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GazzaS

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Posts posted by GazzaS

  1. 7 hours ago, DocRob said:

    Thank you Gary, I didn't know about the landing accidents, but the canopy was one of the shortcomings for the night fighter role. Everything, explosions, the guns, search lights, reflected multiple times in the glazing and there was no protection for the pilot.
    You also wouldn't want to fire the guns from the pod with extended front landing gear :hsmack:.

    Cheers Rob

    with tanks and pod...   I have to wonder what happened to overall speed.  still, the model looks ultra excellent with all of that gear hanging off.

    • Like 1
  2. More HGW Rivets...   There's nothing else...   no cool painting tricks or fancy construction.  So, if ya don't like HGW rivets or the patterns on the 190...   have a great day!

    Anyway...

               .....about HGW rivets....

                                               ....Working with them is like dating two women at once.  You don't want them accidentally bumping into each other.  So you have to work in segments.  The other day, I laid down the outer upper wing panels and 1/2 of the dorsal fuselage panel aft of the cockpit, as well as the port horizontal stabilizer panel.  So, that enabled me to do flanking panels over the guns and the flaps today.  There are a couple lessons learned here...

    IMG_2271.thumb.JPG.0430a6b7dc989cbb6374433aa1a09964.JPG

    IMG_2272.thumb.JPG.ad10c1b9035cfb9651e98be224a8683b.JPG

    IMG_2269.thumb.JPG.9fd54b070746ba124d4a548ad3f67fac.JPG

    IMG_2270.thumb.JPG.4ae19501b5ec198be7d29066671efb48.JPG

     

    This panel over the MG's will have a lot of rivets showing when I am done.  It was a panel that was moved often, so beat-up, it will be.

    IMG_2268.thumb.JPG.40464a5c640b47739544ef15233b59f8.JPG

     

    If you follow the yellow lines you'll see rivets that look a bit rough.   This is what happens if you don't get them down fast enough.  They were on a narrow piece of carrier film, and ended up not looking so neat.

    IMG_2273.thumb.JPG.3a18b8bc9d8e59c06d6bf9b9f7e472cd.JPG

     

    Another point you may have to deal with is working with a close, but not exact version of the aircraft you're building.  The rivet set if for the A8...   so, here at the blast troughs, some fixing will be required.

    IMG_2274.JPG.5a08785434bcee0dced505a3064039b1.JPG

    Speaking of fixing...   you'll notice the yellow dashed lines.  They are where an accident occurred.  After putting on a panel of rivets, I set the cowling down, and the carrier film must have been jarred, slightly moving the panel and pushing the rivet lines up a tiny fraction.  So, the remedy was to wet sand the out-of-place rivet line with 6k grit micro mesh.  Easy.  I'll just use a free line of rivets later.  I'll have to do the same process around the blast troughs.

     

    Anyway...   thanks for looking!

     

     

    • Like 6
    • Thanks 1
  3. On 6/28/2023 at 2:37 AM, KevinM said:

    Well it looks quite Nice Gary!!:unworthy:

     

    7 hours ago, Martinnfb said:

    Beautiful surface detail Gary. I hate to say it, but Hasegawa made a mistake by positioning the gunsight too back, protruding through the edge of the IP panel cover. Sorry man I didn't see that sooner, thought you knew about that.

    :(

     

    Fw190A3_cockpit.jpg

    Thanks guys.  I should have known it.  But I forgot.  Because the pit of the 190 is so simple, I rarely even look at pics any more.  But now you put a bug up my a55.  I might have to do something about it.

    • Like 1
  4. 4 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

    Great rivet work Gary. Interesting to hear from you and Rob the inconsistencies you've both experienced.

    I have the 109 set they included with their re-boxing of the Dragon kit but haven't built it yet. 

    One of those things we have to remember is that decals and transfers all have a shelf life.  Ten years down the road, I'll bet any of these sitting in the stash won't be usable.

    • Like 2
  5. 8 hours ago, DocRob said:

    I amen that, to nearly all HGW products, I ever used. Wet transfers, masks and sometimes even the seatbelts need adjustment, special care and whatever it takes, but it's easy to bust with their products, like the wet transfers. I guess, the process is the same with the rivets, having a carrier film, later to be removed. To finish my rant about HGW-products, their masks rarely fit and some detail sets, I bought were partly unusable, like the paper wood inserts for the Hansa Brandenburg or their wood decals :wallbash:. The seatbelts, I do like mostly, but some needed extra trimming of the width for fiddling them through the buckles. I don't understand it with HGW, they do have a very interesting portfolio, but a bit more of testing would help to improve their quality. 

    Sorry for the rant Gary, your riveting job looks absolutely fantastic and I can't wait to see it under paint and maybe slightly sanded. I have  no idea, how the Eduard rivets behave, which I have for my P-38. They may be produced by HGW too. I will give them a try soon.

    Cheers Rob

    Thanks, Rob.  The worst thing about the rivets is they sometimes just float off.  It is even more likely to happen if you trim close to the rivet.  As a consequence, I leave at least 5mm between the rivets and the trimmed edge of the carrier film.  It's not like a decal where you want to get rid of the carrier film.  But it really makes it difficult to get the sheets to lay correctly if your extended edge happens to lay over a raised detail.  Removing the carrier film is a tedious process as well with this batch.  On the 109, the carrier film came off pretty easily.  But on this 190 it is a struggle.

    • Like 4
  6. Alright...   after the first round of HGW rivets.

    All I can say about HGW rivets is that I am unable to get consistent results with them.  One panel will come out perfectly...   and it's mirror image will have floaties...   rivets that have drifted away from their allotted position.  But they are so fine...   that if you don't sand to make them show...   they won't be seen.  Here are some pics:

    IMG_2262.thumb.JPG.243d8ebf48f42d630e62c3aa4d19108a.JPG

    IMG_2263.thumb.JPG.f6f2d23c7875999eea17d94f5b3fef0c.JPG

    IMG_2264.thumb.JPG.4061d782b22e0a73c27aabad1e652978.JPG

    IMG_2265.thumb.JPG.78b1d70419884240610950a984b9c287.JPG

    IMG_2266.JPG.befdf1eae3077550cfae928bace00026.JPG

    I still prefer them to the rivet wheel.

    • Like 5
  7. Alright...   after the first round of HGW rivets.

    All I can say about HGW rivets is that I am unable to get consistent results with them.  One panel will come out perfectly...   and it's mirror image will have floaties...   rivets that have drifted away from their allotted position.  But they are so fine...   that if you don't sand to make them show...   they won't be seen.  Here are some pics:

    IMG_2262.thumb.JPG.243d8ebf48f42d630e62c3aa4d19108a.JPG

    IMG_2263.thumb.JPG.f6f2d23c7875999eea17d94f5b3fef0c.JPG

    IMG_2264.thumb.JPG.4061d782b22e0a73c27aabad1e652978.JPG

    IMG_2265.thumb.JPG.78b1d70419884240610950a984b9c287.JPG

    IMG_2266.JPG.befdf1eae3077550cfae928bace00026.JPG

    I still prefer them to the rivet wheel.

     

     

    • Like 6
    • Thanks 2
  8. Thank you, Chris!

    I only sand if there will be a chance of paint lift.  And if you're masking, there's  50% chance that you will lift your paint and primer somewhere.  Since I have used the combination of sanding with 1200 or 2k grits and plain Tamiya paint, I have had Zero paint lift.  So, it's one of my golden rules, now.

    • Like 1
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