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Showing most liked content since 03/19/2017 in all areas

  1. 11 likes
    Hi all, I've just finished this build of the Trumpeter 1/32 Junkers Ju 87A 'Anton', in Spanish Civil War colours. This project preceded the Fw 189 I'm building, but this one was postponed a while due to waiting for masks and decals to be made. All national markings and serial are masked, with the spat emblem and stencils as decals. Model has the cowl corrected and a number of Eduard sets glued in there. All in all, a really nice model kit, not without accuracy issues. I've been in the modelling doldrums for a few projects now, so I needed something that would restore some faith in ability and drive me on to complete the Fw 189. This one will be in the next issue of Military Illustrated Modeller, published mid-April. I hope you like her.
  2. 9 likes
    Finished this one before June last year and was intended for the 1945 group build here but never made it. Great kit and goes together well. I used some of Barracudacast's resin bits including small wheel bulge inserts, exhausts, spinner, blades, main wheels and the little cowling vents. Also one of Roy's decal sheets as well. Thanks for looking Bevan
  3. 5 likes
  4. 5 likes
    Thanks! Almost done. Final bits and bobs. Drilled the holes in the canopy that were actually not holes but containers filled with silica squeezed between the double layered glass to prevent fogging. (You were right Cees ) I did not drill the holes all the way through, but halfway. This comes closest to looking like the real thing. Added latches to the nose cowling: Adding loose brake lines to the gear: (made them from lead wired, wrapped with thin strips of masking tape)
  5. 4 likes
    to read more, kindly visit our blog: http://www.specialhobby.info/2017/03/austrian-hungarian-and-german-weapons.html
  6. 4 likes
  7. 4 likes
    Hi Rob, I've done a couple of tests on left over transparent pieces. But just looking at the way it sits now keeps me from giving it a go... Adding panels now. Note the latches on the right cowling panel in the 2nd photo. That was a b*tch!
  8. 4 likes
    Now you tell me! Sprayed the "overpainted" US markings and the masks were really helpful to get a nice result. I will be using more of these I'm sure. Perhaps it is too clean as pics of Dutch B25's show the work was done very roughly but in scale it works better IMHO. Now to get the Dutch flags masked off using Tamiya tape. Cees
  9. 4 likes
    Hi all, still aiming for this weekend Finished.... 1st for 2017 for me. Thanks all for your comments. Here is where I'm up to.
  10. 4 likes
    The battle continues, and believe me, this has been a battle in places. My replacement boom arrived from HpH and allowed me to continue this bird. Again, the booms seams were sanded flat. A couple of spots where the resin dipped in a little required filling. As this would later be scribed along the joint, I opted to do this with epoxy glue instead of putty, as this would be more stable and less likely to break away under the scriber. Undercarriage bulkheads are now installed within the booms, ready for paint. There is a problem with the curvature of the wing panels and that that is cast onto the boom wing root fairings. On the outboard side, the wing root simply sits a little high and the joint needs sanding down to match the wing panels. However, on the inboard fairing, the wing profile of the inboard panel is almost FLAT!! As the fairing is curved and site far higher than the wing, this had to be significantly reduced to match the wing along the joint. Sounds bad, but only took about 30 mins to fix, prior to re-scribing lost details. This is where I am at the moment. As you can see, she's finally coming together. The upper fuse section is only temporarily sat in position here, and the model is only held together with tape, prior to the gear bays being painted. I'm not going to say the hard work is done, as the canopies need to be fitted, but I do feel like I'm getting somewhere now.
  11. 3 likes
    Hi all, My car-door Typhoon is now finished. As much as this kit can punish the senses, I really do like it very much. Watch out for it in the next reprint of the 'How to Build...' book from Doolittle Media:
  12. 3 likes
    The devil is in the detail. although I have been working on the p-40 almost every evening it looks like very little progress has been made. However, the tailwheel is on and the interior of the tailwheel doors and leather boot have been painted. The prop has been fitted with one of the nylon bushes provided in the kit and is removable. Very handy. Next stage is the washing/weathering process, although I don't want to make it look too filthy. The end is in sight.
