New model from the Revell 1/32 Me-262 B1a / U1 (WNr 111980) Red 12 of 10./NJG 11 "Kommando Welter" of Lieutenant Herbert Altner. Reinfeld, Lübeck, April 1945 You can see the history of construction here - http://royalscale.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?id=716
  5. 8 likes
    I have just completed what was supposed to be a quick build but it took me nine months.
  6. 8 likes
    P-47D-26-RA, Lt. James R. Hopkins, 509th FS, 405th FG, 9th AF, Ophoven, Belgium, March 1945 HGW - belt Master - barrels Paint - MR Paint, Tamiya
  7. 7 likes
    Hi all, I thought I'd post some photos of my 1/32 Trumpeter Ju 87A, done in Condor Legion colours. The markings are custom masks, as is the emblem on the spat. The model was built with Eduard extras, and the paints are from MRP (Mr Paint, Slovakia). In all, a trouble-free project. I modded the cowl to correct a couple of anomalies but didn't bother with the lower spat shape. I could live with that. This model and build article are in the latest edition of Military Illustrated Modeller, which should be in the shops right now.
  8. 7 likes
    Been awhile. Except for the barrels it is oob. So…. I guess it's not oob. Used Vallejo Air colors and Silly Putty for mask. Behind the TC's search light lens is foil from a candy wrapper. Copula vision ports are a mix of Tamiya clear green and blue that I went to heavy on.
  9. 7 likes
    Hi Everyone, As the title implies, i managed to finish yet another 32nd scale aircraft model. Building on the learning curve gained from my earlier Goodyear FG-1, i present to you my F4U-2 Corsair, in the markings of VF (N)-101 aboard USS ENTERPRISE. This model uses a combination of conversion parts from Lone Star Models (Radome), AMS Resin(Flame Dampeners) and OWL (Radio Altimeter antennae). I also used the Barracuda Studios Corsair Cockpit Placard decal set and the Diamond Tread F4U/F6F wheels. As conversion efforts go, it was actually pretty simple, and one of the big benefits i had was the pilot who flew this aircraft is actually still alive! Bob Brunson flew this very plane and is alive and well in Estes Park, CO. Bob crashed in Bu Aer 02710, "Number 10" while coming aboard ENTERPRISE at night. Bob walked away with hardly a scratch, but his Corsair was deep sixed one night in May of 1944. This was my first big experiment in using Tamiya Acrylics; On my FG-1 i used Mr Color for the first time, but because of a lot of glowing reviews i heard about Tamiya (plus its availability), i decided to mix my own camouflage colours. Some of the blues were mixed to some Tamiya mixing Formulae from an old IPMS-Stockholm article, and some were suggested mixed via Martin Sanford. I mixed small batches of each major colour using the different formulas, and mixed and matched from the ones i liked. The single most controversial aspect of these planes is the paint scheme. There are only a handful of useful photos of these planes taken aboard INTREPID and ENTERPRISE, and what they depict is subject to some debate. Some people belive (and at least one book published) profiles of this aircraft with black flanks painted on the fuselage side. I was always a little skeptical about this; having spoken with Bob he was positive there was no black on the plane. Looking at "Better" pictures of the Marine F4U-2s assigned to VMF (N)-532, i've concluded the the Corsair in question had a heavily blended Non Spec Sea Blue fuselage, carried very far down the sides of the fuselage, and that the plane may have had semi gloss sea blue (Which is darker than Non Spec Sea Blue) applied to the fuselage sides, resulting in a combination flat finish/ semi gloss finish to the Fuselage. Given the degree of blending, in the picture you see below, its understandable that people would mistake the fuselage for black... The markings on these planes were very low-key. In fact, i refer to this model as, "A Very accurate depiction of a very dull paint scheme". There was originally a VF (N)-101 sticker applied under the windscreen, but when the remnants of -101 transferred from INTREPID to ENTERPRISE, orders came to remove the decals. Richard "Chick" Harmer's F4U-2 actually had nose art painted on the cowling called, "The Impatient Virgin" but no photos or artwork have been seen. The national insignias were painted on using MONTEX paint masks. For the most part they worked well, but the MONTEX instructions have the wing insignias slightly mislocated, and i didn't discover the error until it was too late. Due to the star and bar nature of the markings, i had to sort of apply the mask in steps; having applied flat white for the stars, i next located the stars in the proper positions, and then proceeded to build the remaining masks, element by element, around the stars. I did have problems with the blues of the insignia lifting off in very small flecks, that required a repair job way out of proportion to the problem caused. I used Mr Color Levelling thinner to thin the paint, and it worked well, but these itty bitty chips of paint were maddening and had no rhyme or reason. F4U-2s had a simplified antenna installation, consisting of a wire running from the leading edge of the right stabilizer, up to the rubber tensioner assembly and then down to the ceramic lead-in point behind the right hand side of the canopy. There was a simple whip antenna, and a Transponder/ IFF antenna on the belly. The 2 radio Altimeter antennas were mounted along the keel. These antennas are photo etched brass, made by OWL and while delicate, worked great. I cannot recommend them highly enough. In this shot, you can see the IFF antenna a little better, along with the flame dampening exhausts. I built a display base from 5/8" Plywood onto which i laminated a basswood carrier deck made by Nautilus models. It was painted with Tamiya acrylics and weathered with a wash of paynes gray and raw umber. First time i did this and for the most part i like it. The deck is a bit too blue- it should be a much lighter light gray colour- but not bad for a first effort. Not seen here, but i also had a brass nameplate made as well as a protective 1/8" thick acrylic display case. Close up of the antenna installation... The white light in the tail cone is a piece of .015 diameter Plastruct rod. As i write this, we are making plans to fly this model to Bob so I can deliver it in person. I am looking forward to it. If you ever get the opportunity to do something like this for a veteran, take my advice and do it. You wont regret it. david img163.tif
  10. 6 likes
    All done thank you all so much for your kind comments walts and all. https://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/5117-hasegawa-fw-190-a8-walther-dahl-jg-300/#comment-65885
  11. 6 likes
    Hi, Started the very well known Nurflügel German subject. AM : HGW's seat-belts. Sources : A.L. Bentley drawings (scale 1:16) the best source ever for those who know how to read a plan. THE projekt : Pushing the detailing as far as possible. Livery : No clue. Will see later. Wood and metal..........maybe. Enough said. The box... Following the notice, first step is the Jumo 004 twin build. I wanted the pipe systems to be subassemblies for a better painting. I glued/blank-mounted them on the compression section. the 2 sets are glued on a spec. jig, preventing the thin pipes from braking and further on for the painting process. More very soon. Thanks for checking in. Best, laurent.
  12. 6 likes
    1:32 Sopwith 2F.1 “Ship’s Camel” Wingnut Wings Kit No. 32076 Available from Wingnut Wings for $79,- Introduction ‘Wingnut Wings will never do a Camel’. A bold statement that was often heard amongst WW1 aviation enthusiast modellers… Reason being that Wingnut Wings plotted their own course and the Camel had been done before by the likes of Hobbycraft and Academy. Italeri very recently even did a re-pop of the rather mediocre Academy kit. Why no other brand (Roden for instance) ever tackeled the Camel before I really don’t know and is beyond me. At one time I bought an Academy kit and the Part Photo etch set (very nice by the way) with the intention of building it. Man… am I glad I didn’t, because now we have no less than 5(!!) amazing Wingnut Wings Camels to choose from! Since James Hatch already wrote thorough in box reviews of the F.1 Camel ‘BR.1’ and the F1 Camel ‘Clerget’ I will steer my review in a different course. Where he zooms in on engineering excellence, I will try to approach this kit a little bit differently. What I will do is try to answer a question for you. Being: Why should I choose the Sopwith 2F.1 “Ship’s Camel”? To answer this question, I will start by addressing the changes between a ‘normal’ Camel and the ‘Camel’ that was hoisted on board Naval ships and slung of them. Changes were: It had a rear fuselage that was detachable (cool for diorama’s and transport scenes).The separation point was right behind the pilot’s position. This feature was introduced to make transportation and stowing on board easier / possible. See the photo below for an example of both. The armament setup was different too. Instead of the usual 2 nose mounted Vickers guns, the Ship’s Camel only had one nose mounted Vickers, and in addition had one Lewis gun mounted to the top wing center section. This setup was called the Admirality Top Place Mounting. The Ship’s Camel also had a narrower wingspan (13 inches, or 33cm). The rear fuselage contained floatation bags. The cabane struts were made of steel tube. The control column featured external control levers for the elevator cables. All Ship Camels were Bentley BR.1 powered. So now that we’ve covered most of the differences, let’s see what reason’s I can come up with to promote the Ship’s Camel to you. Survivors There are 2 original 2F.1 Ship’s Camel on display today! You’ll find the RAF N8156 in the Canadian Aviation Museum. The other one is the N6812 on display in the Imperial War Museum in London. This particular plane has some history. It was flown by Flight Sub-Lieutenant Stuart Culley who shot down Zeppelin LZ100 with it in august 1918. So why is the above cool? Because this means there is plenty of walkaround reference available. Culley's N6812 suspended in the Imperial War Museum London. Diorama opportunities This rugged little fighter was flung of ships in several different ways. Either from a platform mounted on top the huge guns of a destroyer, or from a small naval vessel consisting of only a small hull and a platform to match in size. Fellow forum member Michael Scarborough did an amazing diorama of a Sopwith Pup. Michael Scarborough's amazing Sopwith Pup diorama. Here's another fine diorama example with a Sopwith Pup. This time by modeller Oefag_153 from Sweden. The figure is from Wings. Enough Pup's... Here's a Camel taking off! One more cool inspiration pic... Another way to go is do a ‘transport scene’. Since the Ship Camel was transported with the rear fuselage separated, you can hang half a Camel dangling from a crane (see photo) or place both parts on a WW1 lorry. Wingnut Wings provides us with a great reference photo in the instructions. The forward part of the Camel hanging from a crane. I can see myself building this... Or like this... Not the rear part of the fuselage on the back of the lorry. As described above under ‘survivors’, the N6812 is