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Found 49 results

  1. All done... http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/5063-revell-bf-109-g6-erich-hartmann/?do=findComment&comment=64760
  2. Gi Guys, It has been a while sins I have been on the site. But I am to restart my conversion of the Hasegawa Fw-190 D-9 into a D-11 with a Renaissance conversion for a D-13. I was building this in the Arrow Wolf'sFocke Wulf GB in 2013/2014. When I was doing a Fw-190 A5 on a other site did I came across this model again. So I picked this one up as well and do a duo build there. I will start here the update as well. Here are some pictures of the model how she was before the restart. the box. The decals from Eaglecals The Renaissance conversion set. And some pictures of the old build. And now the pictures of what has been done last week. I painted the cockpit tub. What a great looking set is this from MDC. The tub was put into the fuselage. The seat still needs to be done.But I will do that later. After the tube was placed wasit time to cleane up all the seams on the wings and the tail. That done was it time to mate the wing to the fuselage. That is it for now. I hope to set further next week. Cheers,
  3. Hello all ! First WIP for me here on LSM, very happy to start this build with you. I choose the well know Tamiya Spitfire IXc . I will do this scheme. See you soon for the first step. Clostermann
  4. Hi guys, Here is a model I have been working on for the last month after it was putted by me on the shelf of shame a couple of years ago. I finally finished this one today. The 21st Century models Macchi 205 is a little crude, but the form is good and quite easy to build I did made some modifications to it. the wheels and exhaust where the worst, so I replaced them. the wheels are from the spare parts box and the exhausts are from Quickboost for a Bf-109 G. Here are the pictures. [/url] Cheers, Edit: I forgot about the spinner. It is one from a old 1/32 Revell Beafighter. It was a little bit reprofiled on the tip.
  5. Hi Guys, Here is a build of a 1/32 Hasegawa Fw-190 A5 into a A5/U12. I builded it in the colours of a ace of the western front. He flew this plane at 2./JG11 in the Autumn of 1943. on 8 October 1943 he was shot down in this plane and was heavy wounded, but he recovered and flew in the last period of the war on Me-262's with JV44 from Adolf Galland near München. He did survive the war. The U12 stands for Umrüstungssats 12(conversion 12). The conversion are two gun packs with both 2 MG 151/20 in it. They are meant to deal with the American bombers that got in a big force over Germany. This also increased the armament of the A5 to 6 x 20 mm guns and 2 x 7,92 mm MG 17's. I have also used on this build a wheel set from True details, some gun barrel tips from a left over set from Master and a resin seat from ??? The gun barrels for the 20 mm guns were all made from brass tubing. Here are some pictures of the model. Cheers, Arnold
  6. Erich Hartmann's mount. Completely OOB. Gunze aqueous paints, thinned with Gunze leveling thinner. Testor's acryl flat coat. Delightful build with no reportable vices!
  7. Revell He-162 with Aires cockpit. The cockpit was a bit of a bear to get "seated" despite the fact that I scraped away all existing kit side wall detail to such an extent that I left the fuselage at near-paper thinness. RLM76 underside and RLM02 wheel wells painted with Vallejo Air (my first and last time using them). I know others love them but i just couldn't get the hang of them; I experienced constant airbrush clogging with them. In fairness though, the finish was quite good. Decals were from the kit and were excellent. I'd like to build this kit again but completely OOB. I also added a bit of plumbing on the engine, though certainly not as much as on the real thing.