  13. 3 likes
    Hello, this are some of the pictures I'll use as reference.
  14. 3 likes
    Hey Jeroen, why caring about the opinion of others, when you feel different about it? Maybe the Lady from the Lake has some suggestions about aged canopies. Cheers Rob
  15. 3 likes
    Hello, after the mounting of the upper wing I have added the pipework between engine and wing, then started the rigging. The turnbuckles are from Gaspatch Models and glued in drilled holes. Once dry I have glued EZ-Line through the turnbuckles, stretched it and glued it in place. Some adjustment of the turnbuckles will follow. Next I will add the landing gear and the propeller ... Cheers Micha
  16. 3 likes
    Hey All, I thought I would show how I have built the Tow Box. The Tow Box is the large anchor structure for the towhook. I don't know if it's called a Tow Box, I just pulled that out of my as . The parts were not to numerous, but a lot of detail in a small piece. Parts for the tow hook... Building the box... The anchor bolt for the tow hook goes all the way through the tow box and ends with a large nut to hold all secure. I first had to get all the parts aligned and measured. Then the construction of the Tow Bar... I used Evergreen rod and tubes to sculpt the anchor nut... Then I had to sculpt the tow hook and detail all... Next I added the details for the anchor plate at the end of the tow box... and detailed the rest of the end. The tow hook stayed in place and look good... The tow box is finished and ready to be instaled... This little part took about three days to build...once I figured out the dimensions all went smoothly, just slow. Thanks all for looking I'l be back with more frame items, Rich
  17. 2 likes
    Hey All, I have been cruising through here for a while now, looking at some of the fine builds. I was wondering if anybody would be interested in my 1/20 scale scratch built MAZ 537g. I think AFV builders might want to see what going on with this big build, altho not strictly AFV. I'll start posting as soon as I can figure out the photo deal if I get a little feedback. Thanks RichO
  18. 2 likes
    Hi Folks, At "Le Bourget", "Musée de l'Air et de l'Espace. (iPhone pics) Enjoy ! Best, laurent.
  19. 2 likes
    Wow... do me a favor and post a photo next to a beercan. The LSM way to give a good size indication. respect.
  20. 2 likes
    Hi Everybody, I have gotten to a nice finish point with the front suspension. I could do a bit more but I don't really need to right now. I had a bugger of a time getting everything to stay strait. After what seemed like months I can now move on to other things for a while. The front and back are at a good stopping point. I left off with just starting to try putting things together. Once I got all the little parts manufactured, it was time to assemble ... I felt like a sort of contortionist trying to get this together, but it seemed to fit reasonably well... Russian engineering... Two times... You know the drill... Time for some primer... I next have to add some color to the inside of the frame where I can't get to later. I'll be back with some inside coloring... Thanks for looking.
  21. 2 likes
    Hey guys, sorry for being offline for a while, we are preparing the forum to be served via SSL so some changes are needed what resulted in DNS-trouble. This "might" happen again today so don't get mad at me/us/soemone .. hehe. cheers, Dirk
  22. 2 likes
  23. 2 likes
    I have the components worked out for the rear suspension. I built the axle pass through collar. This is close to the production shape, and fits with the other components... The major parts for the rear suspension... first version of these components, I built the version that was supplied with the paper kit by Model-Kom. See below... You can see how the mounting rings for the wheel axles, are just rings with no detail. I rebuilt the mounting hub with the back ring detailed with the form curve that it has in the photos... Fit to the frame (somewhat)... Now that I have these worked out, I will clean and primmer, then I can cast the four copies for the whole rear end. I need to cast eight of the axle pass through collars tho. I'll be back with the casting next time. Thanks for looking.
