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nmayhew

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Posts posted by nmayhew

  1. Apologies if I have missed the obvious, but the review fails to mention perhaps the crucial differences that this release has compared to the original G??

    If I am not mistaken, this kit allows one to model - to use a non-technical term - an “early G” yes? 

    In other words, whilst it has the chin turret, it has the early tail gunner position and - crucially - waist gunner windows which are in line and not staggered as in later models.

    So for the first time, you can model “A Bit O’ Lace” right??

    I have not reviewed the sprues, nor am I a B-17 expert, so would appreciate those more knowledgeable than myself confirming / refuting the above.

    Cheers

    Nick

    • Thanks 2
  2. This is on my bench right now, but shortly to be leaving it as it’s basically done. I’ll try to get some better shots in the near future.

    Needs small mat coat around insulators on aerial wires and where the wire meets the fuselage but otherwise I’m f*cking done with this! 
     

    after building one (my first) Trumpeter kit my thoughts are a) I will be building the Revell one as my next early G, and not sure I will build another Trumpy 109 and b) *this* is why you build Tamiya!! (And Kotare)

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    • Like 9
    • Thanks 1
  3. Hey guys

    thanks for the kind words 

    I think I have done some how to’s on here in WIP for my P-40 (search ‘Neville Duke’ and I’m sure it will come up)

    but very quickly …

    firstly and most importantly there’s no voodoo - you just need to be willing to give stuff a go, and not let yourself be convinced “I prefer my models with that clean look” when really it’s because you are a bit scared - I know because I was that person for years lol

    primed with MFS1500 Black; all paints are MRP; I use spatter templates where surfaces are flat enough and if fiddly compound curves will airbrush lots of little mottle randomly in various colours to build up depth; check Doogs Models YouTube for Blackbasing technique if you are not familiar 

    oils should go on full or semi matt; if on gloss you’ll just be pushing them round and it will be a mess

    i don’t use oil dot technique; afaik that’s just random dots of random colour; I try to think about what weathering will occur and where.

    I don’t use pin wash - certainly not as slather it all over in every panel line etc and wipe off excess approach; that’s a bit clumsy and just makes things look even more like a model in my view; some do like the look, but it’s not for me.

    Check out Mike Rinaldi on YouTube - his short technique vids, not the 3hr live streams - too much waffle on those - he is THE MASTER and originator of OPR afaik

    for armour, check John Spud Murphy on Facebook - lots of great guys but he has lots of simple mini bits of how to and technique

    anyway…

    oils are on cardboard but I do dive straight in; I have Sansodor in a small palette by side; you can get away with just a few brushes - a couple of smallish ones (but can be a 2), just with a nice point, and maybe a bigger filbert type 

    oils on cardboard are kept in a tin - fridge them ideally - and they will keep for a week plus; dab some Sansodor on them to revive if they start to get too dry 

    work light to dark colours 

    tiny amount of thinner and dab into oil paint (here I differ from MR - follow him not me, but since people asked…), take most of paint off on paper towel; apply to model; then with clean brush with a tiny TINY amount of thinner, work the oil to where you want and blend; then with bigger fry brush continue the blend; then if you want multiple colours over same area, USE HAIR DRIER  - just cheap sh*t travel one - quick blow and then good to go again

    for a more industrial strength protection I spray MRP clear which dries in seconds and then can go at same area with any aggression necessary 

    for spatter I will use Mac valve and maybe brush flick - have yet to get round to that

    hope this is of use; happy Sunday

     

     

    • Like 4
    • Thanks 2
  4. Thanks Gazza!

    On reflection i am with you on there not being a third colour on the spinner.

    As to the RLM70 / Russian paint thing - that does indeed sound eminently plausible; at least some of the JG54 birds show a dark colour that really is very dark indeed.

    Progress is currently paused whilst i order new wheels - the ResKit early Gs were lovely but a pain to remove the resin from inside the tyre - on the last chunk of the second wheel i goofed and sliced the tyre...instantly f*cked.

    I am ordering a second set, and also the Eduard set which i think are single resin piece, so no ballsing around matching hubs to tyres; I swear the next aircraft build i do i am doing the wheels first, just to get that sh*t over and done with.

