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Showing most liked content since 02/26/2017 in Posts

  1. 11 likes
    Hi all, I've just finished this build of the Trumpeter 1/32 Junkers Ju 87A 'Anton', in Spanish Civil War colours. This project preceded the Fw 189 I'm building, but this one was postponed a while due to waiting for masks and decals to be made. All national markings and serial are masked, with the spat emblem and stencils as decals. Model has the cowl corrected and a number of Eduard sets glued in there. All in all, a really nice model kit, not without accuracy issues. I've been in the modelling doldrums for a few projects now, so I needed something that would restore some faith in ability and drive me on to complete the Fw 189. This one will be in the next issue of Military Illustrated Modeller, published mid-April. I hope you like her.
  2. 9 likes
    Finished this one before June last year and was intended for the 1945 group build here but never made it. Great kit and goes together well. I used some of Barracudacast's resin bits including small wheel bulge inserts, exhausts, spinner, blades, main wheels and the little cowling vents. Also one of Roy's decal sheets as well. Thanks for looking Bevan
  3. 6 likes
    This is the Kittyhawk Kingfisher converted to an RAAF aircraft by deleating the hole in the front windshield, adding a ring and bead sight, adding sway braces to the bomb racks, adding an extra strake to the main float and modifying the water rudder linkage. This kit gets some bad press which I generally agree with however nothing that can prevent a nice result. Painted in Alclad and AK Extreme Metal. The photos were taken by my mate Eric G Cheers for looking!
  4. 6 likes
    Wow... Thanks a million... For the pics and the compliment about the site. It took some elbow grease but it was worth it! New features keep surprising me on a daily basis. I really hope Rick can shed some light on the wings this week. Thanks again. Here's a pic of some detail work taken directly from one of your shots! (Needs some washes etc to blend the wiring in).
  5. 6 likes
    Hi Everyone, As the title implies, i managed to finish yet another 32nd scale aircraft model. Building on the learning curve gained from my earlier Goodyear FG-1, i present to you my F4U-2 Corsair, in the markings of VF (N)-101 aboard USS ENTERPRISE. This model uses a combination of conversion parts from Lone Star Models (Radome), AMS Resin(Flame Dampeners) and OWL (Radio Altimeter antennae). I also used the Barracuda Studios Corsair Cockpit Placard decal set and the Diamond Tread F4U/F6F wheels. As conversion efforts go, it was actually pretty simple, and one of the big benefits i had was the pilot who flew this aircraft is actually still alive! Bob Brunson flew this very plane and is alive and well in Estes Park, CO. Bob crashed in Bu Aer 02710, "Number 10" while coming aboard ENTERPRISE at night. Bob walked away with hardly a scratch, but his Corsair was deep sixed one night in May of 1944. This was my first big experiment in using Tamiya Acrylics; On my FG-1 i used Mr Color for the first time, but because of a lot of glowing reviews i heard about Tamiya (plus its availability), i decided to mix my own camouflage colours. Some of the blues were mixed to some Tamiya mixing Formulae from an old IPMS-Stockholm article, and some were suggested mixed via Martin Sanford. I mixed small batches of each major colour using the different formulas, and mixed and matched from the ones i liked. The single most controversial aspect of these planes is the paint scheme. There are only a handful of useful photos of these planes taken aboard INTREPID and ENTERPRISE, and what they depict is subject to some debate. Some people belive (and at least one book published) profiles of this aircraft with black flanks painted on the fuselage side. I was always a little skeptical about this; having spoken with Bob he was positive there was no black on the plane. Looking at "Better" pictures of the Marine F4U-2s assigned to VMF (N)-532, i've concluded the the Corsair in question had a heavily blended Non Spec Sea Blue fuselage, carried very far down the sides of the fuselage, and that the plane may have had semi gloss sea blue (Which is darker than Non Spec Sea Blue) applied to the fuselage sides, resulting in a combination flat finish/ semi gloss finish to the Fuselage. Given the degree of blending, in the picture you see below, its understandable that people would mistake the fuselage for black... The markings on these planes were very low-key. In fact, i refer to this model as, "A Very accurate depiction of a very dull paint scheme". There was originally a VF (N)-101 sticker applied under the windscreen, but when the remnants of -101 transferred from INTREPID to ENTERPRISE, orders came to remove the decals. Richard "Chick" Harmer's F4U-2 actually had nose art painted on the cowling called, "The