heavily documented and photographed. I suddenly see an in-flight diorama with a part of Zeppelin hull in an angle below it! And, not surprisingly, the N6812 is included in the schemes provided in this kit… And here's some inspiration for the cockpit figure (not sure what brand. I believe Wings Cockpit figures) done by David Parker: The kit So let’s take a look at the sprues! As said: the Ship Camel has a slightly different fuselage, a shorter wingspan and different weapons layout. The kit consists of: • 170 plastic parts • 16 plastic parts that make up the Bentley BR.1 engine • Optional wheels, propellors (2 types) and bomb rack • 7 photo etched parts • Cartograf decals Sprue A: Wheels, Cowlings, gear, cockpit parts, bombs and struts... Four cowlings! But we only need the bottom/left one for this kit... Two types of wheels are provided. The difference is the pronounced spokes showing through the linen. See below. Yes you can replace this whicker seat for a resin one. But why? Gorgeous. The cushion of the whicker seat. Lovely wrinkles... These Vickers guns keep getting better and better. Shame we only need one for this plane 4x 20lb Cooper bombs... Great for the N6823 during the Tondern Raid. This are the gear struts to use. They were metal and stronger than the ones' normal Camels had. Cockpit sidewall. Sprue B Ship's Camel fuselage, lower wings, Lewis gun, upper deck and instrument panel. Note the hole for one Vickers gun, instead of two. I just love that inspection window for the controls. Also note the small attachment points, for hoisting this baby onboard! Lovely surface detail... Look at those twist-fasteners... Inside shown below, with the sink marks well out of the way: A crisp instrument panel. A little bit of sinkage on two dials, but that's an easy fix. Apply decal and use a drop of Micro Crystal. Here she is! The Lewis gun. A prominent feature on the Ship's Camel. This setup was called the Admirality Top Place Mounting Sprue C That's clear The only parts we need are 5 inspection windows and the windshield. Crisp and transparent as always... Part 9 (top right) is the windshield we'll use. Sprue D Wings, props, control surfaces, skid and stick! This prop is used on A, B, C and E schemes. Scheme D however can also be finished with this prop. Lovely ribbing detail on the rudder. Subtle, not overdone. The same goes for the ribbing on the main wings... Stitching and ribbing is done just right. Sprue E The Bentley BR.1 engine. I can imagine someone using a Taurus engine for a DH.2 or Fokker E3, where the engine is clearly visible. With the Camel most is enclosed. For this purpose this little gem is more than detailed on it's own. See what I mean? The photo-etch The decals Done by usual suspects: Cartograf. Instruction booklet With some of the most obvious differences for the Ship's Camel. Schemes A –Sopwith 2F.1 Camel N6602, HMS Furious, April 1918 This plane also flew from the HMS Narnia, HMS Lion, HMS Glorious and HMS Caroline. B –Sopwith 2F.1 Camel N6764, HMS Lion, April to June 1918 This plane had it’s fuselage and wings re-covered with linen, giving it the rare light appearance. C –Sopwith 2F.1 Camel N6812, flown by Stuart Douglas Culley, 1 victory over Felixstowe, 11 August 1918 This is the plane on display in the Imperial War Museum in London that show down Zeppelin L.53. D –Sopwith 2F.1 Camel N6822, HMAS Sydney, July to October 1918 Also served on the HMAS Melbourne and HMAS Australia. E –Sopwith 2F.1 Camel N6823, flown by Samuel Dawson, HMS Furious, 17 to 19 July 1918 Now this scheme has my name written all over it. It actually was a camouflage scheme, applied to take part in the first recorded aircraft carrier strike on a Zeppelin base. This mission was called the Tondern Raid. Curious about this mission? Check this link! Verdict Yup, Wingnut Wings has another winner on their hands and this time it’s not just a matter of quality, but moreover… subject! The Camel is the Allied epitome of WW1 aviation and will speak to a wider audience than just WW1 aviation enthusiasts. Come to think of it: this will even speak to Naval enthusiasts. I think it’s amazing WnW held out for as long as they did with this subject, but man, when they deliver,.. they deliver! Now all I want is to see a whole bunch of these built! Preferably by the people asking, begging, screaming, moaning about a proper 32nd scale Camel. VERY highly recommended. My sincere thanks to Wingnut Wings for this review sample. Jeroen Peters
  13. 6 likes
    Hi Guy's, lot's of people asked me regarding my wood grain technique how i achieve that result. So at first i had a plan to shoot a video of the WIP, but as i am no video guy, and my English isn't really what it should to be, i decided to shoot some extra photo's with the explanation of the several step's that need's to be taken. I added some explanation into the photo's themselves so it is easy to copy them with the explanation. I hope they are of some use to you guy's. Ok, here we go Part two, This whole piece takes about ten minutes to go from a plastic part to a wooden part with this technique. The final result look's like this : Due to the use of the oil paint, the drying time will be around a week. There are additives to get a quicker drying time, but i didn't use them yet with this technique. Greetz Danny
  14. 6 likes
    Hi all a quick update. Had a problem with the cockpit dashboard screen, cut away area as instructed and replacement part was just not big enough ie. Width. So I made one to replace it. Screen demister pipe work added, flap indicators added, inboard cartridge and clip ejector detail added and have started paint and markings. Here goes....
  15. 5 likes
    Hi all, My WNW Pfalz D.IIIa of Jasta 18, 1918 as flown by Hans Muller (12 victories). Third party bits were seat belts from HGW, guns, prop by Doug Craner, figures turnbuckles from Gaspatch.
  16. 5 likes
    1/32 Fokker D.VII “Early” Wingnut Wings Catalogue # 32067 Available from Wingnut Wings for $99 plus shipping The Fokker D.VII was a German World War I fighter aircraft designed by Reinhold Platz of the Fokker-Flugzeugwerke. Germany produced around 3,300 D.VII aircraft in the second half of 1918. In service with the Luftstreitkräfte, the D.VII quickly proved itself to be a formidable aircraft. The Armistice ending the war specifically required Germany to surrender all D.VIIs to the Allies. Surviving aircraft saw continued widespread service with many other countries in the years after World War I. The D.VII entered squadron service with Jasta 10 in early May 1918. When the Fokker D.VII appeared on the Western Front in April 1918, Allied pilots at first underestimated the new fighter because of its squarish, ungainly appearance, but quickly revised their view. The D.VII was also noted for its high manoeuvrability and ability to climb at high angles of attack, its remarkably docile stall, and its reluctance to spin. It could literally "hang on its prop" without stalling for brief periods of time, spraying enemy aircraft from below with machine gun fire. The D.VII also had problems. Several aircraft suffered rib failures and fabric shedding on the upper wing. Heat from the engine sometimes ignited phosphorus ammunition until cooling vents were installed in the engine cowling, and fuel tanks sometimes broke at the seams. Aircraft built by the Fokker factory at Schwerin were noted for their lower standard of workmanship and materials. Nevertheless, the D.VII proved to be a remarkably successful design, leading to the familiar aphorism that it could turn a mediocre pilot into a good one, and a good pilot into an ace. Manfred von Richthofen died days before the D.VII began to reach the Jagdstaffeln and never flew it in combat. Other pilots, including Erich Löwenhardt and Hermann Göring, quickly racked up victories and generally lauded the design. Aircraft availability was limited at first, but by July there were 407 in service. Larger numbers became available by August, when D.VIIs achieved 565 victories. The D.VII eventually equipped 46 Jagdstaffeln. When the war ended in November, 775 D.VII aircraft were in service. Armament was 2 × 7.92 mm (.312 in) LMG 08/15 "Spandau" machine guns, and the type was powered by either a Daimler-Mercedes D.IIIa/aü, or a BMW IIIa. Maximum speed was between 117mph and 124mph, dependent on powerplant. (Courtesy of Wikipedia) The kit For those that missed out on the four previous release versions of this kit, I suspect the release of Wingnut Wings’ Fokker D.VII (Fok) “Early” kit, will come as welcome news. Dare I say that I also suspect that for those that love this aircraft and bought the previous releases, this will also find a place in the stash. Well, the next time I expected to see the D.VII was in the fabled ‘Special Edition’ kits that have been mooted for some time, but I’m certainly not complaining about seeing another boxing of this beautiful kit. Wingnut Wings’ Fokker D.VII is already a proven kit in terms of engineering and fit, but seeing as the original kits were released 4 to 5 years ago, I’ll take a fresh look at the whole thing again, for the benefit of those who don’t know what this kit offers, and of course to highlight the differences between this and the original (Fok) release. I personally think that the D.VII was one of the prettiest and most aesthetically pleasing aircraft of The Great War, and Steve Anderson’s silver-lined box art captures its lines beautifully. The sides of the box show the FIVE schemes offered in this release with Ronny Bar’s exceptional profile artistry. Inside the box, there are EIGHT medium grey sprues and a single clear sprue, all individually bagged to prevent damage to the fragile parts contained therein. You like decals? Good, as there are FOUR large sheets with this release. A single photo-etch fret is included too. Lastly, a glossy, full colour instruction manual completes the ensemble. The Wingnut Wings release spiel is as thus: Very simple rigging 4 high quality Cartograf decal sheets including fitted ‘Fokker streaky camouflage’, 4 & 5 colour lozenge and markings for 5 early production aircraft 210 high quality injection moulded plastic parts including 19 parts exclusive to Fokker built aircraft (plastic parts are the same as 32011 Fokker D.VII (Fok)) 8 photo-etched metal detail parts Optional cowlings, propellers, low & mid height gun mounts, cockpit coamings, windscreens, low & high exhausts 180hp & 200hp Daimler-Mercedes engines Fine in scale rib tape detail Full rigging diagrams Sprue A As is typical with many WNW releases, this sprue tends to hold many of the smaller components from around the airframe. With the exception of the tubular cockpit sidewalls, you will find almost every other cockpit part moulded here, as well as the fuel tank and gauge, engine firewall, empty ammo bin, gun mounting cross member frames and ammunition feed bin. The latter parts to be used with this release are the MID and LOW brackets and ammo feed bin. Please ensure you decide which aircraft you are building before you set out, as these small differences will mean the difference between accuracy and the unmentionable. Also, don’t confuse these similar parts, as there are ones also supplied for the HIGH mount, which aren’t applicable to this release. The cockpit itself is superbly appointed, with nicely detailed floor, pilot seat (with PE belts) and optional cushion, rear bulkhead with filigree canvas lacing detail, spark advance lever, fuel tank pressurising pump, control column and grip with throttle control, tachometer, and a compass/gimbal. Whilst two instrument boards are included, only one of the parts is suitable for the early D.VII. This is to be fitted with a Bosch magneto, and decals are supplied for the instruments themselves and the various signage on the panel. An optional altimeter is included with the only proviso that you don’t fit it on the right hand side when building option A, with the streaky Fokker finish. Other parts on this sprue include the inner and outer radiator panels (two other sets of parts included, but not for use here), lower engine cowl (common to all versions on this kit), empty belt chutes, optional Oigee gun sight, undercarriage struts and spreader bar (with moulded bungee detail), rudder, tailskid etc. Sprue B Here you will find the fuselage halves, moulded with beautifully subtle external details such as the control cable grommets. Externally, there isn’t much else to see, which is the nature of the aircraft. Due to the various permutations of engine cowl etc. the forward fuselage ends just before the first cowl plate (or in this case, the fabric panels that were a feature of the early machines). This sprue contains many fragile parts, such as the sidewalls cabane struts and engine bay frames. The very nature of these parts means that WNW has moulded small tags onto them which are used for mould pin ejection. This is a neat idea which means that the part itself isn’t impinged upon with ejector pin marks. Of course, you’ll need to snip all of these away and clean up the gate point, but the trade-off is a beautifully fine moulding. With the sidewalls, you will need to snip away the innermost forward stanchion. Some frames on other manufacturer-built airframes were shorter, and the kit parts cater to all versions. The cockpit frames are very fine and very detailed. As with many parts in this kit, I advise that you use a fine razor saw to remove them so that your cutters don’t cause distortion when you clip through the plastic. Other parts here include the lower cowling sump panel, radiator piping and two exhaust options. The only part not pertinent to this release is the oil tank. Sprue C The clear sprue. Not a lot here to talk about except to tell you that it offers two windscreen options with nicely defined frame lines, and the parts are perfectly clear. Sprue D (x2) Of course, you’ll find here the parts for which there are multiples of the same, such as the wheels, separate wheel hubs, axle captive nuts, outer inter-plane struts, ailerons, machine guns, control horns etc. Two Spandau options are given here. These are for the standard plastic guns, and one for a jacketless MG. Onto this will fit a rolled PE jacket for more authenticity. A plastic former is also included for you to roll your flat brass part around. The wheels are quite nice too. These are moulded with separate outer hubs, and within the main wheel hub, a little spoke detail is moulded, along with the nipple to inflate the tyre. Alas, this detail won’t be seen for this version of the D.VII, as the hubs have a fabric patch and not the actual opening. Aileron detail is negligible, as there was barely any rib detail to be seen on the real aircraft. Note that the ailerons aren’t handed either, meaning they are interchangeable. No worries about gluing the port to starboard etc. Sprue E ‘E’ is for engine. In this case, the early D.VII flew with either a Daimler-Mercedes 180 D.IIIa or 200hp D.IIIaü. There are a good number of parts not for use here, such as the Heine and Wolf propellers, plus a sump, rocker covers etc. Still, there are enough parts here to satisfy the ardent detail fanatic. The engine itself comprises around 25 parts, with options of course for the water-cooled intake manifold and plumbing, plus the flywheel. If you aren’t fitting the latter, you can add a generator. I would say check your references, but I don’t think that old cliché is useful when you’re dealing with an aircraft from around one century ago. An air pump is an option if you’re not fitting the water-cooled parts. Sprue F Only two parts here; the full span upper and lower wing panels for the upper wing. These are moulded sans ailerons, so you may pose these dynamically, should you wish. Surface detail really is excellent, with a highly realistic doped fabric appearance and rib caps/tape detail. Leading edges have finely moulded wing stacking pads, and strut locating points are clean. It would be worthwhile just drilling out the holes further for the control cable points, but remember, that the D.VII itself doesn’t have much in terms of rigging, which will doubtless please a lot of modellers. Wing trailing edges are very thin too, with light being visible if you hold them up to a lamp. This area also has a subtle scalloped finish, as would be the result of the doped fabric pulling on the wire trailing edge of the real aircraft. As the D.VII’s upper wing is relatively thick, WNW has included some locating points within the wing, that after gluing, should provide some nice reinforcement and prevent the wing from being squeezed and cracking any glued joint. Sprue H This is another sprue that’s common to all previous D.VII kit releases, and it contains a full-span lower wing panel with upper port and starboard panels, two upper cockpit deck options, the single-piece stabiliser and elevator. Wing and tail-plane detail is again superb and restrained, with positive strut positions where appropriate, and nice elevator hinge detail on the stabiliser. The elevator itself is, like the aileron in that detail is limited. Again, this is correct. You will also find two upper fuselage/cockpit decks here. Sprue I This is the last grey sprue and it contains the various permutations of cowl parts including both side and upper panels. This contains two different sets of side panels, a single nose cowl and three options for upper engine cowls. Other parts are included for these, but they aren’t applicable to this specific release. One set of side cowls will need to be modified if you are using the louvered option. This involves cutting out a hole for the low exhaust stack, and the removal of four forward louvres. Parts for the undercarriage wing are found here too, and this version doesn’t require you to cut and shorted them. With regards to the plastic, there really isn’t anything to fault anywhere on this kit. Seam lines are negligible, flash is pretty much non-existent, and ejector pin marks won’t hinder you. No sinkage etc. can be found anywhere. This model will be a joy to build from that perspective. Photo Etch The parts on this look identical to the previous D.VII releases, but the layout is different. This may be to incorporate the nameplate that is now a part of WNW releases. Either way, these parts are interchangeable with those of the previous releases. Here you will find the Spandau MG jackets, end caps and reticules, seatbelts and the MG flashguards. Quality is excellent, with parts being held in situ by small tags that will be easy to cut through. Decals As previously stated, there are FOUR large decal sheets here, printed by Cartograf. It’s great to see WNW add a Fokker streaking decal set when only one of the schemes actually calls for it all (with the exception a small fuselage piece on one other scheme. This is quite strange when you consider that they don’t include the black and white stripy decal for Bruno Loerzer’s machine. It’s very easy to mask off though, but they have included full side pattern decals in other releases. One sheet contains a full suite of streaking decal (with some sections not for use), and wheel hub outer edge decals. One sheet contains a set of 4-colour upper and lower wing lozenge, and another has 5-colour lozenge, but this time, the lower lozenge represents the coat of light blue paint that was applied. In a twist, the first scheme that employs the streaking decal, also includes the lighter lower wing lozenge applied to the UPPER surfaces! I can guarantee that if you have this finished model on your club stand, someone will tell you that you did it wrong! Probably my favourite scheme of them all, and they are all worth building. The remaining decal sheet contains all of the national markings, motifs, as well as some tail-plane lozenge and sections of lighter lozenge that fit within the cockpit area (for the non-streaky fuselages). More lozenge is included to wrap around the upper cockpit frame and some pieces for the rear bulkhead. Cockpit instrument and signage decals are included, as are a full set of stencils. All decals are glossily printed, thin and contain minimum carrier film. Colours are solid and authentic, and printing is in perfect register. The FIVE (actually six!) schemes are: Fokker D.VII, 262/18, Emil Thuy, Jasta 28w, mid-1918 (35 victories) Fokker D.VII, Rudolf Berthold, Jasta 15/JG2, mid-1918 (44 victories) Fokker D.VII, Max Kliefoth, Jasta 19, October 1918 (3 victories) (SCHEME C1) Fokker D.VII, Hugo Schäfer, Jasta 19, October 1918 (SCHEME C2) Fokker D.VII, Reinhold von Benz, Jasta 78b, August 1918 (1 victory) Fokker D.VII, Bruno Loerzer, Jasta 26/JGIII, November 1918 (44 victories) Schemes C1 and C2 are very similar with the exception of the nose, undercarriage and cabane strut colours, hence the inclusion of both options. Instruction Manual No one does these quite like WNW. This glossy A4 publication contains 26 pages, printed in full colour and begins with a parts map and colour references which are used throughout the construction process. The illustrations are in drawing style, and generally coloured in greyscale, but blue is used to highlight new parts addition, and yellow where PE parts are to be added. Full colour illustration is also supplied for key areas, such as the cockpit and engine, giving the modeller an immediate idea about how things should look once painted, despite the references being given throughout construction. Contemporary and period photographs are included, and the last pages are taken over by the excellent colour profile work of Ronny Bar, with some historical and scheme notation. Decal placement is easy to follow, as is the colour guide. Conclusion I'm more than sure that this new release will be more than welcome by WNW enthusiasts, and not least those that missed out on the previous four incarnations of this kit. The Fokker D.VII is packed full of just about every detail you could wish for, with maybe only a little wiring needed here and there. This really is a very comprehensive kit, and one that builds perfectly. Again, it's great to see a number of machine-specific options included here, and a total of four large decal sheets to create another series of beautiful examples of this important aircraft type. Price-wise, I don't think this can be beat. Building this model really is an adventure, and a thoroughly enjoyable one at that. Now, I wonder if we'll see any WNW separate decal sets for this release! Very highly recommended My sincere thanks to Wingnut Wings for the sample reviewed here. To purchase directly, click THIS link, or check your local distributor.