    • Like 3
  5. Obviously I haven't done any kind of WIP but here is where we are so far...

    image.thumb.jpeg.681ce192d755ca743447518add99da34.jpeg

     

    This is my first Trumpeter 109 but I have built the Trumpy P-47 (Bubbletop) before. The 109 has far more finesse generally in the parts; the rivet detail will be too much for some, but for the most part it is pretty sharp.

    I will pose the canopy closed, but probably keep it loose (my preferred MO) so you can remove it and peek inside; cockpit was standard with just a couple of wire added, and HGW belts added.

    Construction notes: 

    - the cockpit is not glued to the fuselage; it was glued per instructions to the engine bearers and firewall, but then just layed in and fuselage closed up

    - fuselage goes together well overall, but filler needed underneath where it meets the wing section; fille used throughout was AK Black Widow (a black CA) with accelerator then sprayed on; it's instantly sandable, and has really helped me speed things along

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    - also used this technique for the cowling panel just ahead of cockpit which in reality has no panel line

    - i tried to do all filling and sanding and rescribing of rivets in discrete sections such that i would not destroy adjacent detail; wing roots were actually a very good join, but a panel line needed removing at front which was challenging but doable; note i did not attach the cowling pieces until this process was complete

    - exhausts: these will be woefully recessed if you use them as part of the provided engine assembly; I used aftermarket ones glued from the inside; looked like a hatchet job, and they are very much eye balled in terms of location but the result is good enough for this kit

    - cowling MG troughs are wrong; you can't fix these so you either try to use say an AIMS cowling part from G-2 or G-4 conversion meant for the Revell G-6 (I know, I know), or just make your peace; i chose the latter

    - fuselage was closed up and then wings were attached - I had per instructions glued top and bottom together first and then glued the whole thing to the fuselage, but only after quite a bit of dry fitting; lower section was glued to fuselage, then wing root join glued second

    - the dihedral needed some attention due to this method of construction - this was the one bit I did not enjoy; what you see below was repeated for each side, with the clamp pullling the wing root tight, then TET QS used; to my relief little / no sanding required after this

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    - MGs are Aber or Master (I forget) stubs, just glued into the cowl pieces; i did not construct the full gun deck bits as provided

    - the cowls were ok, but required a small shim on one side - again this is because i chose to instal these last (pick your battles etc)

    - spinner and blades: using Barracuda; it is very slightly too large, but i am going with it; the Trumpy kit fits like a glove, but is just the wrong shape for me

    So that's where we are now...

    Next up is landing gear and the lovely Reskit early G wheels; main seat belts (which could only be installed once cockpit tub was installed and mated with the rear bulkhead - no big deal); then get the canopy masked and on

    Will try to provide a few more updates but overall this is better in terms of fit and finesse than Revell's MkII Spitfire (low bar I know),if that helps you trying to decide whether this or the Revell G-2.

    PS I used Quickboost rudder as well - needed some sanding and persuading to match the airframe, but a definite improvement

    • Like 1
  6. 59 minutes ago, Bomber_County said:

    I have the Kagero 109 book somewhere, I’ll look it if you want and see if there anything in there?

    don't go to too much trouble... I have the LuGa JG54 book, and a fair bit of 109 stuff in my library

    i guess main areas of focus are trying to complete the camouflage and markings (for either bird) given they are incomplete views

    but yes, any help gratefully received

    i feel like i have another week of clean up before i can start looking at camo patterns in anger!

    • Like 2
  7. hi guys,

    i am approaching the paint stage on Trumpy's early Gustav which I am building as a G-2 from JG54 and would like some thoughts and advice on colours, or at least your best guess / interpretation thereof...

    i am split between Yellow 3 and Yellow 6

    Yellow 3

    airframe points to note

    - def a Gustav and not a Friedrich (location of fuel port, different canopy frame etc)

    - not a Trop variant (no holders for sunshade)

    - not a G-4: no small bulges on wings; tyres therefore 150x660 ie dimensions same as Emil, but the spoke design on hub was heavier / lacked lightening holes 

    - absence of ventilation airscoop just under windscreen side panel?

     

    colours / markings points to note

    - non factory standard 2 tone green scheme: my take is RLM70 and a n other light green

    - rear canopy frame: in same colour as the lighter green, or badly colourised but actually in RLM 75? I have a pic which clearly shows wing walk lines were not overpainted and left in either RLM74 or RLM75, so maybe this was also too fiddly to paint??