Impatient Virgin" but no photos or artwork have been seen. The national insignias were painted on using MONTEX paint masks. For the most part they worked well, but the MONTEX instructions have the wing insignias slightly mislocated, and i didn't discover the error until it was too late. Due to the star and bar nature of the markings, i had to sort of apply the mask in steps; having applied flat white for the stars, i next located the stars in the proper positions, and then proceeded to build the remaining masks, element by element, around the stars. I did have problems with the blues of the insignia lifting off in very small flecks, that required a repair job way out of proportion to the problem caused. I used Mr Color Levelling thinner to thin the paint, and it worked well, but these itty bitty chips of paint were maddening and had no rhyme or reason. F4U-2s had a simplified antenna installation, consisting of a wire running from the leading edge of the right stabilizer, up to the rubber tensioner assembly and then down to the ceramic lead-in point behind the right hand side of the canopy. There was a simple whip antenna, and a Transponder/ IFF antenna on the belly. The 2 radio Altimeter antennas were mounted along the keel. These antennas are photo etched brass, made by OWL and while delicate, worked great. I cannot recommend them highly enough. In this shot, you can see the IFF antenna a little better, along with the flame dampening exhausts. I built a display base from 5/8" Plywood onto which i laminated a basswood carrier deck made by Nautilus models. It was painted with Tamiya acrylics and weathered with a wash of paynes gray and raw umber. First time i did this and for the most part i like it. The deck is a bit too blue- it should be a much lighter light gray colour- but not bad for a first effort. Not seen here, but i also had a brass nameplate made as well as a protective 1/8" thick acrylic display case. Close up of the antenna installation... The white light in the tail cone is a piece of .015 diameter Plastruct rod. As i write this, we are making plans to fly this model to Bob so I can deliver it in person. I am looking forward to it. If you ever get the opportunity to do something like this for a veteran, take my advice and do it. You wont regret it. david img163.tif
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    Thanks! Almost done. Final bits and bobs. Drilled the holes in the canopy that were actually not holes but containers filled with silica squeezed between the double layered glass to prevent fogging. (You were right Cees ) I did not drill the holes all the way through, but halfway. This comes closest to looking like the real thing. Added latches to the nose cowling: Adding loose brake lines to the gear: (made them from lead wired, wrapped with thin strips of masking tape)
  8. 5 likes
    Hey guy's, have not done a lot of moddeling this past half year because i had to finish the restauration of 2 pinball machines, the owners where waiting for it. But now those are done, so on with the plastic Before i trew everything in storage i managed to glue the wings to the fuselage, so first thing i did when i pulled it back out was to finish glueing the side boards, one fitted realy wel, the other i had to shim a lot I am planning on further detailing of the auxilliary bay, but first i want to paint this beast, so out comes the maskingtape prepped al the other assembley's and out came the primer and the "plat de resistence" tonight i will look at it more closely, but it seemed rather ok, still a few minor seams and blemisches to correct, but far less than i expected. see you soon, grtz free
  9. 5 likes
    Well, the kit's not made of resin itself, but a good portion of the contents will be... Standard Hasegawa kit, with added Eduard BMW801 radial engine, Eagle Editions Cockpit and wheels, Henri Daehne spinner and propeller set, and possibly some other assorted parts from the Aires D-9 super set. I had always wondered why no-one had bothered with an engine set for this kit, so now I guess we'll see if the Eduard motor will fit (my initial measurements say it will). Work has commenced with the wing panel inserts for the gun covers, and about a half-hour's worth of rivets in the same area.
  10. 5 likes
    On a roll now!! After the washes I'll add a satin coat followed by pencil weathering with light green, white and silver.
  11. 5 likes
    More green shades (RLM83) and faint presence of english insignia.
  12. 4 likes
    to read more, kindly visit our blog: http://www.specialhobby.info/2017/03/austrian-hungarian-and-german-weapons.html
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    Hi Rob, I've done a couple of tests on left over transparent pieces. But just looking at the way it sits now keeps me from giving it a go... Adding panels now. Note the latches on the right cowling panel in the 2nd photo. That was a b*tch!