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    GusMac, thanks for your kind words and reassurance that it is indeed JUST A HOBBY!!!!! I will repeat that to myself as a mantra while working. (Perhaps I need a wee dram to fortify ma'sel...LOL!) OK....gettin' dirty now....I applied some oil washes, then did some sponging with acrylics followed by dotting with tube oils and general messing around with thinner. I may go back and add some rain streaks and evidence that it's been out in the elements all winter. This is the faded lozenge fabric from Aviattic but a bit more fading may be in order. I need to wait until the whole scene is together and see the color balances before I go much further. I faded the paint on the rudder by laying on a base coat of CDL-ish color, then a coat of clear base, then the green over that. I then went back with a MILDLY damp brush of thinner and just stroked GENTLY downward. Too much stroking can make things happen too fast. (Kinda like a date in high school.) Cheers from NYC, Michael This is the look I'm after.....minus the engine......
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    Hi guy's, time to show you some more WIP photo's. The oil paint is completely dried, so time to paint some details and put the cockpit together. First thing to do, glue the cockpit floor to the ammunition locker. Here you see the difference of color in the wood grain pattern. I decided to keep the fuel lines, which where running along the bulkhead under the IP. I painted the fuel lines and other details with Vallejo and Tamiya acrylics. Radiator, pilot's seat and pilot's locker where also glued. Rudder pedals, painted and glued to the cockpit floor. Instrument panel, details painted and added some decals. Finally, gunner section glued to the pilot's cockpit section. Greetz Danny
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    1/32 Sopwith F.1 Camel “BR.1” Wingnut Wings Kit No. 32070 Available from Wingnut Wings for $79.00 plus shipping The Sopwith Camel was a British First World War single-seat biplane fighter aircraft introduced on the Western Front in 1917. It had been developed by the Sopwith Aviation Company as a successor to the earlier Sopwith Pup and would become one of the most iconic fighter aircraft of the First World War. The Camel had a mostly conventional design for its era, featuring a wooden box-like fuselage structure, an aluminium engine cowling, plywood panels around the cockpit, and fabric-covered fuselage, wings and tail. While possessing some clear similarities with the Pup, it was furnished with a noticeably bulkier fuselage. For the first time on an operational British-designed fighter, two 0.303 in (7.7 mm) Vickers machine guns were mounted directly in front of the cockpit, synchronised to fire forwards through the propeller disc. In addition to the machine guns, a total of four Cooper bombs could be carried for ground attack purposes. Production Camels were powered by various rotary engines, most commonly either the Clerget 9B or the Bentley BR1. In order to evade a potential manufacturing bottleneck being imposed upon the overall aircraft in the event of an engine shortage, several other engines were also adopted to power the type as well. A metal fairing over the gun breeches, intended to protect the guns from freezing at altitude, created a "hump" that led pilots to refer to the aircraft by the name Camel. However, the Camel name never had any official status in regard to the aircraft. The 130 horsepower (97 kW) Clerget 9B was an important engine for the British Royal Naval Air Service and Royal Flying Corps, being license-produced in Britain and powering several important British aircraft, including the Sopwith Camel. However, at £907 a copy it was expensive, and prone to overheating, so the Admiralty asked Lieutenant W. O. Bentley, an established pre-war engine designer, to produce a modified version to solve these problems. Bentley came up with his idea of an engine - fitted with aluminium cylinders with cast iron liners, and aluminium pistons. Dual ignition was introduced to improve reliability, and the stroke increased to 6.7 inches (17 cm) which allowed power to be increased to 150 horsepower (110 kW). The cost of the engine was also reduced, falling to £605 (almost £40,000 at 2016 conversion) per engine. The resulting engine, initially known as the A.R.1 for "Admiralty Rotary", but later called the BR.1 ("Bentley Rotary") was manufactured in quantity, although initially against Admiralty orders. It was standardised for the Camel in RNAS squadrons, but unfortunately there were never enough to entirely replace the inferior and more expensive Clerget engine in British service, and most RFC Camel squadrons continued to use Clerget engines; in fact licensed production of the Clerget continued. (Courtesy of Wikipedia) The kit We very recently took a look at the Clerget-engine Sopwith Camel kit, and this kit isn’t too dissimilar from that, with only a single sprue being different. This relates to the engine of course, with this kit having the Bentley BR.1 engine. We won’t be looking at each sprue as we already have done, with the exception of the BR.1, and the parts options which are to be used in this release. Wingnut’s official kit info describes the kit as thus: 164 high quality injection moulded plastic parts. 16 part highly detailed 150hp Bentley BR.1 engine. Optional fuselage halves with alternative lacing details, windscreens, cut down cockpit decking, common or Bentley style engine cowlings, small & large cut out top wing centre sections, early and late undercarriage, propellers, 20lb Cooper bombs & carrier. 10 photo-etched metal detail parts. 24 page fully illustrated instruction manual. High quality Cartograf decals for 5 aircraft Sprue E (Bentley BR.1) Being a derivative of the Clerget, it’s not surprising that this engine is generally very similar, but it’s the attention to detail, of course, which drives our passion with these kits. Being WNW, you can pretty much guarantee that the levels of research were beyond our own mortal levels of understanding! The engine itself has 16 parts, with the rear of the cylinder block being separate to the front, but not along a centreline joint, which is a welcome touch. The joint itself is pretty much hidden from view when built, with it lurking around the rear face. Cooling fin detail is amazingly fine. The cylinder heads are separate and also have some beautiful detail, including the spark plugs, which are tiny! More nice detail on the induction pipe section too. As with many parts in WNW kits, I recommend you take a fine razor saw to this sprue when removing a number of the parts for assembly. So what else is different? Essentially, nothing. However, you do get the opportunity to use some parts here that weren’t for use in the Clerget kit. Whereas the aforementioned kit has one cowl choice, the Bentley offers TWO, out of a possible four that are on Sprue A. The unused parts on this sprue, more or less mirror those of the Clerget release. This also applies to the other sprues, including the clear parts. One other part of note that can be used in this release is the mid-upper wing section, with the larger upward viewing cut-out. Both large and small cut-out sections are for use in this release, but with the Polish scheme E being the one for the larger cut-out. Decals Five scheme options are available here, printed on a single, large Cartograf sheet. As with the previous kit, the printing is perfect with solid and authentic colour, minimal carrier film and perfect register. The finish is also glossy, which is what I personally prefer. Stencils are included, as are instrument decals. The five schemes on offer are: Sopwith F.1 Camel B6390 “Black Maria”, R Collishaw (60 victories), Seaplane Defence Squadron RNAS, December 1917. Sopwith F.1 Camel B7190 “Donner-Wetter!”, WGR Hinchliffe (6 victories), “C” Flight 10(N) Sqn RNAS, March 1918. Sopwith F.1 Camel B7270, AR Brown (10 victories – including Manfred von Richthofen, the Red Baron), 209 Sqn RAF, April 1918. Sopwith F.1 Camel B7275 “P”, HF Beamish (11 victories), RA Little (47 victories), E Pierce (9 victories) & R Sykes (6 victories), “C” Flight 3(N) Sqn RNAS & 203 Sqn RAF, March - April 1918. Sopwith F.1 Camel F5234, KM Murray, 7th Air Escadrille (Kościuszko Squadron), Poland, October 1920 Conclusion As with the Clerget release, there isn’t anything at all to fault or criticise here. If you like colourful schemes, then I think WNW has done very well to incorporate some of the more unusual elements of what are normally very samey-looking aircraft, especially with the blue/white striped nose of scheme B. I don’t doubt that will be high on the options for many purchasers of this kit. Another classy release that will offer the modeller the perfect levels of detail and buildability. Highly recommended My sincere thanks to Wingnut Wings for this review sample. To purchase directly, click THIS link. Watch out for our reviews of the remaining three Camel kits (USAS, Ships, Le Rhone) on LSM soon.
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    Been many moons since anything rolled off the assembly line of the "Luftwaffe Modeling Center of Medoicrity" but may I humbly present my latest creation. After a long bout of lack of mojo I wanted something that went together with no fuss and muss and the Hasegawa kit fits the bill to a tee, superbly engineered and a joy to put together. This was originally supposed to be a Rumanian aircraft but decal difficulties and even more difficulties steered this one into the winter white-wash zone. My first winter camo scheme and pretty happy with the results. Add-ons:Montex Masks for markingsBR32070 Bf 109G Wheels BR32122 Bf 109G-6 Prop and Spinner BR32155 Bf 109G-6 Intake and Exhaust Set (intake only) Eduard Brassin Exhausts Finemolds Seatbelts Yahu PE IP Finemolds brass Barrels for pod mounted MG 151 and pitot tube Quickboost MG 131 barrels As always thanks for looking!
