krow113
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Posts posted by krow113
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Yes , very well mottled.
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Very nicely done.
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1 hour ago, BlrwestSiR said:
So a 1/35 sub is kosher? Might have to take the Type XXIII out then.
I'd like to do my David here too!
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1 hour ago, Clunkmeister said:
That ironclad looks like a deathtrap.... Just a little bit of cold water leaking onto that hot boiler,... KABOOM!
Not much iron on her , but you are right the iron is plated over the boiler area.
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lol
jus' got shippy with the rest o' the boys Ernie!
Its either the David or a 1/350 Tribal class destroyer for some CDN content.
I have a resin Haida.
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lol
After A Gotha;
Already fully stoked.
Another arguable failure that influenced warships and warfare at sea from that time on.
Def on the cutaway:
And the figs , allways the figs:
And a fully detailed , fantastic story.
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On 2/23/2021 at 10:46 PM, HubertB said:
In this case, it is like the resin manufacturers want the printing process to be a nerdy thing « only for the initiated »
To illustrate my point: most resins for DLP printers have a in-process curing time of 6 to 8 seconds for a 50 microns layer.
in the case of the resin that is supposed to produce cristal-clear, non-yellowing parts (Phrozen SC-801 - not cheap at a minimum of 120 € for one liter) I finally found-out that the time setting was supposed to be ... 20 seconds ! You would think that they would write something down on the label
!
Oh well, you live and learn as they say
Hubert
Good on ya!
However it may come to pass that the substance you put all that time into getting to work , may just be discontinued because you were the only one who got it to work!
Then you will be re-applying your skills to the next substance all at your own cost!
You will agree that the computer has enhanced out lives.
You may not agree that the computer has degraded the way we treat each other.
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lol
mighty fine photoshoppin!
The model is nice too.
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1 hour ago, HubertB said:
For the time being, I am the guinea pig... So far, I have failed my print runs twice, with the resin sticking to the vat rather than the building plate.
Opening rant: why are printer settings not more clearly indicated by resin manufacturers
? It seems like this is a more closely guarded secret than the code for the safe at Fort Knox 
...
Oh well, trial #3 tomorrow, with tweaked printer settings
Hubert
Hub;
Have you no knowledge of how teh computor industry works?
lol
They put the stuff out and wait for you to fix it.
Pretty much since day one.
The diff between odd Corels and even Corel numbers tells the story!
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lol
cant be that sick !
he's tryna grind the Mariner outta me!
lol
right back in - up to the elbow eh harv!?
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...drink water out of a hoofprint...
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never said anyone was stupid.
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lol
ya gots to keep atap dribbling to avoid freeze up!
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Sometimes a fairly well 'tuned' airbrush can spray a wraith of decent chips.
1/24:
Or just some chipping fluid:
Tools are important too ,The Gotha engine panels were done with a conical circular brush.
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Grind out the spurious lines.
That would provide a spurious base to begin some less spurious detailing.
A semi-decent compromise.
Good luck!
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lol
teeth on edge time
good save!
perhaps a little high end white glue in the decal solution could help adhesion
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or its just plane bs
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Good score!
...so is there a G V kit out there with 2 lower wing sprues!?
Bit of a F up!
Sounds like a good outcome and a good company to deal with.
I have a Hippo example, it looks like a lot of fun , then ya get to cover everything in decals!
I like the markings on the camo decals too!
Reference material is abundant for G V's , tons of camo to choose from as well as documented subjects.
Not too many attempts at these kits ans other Gotha's , I regularly search forums for builds , but very , very few. WNW's gallery is a good site for G IV's , see what other guys have done.
I am very interested in the prop finishing guide there in your pics any chance of posting an enlargemment?
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All I could add is physical suggestions.
Secure the model some how , so you hands are free.
Stabilize your forearms , lay them flat or somehow get them relaxed in a solid position.
It takes 30-60 seconds to scribe that line, if ya gotta glue your arms to the table for that then ....what are you waiting for!
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All great models.
Hubert wins so far!
Here is Italeri's WW 2 Harley-Davidson as it would have looked after returning servicemen got through with them.
Bobber '47
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Thanks Kman!
Dimensions taken and mirrors cut from sign material.
I used this pic to illustrate a property of the material , it can be dented , in this case on the left of the left mirror , this just with my fingernail:
Using a sticky stick may be a better install tool.
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Just a quick word on the WNW landing gear comment. My Biff and A Gotha both surprised me , especially A Gotha , the landing gear is far more robust than it looks. I was very impressed with the fit and engineering.
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Genuine modelling !
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F.A.Q. Figure Painting Techniques By Kiril Kanaev
in Tools, Books & Misc.
Posted
I agree with Hubert.
Sold me on the book , I ordered right away.
That ,and this dismal last attempt at a fig , convinced me the 40 books I already have on fig work are not enough: