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rkranias

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About rkranias

  • Rank
    Rick K
  • Birthday 02/09/1955

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Washington, DC
  • Interests
    Chasing my kids, making my wife laugh, gym rat, single malt with good maduro.

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  1. ah, you be too kind. you by the way are rocking that RCAF Lanc. nice scratch work on the reflectors.
  2. that's gonna be a big 'un.
  3. Adding brake lines and I've decided to try ANYZ products Line Connectors AN016 and Braided Line .5mm AN011 Black. ANYZ product is exceptional casting. I also have the Spark Plug set which must be seen to believe. Various size copper wire .3mm and .35mm used. I threaded the wire through the Braided Line so the Braided Line will hold shape. My micro drills .3mm and .35mm I drilled out the ends of connectors, yes it's a painstaking event. Using epoxy to secure the wire to Line Connector I'll pull the Braided Line back then paint the Line Connectors. I have a good feeling about this. May try same approach with ignition lines.
  4. Landing light, MV Products (P/N 21), 3.5mm clear lens installed. A dot of epoxy to secure. The landing light cover needed much sanding and shaping to fit . Mask applied. Will glue cover after epoxy for lens has cured then paint and touch up the nick just above the ejector openings. Not sure if I'll address the slight lift on the red paint on the roundel.
  5. Stenciling all done, over 60. Trust me, see for yourself. Will seal with varnish and begin weathering.
  6. Boy, you ain't kidding Ernie. Thanks i need to crack open my DH9 and Mossie after this. Thanks Carl
  7. While the gloss cures I'll work on the Prop. Roy 's Prop Assembly Jig is brilliant on many levels. The measure for 4' yellow tip is accurate. To assist in masking the tip I extended the tip color break just beyond the blade outline. I primed each blade with Gunze 1500 Black then applied a shot of light grey (to decrease yellow paint build up) on the tip area followed by yellow. After paint cure I placed each prop on the jig and carefully placed tape at the 4" mark. Each blade gets a coat of MRP77 NATO Black. Mask removed...all good. Interior of back plate gets a shot of Alclad116 Semi-Matt aluminum. For me I wanted just a peek of unpainted metal at root of prop blade. Is it accurate? Not sure. I'll get a nice color break from the prop hub and blade. Using 15 minute epoxy i set the blade in position and carefully adjust according to the jig. I let complete cure before I move on to next blade. The prop spinner got painted with MRP255 Black Night Camouflage. This gives a nice contrast between the prop spinner and blades. After near complete epoxy cure I slip on the prop spinner to double check alignment. All four blades mounted and cured the prop hub is carefully glued in place. The prop spinner easily fits on the back plate after all blades glued. Test fit of complete prop assembly. You can see the contrast black between spinner and blades. Pardon the dust. Look at prop root and you can see the aluminum color inside of back plate.
  8. National markings, sn and codes painted. Time to apply gloss. I've tried many gloss varnishes and I'm frequently trying others. Thing is I always keep coming back to Tamiya x22 gloss. I mix 1:1 ratio with Gunze Mr. Leveling Thinner (MLT). The results are always consistent. I also get to use my new Creos Procon Boy PS290 .5mm airbrush with fan tip. This is my new full coverage primer and varnish weapon. Love the nice wide spray pattern and great coverage. Was not sure about using a trigger airbrush. For full coverage this is the bees knees. Gloss applied for stencil decal work. Look forward to cut and place about 50 of these little fellas. While the gloss cures I'll work on other parts and bits.
  9. This build will represent the mount of RNZAF ace (20+ kills) Wing Commander Evan Mackie late May 1945. I chose this scheme for several reasons. I have a few Kiwi modeling friends. The scheme is absent of DDay stripes, small fuselage codes and absence of any ordnance will show the beautiful lines of the Tempest. Masking serial number and fuselage codes. Using Maketar masks and MRP NATO black the serial numbers are added. it's always special when I spot a seam well into final finishing stages. Fuselage codes Mackie's initials are MRP Sky. On Deck - Gloss, stencil decals more gloss and weathering.
  10. Mask off. Happy to report no lifting or bleeding.
  11. MRP110 Dark Green. Hard to show up on the black base. It really is marbled! Look close.
  12. Ocean Grey going down. I use black base marbling technique. It works for me. Considered using putty worms for Ocean Grey/Dark Green demarcation. I'm going in freehand. MRP115 Ocean Grey. 2 sessions needed as fatigue on trigger finger set in. Blending
  13. All national markings, ID bands will be painted. Using Maketar masks the 4 color roundel application begin. A base of MRP135 Insignia White is applied for roundels, fin flash and ID bands. I'm applying markings using this method as I want to keep paint build up to minimum. MRP122 RAF Marking Yellow is applied. This late war aircraft, flown by New Zealand ace Evan Mackie, will have C1 roundels in all 6 positions. After yellow cures masks are carefully positioned. MRP183 Oxford Blue is applied. I spend much time deliberating on the correct "blue" for late war RAF a/c. I took the FICE approach and I'm pleased with my decision. The blue has cured and more masks carefully placed. I applied liquid mask on all tape seams to insure no bleeding. MRP123 RAF Marking Red completes the national insignias. Masks removed. No bleeds, no lifting. Win, win. The DSPIAE cutter is nothing short of pure precision. The learning curve on this instrument is very short. Once I learned the razor adjustment I've have zero issues. I am cutting roundel blanks out of mylar to protect the national markings during the camouflage painting. Careful measure and a test cut, it's good. The locator is a must as this component will allow you to make cuts with very little waste of masking material. Precision cuts with very little waste the the locator tool. Blank masks cover the roundels and fin flash. Then black primer lightly covers the white over spray. MRP118 RAF Sky used fuselage ID band. MRP122 RAF Marking Yellow applied to leading edge of wings. While I'm at it I gave the prop tips some yellow love. After ID bands are masked the wing walk is painted using MRP255 Night Camouflage. To determine the proper curve at wing root I placed aluminum foil at the wing walk area and gently burnished. The precise line at wing root is revealed. After careful measuring and using a French Curve I cut the masks out of mylar. Mylar masks for wing walk applied.
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