  15. 4 likes
    Now you tell me! Sprayed the "overpainted" US markings and the masks were really helpful to get a nice result. I will be using more of these I'm sure. Perhaps it is too clean as pics of Dutch B25's show the work was done very roughly but in scale it works better IMHO. Now to get the Dutch flags masked off using Tamiya tape. Cees
  16. 4 likes
    Hi folks, In its old incarnation, LSM was operating on an old legacy system software system that would no longer be supported from April this year. The removal of support meant that critical updates and patches would no longer be available. That would of course compromise our community. The decision was made to do this major upgrade to v4 of IPB. This was something that we needed to liaise with the provider over, and the changes are quite radical. We implore you to play with the system and look around before posting questions regarding changes. There is nothing you can break, so go explore. We have far more features with this software, than ever before, and more possibilities to exploit. Notice we ditched the darker appearance in favour of something more appealing. If you like further simplicity, then there is an 'alternative' theme that can be accessed from the bottom of the page. You will notice that one legacy from the conversion are the extra line breaks (spaces) in between paragraphs and in your signatures. With the signatures, please can you edit them and remove those spaces to condense them, or they will look ugly. Enjoy the site and get dome modelling work posted here! LSM TEAM
  17. 4 likes
    With the help of Rick Kranias (who went to great length and the NASM museum) to find out what the top of the wings look like today and Levier (Brian Silcox) who shared valuable photo's with me. Rick pointed me to the Valiant Wings book on the Ta152. I went to the LHS where they happened to have it in stock, but sadly only pics of the undersides. Anyhoo.... This is where I'm at. Interpreting old photo's and using common sense. Ah... and that one dusty photo from the concept notes book... Not done yet, but it's getting there.
  18. 4 likes
    Diorama's Boats all scales Figures, all scale.......some NSFW And for James, Star Wars I hope you enjoy the photo's guy's.... Greetz Danny
  19. 4 likes
    Hello, my finished G6 "Rhino" in 1/35 scale by Takom. It is a huge kit and a huge car... I hope that you like it! Cheers, Micha
  20. 4 likes
    Hi all, still aiming for this weekend Finished.... 1st for 2017 for me. Thanks all for your comments. Here is where I'm up to.
  21. 4 likes
    Evening everyone Not a lot of progress to report on the big Shackleton project, but work has been going on, albeit at a glacial pace... I've been getting the wing surfaces sorted, as after the outer wings were attached a coat of filler-primer revealed a multitude of sins to be sorted. The original plastic of the Lancaster kit was quite bumpy from the start, and the rather rudimentary panel detailing needed to go, too. So, the pictures you see below are the results of three coats of filler-primer that have now been sanded back and polished, to leave me with a lovely and smooth surface for the final priming: I've also begun the process of marking out the position of the outboard nacelles in preparation to make those: Have I said before that this model is rather large? Here's a 1/32nd Spitfire snuggled up and shows the massive span of this thing - it's not far short of the 1/32nd B-29 I did a few years back: Not the most enthralling of updates, but I wanted to assure you that this project is still ticking along slowly... On a final note, does anyone know of a good source of plans for the radome set-up on the AEW2? I'm going to redo my earlier one and need a lower, side, front and rear profile of the 'dome itself is anyone knows of a good set of drawings? Until next time, Tom
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    The battle continues, and believe me, this has been a battle in places. My replacement boom arrived from HpH and allowed me to continue this bird. Again, the booms seams were sanded flat. A couple of spots where the resin dipped in a little required filling. As this would later be scribed along the joint, I opted to do this with epoxy glue instead of putty, as this would be more stable and less likely to break away under the scriber. Undercarriage bulkheads are now installed within the booms, ready for paint. There is a problem with the curvature of the wing panels and that that is cast onto the boom wing root fairings. On the outboard side, the wing root simply sits a little high and the joint needs sanding down to match the wing panels. However, on the inboard fairing, the wing profile of the inboard panel is almost FLAT!! As the fairing is curved and site far higher than the wing, this had to be significantly reduced to match the wing along the joint. Sounds bad, but only took about 30 mins to fix, prior to re-scribing lost details. This is where I am at the moment. As you can see, she's finally coming together. The upper fuse section is only temporarily sat in position here, and the model is only held together with tape, prior to the gear bays being painted. I'm not going to say the hard work is done, as the canopies need to be fitted, but I do feel like I'm getting somewhere now.