  8. Here's my entry for a wonderful GB on yet another forum which theme is; "The name of the subject needs to have an animal in it...". The options are endless, and I decided to dive into the stash and grab one of my antiques. And I have plenty of antiques to chose from... But only one that ticks all of my -and- all of the GBs boxes... Matchbox kit? Check. 1/32 scale, and thus a nice big canvas to work with? Check. Room for improvement with minimal scratchbuilding? Check. Fits into the GB? TRRRRRIPLE CHECK BABY!! Tiger >> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tiger Moth >> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moth Tiger Moth >> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garden_tiger_moth It's three times the animal it needs to be! Yummy multicolour box content. Matchbox was doing MCP before it was cool. Eat that, Academy! Decal sheet... and they look like they might (being very cautious here...) still be usable... Trees... lovely crisp parts, no hint of flash on anything. One of the advantages of using an early boxing! I -had- one of the Revell reboxes in the stash, and that one had a lot more flash and sinkmarks. And even if it didn't have a decal option for the floatplane version, it did have a nice Dutch decal option... oh well... Classic Matchbox instructions. Gotta love them, sooo much nostalgia! But the Revell instructions I downloaded have a nice bonus; loads of rigging help! And trust me, I need all the help I can get when I'm rigging... I want to try to build this OOB as much as I can. Perhaps some harnesses and some tinkering with the engine, but nothing major. I will be working on this one whenever the Wendover build grinds to a halt for whatever reason. Good way to keep sane... (I hope) More soooon! Rob
  9. Great news on the jet-front: http://www.italeri.com/news_scheda.asp?idNews=643 http://www.italeri.com/imgup/Preview%20Italeri%202016%281%29.pdf
  10. I am curious--how do you fellow builders display your finished kits? I would hang them, but I don't want them getting full of dust. I am debating getting an old glass display case to put mine in. I also am considering adding wooden bases and making acrylic boxes to cover them, and have seen some tutorials on the web to do this. Are there any other ideas or tips out there? Tom
  11. I thought I'd port over my current LS project. I know most you guys are WW1 and 2 groupies, and I am too, but I'll share some jet love I planned to avoid 1/32 jets, but this one was too good a deal at our last show (50% off retail) that I had to get it, and well...half way through it and I'm back to 1/32 as my preferred scale for all things now. Kit: Trumpeter 1/32 A-6A Aftermarket: AMS FOD covers (I'm still trying to source the AMS wheels), Eduard Exterior and Undercarriage PE sets, True Details seats, AOA Decals. Originally I was going to use a Superscale sheet, but AOA timely announced a new A-6 sheet. I reached out to Steve Belanger at AOA and got my hands on a sample I'll be reviewing for SAMI, but I'll most definitely be using them on the build as well. I'll be doing something along the lines of this (though the mission stripe isn't present on the airframe on the sheet), but will be mimicing this weathering I hope: Won't bore you with the ticky tacky stuff, just the important stuff for now. The cockpit is complete. The True Details seats are freaking awesome. Many thanks to Matt for trying them on his build and posting all the pics he did. He sold me on them. Bits of PE dress up the gear. I actually had painted these, but didn't like my washes, so they are being re-done. This is where I was last night before my first bit of work on this one for a good two weeks. The fuselage seam was a PITA. Last night I managed to finish up the outer wings, and got the pylon PE attached and the pylons on the plane. Did some exhaust painting too. I'll get more progress pics up today sometime. Thanks for checking in and comments/critiques are always welcome.
  12. Hello everyone. I just joined and would like to present my version of this kit: I plan to complete it in Gabreski's scheme from July 1944. I intend to add a lot of aftermarket to this big bird. As someone said, "Go big or go home." It is part of a year long buddy build on another forum. I added an Eduard external PE set, Qucikboost resin engine set, Quickboost resin gun tubes, MDC multimedia cockpit (resin and PE), Aires resin wheel bays, and BarracudaCast weighted resin main landing gear wheels. In hindsight, being what it is, this was a daunting task and it's taken almost all of this year to get to this point. There is light at the end of this tunnel too, so mojo is returning, the bench is clearing, and I can see clearly now... Anyhoo...these sets were added to the kit. Quickboost resin engine set Quickboost resin gun tubes MDC Cockpit I got the BarracudaCast wheels, Eduard external PE set, a nice reference book, and a set of nose art decals. I used all but the decals. And there is was also the Aires resin wheel bays (I'll let you guess where I may have gotten them from). So, like most aircraft builds, the office was the first order of business to complete - the cockpit. A resin and PE cockpit. Beautifully cast resin parts that are incredibly crisp and sharp in the details and PE detail for increased crispness. The first challenge was to find a set of instructions that I could read and see where all the parts were supposed to go. Enter email and a message to the folks at MDC - the seat was cracked and improperly cast AND I desperately needed clear color instructions if possible. They sent me a replacement seat at no additional cost - they are in the UK, and I am in the USA. They were also kind enough to send me the digital color instruction sheets. Now I was in business. CA glue of course, used sparingly until I had a few subparts that made a complete cockpit. I airbrushed Model Master acrylic Interior Green as a base coat and darkened it with many light coats of Tamiya XF-1 thinned about 90%. Details were added by handbrushing the radio sets and the various knobs and dials. Drybrushing and a dark brown oil wash completed the cockpit. Matt coated with Testors Dullcote. I think it was a wonderful kit, but it is not recommended for beginners, sorry. Here's how it turned out. First just painted with no finishing. And then in the finished state, another sub-assembly to put to the side for a bit. Then it was time to concentrate on the wheel bays. First clean them up and build them. Then fit them in the wings. This meant removing styrene of course. Yikes! I tried to be precise with the cuts, removing only what I thought was necessary. Many lessons learned here, not the least of which is to be very, even ultraprecise with your destruction