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    ok here a update on whats done so far i have made a small start ononeof the brassin engines also things done on the pit and nose gunbay Mark
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    Hello, my finished G6 "Rhino" in 1/35 scale by Takom. It is a huge kit and a huge car... I hope that you like it! Cheers, Micha
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    Well, after having finished two models in a short time my hands were itching to resume work on the Manchester. The dividing line between the bomb doors was scribed. Then a start was made scribing the top wing surfaces. A good feeling working on this mammoth project again. Will tickle Jeroen to discuss the design if the engine nacelles.
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    ... after a layer of clear coat the decals followed. As I want to built a Canadian version with wonderful nose art I chose some decals from the aftermarket. These fit perfect. Then feeled 1000s of stencils followed. Some were used from the Tamiya kit, some others from the aftermarket set as well. Now some drying time, then clear coat matt, then oil colors ... Cheers Micha
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    Hi all, I thought you might like to see my latest (7th) Wingnut Wings model. This is a Roland C.IIa (Li) Walfisch Black III operating with Schusta 13 during early 1917, as flown by Vfw Hesse. Manufacturer: Wingnut Wings. Scale: 1/32 Type: Roland C.IIa (Later version) Paints/Weathering: Tamiya (by brush and Airbrushed), Flory clay washes and AK weathering washes. Aftermarket: HGW seat belts, Gaspatch weapons, figures from Kellerkind and Model Design Centre, ground accessories from Historex and ground cover from Scenic grass mats. Rigging: Gaspatch turnbuckles with micro nickel/silver tube from Albion Alloys. Rigging wires from monofilament (0.12 mm diameter). Engine ignition leads: Created using fine lead wire. Display case and plaque: Made by on-line specialists.
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    Thanks, C.P.....I've been wanting to try that for a while. I'm starting to get the figures base coated and putting them in place under the new lights to see what I need to do as far as highlighting and shadowing them. It's a weird mix of those strictly under the influence of the interior lights and those that are partly lit by the interior lights and the ambient room light. It will drive me nuts if I let it but I keep repeating to myself, "it's a hobby, it's a hobby...." Cheers from NYC, Michael PS: Posting pictures is the best self-critique, eh! Just seeing confirms that I need to further weather the insignia these souvenir hunters have cut from the fabric, so they will match the rest of the fuselage. First thing I see in this picture is the rope that is holding up the AEG wing in the background. I forgot to make the hanging rope ends hang like they were real rope, not string. I did it everywhere else in the scene....forgetting to do it here would be tragic. (No it wouldn't ...it's just a hobby, it's just a hobby.)
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    1/32 Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IXc Revell Kit No. 03927 The Supermarine Spitfire is a British single-seat fighter aircraft that was used by the Royal Air Force and many other Allied countries before, during and after World War II. The Spitfire was built in many variants, using several wing configurations, and was produced in greater numbers than any other British aircraft. It was also the only British fighter to be in continuous production throughout the war. The Spitfire was designed as a short-range, high-performance interceptor aircraft by R. J. Mitchell, chief designer at Supermarine Aviation Works. Mitchell pushed the Spitfire's distinctive elliptical wing to have the thinnest possible cross-section, helping give the aircraft a higher top speed than several contemporary fighters. Mitchell continued to refine the design until his death in 1937, whereupon his colleague Joseph Smith took over as chief designer, overseeing the development of the Spitfire through its multitude of variants. The Spitfire saw action in the European, Mediterranean, Pacific, and South-East Asian theatres. Much loved by its pilots, the Spitfire served in several roles, including interceptor, photo-reconnaissance, fighter-bomber and trainer, and it continued to serve in these roles until the 1950s. Although the original airframe was designed to be powered by a Rolls-Royce Merlin engine producing 1,030hp (768 kW), it was strong enough and adaptable enough to use increasingly powerful Merlins and, in later marks, Rolls-Royce Griffon engines producing up to 2,340hp (1,745 kW). As a consequence of this, the Spitfire's performance and capabilities improved over the course of its service life. The kit It’s been around three years now since Revell released their new-tool Spitfire Mk.IIa, and I’m quite surprised that they’ve left it this long to bring subsequent versions to market. That surprise is even more manifest when you take a close look at the new sprues in this release. All of them carry the year ‘2014’ on them, so this model has been in gestation for quite a while now. In fact, the Mk.IIa itself, released in 2014, also carries that date. Between these kits, there are only three common sprues, with the main components etc. obviously being new to this specific Mk.IXc kit. Styling of the new parts is the same as the earlier kit, such as riveting etc, so I imagine both kits were in development in tandem. Revell’s website gives the kits specifics as: Detailed Mk.IXc wings with guns Detailed cockpit and instrument panel Detailed radiator Rotating 4 blade propeller Alternative bomb load Detailed undercarriage Revell’s new-look box is used here, but to the same flimsy design we’ve all come to know and love, and the sprues within are packaged as multiples within clear bags. This isn’t something I like, as it risks the damage of parts. Looking around the fuselage exterior, Revell’s maniacal riveter has pretty much done the same job he/she did on the earlier Mk.IIa release, albeit this time, the Mk.IX did mainly have flushed rivets, dependent on where the machine was built. If domed rivets were used, this was generally on the aft fuselage, towards the rear of the cockpit area. You will of course need to check your references, as the old caveat goes. Either way, I do feel that what is given does need to be dialled back a little, perhaps with an airbrushing of Mr Surfacer and then the exterior being sanded back to plastic. Your mileage may vary and you may not be too bothered. I don’t have the Mk.IIa kit to hand any longer, but I think this aspect of the model may not be quite as extreme as the earlier release. If you want to add raised rivets, then this is very easy with a product such as Archer raised rivet decals. This is the same course of action I took for my Mk.IIa when I wrote the ADH/Doolittle title on building that kit. Of course, the fuselage halves are newly tooled as you would expect for a Mk.IX, and the rest of the exterior looks very nice indeed, with delicate panel lines, cowling fasteners and general outline. I have to say that it does look like a Mk.IX. Where I think things fall down a little is around the wingroot, where it doesn’t really have that deep, scalloped shape that I associate with this area, and against the light, it looks a little bumpy when looking from the rear, towards the front. I also note a few sink marks here and there, but they should be easy to fettle. Internal fuselage wall detail is simple, with most detail being separate parts. A couple of ejector pin marks reside in the rear cockpit area, and you will need to eradicate these. Again, the wings are newly-tooled as befits the changes to this later variant. Externally, detail really is very nice, with more fine panel lining, access ports etc. and the various bumps associated with the weapons bays and undercarriage seem to be on the mark. Rivet detail does seem to be finer than that of the fuselage, and I am more than happy with this. I can’t see any moulding defects here, although there is a little light flash that will need to be removed. I would have liked to have seen the small undercarriage position indicator panels as separates as these should be open when in the down position. Also, the moulded detail in the ceiling of the wheel wells is a little simplistic. The same can be said for the liners, as these are devoid of detail. Eduard released a nice fix for this in their earlier Mk.IIa sets, and I expect they’ll do the same here. Flap detail is moulded here (cue the many who say they weren’t dropped on the ground, and the £5 fine etc. etc.), but it is simplistic. The same is to be said of the flap parts themselves. Cockpit detail is very good, especially for a kit of this price point, and the instrument panel, whilst the same as for the Mk.IIa kit, does seem to generally hold very close to that of the Mk.IX. I’m sure there were differences somewhere, but I’m certainly not educated enough to notice what they are. Revell did miss out some interior detail on the original kit, and I’m sure there should be more internal sidewall detail than is supplied, such as various boxes and panels that sit in between formers, with those raised, elongated details etc. I can’t be any more descriptive than that. The missing details from the original kit were soon picked up by Eduard, who released some rather nice sets for that kit, and I have no reason to presume they won’t do the same for this, although it would’ve been nice to have had a properly appointed office to start with. Unlike the earlier kit, at least with this one you can guarantee that the metal ailerons are suited to the Mk.IX, and these are moulded onto one of the sprues that are common to both kits. Here is included a good amount of detail for the cockpit, as well as one of the underwing radiators, instrument panel and rear pilot main former, complete with lightening holes that don’t need to be drilled out. A little flash can be seen here and there on some small parts, and on the radiator, but this is easy to remove. Another common sprue contains the wingtips, stabilisers, elevators, cockpit sidewalls and a former and bulkhead. The stabs and elevators are designed to be applicable to all Spitfire releases, meaning that on this kit, you will need to cut away a little of the stabilisers to allow the correct elevator setup to be used. In this case, as they are supplied, with the outer edge running front to back, and not angled as per the Mk.IIa kit. Surface detail of flying/control surface parts is excellent, with subtle riveting on the upper sides of the stabs, but strangely enough, more pronounced on the underside. A lot of the new Mk.IX-specific parts are to be found on another new-tool sprue. Revell has included options for both early and late exhausts, a new spinner/back-plate ensemble, wide-chord rudder, second radiator to match the original part, two-piece lower engine cowl with integral intake, new undercarriage struts and gear doors, and parts for a centreline bomb and carrier. As with the earlier release, I do feel that the undercarriage struts are perhaps just a tad too simplistic, but certainly not a deal-breaker. Seams do exist on these parts, and they will need particular attention before assembly. A small clear sleeve contains the last six small sprues. Two of these pertain to the wheels/tyres. These are moulded with integral four-spoke hubs, and for my, the hub detail doesn’t look right when I compare them with the photos in my Monforton Spitfire book. The tyres also don’t carry any Dunlop writing, or size etc. They also aren’t weighted. I’m none too impressed with these, and I would seem some aftermarket parts. Two more sprues hold the parts for the underwing bombs and carriers, plus the new propeller blades for this release. Shape-wise, they do look ok, but the tips seem to be clipped. A couple of swipes with a sanding stick along the trailing edge should correct that though. The last grey sprues contain the radiator interior grilles and the rudder pedals. Now, when we complain of multiple sprues being packed into a single bag, it’s said for a reason. All three clear sprues suffer this, and in mine, some parts had come adrift, including the main hood. Some very light scuff marks will need to be removed from this before assembly. Out of the three clear sprues, two of these are new to this release. These include a revised windscreen and hood, clear wingtips for the clipped-wing version, and two gunsights, of which only one is slated for use in this release. The clear parts themselves are superbly clear and also quite thin. Unfortunately, the hood on my sample is a short-short and will need to be replaced. A single decal sheet, printed by Cartograf, is included here. Being Revell, their remit seems to be for the decals to have a matt finish. I admit to preferring glossy decals, but we can’t have it all ways. Printing is nice and solid, with authentic colour and minimal carrier film. Registration is also perfect. As well as the serials, codes and national markings, stencils are also included, as is a two-part instrument panel decal, but unless you have gallons of Solvaset or Mr Mark Setter, I would ignore this, or at the very least punch the instruments from the main decal, or use Airscale for the instrument panel. The TWO schemes included are: Mk.IXc, DN-T, MJ832, No.416 Sqn, Royal Canadian Air Force, Tangmere, England, May 1944 Mk.IXc, UF-Q, MJ250, No.601 Sqn, Royal Air Force, Fano, Italy, November 1944 Instructions An A4 colour manual shows assembly over 73 easy-to-understand stages, with clear annotation and references made to Revell paints. I much prefer this new format of instructions over the ones Revell used to supply. The last pages clearly show each scheme and the colours used, plus decal placement. Conclusion I could moan about this and that, and indeed I have listed the things I don’t particularly like, or those that could have been better. I’ve also tempered that were possible with notes to say how whatever issue could be overcome. As a reviewer, I feel that it the best approach. However, I must remember the price point of this release. It’s roughly a third that of Tamiya’s Mk.IX kit. Of course, costs increase if you start to add any subsequent detail sets. A minimum of new wheels, interior set and wheel bay set will add around another £35 to that cost. It’s a juggling act, but if you are happy to do some of the extra work yourself, or you simply want a nice looking Mk.IX out of box, then this kit will more that suffice whilst providing some nice detail and what appears to be a model with accurate lines. If you’d like to see how I tackled the Mk.IIa, with tips that are pertinent to this release, then check out the ‘How to Build’ book from Doolittle Media. Recommended My thanks to Revell and Doolittle Media for this review sample.