  24. 4 likes
    Ok ... so ... much more upbeat in this post Firstly ... My second Fly Hurricane Mk.I arrived ... Complete with 2 'extras' bags (instructions, decals, photo etch etc) - the extra being for the first kit which didn't have it packed .. It also arrived in decent time, taking only 3 and a half weeks to arrive - instead of the 2 months for the previous example!! Also ... The second Revell Me.262B kit arrived from Hannants ... A MUCH improved effort in packaging sees this kit box without damage. ... and in reference to said, damaged kit ... a fellow modeller sent me the most amusing email ... The email, in summary, alludes to the concept that I should have just 'put up' with the earlier mentioned damaged kit ... as the contents were probably ok. I should "expect" items to get damaged in the mail - especially from overseas suppliers and I shouldn't "con" additional "freebies" from outlets when nothing was really wrong with the item anyway. ... apparently I'm the reason that kit prices increase at retail outlets and English retail outlets (in particular) go out of business flabbergasted ... I just laughed and hit delete! My take? ... I pay "new" money and shipping - I get "new" (read undamaged/unused) goods! If you stuff up on packaging, not taking reasonable care and effort to ensure "safe" delivery - you replace! Rog
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    Bit of progress on the deck fittings. The forward spar hanger was a bit of a headache, fit-wise. The location makes fitting the support brace a challenge - took about 30 mins and two pairs of pliers to get all the curves and twists just right. Hmmm. Realizing that a black brace, in shadow, against a black section of hull doesn't show very well ! Foredeck almost done
  28. 4 likes
    RB seatbelts done. These are the best textile belts I have ever used. No need to stain or wash as substrate is colored. Just some gloss applied for leather look and boom! Done. Ready for assembly Cockpit all buttoned up. Fuselage buttoned up. Spine and tail dry-fitted. Now on to the engine.
  29. 3 likes
    Hi, I' am starting this topic because it was rightly asked by our admin to not only lurk but show some work, thanks Jeroen. First things first, a little introduction, i' am Free, born in 1974 and currently residing in the Brussels area of Belgium. I always loved modelling altough I only build 1 plane every decade or so, to many other hobby's . I have good memory's of a tamiya swordfish 1/48 and a 1/48 corsair, but i 'll need to dig those out of my parents attic to take some pictures. Fast forward ten years and the urge was there again to put some plastic together, I bought a britfish and a Fokker DVII from eduard and even a 1/32 WNW britfish. I started with the Fokker, this did not end well, I never managed to attach the top wing and destroyed the struds while trying to do the latter. He will be remebered like this: So on to the main subject, Tamiya Corsair birdcage 1/32 Barracudacals cockpit decals Barracudacast ignition upgrade Barracudacast wheels Grey Matter Engine compartment The following work is not up to the forums standards but i' am a fast learner and can always use some tips, so don't hold back I started with the engine, added oil lines and ignition cables A little bit further along resting under a beerglas? for dust protection an old trick from my grandfather (watchmaker) thats all for now, i lost two hours trying to post photo's from google, had to abandon. More after dinner grtz free
  30. 3 likes
    Hi all, My car-door Typhoon is now finished. As much as this kit can punish the senses, I really do like it very much. Watch out for it in the next reprint of the 'How to Build...' book from Doolittle Media:
  31. 3 likes
    The devil is in the detail. although I have been working on the p-40 almost every evening it looks like very little progress has been made. However, the tailwheel is on and the interior of the tailwheel doors and leather boot have been painted. The prop has been fitted with one of the nylon bushes provided in the kit and is removable. Very handy. Next stage is the washing/weathering process, although I don't want to make it look too filthy. The end is in sight.
  32. 3 likes
    Hello, this are some of the pictures I'll use as reference.
  33. 3 likes
    Hey Jeroen, why caring about the opinion of others, when you feel different about it? Maybe the Lady from the Lake has some suggestions about aged canopies. Cheers Rob
  34. 3 likes
    Hello, this is my new project: Tamiya's wonderful kit of the De Havilland Mosquito Fb. MK VI in big scale 1/32. The kit consists of more then 690 plastic parts, 2 frets of photo etched parts, two sheets with decals, screws, magnetos, optional clear engine covers, big mounting instruction and info booklets.... a huge kit with so many wonderful small details... and small and smaller parts Additionally I will use the photo etched parts from Eduard for the exterieur, and some colored ones for the interior. Also the fabric seat belts and masks for the canopy, some brass barrels for the guns and the Eduard resin kits of the Brassin series for the two gun mounts as I want to show these partly in open position. Some additional decals for the stencils and some new markings with wonderful nose art are plannes as well .... I hope that this is an interesting new project for you! Cheers Michael
  35. 3 likes
    Hello, after the mounting of the upper wing I have added the pipework between engine and wing, then started the rigging. The turnbuckles are from Gaspatch Models and glued in drilled holes. Once dry I have glued EZ-Line through the turnbuckles, stretched it and glued it in place. Some adjustment of the turnbuckles will follow. Next I will add the landing gear and the propeller ... Cheers Micha