of the styrene. Take your time. Lay it out and follow a plan. The old adage - measure twice, cut once rings very true here. At any rate, "Not...too...bad." I thought. So I did the same thing to the other side. Once both sides were fitted, each wheel bay could be painted and finished. Then put aside until final assembly. They are a nice tight fit at the fuselage, on both sides - excellent! Now they need to fit in the wings precisely. Not too awfully bad at all. But, my errant cutting is very obvious now and will need to be dealt with at a later time, once assembled (unfortunately). For now, this will have to do and I can see how the wing roots line up and maybe even button up the fuselage. Great! The wing roots look very tight and even along the entire length on both sides upper and lower surfaces - no filler, I'm thinking. I also know that the underside will be tougher to line up than the upper wing roots. Just the way it is with aftermarket resin and making it fit sometimes. One the bright side, the fuselage matches up nicely. You can see the nice detail in the base Hasegawa kit in a number of these shots. Nice kit right out of the box and somewhat of a sleeper. I made the decision to go whole hog on this build, but it is not needed to complete an awesome and highly detailed P-47. Time for a test fit of the cockpit. What do you think happened? I found it fit very nicely. I was very impressed by the fit. It was so well engineered that there were notches and angles in the resin castings to fit the inside of the styrene! Nice job MDC! And thank you. Looks great too and all the work that has gone into it to this point seems all well worth it. Painted the wheel wells XF-4 and picked out details. I think they look great! Then it was on to the engine. I love round engines. In real life, one of the things I have been is an A&P Mechanic (still certified), and I really enjoy working on and running round engines. In modeling them, i enjoy adding the bits that may not be part of the base engine, like ignition wires, or cross-over tubes. Sometimes the research takes you off on wonderful adventures of learning about radial engines. You can go crazy with details, so I moderated the desire for uber-detailing with what would been seen through the cowling. This particular resin set by Quickboost has wonderful molded detail, as one would expect. This is how it finished up and awaited assembly. Some minor styrene modifications were required of course. Now it was time to play with the external PE set in preparation for buttoning up the fuselage. I then tackled the instrument panel. I was putting this off and putting this off. The MDC set comes with individual instrument decals. Nice details and multiples, but no direction whatsoever. Thank goodness for reference material. Here it is finished and ready to go into the cockpit. One over the top feature of this MDC kit are the individual instrument cans on the back of the IP that you have to glue in place, then drill out either one or two holes, and attach lead wire simulating instrument wiring. Like I said, over the top. The panel itself - the resin - was very thin and warped. Gluing on all those cans helped. Here are all the wires. Fun, fun, fun. At this point, I thought, "What have you gotten yourself into?" My enthusiasm was waning...my mojo! Not my mojo! Yes, I am man enough to say that I had to take a break. The intensity level of this build has now taken its toll. But fear not, I recover quickly. Just as a scale reference and one of the reasons for the sapped mojo. Cockpit sub-assembbly Looks pretty awesome in my book. I am happy with the way this is turning out. Things like test fitting the cockpit with the IP brings back my enthusiasm. So, let's put it together! And there's this really cool PE part that needs to be built and installed. It's really cool, and probably not accurate, also, it was too big..too long to be exact. It kept the canopy from closing fully during repeated test fits of the canopy. So, in the end, it was removed and the kit part used. I show you it here, just because I thought it looked great and I put a lot of effort into it. But, such is the life using aftermarket stuff. Truth is, it won't all fit or look right. This was the instruction: Finally! Some assembly and more visible forward progress. Minor filling needed only...phew! I put the four piece cowling together temporarily with tape, glued all the wings and stabilzers, clamped and rubberbanded, it was left to thoroughly cure for 48 hours or more. Once cured, I set about getting some primer down. Stuffed the holes with tissue - wheel bays, cockpit...etc. Gun tube holes I cut the tips off of toothpicks and stuffed them in the holes. Oh - did I say I was priming with flat black? Well, I did. It really helps with highlights and shadowing without spending hours pre-shading. 72 hours or more to cure. Enamel old school primer from the home and garden super center, in a rattle can. Put together the beautiful resin wheels from BaracudaCast. Then, all of a sudden, I had a bunch of sub-assemblies and other bits and bobs waiting for a painted plane. So, Ocean Gray 2 XF-82 top side and Medium Sea Gray 2 XF-83 under side. Hard edged camo on the wings and stabilizers. That will change. Free hand on the fuselage and softening the hard edges. Now we're finally getting somewhere! ID markings Chipping - I had used Ammo Mig Chipping Fluid prior to the camo colors Decals go on. A bit more chipping. And a bit of weathering on the prop Then a good couple thin coats of Alclad II Aqua Gloss - best stuff out there at the moment for a gloss varnish. Clay-based washes Looking the part a bit more now. External fuel tank - done Time to weather and detail. Getting dirty on a matt varnish with some pigments. Bit of dirt - as in mud too. And now you are all caught up. I know, a lengthy - but enjoyable I hope - build post. Next one will be the reveal. I hope you like it. I thank you very much for taking the time to look. Please comment, or not. I'm pretty thick skinned and never against learning something new that i can incorporate. Thanks again for looking. Scottsville Modeler
  13. Hello fellow GBer's, joining in with Revell's 32nd scale Erla G10. Cockpit is completely out of box apart from the belts. Painted with Tamiya Xf24 with highlights added then sealed with clear. For something different I gave the pit a liberal titanium white oil wash to try and get a more worn/faded look then re cleared. Next a pin wash with black/burnt umber oils to bring out the detail. Detail paint with Tam and Humbrol enamels. Belts made out of lead foil with the buckles from an Eduard seat belt set, painted with Tam buff enamel and washed with the black/burnt umber oils. Flat coat is Testors Dullcoat.
