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Thanks for your tip, wackyracer. I am looking forward to see your Ho 229. Please remember to share with us.

I know. Building these frames is going to be a challenge and lots of fun. Go for it. I am thinking to get one more engine and cut it for display.

I finally have time back to big scale. When I noticed the Horten Ho 229 long time ago, there were 1/48 Dragon kits and couple of 1/72 kits on the market. I was not interested with small scale Ho 229 and the Dragon kits were hard to find. Finally I heard that Zoukei-Mura planned to have 1/32 Ho 229. After I saw some photos of their Ho 229, this Ho 229 became to my must have. I got this kit two months ago. After opened the box, I was surprised how complicated it is. Then I decided that I am going to build this kit out of box. Just enjoy a simple way to build a complicated kit. Hope you enjoy this build with me. Zoukei-Mura SWS No.08 1:32 Horten Ho 229 Prepared and cleaned these parts for an engine of Ho 229.

Thank you, Matt and JonathanReed.

I believe that every modeler has talent if he keeps building models. Thank you, Jeroen. Next model is a Sci-Fi model, Transformers. If you say in 1/32, that will be an A-4 Skyhawk, but probably begin the project after 6 months. You may follow my FB here. https://www.facebook.com/pages/DeepBlue-Model/498437670208030'> https://www.facebook.com/pages/DeepBlue-Model/498437670208030 Thank you, Grant. I am glad to hear that. Because I always learn something and enjoy when I see someone’s WIP, so I want to share these useful skills with every one of you. That means we learn from each other, then everyone build a nice model. What a wonderful World!! Thank you, mikester. Thank you, Kagemusha. Thank you, Matt. I used soft pastel. Just like you said, grind the soft pastel on sand paper and apply these powders on the areas where I want to have these effects.

Thank you, Jamme. By the way, I suddenly notice that there are 114 "Like" below. Wow~~~

Thank you. Thanks for your comments.

Here are some photos of this P-400. Thanks for watching. Hope you guys enjoy this WIP.

Hi, guys. Really appreciate your nice words. Thanks again.

Thank you, Jamme.

All right, I think this is the final update. More photos of this P-400 are coming soon. Thanks for watching. Client also provided a Signifer 1:32 WWII USAF forked lift set for the bomb and drop tank. Cleaned these resin parts and tried to dry fit. In the photo of the Signifer forked lift set, there was a wooden frame on the bomb loader, but this wooden frame wasn’t included in this set actually. Therefore, I tried to scratch build two wooden frames by the wooden stick of popsicle. Painted the basic colors for bomb loader and wooden frames. Washed by oil paint and painted silver for chip effect. Also used soft pastel to add some weathering. This was going to be a nice way for displaying the bomb and drop tank.

Thank you, guys. Dave, next 1/32 is an A-4 Skyhawk, but you may be disappointed because I probably begin building the A-4 six months later due to there are several Sci-Fi and figures models are behind this P-400.

Thank you, Rick. New in progress. Finally finished this P-400, but I still need to build a bomb loader for displaying the bomb and drop tank. I will share more photos when I am done with everything. Thank you guys. I really appreciate your comments and encouragements all the way. Glued landing gears and wheel doors on fuselage. I used fishing line for the antenna wires and 0.4mm brass pipe for the insulators. Last two parts, glued the propeller and right door on fuselage. Ya~~this P-400 was done.

Thank you all.

New in progress. Thanks for watching. Made the second stage chip effect. Finial result of fuselage. Added some stains on radiator air outlets by soft pastel. Began to paint small parts. Airbrushed camouflage on doors. After washed the doors, did the weathering and made some chip effects. Painted the propeller. Applied the stencil decals on blades. Used soft pastel to make some smudges. Airbrushed these landing gears. Painted the details and break lines first. Then washed the gears and made some chips on gears as well. Painted the wheels and wheel doors. Used same method to do the weathering for them. I airbrushed Mr. Metal Color 218 alminume on exhausts first. Then airbrushed a very thin brown again. Washed exhausts by oil paint, then I used soft pastel to make some rust. Painted the MGs and washed by oil paint. Painted the basic colors for bomb and drop tank. Washed by gray oil paint, also used various colors of soft pastel to make the weathering for bomb and drop tank. Put left door and exhausts on fuselage. Made the exhaust stains with soft pastel. Another side. Airbrushed sliver on these areas of navigation light first, then airbrushed various clear color paints on them.

Thank you, guys. Thanks for all your encouragements. They are the Force………to me.

No problem. In my opinion, Tamiya masking tape is best choice for masking models.

Thank you, Kagemusha.

Thanks, Daywalker. It really was challenging to cut the “Whistling Britches” masks. I did it twice. At last, I found using scissors is more easier. Ha…ha… I remember that I encountered same situation as you mentioned. This mask was easy to leave some residues or traces on gloss surface. I did same thing as you, used the tape to remove remaining adhesives repeatedly, again and again. After painting the fuselage, I used oil paint and Zippo lighter fluid to wash the fuselage. I think that some of remaining residues had been removed during this step. At the end, I airbrushed flat clear coat on fuselage to consist with the same gloss and protect the surface. This step also covered some residues. If any residues still remained, I would do some weathering to “cover” them. That is how I do with this situation. Just for your reference.

Thank you, Jamme.

Thanks, Harv.

Thanks, Jon. New in progress. Applied stencil decals with Mr. Mark Softer. Then airbrushed clear paint on them to protect these decals after they were dry. These stencil decals from kit were thin and looked nice. I used gray oil paint to wash fuselage. Washed bottom of fuselage, also made some oil stains. Painted sliver in some selected spots for chip effect. Then I used different colors of soft pastel to make shades and adjust the tones on fuselage. At last, airbrushed flat clear to protect the surface and consist with the same gloss. Made some chip effects on bottom too.

Guys, thanks for your nice words. I am working on weathering now. Will update soon.

Thanks for your comments, JeroenPeters and Jamme.

New in progress. Thanks for watching. I mixed Tamiya XF-21 sky with a little bit white for bottom of fuselage. Added more white with XF-21 sky for light tone on some areas. Prepared to paint the camouflage. Painted the brown first. I mixed Tamiya XF-52 flat earth and a little bit red brown for these areas. P-400 had a solid edged camouflage, but it would be looking better if the edge was a little bit softer. Therefore, I used Mounting Putty and masking tape to have the shape of camouflage. Then painted the green. I mixed XF-11 J.N. green and a little bit olive drab for the green. Prepared to mask and paint “U.S. ARMY” and “BW-146”. The Montex super mask set only had BW-167, so I cut a “4” on masking tape to have BW-146. Next painted the wheel bays. Removed Mounting Putty and tape. Painted the walkway black. I wanted to have sun faded effects on fuselage and wing. So I mixed some light tone colors and airbrushed on camouflage. Surprise time!! Removed all of masking tapes. Finally saw the shark mouth. Another angle. Bottom of fuselage.