  24. 2 likes
    Hello, here she is - the "Dottie Mae" called Republic P-47D Thunderbolt in 1/32 scale by Eduard. The kit is consisting of the plastic parts of the Hasegawa kit, plus Eduard Resin parts for the wheels, photo etched parts, masks and decals for three versions of the kit incl. a lot of stencils. The cockpit was made with the resin parts from Quickboost, the gun barrels are from Master Models. Painted with Tamiya's Aluminium, then sprayed each panel in variations of Vallejo's Metal Color series and clear coat. The interior is painted with colors from Lifecolor. Hope that you like the Dottie. Cheers. Micha
  25. 2 likes
    Hello, I have added some more parts and details on the lower part of the hull... the area around the engine is nearly finished ... For the illimination of the engine I have used the kits part (a box light part which is mounted behind the grille). I have removed the back of the boxand painted the rest in black. Then I have glued the clear resin parts at the backside of the frame (rest of the "box"). The box I have extended on the backside with plastic sheed about 1cm, parallel to the backside of the box. Then I have glued the blue LED-stripe on a plastic stripe in the high of the box. painted this and the extension in silver. The stripe with the LEDs Ihave glued on the backside of the box as back panel. I have used Tape to fix the back wall better and to close all remaining gaps. Then I have glued Aluminium foil with super glue all around the new "lightbox", the wires leaving the box on the side and will go through the hull later. That's how it looks like ... I think that this is ok ... I like it Cheers Micha
  26. 2 likes
    Into some AM ... Brian Fawcetts correction set for the Trumpeter Ju.87B ... Rog
  27. 2 likes
    Hello, The separately mounted assemblys were primered in black next. After that a glazing layer of Lifecolor's British Interior Green was sprayed on everything, keeping the black shining through as a kind of shadow. The green received some highlights and shadows with base color mixed with dark brown, and base color mixed with beige. After that all the small details were painted with a fine brush in its different colors... The displays were all added next. These were wonderful colored etched parts from Eduard, also the switches, levers, etc. Also some first decals were added now. A layer of matt clear coat on everyhing followed nedt to give the etched parts the same look as the painted ones. The matt surface received some shiny clear coat sprayed in a cloudy way on everything to give it a light shiny optic. Dark brown oil color washing over everything followed next and gave the parts a used optic. Black washing around the details accented these a bit more. All the displays received some dots of Micro Crystal Klear next to simulate the glass of the displays. Next follow the seats and the seat belts made of HGW's fabric and etched parts.... lot of small parts... The first of the two Rolls-Royce Merlin engines was built parallel. It is highly detailed and constsis of a lot of small and smalles, super detailed plastic parts. I love this engine! Tamiya also provides some etched parts for it, two further etched parts from Eduard immitate the wiring. More additional parts is not necessary.... Cheers Micha
  28. 2 likes
    Too kind Mike, too kind! I get a lot of inspiration from my mate Ralph Riese.
  29. 2 likes
    That folks, is how you do it and why Bevan is one of the top Luftwaffe modelers out there!
  30. 2 likes
    All done... http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/5063-revell-bf-109-g6-erich-hartmann/?do=findComment&comment=64760
  31. 2 likes
    So the first step happened... boxes opened and inventoried. the base kit is about 40% resin - all interior parts, control surfaces, engines, cowlings, floats and so forth. to this I'm adding the G21B conversion kit. This replaces the cockpit in its entirety and includes the external components that convert the airframe from amphibian to pure seaplane, along with other G21B specific details such as gun mounts. And beaching gear. i will start mapping the build process this coming weekend. It may be a couple weeks before I bring out the paint and cutters - I want to have a clear view of the build first. the quality of the resin components in both kits is superb - I haven't found anything but the tiniest of casting flaws and the detail is crystal clear. I'm truly looking forward to this.
  32. 1 like
    I am liking that canopy, looks so much better than the kit part. A lot of work gone into that. Also liking your detailed WIP. Well done.