  14. Well, Im calling this one finished. The Build Log is here: http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/3110-special-hobby-132-buckeye/ Its not perfect but I'm about as done as I can be. Somehow the Carpet Monster collected the Nose Pitot so I need to find a replacement. The tail Pitot snapped too but I have some Albion Alloy on order and once it arrives I will make the necessary repairs. Ive seen pictures of repaired paint patches on Greek Aircrfat so I have tried to do a repair patch on the nose too. Clean paint, no weathering. The RBF Tags are in English, I couldn't find any Greek ones, not even sure the Greek ones are in Greek anyway I hope you like and as usual constructive criticism is much appreciated. Jason.
  15. Hi all, After the review I did of the Kitty Hawk F-86D Sabre Dog review I did here: http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/3528-132-kitty-hawk-f-86d-sabre-dog/ and the Ejection Seat here http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/3884-eduard-f-86d-ejection-seat-for-kittyhawk-kit/ and the Seatbelts here http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/3885-eduard-f-86d-seatbelts-fabric-for-kittyhawk-kit/ I figured it was only sensible to actually start the build. So far its just the Seat I have done to tie the two reviews together but once I get to the Eduard Cockpit and Interior review I will start that part of the kit too, its only a couple pictures so far. I build it as per the Eduard and Kitty Hawk instructions, nothing difficult, you just need to be careful aligning everything and making sure you check and double check before you remove any kit parts. Essentially the seat update is the seat sides, some fittings on the seat and it has seatbelts. I however used the Fabric Seatbelt set my first use of these. They went together relatively easy but I didn't realise they had to come off the card backing until the 1st cut. Once that was understood though everything else just fell together with some care taken to thread the belts through the various buckles. The seat was painted as per kit instructions and then washed with some light blue Ammo Wash and a darker wash of grey Paynes oil paint. It was then lightly dry brushed with a later of lightened base coat before being sealed with flat vallejo varnish. The straps were then fitted as per Eduard instructions and the two remove before flight lanyard fitted too, the upper one being attached by a very think length of solder to the seat back. I think it looks ok so far so cant wait to move on to the cockpit and rest of the kit.
  16. Kitty Hawk P-39Q/N Aircobra KH32013 Available from many online-stores around £53.99 The Bell P-39 Airacobra was one of the principal American fighter aircraft in service when the United States enteredWorld War II. The P-39 was used with great success by the Soviet Air Force, which scored the highest number of individual kills attributed to any U.S. fighter type. Other major users of the type included the Free French, theRoyal Air Force, the United States Army Air Forces, and the Italian Co-Belligerent Air Force. Designed by Bell Aircraft, it had an innovative layout, with the engine installed in the center fuselage, behind the pilot, and driving a tractor propeller via a long shaft. It was also the first fighter fitted with a tricycle undercarriage. Although its mid-engine placement was innovative, the P-39 design was handicapped by the absence of an efficient turbo-supercharger, limiting it to low-altitude work. As such it was rejected by the RAF for use over western Europe and passed over to the USSR where performance at high altitude was less important. Together with the derivative P-63 Kingcobra, the P-39 was one of the most successful fixed-wing aircraft manufactured by Bell. The above taken from Wikipedia at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bell_P-39_Airacobra The Kit and Contents. The kit comes in a sturdy box, with some great artwork on the front and sides showing the various painting and markings options. The box isnt particularly large or particularly stuffed with parts and there is some room inside for the parts to move about. The breakdown of the parts in the box is: 8 Standard Grey Plastic Parts, 1 Clear Plastic Parts, 1 PE Fret, 2 decal sheets (one large one small), 1 Set of Instructions with attached painting