    - fuselage cross lacks black outline

    - wing cross - does this have the black outline or not?

    - spinner: white and black segmentation is clear, but is there a third colour on the front most section? I have seen these in red on other JG54 machines, so this is plausible.

     

    unsure if this is colourised as i have seen a few versions knocking around

    Messerschmitt-Bf-109G2-9.JG54-Yellow-3-W

     

    the other photo which i think is the same airframe - the diagonal camo line running back from the cowling is match, and i can see no positive differences

    1SchillingJG54.jpg

     

     

    and now Yellow 6

    airframe points to note

    - def a Gustav and not a Friedrich (location of fuel port - triangle just visible behind number 6, different canopy frame etc)

    - not a Trop variant (no holders for sunshade)

    - likely a G-2: tyre data warning on wing leading edge shows 150x660 (i have seen close ups of different airframes that show this as 669?) 

    - absence of ventilation airscoop just under windscreen side panel?

     

    colours / markings points to note

    - non factory standard 3 tone green scheme: my take is RLM70, a n other light green; it's the third colour that is bugging me... I am torn between something like RLM02 and some sort of tan colour 

    - I am presuming this is Yellow 6 + ~

    - spinner: white and black 

    - cowling, just behind spinner: the repaint stops, and shows RLM76 before we get to the RLM04 underneath

    - RLM04 painted around RLM76 to keep stencil warning above radiator 

    - underwing wing cross lacks black outline

    - yellow wingtips underneath

    - white wall on tail wheel

    - swastika is white outline only (I can't recall whether that is standard for this timeframe)

     

     

    Messerschmitt-Bf-109G2-9.JG54-Krasnogvar

     

    the below image is from Luftwaffe im Focus magazine - this particular grab is from the net, shown only for the purposes of research / discussion

    52885313757_02323c98b4_o.png

     

     

    hopefully there is enough to peak some interest here,

    any thoughts and observations would be most welcome!

    Nick 

    • Like 1
  8. Sprue goo is a definite thing - not particularly new mind, but probably not found much in the old school / I’ve done it this way and see no reason to change circles…

    the idea is that, especially for sanding and scribing, you are filling any gaps with ‘like for like’, which means that sanding is much more even, scribing more predictable etc.

    for the gap filling itself, it should shrink much *much* less than any lacquer based fillers.

    things to watch are

    - using it before it has ‘settled’ / all the bubbles have gone

    - using plastic which does not match the model (we all know different manufacturers use different plastic, some we like, some we don’t etc)

    - using Evergreen plastic for sprue goo - just don’t, it’s shit

    -

    suggestion: purest styrene is clear, so use sprues from clear parts, and just add a dash of say red lacquer paint so you can easily see it.

     

    as to CA, some of the black ones are much more friendly to sand as they have some sort of rubber compound added making them more flexible; and of course it’s a pretty much instant solution.

    all in all, I’m not sure there is one filler for every use / every requirement

     

    hth

    • Like 5
    • Thanks 2
  9. My Great Uncle served on these and for a year or two he came to live with my Nan and I when I would have been about 10 or so (we're talking ~1982). I remember he had *lots* of war stories which I would listen to with eyes wide, mouth open amazement; he also had a large box of medals, but sadly like so much I didn't record our conversations (never thought to) and now it has disappeared in the mists of time. My Mother bought me this kit on release (the first one I had asked for as an adult) and to my shame it still resides in my stash - my guilt accentuated because she died a few years ago before I got round to building it...Anyway, enough of my reminiscing... I'll be following this closely! 

    Which boat will you be doing? I have a few references and researched them quite a bit some years back but I confess I've forgotten it all now and would be starting from scratch. Despite that, seeing this build has prompted me to resolve this will be one of my next builds.

    Wishing you smooth progress with the kit and a Happy New Year.

    Nick

    • Like 6
    • Thanks 1
  10. On 12/13/2022 at 8:35 AM, DocRob said:

    Thanks Peter, it might look a bit too harsh now, but that will be blended with washes and further weathering. The good thing with masking is, you can weather through the walkways, insignia and stencils. That's more difficult with decals.