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    1:32 WWI RAF/RFC Towing Trailer AVIATTIC (catalogue n.º ATTKIT004) Price Tag – £ 55 (22 resin parts, PE sheet with 47 parts) Aviattic is a very well know name in WWI modelling world! Their produtcs are always top noch about originality and detail. Richard from Aviattic is a devoted modeler and a WWI passionate so all their projects will come at their very best and a truly dedicate product. The love for their products is well patent on all their work. Today we are going to take a look into their new RAF/RFC Towing trailer. This little resin kit that comes in medium hard plastic box with foam inside to protect all the resin parts. No chance to break or damaged the resin pieces. The packing is highly professional. Opening the plastic box, you get 22 resin parts and a quite big PE sheet with several parts in a total of 47 parts. The casting system is a topnotch in all resin manufacture. You got a good quality grey resin, with some flash that need to be remove. The only bigger problem is on the wheels rims. All the flash inside the rims will not be easy to clean but be assuring that our example is a pre-production item that was given to us at Telford so the final production batch does not have this little outcome. However the wheels are very well casted and with lots of small details on the rims and tyres. This set has no instructions in paper but there`s a photo instructions that you can check in here. A few examples of pics of that photo instructions so you can see that is quite comprehensive and easy to follow. This trailer does have lots of details not only giving be the resin texture but also the several PE parts that gives a lot of “living” to this one. The large trailer bed is in one single resin piece with several details like nuts and bolts and wood veins. A quite impressive detail and casting work. And as you can see very little cleaning whatsoever. Simply amazing. All other resin parts are in very good shape of casting with no bubbles or distortions with lovely details like the springs, tool box, lamps and several hooks and handles. Passing on the the PE sheet, this one comes in natural cooper with makes it more annealing friendly (at least for me). For the maneability of it, it look quite easy to work with, being the more difficult one the mudgards. All the downside structure and weight support is made from PE making a bit complex and working part but easy to do by the intermediate modeler. For inspiration, Aviattic give a small flyer with a pic with a Alb D.V on the top of trailer being towed. CONCLUSION: Well, this release is simply fabulous. The diorama ideas are more than many… You don’t believe it? Check it out.: Aviattic has been in the past few years a manufacture that every WWI modeler love because Aviattic produce some great produts. This trailer is just a perfect excuse to make a WnW with no rigging and no wings and it’s a perfect match to Aviattic truck (Marienfelde" Lorry). I can highly recommend the fuel cart to all but novice modeler. THANKS AVIATTIC FOR DOING THIS TRAILER. Very High Recommend Our truly and sincere thanks to Richard from Aviattic for the sample and for making these fantastic WWI accessories.
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    I did some more work on the Fee's cockpit section today. I enclosed the observers and pilot's cockpit into the two wooden frame halves. Also the frontal iron framework was added to the observers section. Fuel tank and control column also. Next step, adding the instrument panel. Radiator support bars glued. Engine mount added to the wooden frame work. Rudder pedal control cables and support rigging finished. And a quick dry-fit into the two fuselage half's. Greetz Danny
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    Parallel to the construction of the Me-262B, I also collected J2M3 The variant chose from the 352nd Kokutai, 3 / 52-20 as the most watchable. I do not really like the options published in the circulation, I always tried to find out with the izdoka izjumenkoj and little demand, but here everything is quite the opposite) The construction process can be seen here - http://royalscale.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?id=758
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    Hi. Had of bit of bits n'pieces. I am wondering : On the hydraulic cylinder > 1 or 2 electro valves ? I mean one for the incoming pressure and one for the out-coming pressure ? If you have any info feel free. Thanks Started a week ago and made the pics today. Piping for all the Hydro. cylinders, and a new pressurized air bottle. Ready for the booth. Next pics will be on blue background... Thanks for checking in ! Best, laurent.
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    Update, Hi all We'll the riveting is 90%done,i need to improve on this but for now it's ok. And I have built and painted a few parts. Hope to get things together tonight. I need to get some paint going can't wait. A few quick pics.....
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    That sure sounds like your typical dutch day! Still trying the whip the resin into shape. Some panel lines were lost in the process, but I'll restore them and check my reference for extra lines and rivets.
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    Here's the pic showing the navigator seat in place (in the shadows), the radio boxes have been fitted to a new bulkhead as the previous one was not wide enough and the panelling protecting the wiring looms on the startboard side have been fitted as well as the base for the flight engineers panels just above it. Interior is a mix of Manchester and Lancaster as details of it's older sister are difficult to find and as the early Lancasters were converted Manchester, well... you know what I mean.
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    Done almost OOB in 2009. Gunze acrylic paints and kit decals. Blast tubes from brass tubing; undercarriage position indicators from stretched sprue; harness from Tamiya tape. Hope these aren't too dark on your monitor. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph.