guides. All the sprues are individually bagged and there are two sprues attached to each other for the grey plastic parts. The plastis seems to be up to the usual Kitty Hawk standard and there is no sign of flash on any of the parts. The clear parts are very clear and come in a protective cardboard box as well as the usual bag. The decals look to be very well printed, in register and there are some really nice schemes included in the kit, more of that later. The small PE fret is a couple of what looks like intake grills and the pilots harness straps. The build is pretty standard in that it starts with cockpit interior, the fuselage and then wings, undercarriage and weapons. Whats different is the location of the engine which is behind the pilot seat and there is a full engine included here in the kit. The usual limitations of plastic are there in the cockpit and some of the smaller parts. The engine looks good and the maybe the engine cover panels themselves could be a little thinner in etch but Im sure the usual suspects will create some update sets for this kit. The Sprues. The 9 sprues are as follows: Sprues A and B: These sprues are joined and they consist of the wings, some undercarriage pieces and the control surfaces for the wings. Sprues C and D: These sprues are joined and consist of cockpit and fuselage interior pieces. Sprue E and F: These sprues are joined and cosist of the Fuselage sides, panels and the the propellor and its spinner (of which there is a choice of two). Sprue G and H: These sprues are joined and they consist of more fuselage interior parts included the engine and its parts. They also include the horizontal tail surfaces and some of the other exterior appendages including bombs. Sprue GP the 'Glass Parts': This sprue is the Cockpit Glass and the side widows for the car style doors. It also includes the anti-collision and wing marker lights. The small PE Fret: This fret has two intake grilles along with the majoirty which consists of the harness straps for the pilots seat. The Decal Sheets: There are two decal sheets. The larger has all of the national and airframe markings along with stencilling. A second smaller decal sheet contains the Artwork shown on some of the schemes along with the cockpit decals for all of the various panels within the cockpit. The Instructions: The Instructions are really clear, well printed and include colour callouts for Gunze Sangyo Mr Color and in some cases RLM which was a surprise to me as none of these aircraft have German Markings. I cant speak to the accuracy of the marking as yet, Ive yet to do any research on these but all of the choices are very colourful and interesting. I can see myself wanting to do a couple of these. The French and Russian ones are particularly attractive to me. The Painting Guidance: As mentioned above there are some great schemes here. The one I do recognise is Snooks 2nd, the only US marking option here. Again all colour callouts are for Gunze Sangyo Mr. Color and RLM (?) so you'll need conversion charts if like me you use other paint manufacturers. The Choice of colourings are: P-39Q-5-BE "Snooks 2nd", 71st TRS 82nd TRG 5th Air Force USAAF, P39Q GC III/6 "Travail", Armee de L'Air, La France Combattante, P39Q-5-BE, 1st AE, 30th GvIAP, 6th IAK. Co of 1st AE 1st.Lt.A.P.Filatov, 1945, P39Q, 1st AE, 213th GvIAP, Co of 1st AE assistant 1st.Lt.M.I.Orlov, Germany, Summer 1945. P39N-1-BE, 9 Gruppo, 4 Stormo, Italian Co-Belligerent AF, June 1944. Conclusion: This is yet another welcome large scale release from Kitty Hawk. The kits just seem to get better and better and with the included engine and schemes I think it will fly off the shelf. Granted the aftermarket will probably release plenty updates for this but one can, I believe, build a great representation of an important and often ignored WWII aircraft type. Highly Recommended to all.
  17. Dear friends I would like to show you our figures in 1/32 scale P.S.We are developing new figures specially for one of the bombers in 1/32 scale WnW
  18. My ultimate Navy aircraft of WWII may surprise some. The OS2U Kingfisher. Don't know why but I love it. Just looks great to me. So, how excited am I that Kitty Hawk just announced that the 1/48 is a mistake, it's going to be 1/32. I don't care what's on the bench, when this comes I'm all over it. What's everyone else think?