  36. 3 likes
    Hey All, I thought I would show how I have built the Tow Box. The Tow Box is the large anchor structure for the towhook. I don't know if it's called a Tow Box, I just pulled that out of my as . The parts were not to numerous, but a lot of detail in a small piece. Parts for the tow hook... Building the box... The anchor bolt for the tow hook goes all the way through the tow box and ends with a large nut to hold all secure. I first had to get all the parts aligned and measured. Then the construction of the Tow Bar... I used Evergreen rod and tubes to sculpt the anchor nut... Then I had to sculpt the tow hook and detail all... Next I added the details for the anchor plate at the end of the tow box... and detailed the rest of the end. The tow hook stayed in place and look good... The tow box is finished and ready to be instaled... This little part took about three days to build...once I figured out the dimensions all went smoothly, just slow. Thanks all for looking I'l be back with more frame items, Rich
  37. 3 likes
    1/32 Me 262B-1a/U1 ‘Nightfighters of NJG11 EagleCals - Eagle Editions EC#170 Available from Eagle Editions for $22,50 This new release from Eagle Editions is designed to accompany, although not exclusively, the new Me 262B-1a/U1 kit from Revell, reviewed here. Of course, these will suit the earlier Trumpeter or Hasegawa kit, should you have them at all. A quick note to add here is that whilst this review looks at the 1/32 set, this specific release is also available in 1/48 and 1/72 scales, increasing your options considerably. Check out the Eagle Editions website for this and other Me 262 decal sets. This release is packaged into a re-sealable zip-lock sleeve that contains a single, folded instructions and scheme sheet, plus two decal sheets that are printed by Cartograf. The instructions are colour-printed and the front cover shows the port-side profiles for the THREE schemes in this set. The Me 262B was never a machine that was adorned with a variety of paint jobs. Many of them were very similar with RLM76 upper surfaces that were mottled with a combination of these various colours - RLM02, RLM75, RLM81, RLM82. The undersides were painted RLM22 black, as befitting night-fighter aircraft. Despite the limited variety of options, Eagle Editions has chosen three relatively different schemes from which to choose, including a captured machine that was flown by Watson’s Whizzers after first being surrendered to the British. The three schemes included here are: Me 262B-1a/U1 “Red 8”, W.Nr.110305, 10./NJG11 Me 262B-1a/U1, “Red 10”, W.Nr.110635, 10./NJG11 Me 262B-1a/U1, “Ole Fruit Cake”, W.Nr.110306, Watson’s Whizzers The last machine is quite interesting in its history, Originally operated by NJG.11 and previously identified as “Red 9” or “Red 6” (more than likely the former), this aircraft had a FuG 350Zc Naxos passive radar fitted in the rear cockpit, and the lower cannon barrels were extended. Please check references with this particular machine. The Luftwaffe surrendered this aircraft to the British as Scheswig in May 1945, where it was given the code FE-610. Applying the same scheme, this aircraft could always be modelled as it was in British hands, but you would need to sort the code yourself. Images of the this aircraft in British hands will provide you some important camouflage tips for completing this under American colours. Inside the instructions, the three profiles are given in more detail, specifically for decal placement, and decal options are given for the starboard “Red 10” where it is possible that a different style and proportional of number was applied. Another nice are the multiple W.Nr and numerical code decals that are printed slightly differently, with good to sloppy alignment, to reflect how these were applied at this late war stage. Opening the instruction sheet up fully, you are supplied with notes for each scheme, with details as to colour application, plus historical and reference notes. On the opposite page, line drawings are supplied to indicate stencil locations. The last page of the instructions contains colour illustrations for the upper and lower surfaces, with notes for decaling. These illustrations are perhaps a little less aesthetic that the side profiles, and should be used in conjunction with photographic material for when it comes to scheme application. TWO decals sheets are supplied, printed by Cartograf as I mentioned earlier. The first sheet contains the American markings and nose art, German codes and Werknummers, plus a full suite of stencils and various dashed walkway lines. This sheet is divided into sections for clarity so you know exactly what you need for a specific scheme. The second sheet contains the German national markings, including swastikas. The latter are printed in two parts to as not to offend the sensibilities of at least one European country. These have the centres separate to the main outline, so that the larger portion will easily allow you to correctly place the decal. Decal printing is excellent, with nice glossy, solid colour that has been thinly printed. Carrier film is minimal and registration is perfect. Of course, depending on scheme, it is possible to build more than one of these machines from this set, ignoring stencil use. Conclusion A hard subject to tackle for the best of researchers, this Me 262B-1a/U1 decal set does cover a number of bases when it comes to the extra options available for some of the decals, leaving the ultimate decision to the modeller, whilst offering a rationale for their inclusion. These schemes also represent probably the most variety in schemes for this aircraft, with one German machine with entire upper RLM76, and the other with splinter camo wings. Of course, the American option provides that unusual element to this set. Coming from Eagle Editions, you know that the research here will have been thorough. Highly recommended. My thanks to Eagle Editions for this review sample. To purchase directly, click HERE