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    1:32 Sopwith F.1 Camel “Le Rhône” Wingnut Wings Kit No. 32071 Available from Wingnut Wings for $79,- Introduction Today we look at our fourth Sopwith Camel, being the Le Rhône engine version. Now you may think: big deal. It’s the Camel sprues with a Le Rhône engine thrown in for variation. Yes and no. But in order to really assess this is to take a look at our other reviews too: F.1 Camel ‘BR.1’ F1 Camel ‘Clerget’ 2F.1 ‘Ship’s Camel’ Stay tuned for the USAS Camel review on LSM soon. As I have done with the Ship’s Camel review, I will try to help you choose from 5 equally great Sopwith Camel kits. Why should I choose the Sopwith F.1 Camel “Le Rhône”? To the untrained eye the WW1 era rotary engines are pretty hard to discern. But when you look closely you start to spot a lot of obvious differences. Even between this Le Rhône 9J 110HP and it’s predecessor the Le Rhône 9C 80HP. The 9J has round copper intake manifold tubing on the back of the engine, whereas the 9C has square shaped manifolds which are seen from the front. This French origin little engine (100cm in diameter) was pretty interesting. It was built under license in Britain and Germany. The latter being named the Overursel UR.II. The 110HP addition to the name ofcourse indicates the amount of power it could whip up, but this engine was known to produce higher output depending on make, circumstances and ‘tuning’. Is this why you should choose this kit? Nah… I mean: the Clerget and Bentley engines had nominated output of 140HP and 150HP. The Le Rhône engine. Not the round shaped copper manifolds running to the back: One of the pro’s the Le Rhône engines had was the hydraulic Constantinesco interrupter gear for the guns, while the Clerget Camels had the less efficient Sopwith-Kauper No. 3 mechanical synchronizing gear. The hydraulic system was way more reliable and used impulses transmitted by a column of liquid to enable the gun trigger. Quite intricate for the day! This is all cool, but not visible on your model, so still no real good reason to choose this kit So let’s take a look at the schemes included in this kit (I usually do this at the end of my review). The Le Rhône Camels were used pretty late in the war, which means you can beat them up a little and you’ll find some colourful schemes. Scheme A gives you Camel B5417 ‘11’, flown by GAC Manley. “B” Flight 54 Squadron RFC, February 1918. This plane was forced to land behind enemy lines during an offensive patrol flight and photo’s were taken while it was on the ground. No cowling, stressed skin, broken tail skid. This could be a cool dio… Here it is on the ground. This is a different photo than shown in the booklet. Here the ailerons are still up and the fuselage looks less damaged: Scheme B shows Camel B5423 “6”, flown by FM Ohrt. “A” Flight 54 Squadron RFC, January 1918. Another Camel that was forced to land behind enemy lines while on offensive patrol after being hit by ground fire. The photo’s in the booklet show a pretty battered Camel. Chipped paint on the wheel covers. Even one cover missing (so you can replace it with a spoked wheel from Steven Robson). Both scheme A and B give you a chance to build a captured Camel that went through a rough landing. Scheme C is F.1 Camel C1555, dubbed “Suds”, flown by Francis L Luxmoore & Sydney P Gamon. 78(Home Defense) Squadron RFC, January-February 1918. Now here is a colourful scheme! It was equipped for night flying missions in the form of Holt lights and flares. The fuselage and wheel covers are thought to be light blue, but this however is not 100% certain. Still it would make for a nice change of all the green fabric! Scheme D shows F.1 Camel F2137 “U”, flown by Donald R MacLaren. “C” Flight 46 Squadron RAF, September-October 1918. We’ve got a real Ace on our hands here! The Canadian Donald Roderick MacLaren had 54 victories on his name. His last 9 victories were achieved in this particular plane. Red wheel covers, red pointy spinner and red/white stripes along the fuselage. When celebrating his last victory he broke his leg, after which he was sent back to the UK from the battlefields in France. After the war he assisted in setting up the Royal Canadian Air Force. He died at the age of 95 in 1988. You can find his medals today in the Canadian War Museum. So in short: if you’re from Canada… you HAVE to build this scheme! Take a look at MacLaren in wartime: And here later on in his life, after making a name in the Canadian Air Force and civilian aviation: Scheme E shows F.1 Camel F2141 “L”, flown by H Burdick. “B” Flight 17th Aero Squadron USAS, August – October 1918. This is a tricky one. This United States unit flew under the command of the RAF. Therefor you see RAF markings (like the white dumbbell on the fuselage). To make things more confusing this white dumbbell was also used by 45 Sqn in Italy at about the same time… Howard Burdick was born in Brooklyn, New York and had 8 victories to his name. Pretty cool detail: Howard’s son became a P-51 Ace in ww2. Howard died in 1975. Why you should build his plane? He was awarded the DSC (Distinguished Service Cross). Here’s why: The Distinguished Service Cross is presented to Howard Burdick, Second Lieutenant (Air Service), U.S. Army, for extraordinary heroism in action northwest of Cambrai, France, September 28, 1918. Attacked by two Fokker biplanes, Lieutenant Burdick outmaneuvered both machines, shot one into flames and routed the other one. Later, seeing three Fokkers attacking an American aviator, he at once dove into the combat to his assistance, shooting down one and driving off the other two. His quick and unhesitating attack, single-handed, on the three Fokkers save the life of his fellow pilot. And here's the man himself: Survivors As far as I could trace there is only one ‘air worthy’ Sopwith F.1 Camel with a Le Rhone engine left today. It changed hands a couple of times and is now for sale. It’s over 90 years old, has it’s original data plate and is overall original. If you want it, you can own it. For a mere 2.8 million dollars on the Vintage Aviation website: Link. All in all there are about 8 original Camels left in Museums worldwide, but many are restored and have many parts reproduction parts, new fabric and non original engines. Here's the B6291 as it was in 1993. Beautiful. The kit The kit itself is pretty comprehensible when you open the box. Five plastic sprues, some photo etch and decals. The A, B, C and D sprues are the same for the Clerget, Bentley and USAS kits. You can tell this by the four cowlings included on the A sprues and the separate engine sprue E. Sprue D shows a bit of warping in the sprue itself. The parts however are not affected. I have seen this on both my kits and read about it on some forums, but don’t sweat it: the parts are fine. The kit consists of: • 165 plastic parts • 17 plastic parts that make up the Le Rhone 9J 110HP engine • Optional cut down cockpit section (for scheme E), Holt Lights & Flares (for scheme C), Cooper bombs and optional small and large cut out top wing sections. • 10 photo etched parts • Cartograf decals Sprue A (containing cowlings, cockpit, wheels, struts...) Vickers guns: The middle cowling in this pic. That's the one you need... Sprue B. Wings parts, fuselage, instrument panel... Cockpit combing: Delicate fuselage surface detail: Inside fuselage. Ejector marks well out of way: Instrument panel with nice depth and detail: Lower wing detail. Not the control pulley and stitching detail: Upper wing with small cut out. A version with large cut out opening is included as well. C Sprue (transparencies): D Sprue (with wings, tail, rudder, prop, etc..) This is the only prop you'll need for this kit: Control stick and rudder controls: Looks at the delicate fabric over the ribs. Not overdone. just right: Sprue E. The Le Rhone 9J engine! Only 17 parts but a gem once assembled: Manifolds and push rods: Photo etch parts: Cartograf decals. Thin. 100% Registered. Great colours and detail. As always. Verdict Yes. This is the perfect kit of a great plane. Nothing more you can wish for. 5 late war schemes of the Le Rhone powered version. Really well researched as we have come to expect from Wingnut Wings. Superbly detailed and complete. The little Le Rhone engine is crisp and delicate. Really nothing more you could wish for… VERY highly recommended. My sincere thanks to Wingnut Wings for this review sample. Jeroen Peters
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    I herewith declare thee finished. What a pleasurable build this has been. The model sits a bit high on it's legs as the oleo is depicted as unloaded while I have included the two 250 pound bombs duh! Next model will have to have the oleos shortened. These are some preliminary pics, will take some less bad tomorrow. Also included something for comparison.
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    Today i made some progress on the Fee. Time to glue the bottom armor plate onto the fuselage This was already painted in a black primer coat and today i painted the iron coat on it. Next step, the landing gear. I dry-fitted each part onto the fuselage and glued only the part's together. After the glue dried, i removed the landing gear from the fuselage to ease the painting proces. The early balcony machine-gun mount was also glued together and afterwards removed. Finally i made an early start on the 120 hp Beardmore engine also. Greetz Danny
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    Thank's Guy's for the nice comment's. Cockpit of the Fee is finally done and closed in by the two fuselage half's. Seat-belt's are also added and insides are wheatered. Greetz Danny
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    Update time, Last saturday afternoon one of the SIG RAF/USAAF ipms modelling afternoons took place and these are great opportunities to get some more work done on the Manchester. The location for the instrument panel has been made, this will provide a base for a newly scratchbuilt panel, the navigators position also got some more constructive work done. It was fun and productive at the same time.
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    After taking a deep breath time to decal!! I have tried some on a spare piece but that was not very convincing but I figured I would have a go at it. I think everything went quite well except the roundel wich is giving me hard times, don't know how to fix that. I took me all day to do one side, that makes me wonder did they fly these planes or read them? Rick.
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    Started work on the Hydraulic Schlepper. Impressive kit...