    Cheers Rob

    Looking good!

    i don't think it looks harsh at all, but if it's not too late i do think you need quite a bit more closer to wing root and further forward; this is both relative to what you have further back and on the flaps, but also just generally from what i have seen in pics - these machines got beat to sh*t

     

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 1
  11. 10 hours ago, DocRob said:

    Very nice Nick, I love the finish, it looks very 'metallic' as it should. Extra detailing makes your Mustang stand out. Have you used pre cut masks for the wheel wells? I only ask, because I have ordered two sets of masks from Miryoku for mine.

    Cheers Rob

    Hi Rob,

    no they were masked by hand - bit fiddly but it’s essentially just straight lines.

    from memory I think I sprayed it aluminium or something like that, then masked and sprayed the zinc chromate etc; I could have done more weathering there but in the end I think it was just a bit of an oil wash straight onto the paint 

    37 minutes ago, GusMac said:

    Great result Nick. Just wondered if you used the oils for the panel lines as well or if you used an enamel based product? Also did you seal the NMF before the weathering?

    I'm attempting my first proper NMF at the moment and looking for all hints I can get. Thanks

    Hi,

    yes oils all the way

    i have spent so much on enamel products over the years and the vast majority of it was money down the drain: not because the products are bad - I think oils are just better all round, but that doesn’t mean you can’t get good / great results with enamel stuff - but rather the containers they all came in. Unless you are literally churning out models every week, this stuff will just sit there and evaporate because the bottles that Mig, Ammo, AK all that crowd etc are just crap plastic and not fit for purpose. The products that I did keep have all been decanted into medical glass bottles - think old MRP bottles but a bit stubbier - with a few ball bearings in them. But to reiterate, none were used here and they are just sat on the shelf gathering dust.

    anyway, to the panel lines… I tend to be very careful with pin wash in panel lines: they tend to make things look more like a model and less like the real thing in my view, so I only add them in particular areas where I want a specific weathering effect.

    in 1/32 scale the kit is large enough that much of the panel line detail can stand on its own two feet in my view; all my recent builds have followed this approach (check my P-40).

    oils were usually applied over a satin / semi-gloss type finish, but you can do it over matte as well; over gloss you tend to just push them round on the surface and you struggle to get any ‘bite’ (pin wash aside).

    hope this helps. 
     

    happy modelling

    Nick

    • Like 5
  12. sorry for the lack of updates, but my Skyczar is now pretty much finished.
     
    I need to add back on the small lever I snapped off on the left side of the cockpit, and maybe add some darker oils to the base of the exhausts, we’ll see.
     
    so, to summarise, 1/32 Tamiya kit...
    Barracuda wheels, battery / radio stuff and cockpit placards; Eduard bombs; HGW seatbelts and external placards; Lifelike decals for the cowling markings either side, Montex for everything else.
    MFS1500 primer, MRP paints, extensive use of spatter template. Weathered with oils. Wings filled with MS500.
    This bird was based down the road from me so I feel quite a connection to it.
    Pleased with the overall look.
     
    Things I quite like…
    - getting a non-uniform NMF finish, mainly by using spatter templates
    - very pleased with the top side dirt on wings; I know it could be ‘more’ but if I can replicate this in future builds personally I’ll be happy
    - a first: using Mac valve for first time to make tiny spatter / dirt marks
    - another first: painting wings and fuselage as completely separate assemblies
    - landing gear that screws in and is automatically in perfect alignment - in a flash the scariest part of any aircraft build was eliminated!
    - Barracuda wheels that fit the kit perfectly (they are finger tightened on their, not even glued)
    - how the weathering on the sides of wheels turned out
    - HGW belts and stencils (as always)
    - Tamiya Uber kits really do go together properly!
     
    Things I don’t like / could have done better…
    - overall NMF is too dark
    - I forgot to use spatter templates / blackbase the markings and stripes, so they look a bit meh / bland
    - filling the wings - I will try sanding the arse out of the wings first next time, and then use putty for panel lines, see where I get to, and then think about hitting it all with some MS1000 etc
    - being left with the removable panels which cover the landing gear - my construction choice because of the stripes etc
    - spending hours on cockpit nonsense that you just cannot see (won’t be doing that again)
    - Barracuda wiring cover (in beige / buff) fouls the canopy arch brace - come on Barracuda you should do better
    - Eduard bomb stripe decals do not fit very well - ffs make them longer / provide more spares so you can overlap them, or don’t have so much carrier film
    - wheel well wiring; my attempts to busy it up were pretty crap but hey hoC480DC25-AD04-4911-8BA9-21531252EF91_1_105_c.thumb.jpeg.db6ce7535ed3f38bc2a2550ea687e47f.jpeg
     
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    • Like 6
  13. For those interested in very even handed professionally done takes on these things, check out Juan Brown’s YouTube channel ‘Blancolirio’.