  38. 3 likes
    1/48 Junkers Ju 88C-4 Special Hobby Kit # SH48177 Special Hobby for 49,70€ Without a doubt, the Junkers Ju 88 was one of the most versatile and adaptable aircraft to have been used during WW2. Entering service as the war was literally starting (on the day of the Polish attack), the Ju 88 became successful for its numerous famous and infamous roles, starting out as a light bomber/dive bomber, and when losses started to mount around the time of the Battle of Britain, it was moved into other theatres of war, such as North Africa, and against shipping in the Mediterranean with a torpedo-carrying variant. Where it is perhaps best known are for its roles as both a heavy fighter and night-fighter, in which it excelled. The C version, which is the subject of this kit, saw the glass nose replaced with a sheet metal unit, carrying a lethal punch of four fixed guns (1 x MG FF cannon, and 3 x MG17). This was the version which eventually morphed into the deadly Ju 88G, with its revised fin and night-fighting equipment, including spine mounted, upward firing guns and lack of the bola. Many of the C version machines were built from converted A-1 and A-4 airframes, and still retained the ability to also carry bombs. To deceive enemy fighters, a number of these heavy fighters had their noses painted to represent the glazed nose A variants. The kit ICM seem to be favourites for other companies to re-box at the moment, with this latest Special Hobby release also being of Ukrainian origin. ICM’s base kit was first released in 2015, as the A-5, with further subsequent ICM and Hasegawa boxings. However, this is the first time that we’ve seen a solid nose C version of this kit. This quirk is due to the majority of the kit being ICM, coupled with new injection-moulded and resin parts from Special Hobby themselves. So, if you want a recently new-tooled Ju 88 that is a night fighter, then this is one you may well opt to buy. This kit itself is packaged into a fairly large box with an atmospheric artwork of a black 88C at dusk, after an encounter with a Wellington. The lid is quite a tight fit, but when you get this off, the parts within are packaged into a single clear sleeve, with the clear sprue being separately packed. A cardboard shelf sits over one side of the inner box, with the decal sheet and resin parts securely fastened to it, as well as the brand new Special Hobby clear sprue. An A4 colour-printed instruction manual resides in the bottom of the box. As for the plastic itself, there are SEVEN sprues of light grey ICM plastic and one sprue of ICM clear plastic. This is alongside a single sprue of light grey Special Hobby plastic and one extra clear sprue from this company. There are also 24 extra parts, cast in dark grey resin. I know that some modellers can be driven to frustration by the engineering choices that some companies make, but with this kit, ICM has boxed clever. It is designed to accommodate other versions so as to maximise the tooling, but none of this is done to the disadvantage of the modeller. Some very intelligent design work can be seen here, such as the fuselage halves being full length, so no need to graft on different nose versions. The fin is also separate, indicating something from the 88G family, maybe. Wing root fairings are moulded to the fuselage and are tabbed, meaning that the upper wing panels can easily sit on these and provide a positive location point. Another touch of genius is a single piece lower fuse and inboard wing panel section. When this is fitted to the fuselage, and then the wing panels added, the lower seam will be totally hidden under the broad nacelle structure. The nacelles themselves will then locate into the undersides via tabs. If you’ve ever seen the Revell 1/32 kit, you’ll know that there is a sturdy structure within the nacelle that the undercarriage is mounted to. Looking at this model, I think that whilst you may need to fit that mounting structure prior to the nacelle, it appears that you can probably fit the landing gear later, after painting. All control surfaces on this model can be posed, with the rear of the nacelles being separate for this purpose. You may need to fiddle things with this, and I can’t comment further without test fitting this one. Two detailed Jumo211 engines are included in this kit, with the provision to display one/either of them. These really do look very good, with each unit containing around 15 parts per engine, including the firewall and associated plumbing. One scheme that has standard day splinter camo, will use the plastic kit parts for exhausts. For the other two night schemes, a set of resin exhaust flame dampers are included. It does appear that the rear of the resin flame dampers contains a block that represents the visible connection between the damper and the engine. So, all should be good in opening the cowls with these installed. Check your references. The engines must be installed within the nacelle before the whole assembly is offered to the wing. You’ll need to make sure your painting and masking regime is good here. Cowl radiator flaps are presented as open only, so to pose these in the more aesthetically pleasing closed position, you will need to do a little surgery. Propellers are supplied as single piece units, and the spinner comprises of the typical back-plate and front section. If you expect a lot from the cockpit area, in terms of detail, then this won’t disappoint. Whilst there is no specific Eduard sets for this