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rieser

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Everything posted by rieser

  1. Lovely work indeed. Nice pics to show it off with too. Beaut stuff. Cheers, Ralph.
  2. Hello Jeroen: nice to see some WIP from you again. Looking forward to seeing which scheme you've picked for this project. Cheers, Ralph.
  3. Great stuff Brad. Might have a vodka before it try it!! Thanks for the pointers on this one - vey much appreciated. Cheers, Ralph.
  4. Cheers Gents. Exhaust staining is a hightly-thinned mix of Tamiya's XF-68 NATO Brown and XF-69 NATO Black - more brown than black in this brew. Dave: Mal Mayfield at Miracle Paint Masks in the UK cut these for me. Cheers, Ralph.
  5. The rest of the marking on bar the serials, and the start of some weathering... Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph.
  6. RAF Dark Green and Medium Sea Grey based on Tamiya's acrylic colours. The MSG was mottled with some XF-19 Sky Grey and some shadows were added using a 70:30 mix of Sky Grey and XF-54 Dark Sea Grey. The DG was mottled with XF-51 Khaki Drab and then with XF-65 Field Grey. 35 degrees C and humid. Perfect for mile-wide overspray to replicate the second repaint before going on display at Farnborough. Will see whether a filter or two can help blend it to a more acceptable scale look. First of the markings sprayed using masks by Mal Mayfield at Miracle Paint Masks. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph.
  7. Cheers Gents. Bevan: yes there is some slight tonal variation in the yellow. Will enhance it once the roundels have been added. Not sure how the RAF went about painting the captured stuff, so will keep the weathering on the lighter side. Jeroen: the "Do not turn" was done with Vallejo and a fine brush. A friend suggested that it would be easier and perhaps even better-looking if done with a weel-sharpened coloured pencil. I've never had much luck flattening plastic kit tyres - can't seem to get them even so that the model sits well. Not a fan of filing flat spots so will live with the "high pressure' hoops. Cheers, Ralph.
  8. Hasegawa's 32nd scale Bf109 G-14 on the way to wearing RAF colours... The "RAF Yellow" was mixed from Tamiya's XF-3 Flat Yellow, XF-4 Yellow Green and Gunze's H413 RLM04 acrylics, and sprayed over a mist coat of XF-4. This helped to minimise the amount of yellow needed to get coverage. The angled flap surfaces were painted with a dark grey in the hope that they might pick up some extra light when on wheels. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph.
  9. Hello Nick: I used the GMF Hurri set for the Hobby Boss Vb Trop build earlier in the year. Unfortunately the GMF backing plate was smaller in diameter than the nose so the GFC spinner was epoxied to a Hasegawa Mk.I backing plate - which was larger in diameter than the nose, so needed sanding down to match the nose. The prop blades needed some Mr Surfacer repairs as some of the resin had flaked off. Good luck with the project. Cheers, Ralph.
  10. Lower teeth on... ... white laid down - a little difficult to see where the matching teeth bits need to line up... ... teeth masked off. Needed to use a couple of old oversized teeth to match up with the upper sections. Gum masks removed... ...gums painted and marks replaced. Lip masks removed... ... results... Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph.
  11. Cheers Rick. Hello Daywalker: yes - give Mal a yell. Here's the first effort with the "Grey Nurse" mask set. They do take time and patience. You'll notice some minor paint bleed between the shark mouth colours, but these should be fine with a bit of Vallejo touch-up and weathering. Otherwise, the rest of the masks worked very well. There's some speculative over-painting around the serials and topside roundels - thought to have been done when the Grey Nurses got their RAAF markings. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph.
  12. Nick: Mal Mayfield runs Miracle Paint Masks in the UK. Contact details are: miraclemasks@hotmail.co.uk , http://www.freewebs.com/miraclemasks/ and https://www.facebook.com/miraclemasks I find it easiest to contact Mal by email. The vinyl goes over the cannon blisters without issue. Position the mask lightly in place. Mark the blister with a pen. Lift the mask and cut along the pen mark to allow the mask to relax over the blister. Add some tape to seal the cut. I found the the mask that fits over the the engine to need the most attention. I put numerous small cuts in it to allow it to lay naturally in place. They do take some trial-and-error, so it pays to be patient and work gently. Mal's camo mask set also includes 48th scale paper templates for those who don't like to paint a complete Ocean Grey surface before painting the Dark Green. Scale-up instructions are given to make 32nd scale templates. These could just as easily be used instead of the vinyl masks. Will be interesting to see how the shark-mouth masks go. Hope this helps. Cheers, Ralph.
  13. Trying out Mal Mayfield's "Spitfire/Seafire Camouflage High Back" masks on Tamiya's 32nd scale Mk.VIII. Mal's pics give a good idea as to how his masks should be applied (shown here on his taped-together Mk.VIII). I wasn't able to get quite as good a fit, but I'm more than happy with the results for a first-go. Camo was painted with Tamiya acrylics. XF-82 with 8:2 XF-82:XF-83 mottle for the Ocean Grey; XF-81 with XF-51, 3:2 XF-59:XF-62, and XF-65 mottles for the Dark Green. Tried painting the Dark Green under a daylight lamp for the first time. Mottles looked nice and contrasty under the lamp, but pretty-much disappeared in daylight. Grey Nurse markings next. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph.
