krow113

Maybe on the bigger ones use amask and paint them.?...I use my Testors burnishing tool for this kinda thing. Wierd ,as a decal is a pretty simple thing.

meh! prolly 43-44 shades will do

And now for something completly different: Marco Miniatures : THE BRIDE! A complete , original classic resin garage kit from 1989.

Eduard P/N # 32 037. Full P/E set , but good luck finding it , I was lucky to.

Agreed.

Good stuff.

I'll bite ,with a Biff: ..since you wont take a bike...

Sand/ fill the rivits,paint a base color, apply the wood decals (they may be transparent so watch out ) and use some Archer Fine Transfer decal rivits over the wood decals. You can add more grain/detail to the base color if the wood decals are transparent.

This is rather noticable, I sanded lightly to remove the 4 peaks created by the excavation of the plastic. The tool mod sounds ok too.

Look closely at the wings I attached to my Trump tool. Very little pressure is needed to actually hold the tool. A minimal grip affords a more decet amount of downward force to be applied. This solved the wheel walk for me. I did this because tossing aside a tool due to a slight imperfection is not good. All the parts came from simple sources. Took me longer to devise the plan than to make the parts and get the tool back into the production schedule.

None of this solves the 'wheel waver' problem described. I have RB's set as well, ingeniuos to make it fit an Exacto holder. A stainless steel drafting ruler , with the cork liner, helped with the dreaded WW syndrome, allowing a rigid edge to run the wheel against. I also tried 2 runs of Dymo , straddling the rivit line.

The Trump tool is lacking in that it has a plastic axle for the rivitting wheel. Doing my B-17 I found it to bo too weak to imprint the rivits evenly. The axle broke. S o I swapped out the plastic wreck and used a shoulder bolt type of metal axle. I also added sheet metal 'stirrups' to allow my fingers to apply downward pressure only. This solved the problem:

I havent looked anywhere else , I got that linky off another model forum. Price was ok by me so I ordered.

I pre-ordered here : http://www.ehattons.com/70086/Airfix_A19002_Hawker_Typhoon_MkIB_/StockDetail.aspx

Good detail realization using combinational methods ! Gettin' sporty 'round here! Airfix is ahead of the pack , raising the bar.

Would this be the first kit with stressed skin? I see that we are gonna have 'indented' rivits as mainstream quality. I have no prob with that , especially with the kits we are seeing come out.

Does look the bomb...

Sharpes use a vegetable oil based ink. 'nuff said.

If there is no panel lines then they do get used in the small scales. I used a pencil to show the ribs here: Its pretty subtle , in 1/72 scale.

...

Joker has some good advice... Listen up! And if yer gonna edit and "correct" my posts , at least get the spelling right. Thats a new one on me , and more than a little Orwelian.

Get on that Gotha!

You have to push the blade forward to roll the tube. Go slow on the first 360 degree rotation ,to make sure the cut lines up as you roll. A forward pressure is more important than the downward pressure. Use your free hand to help the tube roll.

Show the jig. You will need to score all the way around and the knife should go through evenly , there should'nt be any "snapping" involved. Try sliding a piece of solid rod into the tube end, this will stop the tube from caving in as you rotate/cut it. You could also solder a 'T' onto the opposite end of the tube to facilitate rotation. Easy technique , but like most needs to be practised to get the "touch". K&S Tools makes a small tubing cutter , I think .5 mm may be too small for it but Micro Mark carries it. So does Dave @ Burnaby Hobbies. Good luck!

Why vac? Resin casting is the norm for figure re-creation. Unless you are looking for generic figs.