release at the time of writing, some areas could still use some of the sets designed for the ICM release, but you must remember that this model has a number of cockpit changes. Thankfully, Special Hobby has included these as resin parts, so you don’t need to rush to order aftermarket, except for seatbelts, at least. The office area is very well-appointed, with nicely moulded fuselage sidewall details, accompanied by a choice of 2 differently equipped radio rear bulkheads, resin ammunition racks and drums (for the forward guns), resin instrument panel, side consoles with delicately rendered instruments, two-piece control column, rudder pedal assemblies, seats with intricate mounting points etc. The other resin parts within this area relate to the nose weapons pack, including another ammunition box, gunner seat and mount, and the gun unit itself. The latter is mostly made up from parts from the new Special Hobby conversion sprue, as is the solid nose and its firewall. When assembled the cockpit will most certainly be a very busy and visual area. The bola gondola is well-appointed too, with a number of resin parts helping to fit it out. This area is moulded separately to the underside fuselage, and can be fitted later in assembly. ***A quick note here…Special Hobby has incorrectly listed the original gondola parts on Sprue A to be used. This is WRONG! Special Hobby’s new sprue has the parts you SHOULD use. This is backed up on the parts plan at the beginning of the manual, but incorrect numbers are shown on assembly*** Surface detail is everything you would expect from a modern-tooled model, with finely engraved panel lines and port details. There are also no rivets at all, so if you do want them, then you’ll have to get out Rosie. Plastic quality here is excellent with no flaws or obtrusive ejector pin marks. Clear plastic parts, both ICM and Special Hobby, are superb, with excellent clarity and nicely defined frame details. Three options are provided for the rear canopy, with weapon’s placements, and you’ll need to make sure you use the new main canopy provided on the Special Hobby sprue, and not the original ICM part. The resin parts in this kit do more than simply provide the aforementioned conversion parts for the C-4. They also provide enhancements over general kit detail, such as nicely weighted wheels, new tailwheel and mudguard, replacement main gear doors with internal detail missing on kit parts. All parts are nicely cast in dark grey resin, with no flaws. Of course, you will need to remove casting blocks, but looking at these pieces, that won’t be too difficult a task for the average modeller. A Cartograf-printed decal sheet contains markings for THREE markings, with all printing being in solid, authentic colour, with minimal carrier film and also being both nice and thin. Registration is perfect too. As well as markings, a full suite of stencils are included as are instrument decals. The three schemes are: Ju 88C-4, R4+MK, W.Nr.0359, 2/NJG2, Glize-Rijen, May 1941 Ju 88C-4, R4+MT, 9/NJG2, Glize-Rijen, Summer 1942 Ju 88C-4, R4+DL, 3/NJG2, Catania, Sicily, May 1942 Conclusion It’s great to have a modern tool Ju 88C-4 that can now put the maligned Dragon versions out to pasture, plus the poorly-executed Hobbycraft release. This kit has everything; a great cockpit with resin details, two detailed engines and some nice sub-variant options such as the canopy parts. I can’t see anything here that would challenge your average modeller, and the price-point is also very attractive, with this kit retailing for around £45 in the UK (as of time of writing). If you have ever hankered to build the heavy fighter version of the Ju 88, then this blend of both ICM and Special Hobby parts should be high on your purchase list. Highly recommended My thanks to Special Hobby for this review sample. To purchase directly, click HERE
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    Apollo 11 Command Module at the NSAM/Udvar Hazy Mary Baker Restoration Hangar being prepared for its multi city US tour to acknowledge the 50th Anniversary of that little July 1969 event. After showing this to my kids they think I am a rock star. It's always good being the cool Dad in the neighborhood.
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    So! On with the wings. Rick was a great pal and headed over to the NASM to see what he could do for me. As you may know: I was struggling to find intel on the upper side of the wings in current state. Asked everyone. Including Jerry Crandall and Radu Brinzan. Seems little to no photo's were ever taken of them. Rick came far but couldn't get to the wings or find photo's in the NASM library. Asked people that are involved in the restoration, but alas... The only photo he could find turned out to be in the SWS Concept Notes. One Zoukei Mura minion climbed up a ladder and managed to squeeze one of! Sadly the wings are covered in dust: so bad you can't even see markings or camo. I'm trying to go for the really faded look and.. well.. here's a peek of where I'm at. Much more layers to follow. I did find one small B/W photo that shows the top wing balkenkreuz is the black and white kind. That helps.. Thanks Rick!! The Concept Note pic:
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    Here's the pic showing the navigator seat in place (in the shadows), the radio boxes have been fitted to a new bulkhead as the previous one was not wide enough and the panelling protecting the wiring looms on the startboard side have been fitted as well as the base for the flight engineers panels just above it. Interior is a mix of Manchester and Lancaster as details of it's older sister are difficult to find and as the early Lancasters were converted Manchester, well... you know what I mean.