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    ok more things done on one off the engines.more wire started the cleanup of one of the suports of the engine After but stil more cleanup to do Mark
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    1/32 Sopwith F.1 Camel “Clerget” Wingnut Wings Kit # 32074 Available from Wingnut Wings for $79, plus shipping The Sopwith Camel was a British First World War single-seat biplane fighter aircraft introduced on the Western Front in 1917. It had been developed by the Sopwith Aviation Company as a successor to the earlier Sopwith Pup and would become one of the most iconic fighter aircraft of the First World War. The Camel was typically powered by a single Clerget 9B rotary engine and was armed with twin synchronized .303 Vickers machine guns. Though proving difficult to handle, it provided for a high level of manoeuvrability to an experienced pilot, an attribute which was highly valued in the type's principal use as a fighter aircraft. In total, Camel pilots have been credited with the shooting down of 1,294 enemy aircraft, more than any other Allied fighter of the conflict. Towards the end of the Great War, the type had also seen use as a ground-attack aircraft, partially due to it having become increasingly outclassed as the capabilities of fighter aircraft on both sides was rapidly advancing at that time. The main variant of the Camel was designated as the F.1; several dedicated variants were built for a variety of roles, including the 2F.1 Ship's Camel, which was used for operating from the flight decks of aircraft carriers, the Comic night fighter variant, and the T.F.1, a dedicated 'trench fighter' that had been armoured for the purpose of conducting ground attacks upon heavily defended enemy lines. The Camel also saw use as a two-seat trainer aircraft. In January 1920, the last aircraft of the type were withdrawn from RAF service. (Courtesy of Wikipedia) The kit Wingnut Wings always said they wouldn’t release certain subjects as they had been adequately covered by other manufacturers, such as Roden. This was very disappointing for a lot of WNW fans as they wanted to see the magic Kiwi touch applied to these key aircraft. One of these Holy Grail subjects was of course the Sopwith Camel, and after much friendly pressure from fans, worldwide, we now see not one, but FIVE new Camel releases, as well as another in the Duellist series. These kits cover all the various incarnations of the famous little fighter, with their various engine types, and those in unusual service. This review covers the more familiar Clerget-engine type. The kit spec is as follows: Dimensions 26cm x 18cm High quality Cartograf decals for 6 aircraft 166 high quality injection moulded plastic parts Optional fuselage halves with alternative lacing details, windscreens, cut down cockpit decking, early and late undercarriage, propellers, 20lb Cooper bombs & carrier Highly detailed 18 part 130-140hp Clerget 9B/9Bf engine 10 photo-etched metal detail parts Fine in-scale rib tape detail Full rigging diagram Steve Anderson’s lovely artwork adorns the lid again, with Ronny Bar’s scheme profiles along the edge. All new Camel releases have many common parts which are supplied across THREE light grey sprues and one clear sprue. Sprues A, C, and D are labelled as ‘Sopwith Camel’, whilst Sprue B is the only one to carry the ‘Sopwith F.1 Camel’ nomenclature. Specific to this kit is the Clerget 9B engine which resides on Sprue E, with ‘E’ typically equated for ‘engine’ on WNW releases. This release also contains a single fret of brass PE, as well as a single, large decal sheet covering all SIX schemes. All sprues are separately bagged and these numerous bags are sealed in a large outer one that has an identifying slip which states which kit engine is included. In this case, Clerget. Sprue A The first thing you’ll notice here are sheer number of parts. Firstly though, a quick look at what the cockpit offers. Everything I like about WNW engineering can be seen on two of the main cockpit parts, namely the port and starboard sidewalls. These delicate parts have been moulded with integral cabane struts, so of course there’s no need to wonder about the angle of these when you later add the wings. The walls themselves are superbly detailed, with the only ejector pin marks in areas that will be covered with subsequent assemblies. A small number of ejector pin nodes will need to be clipped off certain areas too. This feature minimises the need to place them on parts themselves. The cockpit floor is very unusual in this case because it has the pilot seat base and lower fuel tank integrally moulded. A separate seat back has some nicely moulded wicker effect. Other cockpit parts included here are engine back plate, magazines, carburettor air induction pipe, Vickers machine guns with Hyland cocking levers (water cooling jacket being separate to the main breech), empty ammo chutes etc. On this sprue, you will notice a central lower fuse bomb rack and accompanying 20lb bombs, the latter being comprised of two parts each, wheels with separate external hubs, various engine cowls, undercarriage V forks (two types, early and late) and spreader bar, upper fuselage gun cowls, and wing struts etc. As this is a common sprue, it’s important that you check this against the parts map as there are a good number of parts that must not be used with this release. Among those are three of the four engine cowls, two machine gun breeches, one of the two undershields, and one set of wheels/hubs. Two spinner options are supplied in this release. Sprue B A nice feature here is the full span lower wing with its excellent rib tape rendition and subtle leading edge rib-lets that you can just about see in the correct light. The fabric and rib representation has been very nicely captured. Strut mounting positions are moulded as key slots so as to make their attachment much less ambiguous. Ailerons are separate. Control cable openings with the moulded pulleys are included. These will be fitted over with a clear cover which you may be best giving a light misting of clear yellow or orange to simulate how these ended up in exposure to UV light. Instructions do say that these were generally overpainted in the wing colour. Two upper centre wing sections are included, with the same level of detail, but only one will be used in this release. Note the tabs onto which the outer panels will slot. There are actually THREE fuselage halves in this release, with the extra being an alternative starboard option that has different lacing. External detail is extremely refined with that neat stitching pattern, wooden panels at the cockpit area, with nail lines, and the forward access panels moulded in situ complete with fastener detail. Of course, the upper MG deck is separate, as is the cockpit coaming. Internally, the cockpit has rib and stringer detail. The rest of this will come from the cockpit tub. As for the coaming, there are a number of elements of surgery you may need to employ here, depending on the scheme you choose. This could range from the removal of the rim of the fuel filler port, to cutting back the coaming almost totally at the front end. Illustration is clear as to what needs doing and for what scheme. Lastly, an instrument panel is included here. Decals are supplied for the instruments, and you will also need to remove a small amount of plastic to accommodate the interrupter gear that was used on this version. Sprue C This clear sprue contains the various permutations of windscreen, and the numerous pulley access ports for the wings. Being a common sprue, there are several other parts which should not be used. Clarity is excellent. Sprue D Despite the Camel’s wings being very thin, Wingnut Wings has used slide moulding technology to incorporate a slot into the single part upper wing panels, into which the centre section tabs will locate. This is very impressive. Those wings exhibit the same finesse of detail as the lower wing, and this continues to the other flying and control surfaces that are moulded here, such as the fin/rudder, ailerons and tail-plane. The tail-plane and fin/rudder are moulded as single pieces. I think these can be scored so as to droop the elevators and angle the rudder, but be careful if you choose to do that. Two propeller options are supplied. Other sprue parts include the compass/inclinometer, rudder bar, control column, control horns, Rotherham petrol pump, Aldis sight, etc. Sprue E In any sprue indicates a reason to use a razor saw to remove parts, it is this one. E is of course for ‘engine’ and here we have the Clerget, comprising of 17 parts. Yes, the spec says ‘18’ but one of these isn’t for use on this particular release. The detail here really is excellent, with fine cooling fins on the cylinders, and some very fine detail on the cylinder head rocker arms. More filigree detail can be seen on the induction pipe hub, and of course, those frighteningly fragile-looking pushrods need to be handled with care. Note that there are two options for the pushrods. Photo Etch There are 10 parts on the PE fret. Two of these are for the lap-belts, and the others for the machine gun jacket ends and reticules, Rotherham petrol pump brackets and two as of yet unidentified parts (No.4). Production quality is excellent, with nice definition and small tags to remove these from the fret. Decals There are SIX marking schemes included in this release, with some nicely diverse markings, all typically on PC10 or PC12 backgrounds. The sheet itself is split into sections so as to making identifying your specific decals far easier. Stencil data and instruments are also included. It comes as no surprise to find out that the sheet is printed by Cartograf, and the glossy finish sheet contains beautifully thin decals with solid and authentic colour, and minimal carrier film which is always good to see. The schemes included are: Sopwith F.1 Camel B3834 “Wonga Bonga”, RH Daly (7 victories) & AF Brandon (1 victory), Manston War Flight RNAS, July-August 1917. Sopwith F.1 Camel B3889 “B 1”, CF Collett (11 victories), B Flight 70 Sqn RFC, August 1917. Sopwith F.1 Camel B3893, AR Brown (10 victories), 9(N) Sqn RNAS, September-October 1917. Sopwith F.1 Camel B6289, HL Nelson (1 victory), WM Alexander (23 victories), A Flight 10(N) Sqn RNAS, January 1918. Sopwith F.1 Camel B6313, WG Barker (50 victories), 139 Sqn RAF, late July 1918. Sopwith F.1 Camel B7406, HG Watson (14 victories), C Flight 4 Sqn AFC, March 1918. Instruction Manual These are always something very special in their production, and this glossy, 24-page production is no different. Starting with a concise history of the Camel, and then a detailed parts map and colour reference chart, the model itself is broken down into 10 constructional sequences. That doesn’t sound a lot, right? Well, that’s true, but each step contains several sequences, such as No.6. This, for example, illustrates everything from tail surface addition through guns and windscreen. There is certainly a good amount of building to be had with this kit, and the levels of detail could never possibly disappoint. Whilst the construction illustrations are in a drawn, grey style with blue to illustrate new parts additions (and red for modification), several colour illustrations annotate the manual, showing what assemblies should look like under a coat of paint. Of extra use are the numerous period images that are dotted throughout the manual, illustrating specific points of construction/detail. A full rigging chart is included, with two colours used to define the differences in cord type. A small rigging change is included for one scheme too, with this being made clear in the constructional sequences too. It is crucial with these kits that you decide exactly which machine that you will build from the outset, due to the numerous differences that can pertain to one or more scheme. The last pages contain the scheme illustrations, ably presented by the amazing Ronny Bar. Technical and historical notes are supplied with the schemes, as is a little period imagery. Conclusion Well, we all waited for it (and some still are!), but was it worth it? Without a doubt. This highly detailed kit captures the very essence of one of the most iconic aircraft of the Great War, and it’s fitting that we should see this now, in its centenary year. I remember as a kid that I was loaned a pilot’s logbook, leather flying helmet and angular flying goggles from a lady whose father flew the Camel, and that sort of transfixed me with this specific type. Here I am now, 35yrs later, and I have the ultimate in injection moulded kits of this very pretty aircraft. Intelligent design seems to be the key to WNW kits, and this model should be buildable by most people with a modicum of building experience. Rigging is a different matter of course! What else can I say? Perfect subject, superbly engineered and moulded, and with some very attractive schemes. This is the Camel to build. Very highly recommended Our thanks to Wingnut Wings for this review sample. To buy directly, click THIS link.
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    Hello, here she is - the "Dottie Mae" called Republic P-47D Thunderbolt in 1/32 scale by Eduard. The kit is consisting of the plastic parts of the Hasegawa kit, plus Eduard Resin parts for the wheels, photo etched parts, masks and decals for three versions of the kit incl. a lot of stencils. The cockpit was made with the resin parts from Quickboost, the gun barrels are from Master Models. Painted with Tamiya's Aluminium, then sprayed each panel in variations of Vallejo's Metal Color series and clear coat. The interior is painted with colors from Lifecolor. Hope that you like the Dottie. Cheers. Micha
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    I think there you have answered your own question ... To produce an accurate kit on the F-thru-K variants appears to take a fair bit of work! Even then ... no-one has got it right ... Hasegawa, Trumpeter and Revell kits all have issues ... Cyber Hobby have the E sorted (with the exception of the E-1) - not perfect, but as good as you'll get. For all the 109's available, I think a Tamiya kit would still sell in masses ... well engineered, highly detailed, superb fit and finish and, most importantly - considering the likely price tag - accurate. It doesn't look likely to happen, though. Rog