    I think I’ve touted him before on here but he’s ex US military- first fighter pilot, then heavy transport, and currently an airline pilot. 
     

    he’s very good at explaining things to ‘non-flyers’, but if you know your stuff you’ll also realise he does too I think. 
     

    anyway, he always follows up on crashes so you’ll get his take on the initial NTSB report, as well as their final one (which may be years away).

    here’s his initial take on things - he shows that the P-63 likely never saw the B-17, but starts to go into potentially how things got into that position in the first place (which I guess is really the nub of things).

    worth a watch

    YouTube link to the vid

    • Like 2
  14. 4 hours ago, DocRob said:

    Your Mustang is coming together very nice, the paintjob is ultra-smooth on the detail shots. I use Pledge for clear parts often and it enhances the clarity by far. I try to minimize the masking period as short as possible and had bad results with liquid masks, which I don't use on canopy parts anymore.
    Wasn't there a seam on the canopy anyway? If, there is, there is no way around removing it and polish the whole thing.

    Cheers Rob

    Correct, there is a seam on the canopy. It’s one of the few true goofs by Tamiya in the kit.

    But whilst  it’s daunting taking a scalpel blade to your “precious” (well actually not *that* precious - you have 2 spares, albeit of a slightly different design) and then sanding it, it’s actually pretty easy. There are many product combos that will do the job - I used Tamiya 3 step compounds and cloths here I think, but I also have Novus in the stash as well.

    we’ll agree to disagree on the floor stuff - I think the scope for f*cking up the dip and dry, and getting ‘antique glass slide’, outweighs its potential usefulness, especially when (imo) a good hand polish will always be better than a floor polish (feel free to snigger at any double entendres!!).

    Anyway, thanks for hanging in there with me, and sorry it’s dragging on somewhat!

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 1
  15. ok here's a short recap of the oils...

    the colours used on the exhausts were oxide patina, then faded dark yellow, then faded white

    the others were used on some light weathering of the canopy which i forgot to photograph

    1790704A-CAEA-4EAE-AC5C-BFE887E9CD00_1_105_c.thumb.jpeg.5d60bac3bf1be9b82ebbacec10a0a40b.jpeg

    the oils live in this tin which keeps them alive for a good few days if you ever want to go back / don't have time to do everything in one go (my Wife is Czech if you are wondering why I have a Czech wafer tin!)

    ACBB0AC0-C0CF-48CE-AF7D-7A4365CA44F2_1_105_c.thumb.jpeg.334b9071bc29c16da5610ebec7d95608.jpeg

     

     

    so first colour...looks good in the pics, but maybe only appropriate at this stage as a tank exhaust; not the ones with the sharpie mark on the sprue will be the first exhausts on each side, and these will not get any faded white

    88C5D817-8D3E-412E-A68E-168FAE596B4B_1_105_c.thumb.jpeg.5e9fb03dd4dd2afbda121156cce50d43.jpeg

    next colour, the faded dark yellow

    3ABA7912-D22A-4F6D-B483-A458F5591A63_1_105_c.thumb.jpeg.045bdea58d859381cf09a465e17d1871.jpeg

    and finally the faded white - i think will glue them on now and then see how they look in situ; they are reasonably accessible so that shouldn't be too difficult

    88BF719B-E588-4130-90D4-A17EB44006EF_1_105_c.thumb.jpeg.05d076208f17803063a43d2ef7e05e38.jpeg

    • Like 7
  16. 11 hours ago, GazzaS said:

    Lovely clear and shiny canopy.  I have given up on closed up aircraft.  It just happens too often that some bit of flotsam detaches itself from some hidden corner and adheres itself to my hitherto clear parts. 

    clear parts are just polished btw - none of this dipping in floor product malarky, which is just not necessary (I speak as a previous worshipper at the Church of Floor Polish lol)

    • Like 3
  17. Not a huge amount of progress I’m afraid

    unmasked the canopy - here you can see the slightly intricate masking to keep overspray (‘underspray’?) from entering the cockpit