  19. 1/32 Mosquito Mk.IV Series II HK Models Catalogue No: 01E015 Available from all good model suppliers priced £149.99 Anyone who, like me, saw this kit at Telford 2014 will have been awaiting this kit with baited breath. Well its here and all I can say is Yes, its as good as one hoped and from handling at Telford expected of this release from HK Models. A certain Japanese company has also announced a Mosquito so its soon to have some company but I think it'll stand up to that if only for some of the major assemblies and their quality. More of that later. The kit arrives in a very shiny, nice artwork adorned, large box. Its very impressive and also has something Ive not seen before as it says its made in co-operation with AK Interactive and the one and only Large Scale Modeller. I think this, if nothing else puts HK Models where most modellers want them and thats listening to their customers. This has to be the future and I can only see HK going from strength to strength by doing this. The box is very full, nothing is going to rattle around in here and get damaged, in fact everything is very well wrapped and contained in plastic bags that support and protect the pieces. Also as this is one of the first run of these kits it comes with a little gift from HK Models. A resin crew thats sculpted by Steve Warillow. More on these later in the review. Kit Contents. The box contains the previously mentioned figures, 28 sprues including the clear ones, a sheet of decals, a small etched fret and the instruction booklet. The instruction booklet is also backed up by a one sheet that covers all colours with reference to a number of paint supplier including AK Interactive and Vallejo. This is a great idea as flipping back and forth in the instruction manual to find that colour chart often gets to be a pain, first world problems I know but when a manufacturer puts so much thought into it one has to give them credit. The Sprues Sprue A: Sprue A is the 1st surprise for those who didnt see the Telford moulds. Yes its a single piece nose as a single moulding. Slide moulded and very high standard its really a lovely piece. I really like the fact that there is a very small mould line that needs a quick waft with a snading stick and its ready to go. This has to be the future. Sprue B: Sprue B continues the surprise. Its a whole single piece fuselage. Again beautifully moulded, only needs a quick waft with the sanding stick and all those old worries about getting rid of fuselage seams is gone. Magic. The seam you see on the side is supposed to be there. These were tape lines on the real thing. These have been added to the kit by, once out by laser etching the kit moulds. This is a first and really adds a touch of class to this part, the other fuselage part and parts of the wings. Sprue C: Well as far as single moulds are concerned, HK have kept the best for last. Both wings, straight through the fuselage, as a single moulding with top and underside all as one piece. Amazing. No other words, you just have to see it for yourself and no picture will ever convey how good this is. Sprue D (x2) on left, Sprue E (x2) on right: Sprue D of which there are two are mostly engine, undercarriage and ancillary parts for those lovely merlin engines and the nacelles in which they are kept. Its all up to the standard of the other mouldings, very good, and looks great on the sprue. Sprue E again of which there are two is the bombs and the underwing fuel tanks. Sprue F (x2) on the left and Sprue G (x2): These sprues are a pair of propellers, 2 of each and of different types. In the instructions G are the ones used and F is for a later release. There are also some smaller nacelle parts here. Sprue H: Sprue H has the Merlin engine nacelles, control surfaces for both wings and tail and some panels for those 1 part wings. Its one of the largest single sprues in the kit. Sprue K: Sprues K and L are more parts to finish of those lovely wings. Sprue M: Sprue M is mostly cockpit parts. What surprises here is the cockpit frame. Its a single piece and has no glass in it, its actually the internal roll cage on the real thing and is a nice touch here. This looks like a great idea and the glass parts are added later so will make painting the roll cage easier and potentially make painting the seperate clear part frames easier too. Sprue N: Sprue N contains more parts to finish off the fuselage itself. Sprue P (x2): Sprue P is the very large (Big Boy?) bomb. Sprue Q (x2): Again more fuselage parts for the engine nacelles. Sprue S: This contains panels for the nacelle sides Sprue T: Sprue T is another sprue with more tail components and some contents of the engine nacelles. Sprues U, V, W and X These are the clear glass components and are primarily for the cockpit, though there are some wingtip anti-collision lights too. Sprue Y: Sprue Y has the exhaust stacks for those 2 merlin engines. Theyre very fine and included hollow ends which should look great under a coat of paint. Sprue Z: This is the final sprue and has the bomb bay doors (there are bulged and non-bulged in this kit depending on the bomb payload) and some of the bomb bay actuator parts. Etched Fret: The single, small etched fret contains the seat straps for both the pilot and co-pilot/bomb aimer. These have great detail in them, sadly for now you'll have to take my word for it as I photgraphed the back, not the detailed front, of them. Doh!!! Decals: The Decals are on one very large sheet, this is very well printed, and includes a full set of stencils for the aircraft. They look to be very well produced and in register. There are 3 attractive schemes included: Marking A: Serial DK296, No.3 FTU, Errol, Autumn 1943 (in Russian Markings), Marking B: Serial DZ637/P3-C, No. 692 Sqn, Graveley, Spring 1944 in night bomber colours, Marking C: Serial DZ627/AZ-X, No. 627 Sqn, Woodhall Spa, Summer 1944 in daytime colours with invasion stripes. Instruction Manual: The very large almost A3 instruction manual runs to 28 pages, including colour schemes and the callouts for the stencilling and decals. I often think that a good instruction sheet makes me want to build a kit and this one certainly does that. And Finally Those Pilots. They are really well sculpted, great poses and will look marvellous next to the kit. I cant wait to paint these. Im not very aware of Steve Warillow and his sculpting work but if everything he does is this good he's a seriously talented figure sculpting master. These will look great under a coat of paint, and I cant wait to try them out. Final Thoughts. Well if you haven't worked it out yet I love this kit. from the advances single piece mouldings, the instruction sheet and throughout the whole presentation it just oozes class and its something that I think will fly off the shelf. It'll be hard to beat and I think at this point anyway it could well be the best 1/32 kit on the market. Its Highly recommended to all and even though its pricey I think it'll give you enough pleasure to justify the price. Thanks to HK Models and Neil Yan for supplying this review kit.
