krow113

No pics... I'm cleaning out a space for the imminent arrival of a 4'x4' CNC router table...….. The Shapeoko XXL is on its way.

Thanks Jeff

I propose to ask members here: What WNW kit they think would be a good one to make a period barnstormer out of ? I think the Bristol Fighter would be a good start , I've also already built it , the late version would be preferable: I have also been waiting for a Curtis Jenny from WNW as it seems a 'natural' for them as well as this proposed work. Images to get the ball rolling: Imagine the colors: In flight displays would become incredible!: This chick transferred planes in mid-flight!: Tennis anyone!? Anyway an idea I wanted to get down on paper so to speak. Not a lot of the WNW kits will qualify , but it would give an opportunity for a unique model and cool display.

Theres. Something out there. On. The . Wing. W.S. in the original T.Z.

The laser can cut plasic very well. Here is a 1/6 scale throttle lock screw that is from .030" plastic card x 4mm dia. You can see the attempts all around the work and the actual tlock used to dimension the work: The laser is mint. I use it regularly to do all kinds of work. I was saved by a guy who got a couple and put all of his mistakes and adventures with the laser on youtube. His name is Russ and he did like 80 vids on these Chinese lasers and without a doubt saved me from wrecking it and helped get past the 'chinglish' barrier. Even then some probs occurred mostly because there are no cut-outs or safety switches or instructions or manual or....! Also cutting plexi (acrylic) up to 3/16" the laser polish' the edges of the cut! So cool. I almost got a job on another forum cutting wing ribs but the guy didn't want to pay me to do the file , and couldn't supply his own file. By the time files are made , samples cut and sent for inspection , amendments made and returned etc all needed to prove the work prior to production , theres no fun or profit in it. Send me the file , pay me what we agree and you'll get your lasered stuff.

Laser engraved burlwork base for The Dragon:

I was lucky enough to see this bomber with all 4 Merlins turning , stood behind and felt the power of the airflow. Unforgettable.

...first to coin the phrase; 'LANCTASTIC'

LOL! Theres always an exception to the rule... she's prolly attracted more to the illusion of 'celebrity'.

Large scale Harley stuff:

The prop was the best alternative I could come up with after looking at all of the available ways to go about it. The display gets a lot of double takes at shows as guys take a second look thinking the prop IS spinning! The only other alternative was to just have the spinner. I do agree with you though , the prop is the focal point and will make or break the display. Full spinner paper template: Clear blade selection of diff widths: Not an easy choice with the alternatives available. The solid renditions are not realistic enough , that's why I did it a few diff ways to figure it out.

...thangya,thangyaverramush...

Easy enough to do. I googled 'English countryside aerial view' , got a file , brought it into Corel and literally hit blur! Printed onto vehicle wrap material and stretched over the base: ...well , maybe not that easy to do...

Yeaaahhhh…. Heres the thing about modelling and pussy: THERE ISN'Y ANY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! See any hot chicks at model shows? : NO!!! When you win the whole show is there a super model on your arm? : NO!!!!!!!!! When yo uwin the whole show is there a big cheque? : NO!!!!!!!!!! What is modelling: A room full of aging brilliantine stick insects wearing anoraks and smelling like a pig farm arguing over RLM colors while whinging aboot the 3 dollar model you are trying to sell. LOL!!! TOO FUNNY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I looked at the instructions for this kit last night. I think you need to determine the diff between RAF wires and regular rigging. RAF wires are flat as shown in the instructions and don't have 'turnbuckles' as regular rigging does. The kit has both types of rigging , I would separate the rigging into the 2 categories and think about it in those terms. Prym is good for the flat rigging , gaining the flat profile when stretched. Also there may not be turnbuckles on both ends of a line , I couldn't see well enough in the instructions pics to see if there are tb's at both ends , but it does not make sense to have 2 on one line. The ww1 site is the best for this type of info, explaining the parts and then detailing how to make them. Eyelets are easily made , as are tubing lengths. Gaspatchs site also explains the diff's and with pics too. I use their stuff as well as p/e for my work. The only way to save the $ is to do it yourself, you'll then know why the parts are expensive , the time to make them is what your paying for. On the forum where they like to argue in a circular fashion about nothing , you can search 'The Biff Piece' and see the RAF flat rigging rendered with p/e parts and Prym.