  33. 1 like
    So gentleman, I spent way to much time on a really small detail but, i finally got something to show. How many canopy's a man has to make before he's got a good one? This is how i went about, first scribe the lines on a piece of litho Drill, punch, cut, ... And after some filing, then roll it on a soft surface to make the arc, rinse and repeat for the inside, make some small fittings, glue it all together with a fine piece of celluliod inbetween, paint it and voila, It's far from perfect, but will do just fine in replacing the original canopy that i destroyed. btw, i choose to have 'dirty' windows with dust in the corners and scuff's it just didn't look right with pristeen windows. This is the best i can do with my current skillset, but lets not forget, it's really small and macro photo's take no prisoners.... @JeroenPeters sorry no beercan Next to the sorry looking original And it fits the airframe, it rides a bit high in the pictures but i didn't push it down enough, i was trying not to damage the tiny rear view mirror that i spent 3!!! hours fitting. my impromtu photo studio I miss matched the alignment of the numbers, because i want it to look like it's been replaced, notice the slightly different color. I still need to clean the spill from the setting solution then for some wheatering. That's it for now, i am gonne rest up a bit and then (finally) on to the fuselage grtz free
  34. 1 like
    Thank you for the responses, Gentleman. My name is Jack Müller, and I am an American of Scot (clan Agnew) & German extraction. I fancy myself as a perpetual political & military Science student, because learning is never concluded. I view Cardinal Richelieu the cleverest of history's diplomats, Henry V my personal hero, and a toss up between Cromwell and Pitt the elder, as the best thing that ever happened to the Mother Country. I am quite ancient, and have been scratch building since childhood, and I build exclusively in traditional 1/32 scale. In answer to the Crane inquiry: Yes, this is one of 17 cranes employed at the port of Zeebrügge during the Great War. All were electrically powered excepting a 10 ton steam crane on the mainland. My example is one of six 2.5 ton cranes in service there. Four of these cranes served on the Mole and were modified when the Germans added the extended boom under the jib. This was to provide additional clearance over the edge of the quay for lowering and retrieving aircraft from the inner mole. I might add, I am surprised no one has commented on the rail car beneath the crane.
  35. 1 like
    If I had a formula, I'd sell it. I think the only reason I can do this is because I've actually managed the impossible (for me), and that's to become disciplined. 4 to 5 years of mag work has turned me from a 1 model/year guy into a production line. That spare time you spend between tasks is jammed with infill for other stuff. I don't even notice it these days.
  36. 1 like
    That would make a very nice diorama. But was this type of crane really used to hoist aircraft out if the water? Thanks for posting you photo's of a great model. Would you like to introduce yourself first and share the process of developing the model with us? Cheers Cees
  37. 1 like
    Geezz you really a challenge regarding your scratchbuild work. I love it how you break down these complex shapes into the simple basics. Very inspiring. Cheers Cees
  38. 1 like
    Brilliant concept Jeroen, Executed with precision, care and love. Many thanks. Regards,
  39. 1 like
    Nice! Thnx for sharing! Will come in handy when i start mine
  40. 1 like
    I had some issues with the Weta guys but fortunately Sprue Brothers came to the rescue.
  41. 1 like
    Do it the way you like it Mark. rivets or not like you said........after all it's personal favor. I'm really curious how you gonna tackle this kit mate.....succes. Greetz Danny
  42. 1 like
    I'll third that. Tedious but worth it.
  43. 1 like
    I'm going to cheat a bit with the beginning of this build - since I have two complete resin cockpits (one from the base kit and one from the conversion) I'm going to use the spare to do an update of my resin painting skills. It's a rare thing to have that kind of opportunity so I'll take full advantage. i've focused so much on the wood and metal side of things for the last while that I need a refresher course! Well, that and I'll be using some paints that I'm not familiar with... so watch over my shoulder as I fumble through and scratch my head in public
  44. 1 like
    Thanks Jeroen, this time I do plan to put wings on the three planes... So, I decided to scratch some early british Sutton Harness seatbelts, I do not know if it's correct but maybe they would have been in use late 1918? Using tape, sheet styrene and lead wire for the seatbelts... Also reworked the control colums...