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    I fancied a quick and easy project and seeing Spitfires overhead daily during the summer months (I'm under the approach to Biggin Hill) I didn't need much inspiration to dig this one out of the attic This model simply fell together and was an absolute joy - construction of the main airframe only took a few evenings and I only used a smidgen of filler at the wing to fuselage join. Decals were from EagleCal and I also added the MDC corrected spinner and oil cooler,to more accurately replicate a MkIIa. The model depicts P8088 of 118Sqn during April 1941. All paints were Xtracolour enamels finished with Humbrol Matt Varnish. I'm really looking forward to the MkIX that Revell are about to release to go with this one. All the best, Tom
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    Update with camouflage pattern on, I have decided to stick with rlm 74, 75 and 76 in various shades after watching this film clip many times. I do believe it's a g6 with tall tail. Here is the link to find the film, if anyone is interested. http://falkeeins.blogspot.co.uk/?m=1 Adding decals, filters and weathering. As you may guess I am ahead on this build and hope to finish up by this weekend... I am putting the final finishing touches to her..........
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    Anyone else hate adding rivets...? So it's on to the resin components. This is the Eduard engine crankcase, removed from it's casting block and with a couple of ancillary parts also added. Painted with an undercoat of Tamiya AS12 spray Silver, it looks very bright at the minute but this will be the base for an overcoat of half Tamiya acrylic Black paint and half Black watercolour pencil mix, which will hopefully buff off to show highlights of Silver underneath. Shown in the top photo is the equivalent Hasegawa part, and the difference in detail that the resin allows is pretty amazing. S
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    Well, bugger! i was half hoping everyone would say that it's crap, so I wouldn't have to get it... now I'm stuck! it absolutely won't be done in the same timeframe that the pieces arrive (other items in the stash are ahead in the queue). but.. Damn. It's the Millenium Freaking Falcon, in huge crawl-inside-the-thing-and-explore-it scale...! ok. Mrs Poet's eyes will roll back in her head - but she's a fan as well... I also have exactly the *perfect* spot, once it's done.
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    Wow, what an inspiring build and paintjob. It must be a lot of fun to think about the different layers of worn paint and stressed metal. I start to think about to change my started BF-109 E into something similar. I took some Photos of a BF-109 E7 which landed on a frozen lake after a fight with a Hurricane. The landing was perfect but the ice didn't hold and the Messerschmitt was taken out of the lake in 2003 and is now part of the Chino Planes of Fame Museum. So Maybe, maybe, maybeeeee, ...
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    Hello, the finished cockpit was installed in the hull and further details added. The seam between the two halfs was sanded a bit to get a smooth surface. The completely built engine was primered in black, then sprayed in Aluminium color from Vallejo's Metal Color series. Details were painted in black, beige and grey with a fine brush. A black weathering followed and some clear coat on the grey area. The engine was installed then ... The wings were put together and further parts installed... then glued to the hull and the seam sanded clean. Some etched parts followed next ... Next will be some light primer, then the painting of the wheel bays and the yellow band at the front ... Cheers Micha
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    Construction continues with the Ki-61.... Well, what can I say other than this kit really goes together beautifully, but you knew that already right. Here's a picture of the main wing assembly and with this shot it gives you a nice look at the wonderful surface detail on the kit. DSC_0327 by Peter Olsen, on Flickr The cockpit fits quite well into the fuselage and you can install it after gluing the two main fuselage halves together. I still have to weather the rear canopy sill to match the rest of the cockpit. DSC_0355 by Peter Olsen, on Flickr Please be aware that at this stage I have not cleaned up any of the seams yet and I've simply placed the upper engine cowl on the forward fuselage just for the pics. DSC_0339 by Peter Olsen, on Flickr DSC_0353 by Peter Olsen, on Flickr I really love the shape of the Ki-61, it's so aesthetically pleasing. DSC_0361 by Peter Olsen, on Flickr I've got a few more things to add to the building stage, then I'll clean up the seams and mask the canopies and I'll be ready for paint. Thanks for following, Cheers, Pete.
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    Hi Free! I would say my calling-out the Lurkers has been a succes! What a great start of that Corsair engine... You must have inherited some of your grandfather's skills... Also glad to see another Belgian builders up here. The dutch were almost beginning to take up the majority and that's never a good thing Good to have you here! Cheers, Jeroen