  20. Hello modelling friends, Diving into the unknown here, does anybody know of any good books etc to help me not so much build the kit but to help me paint and weather it. Just love the Russian jets, they get nice and dirty just the way I like 'em . Thankyou for any input. Cheers Bevan
  21. HpH

    1/32 De Havilland DH.103 Hornet HpH Catalogue# HPH32024R Available from HpH €184,00 Some aircraft are born destined for greatness, revered as classics or even given legend status. Aircraft like the Spitfire, Mustang or Zero are part of their respective nations identities and are celebrated in the mainstream by people with relatively little knowledge of aircraft; others have a cult following amongst enthusiast, celebrated by those more informed on such matters. The De Havilland DH103 Hornet is one such aircraft. Effectively a scaled down Mossie it borrowed much from its larger sibling and as such inherited its flying qualities and improved them further, had the war continued it would have taken the fight to the “Japs” as a long range escort fighter. Looking to repeat the success of the Mosquito De Havilland stuck to their proven formula of using bonded wooden composite and developed it further by incorporating aluminium into the airframe such as with the wing spars. Further innovations came from the experience gained with the Schneider Trophy Racers of the 1930’s and this resulted in possibly the tightest most aerodynamic cowling ever fitted to a Merlin powered airframe. Described by Legendary aviator Captain Eric “Winkle” Brown as a Grand Prix racer for the air, it made a huge impression on him and is at the top of his list of all-time greats, no mean feat when you consider that during his illustrious career he flew and tested almost 500 different types! The Hornet went on to serve the RAF well into the mid 50’s until it was unceremoniously scrapped while serving in Hong Kong due to deterioration accelerated by the Far Eastern climate. Sadly this is probably the chief reason we don’t have a surviving airframe, the nearest we have is an excellent cockpit section currently being reproduced using original parts; you can follow the progress here The Hornet has received its fair share of attention from kit manufacturers, with several excellent if challenging kits being produced in 1/48th by Classic Airframes and Dynavector, a more recent release by Trumpeter received a panning from the critics but is a certainly a much easier prospect to build than the Limited run and Vac form offerings. Now HpH come to our rescue with a 1/32 Hornet family, Jim Hatch recently reviewed their DH Sea Hornet NF.21 and gave it the thumbs up, let’s see how its land based counterpart compares. Don’t let the slim yet sturdy box fool you, this is crammed to capacity with some of the best resin I’ve ever had the pleasure to fondle, it’s so tightly packed that after photographing the parts for the review I seriously struggled to get the lid back on! Inside the box we find that everything is carefully swaddled in bubble wrap and after close inspection everything has survived the trip to the UK from the Czech Republic. All the main parts of the airframe have their own compartments and the smaller components are in ziplock bags, on top is a larger ziplock containing the generously sized decal sheet and wallets containing the photoetched parts, HGW laser cut fabric seat belts and CD containing the instructions. Another small ziplock contains the turned metal components BUT NO BELGIAN CHOCOLATE! FUSELAGE Let’s start with the fuselage, this is split vertically in the conventional way and is a significant chunk of resin which I’m told is reinforced with glass fibre; this makes sense as despite being relatively thin the fuselage halves feel rigid without being brittle. As with any resin kit there will be some cleaning up for you to do but HpH have kept this to a minimum and the casting blocks will require little more than a few passes with a fresh scalpel blade, things like the cockpit aperture or openings for the wings are only flashed over with a wafer of resin so clean up time should be too much of chore. Being of plywood construction surface detail is fairly minimal as on the real aircraft, detail such as the cannon access panels on the belly is represented by fine panel lines and rivet detail which is as crisp as you would get from any current Tamigawa offering. Inside there is no detail to be seen as the cockpit sidewalls are inserted once the fuselage has been joined, HpH have thoughtfully included locating holes but you will have to add your own pins to them from plastic rod. WINGS The wings are again a substantial piece of resin and have a very glossy appearance when compared to the fuselage halves; I believe these are also reinforced with glass fibre which is reassuring considering the weight of the completed model. Split into top and bottom halves they have a thin casting block running around their outside but as the waiter in Monty Pythons meaning of life would say “Its wafer thin”! The upper wings have minimal surface detail, due again to the wooden construction, what is provided is to the same high standard as the fuselage and even features subtle raised detail such as where the engine nacelle meets the wing. The inside of the upper wing incorporates the ducting for the carburettor which should look very realistic once the sliding shutter is added from the etched brass sheet, the ribbing for the landing flaps is also