  45. 1 like
    It's crazed really badly. Get some 600 grit on it. I sat in it and closed it. The windscreen is better, yellowed w delamination evident. You cannot go by the pics on it.
  46. 1 like
    Nice.. Looking forward to see it after the AK wash!
  47. 1 like
    wow, thats is quite a model. I really like the approach . you always have been one of my favorite modeler.
  48. 1 like
    One side note to this... so far as I've been able to determine, only 12 of the G21B model were ever produced, all for the Portuguese Navy. That Signifer took this on as a conversion kit is truly impressive
  49. 1 like
    Small progress! I did some more on scratching the jig. Trying to guess measurements from the photo's I've got and it's getting there. Pretty sturdy contraption. Also: The3d printed wheels arrived. Really crisp and hardy any 3d printing patterns to discover on the surface. I need 5 in total. 4 for th main jig and one for the small jig holding the tailwheel-fork.
  50. 1 like
    Here we have a build log of Mirror Models fairly new Diamond T Wrecker. There has been a lot said about this kit on various websites, complaining about issues such as difficult part identification and large sprue connectors, well, lets see just how much of a real problem these issues are?? I'll start by saying every part is identified by its part number and letter, yes, the numerals are small, but hey, we're into detailed scale modelling here? We must also consider the parts are put together by their relative assembly, for example the whole of sprue K is dedicated to the compressor. All the chassis x members are together in the correct order, same goes for the front winch. I mentioned this in my review, and now I've started the kit I can say the large gates are no problem whatsoever. The plastic is a joy to work with, it's not too hard or too soft and is very "durable". Even the thinnest of parts is easily cleaned up as it will flex rather than crack or snap. Tamiya Extra thin is the glue of choice for the kit, some glues don't work well at all. Remember, those large gates mean no ejector pin marks!!! (Except for the underside of the wrecker bed) You may have seen my review and thought to yourself, "That's a nice kit", but you may have also considered that these kits from the smaller companies are not up to scratch, with many fit issues and difficulties in building. Well, lets see about that?? I'll start with step one in the instructions.... wheel assembly. I hit a small problem straight away!! When assembling the wheel halves I noticed a gap in the wheel rim joint. I could have easily clamped the joint shut, but didn't want to risk the joint cracking later on. I cut some 19mm squares of 15 thou card and glued them to the outer wheel halves, then cut the bore out once dry. After gluing together a simple sanding will clean everything up, remembering that only the four outer rear rims will be visible anyway. You can see the plastic card inserts on the two top right wheels. Mirror models actually market a nice set of resin wheels if you want to avoid this little bit of extra work. On the subject of extras, there are also a PE set and soft top available, which I've ordered. I'll review them when they arrive. I wanted to show the lovely detail on the wheel hubs, and also how good the rear wheels look sat on them. to me these wheels just look "right". What do you think? I have started on the engine block and axles, here's where I am right now... The front axle is built up just like the real thing, with the hubs mounted on swivels, (Obviously there's no kingpins, but the ball is there). Only trouble is, the tie rod is designed to be glued into position, which would fix the hubs in one position, so I decided to drill the tie rod and hubs with a 0.5mm drill and pin the joint with brass rod. Now we have position-able wheels. I don't want to play with the truck, but I want the choice of angle to display the model. The detail on the brake backplates is astounding. The rear axles an their differentials are also multi piece assemblies, The detail is stunning in every area of the suspension. One part of this kit I really wanted to build was the Kellogg Compressor, which will be mounted behind the cab. It is a lovely little model in itself, built up from no less than 21 parts!! To show you just how small this compressor is, here it is on a bottle top... I have ordered the squadron walk around book so I can add some hoses and stuff to the model. the detail is so amazing in my opinion it would be a shame not to add at least a couple of flexi brake hoses. Thanks for looking.