  14. This one rings bells. Such soft, subtle tones on a not-often modelled scheme. Very pleasing to the eye. Cheers, Ralph.
  15. I'll take anything with "Trop". Very tidy work. Cheesr, Ralph.
  16. Yep - got to love those colours. Lovely job. Great to see her finished. Cheers, Ralph.
  17. Hello Johann: very interesting late-war scheme. Can I ask where the scheme (and decals?) came from? Cheers, Ralph.
  18. Mikester, Jamme, Grant: glad the pics held you interest for a moment. Benjamin: looks like I got the Squadron wrong - appears that it should be 185 Sqn, not 603. Given you comments about the code colours, I might have them wrong too. Also got some feedback about the seamline at the front of the Vokes filter - apparently it shouldn't be there. "live and learn" I suppose! Looking forward to your next Malta project. Cheers, Ralph.
  19. DoogsATX: agree - there's something about the clipped-wing Spits. Great choice. Interesting to see where Kagero chose to apply the wheel "spatter" on the main wing undersides. I wondered about it for the Vb Trop build - thought the spatter would be more in line with the undercarriage when upright. In the end I choked and left it off. I've not seen that Kagero book - love their stuff - must find it. Dave J: apologies - missed your "what's next?" question. Next up is Tamiya's Mk.VIII. Model was assembled some time ago. Aiming for the kit RAAF Grey Nurse scheme. In two minds - the grubby WWII version, or the gleaming Temora War Bird. Cheers, Ralph.
  20. Rick: I missed the RAF "Dark Earth" by a bit - I can't get the contrast/brightness balance sorted to give a better likeness to the model colours. Apparently in the new book that Nick mentions, the colours have been suggested to be Extra Dark Sea Grey and Slate Grey over Sky . They'd look terific. Dave, Nick: windshield is from the Tamiya Mk.IX - acquired last year when Rainbow 10 was still offerring to supply individual Tamiya kit sprues to overseas customers - they've stopped overseas supply since. Canopy is from the Hasegawa Mk.I. Nick: other mods included... spinner is a kitbash of the old Hasegawa Mk.I spinner grafted to the kit backing plate (GMF spinner had issues) - looking at Jamme's Vb, perhaps that boxing includes the earlier spinner and props. Gun sight, rearview mirror and aerial mast are Tamiya - left over from the French Mk.IXc build. Covered wheels are Roy's resin wheels with the spare PE covers from the Tamiya Mk.IX - copied from the "Malta Blue" Mk.IX posted here a while back. Roy's hubs needed filling and redrilling to take the HB axles. The Quickboost exhausts and Master-Model barrels were straightforward. Nav lights were made by pushing heated clear sprue through holes in the Waldran punch set plate. DoogsATX: find your stuff very pleasing to the eye. Great pics and clear descriptions - they show your work so well. Be very interested to see which Malta subject you have in mind. Johan: the wing root wear and tear was done by layering. Base colours were post-shaded with lighter tones, then thinned Vallejo acrylic colours were appled with a sponge AFV modeller chipping style. Citadel acrylics were used to paint on the worn metal colours, and then the areas were treated with AK Interactive's "Streaking grime for dark yellow vehicels" enamel wash. Testors Dullcote tinted with small amounts of Tamiya's NATO Black and NATO Red Brown was used to blend the layers together. Dirt on the wheels was done with Maru Technics "Easy Mud" - a water-soluble acrylic paste that comes in 12 "earth" colours - with the added bonus that it can be tinted/recoloured with the addition of Vallejo acrylics (not tried other acrylic paints though). Very easy to use, dries quickly.
  21. Hobby Boss kit with numerous mods using Tamiya Mk.IX and Hasegawa Mk.I parts, prop blades from Grey Matter Figures, exhausts from Quickboost, wing cannons from Master-Model, and wheels from BarracudaStudios. Extra rivet detail was added around the engine using the RB Production rivet tools. Marking were painted on using masks from Miracle Paint Masks. Some truely impressive finshed work pics on the forum - sorry I can't match them. Happy to provide more details on the mods if anyone is interested. Thanks for Looking. Cheers, Ralph.
  22. Dragon's 2-in-1 nightfighter boxing with rivets using the RB Productions tools and painted markings using masks by Mal Mayfield. I got a poorly-cast set of Quickboost exhausts which unfortunately had many hole in the stubs, so I went back to the kit parts. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph.
  23. Done almost OOB in 2009. Gunze acrylic paints and kit decals. Blast tubes from brass tubing; undercarriage position indicators from stretched sprue; harness from Tamiya tape. Hope these aren't too dark on your monitor. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph.
  24. Thanks Gents - very kind words - much appreciated. styrenedemon: the tonal shifts in the paintwork were done by pushing the contrasting tonal variation during postshading. The limitation with applying the colours by airbrush is that they always look soft-edged. Most of the wing root chipping on this one was done with a 2B lead pencil. The pencil was added in a couple of layers, and blended in with airbrushed grimy-coloured filters. "Fresh" chips were added after the pencil-filter layers, just to pop out a few spots here and there. I've been trying to use thinned Vallejo acrylics and the AFV "mapping" technique to add hard-edged scuffing. Still trying to get the hang of it. I've not tried the dissolved salt technique - think it would be very interesting to try on an Olive Drab-Neutral Grey subject. Cheers, Ralph.
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