    0B766250-EED4-4733-AD54-D25EE76CACD1.thumb.jpeg.dab7c74295dd7e99a55feede49889746.jpeg

    i use toothpicks or cocktail sticks to lift up masking off clear parts - a small slip or scuff won’t damage anything, but if you use tweezers etc you are unnecessarily rolling the dice imo

    3090B670-B186-4ACF-8A97-E28DC3F882EF.thumb.jpeg.e74a2f17424fac2c3ddaf2d1416c67be.jpeg

    I’ll do cockpit pics later but here you can see a bit - HGW belts, Barracuda resin radio and battery, Barracuda placards

    F2FD1537-B735-45E7-8247-9E7F3DFCD3D5.thumb.jpeg.c5d5d3a455ba275d5ee6569ccd9ed696.jpeg

    annoyingly, the resin made the canopy sit proud once i installed the small arch brace piece - I might ask Roy about that

    9EA87CB1-3403-4AC9-B7DD-162A1B27DAB2.thumb.jpeg.5aa97957e900973b909450df0a8e0629.jpeg

    it’s the wiring cover piece that is fouling…

     

    2E4B974F-1FAA-4D6C-B134-D218D587CF0D.thumb.jpeg.52eab53be656a1c798d8f92a731737fa.jpeg

    I pondered snipping it out and scratching the wiring - that would probably be more in scale and look better to be honest, but i am getting impatient to finish the build, so i just did a bit of careful sanding and scraping and it now fits

    FYI i have snipped the ‘t-bar’ piece that would keep the canopy in place so that it can be removed completely; not sure how much of a benefit it ultimately proved to be but hey ho.

    Next up will be the exhausts…

    started with spatter template using some metallics but also some RLM24 blue mixed with one of the metallics

    pics are pretty crappy, and I’m not sure whether it was worth it, but it was super quick to do

    DABBAA43-4595-4614-A55E-16F1DBF91A1D.thumb.jpeg.f59c2b80c035cb52d19426ed2f815166.jpeg

    4CA28679-C098-4453-A4B9-3B94EEF6D88E.thumb.jpeg.78967078a3b2d62c4cc7189562800c7d.jpeg

    B33DAB23-1EDE-4D29-AC67-9296B0E4D3A8.thumb.jpeg.7a48657680cee39039388b94c4c5e665.jpeg

    tomorrow i will give the oils shown below a whirl to finish up

    9E536695-EA11-42AD-8973-514BDEBF12BE.thumb.jpeg.d6c54da2c90280c2bffc1c8eca681a18.jpeg

    • Like 5
  18. 54 minutes ago, DocRob said:

    Thank you for showing the instructions error. I'm more or less sure, I will build the P-51 without bombs, but if my chosen plane had the racks, I have to find out. I will keep your advice in mind.
    I never tried to brush paint with Ak's Extreme Metals. I assumed, their coverage would not be sufficient. I like Tamiya's LP colors for the task, flows and covers well and 'silver' has a nice steely look.

    Cheers Rob

    Hey Rob

    Sorry I wasn’t clear - the instructions are fine, but the original P-51 release is for drop tanks only; I checked the instructions of the later releases which included bombs and found the use of the J8 parts on both front and back of the racks in those kits where you use bombs; for drop tanks the instructions I have pictured are correct.

    Re the brush painting, I’m only using them for v small / tiny areas; i don’t doubt that if you tried to use them on a large area you would encounter ‘issues’!

    Cheers

    Nick

    • Like 3
  19. 11 hours ago, DocRob said:

    Thank you Kevin, I'm happy that I switched to the lead wire instead of Anyz braided thread. It would have looked right in 24 scale. My late decision made the approach a bit bumpy and the result is not perfect, but I feel better now.

    Cheers Rob

     

    agreed - I have a bunch of Anyz stuff and I don't think any of those braided lines are that appropriate for 1/32 - the braid is just too chunky (and apart from that I am not sure that half of the things we want to use them for were actually braided hose in the first place).

    it's a great shame their spark plugs and other similar 'gubbins' do not come pre-drilled to mate any associated wiring - I tried and failed to drill them out, and just gave up.

    i like the way lead wire is super easy to work with, but i have to be careful not to dent it with tweezers; again something I usually fail at (if you look closely at my P-51 wheel well - but don't tell anyone lol)

    Can't wait to see more of this build

    Nick

    • Like 3
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