cast onto the inner surface. The lower wings give us a little more to look at as the real aircrafts were constructed of Alclad reinforced by extruded Duralumin stringers to provide ridigity, as such the lower wings feature full rivet detail which is superbly done and far subtler than you would see on a Trumpeter effort for example. They also have the same wafer thin casting block around the edges which no doubt prevents any warping during the casting/curing process and certainly makes the parts more robust for postage. The lower wings also incorporate the roof of the undercarriage bay, this is fully detail with the ribbing structure represented and the recess for the wheel itself, as Jim Hatch observed this will only require some hydraulic lines and wiring to make it utterly life like! The wings build up into one piece with a substantial resin spar running the length of the finished component and are designed to slide into the fuselage in one whole piece. ENGINE NACELLES As I mentioned at the beginning the Hornet featured the most tightly fitting cowling of any Merlin powered aircraft and every effort was made to reduce the front cross section to aid the aerodynamics, as is often the case precise engineering makes for beautiful lines; HpH have replicated this perfectly and have really captured the petite lines of the Hornets nacelles. All the catches and access panels are depicted with subtle rivets and recessed panel line detail. These parts feature more flash than any other part of the kit but this seems to be due to the more complex shape of the nacelles, HpH look to of used various casting blocks (most of which they seem to of removed for us) to ensure the shape is not distorted during the casting/curing process. The inner undercarriage bay is represented by raised ribbing and when mated to the wing will look superb, the rear of the nacelle is solid and has a large locating peg to aid with alignment along with locating holes as such we saw on the fuselage. Moving on to the small components, these are spread over four zip lock bags, for simplicity ill describe the contents of each bag rather than trying to group cockpit parts etc. together. All of the smaller parts are cast on a thin wafer of resin (Mr Creosote would approve) which I’m sure is very useful for HpH when mass producing their kits, admittedly this does add some thickness (not even a millimetre )to the parts but this won’t be an issue and only a few parts will need thinning down. BAG A Bag A is mainly cockpit parts such as the side walls, instrument panel and other structures. The cockpit detail is excellent and well on par with an aftermarket set from someone such as Eduard, a resin instrument panel is supplied which is intended to be used with the coloured photo etch and will look very convincing when complete. Other parts include firewalls for the undercarriage bays, matrix for the radiators, landing flaps, exhausts and a superb set of wheel hubs which must surely be the product of 3D printing?! BAG B Literally a mixed bag here! Let’s start with the control surfaces, the tail fin, rudder, tail plane, and elevators are all here and all are separate for those who like to inject some life into their builds, they all feature full rivet detail and recessed panel lines, some cleaning up will be necessary as they all have casting blocks on their leading edges. We also have the spinners and propeller blades which are superbly thin and free from distortion, just take your time when fitting them as the Special Merlin 130 series engines fitted to the Hornet were handed so both propellers could rotate towards the cockpit. Of note are the tyres which again must be tooled using 3D printing?! The tread detail is so fine and well defined it hurts my eyes if I stare at it too long! A pair of bombs is included, undercarriage doors and under wing pylons. The only casting flaw I have noticed on the whole kit is a very slight short shot on the cockpit floor, this won’t be noticeable in the depths of the cockpit and I’m amazed at the quality HpH have achieved. BAG C Far fewer bits in here, the under carriage legs are worthy of mention as they are cast with an integral metal rod which will be a relief with full resin kit! Same goes for the tail strut. Two pilot seats are provided, one in the style also seen in the DH Vampire the other is the more familiar type seen in Spitfires etc. both are commendably thin. We also have the tail fins for the bombs, ribs for the inner surfaces of the flaps, inner hubs to seat the spinners on and some more cockpit details. BAG D Even fewer parts here! The characteristic Drop tanks of the Hornet are produced as one solid piece and have a large casting block to remove, fear not as it’s attached by only thin web of resin. And lastly the resin wing spar which will be necessary to give the required strength to the model and also help with alignment. CLEAR PARTS As you can probably tell from the photos these are beautifully cast and virtually free of flaws! Care will be needed when removing them from the rather large casting blocks, but once separate they are the equal of any injection moulded effort and any minor imperfections will be invisible once given the Johnsons Clear treatment. Wing tip lights are also included although it’s a shame the gun sight lens isn’t included as it is in the Sea Hornet kit. PHOTO ETCH Eduard has handled the etched here and it’s as good as you would usually expect from them, three frets are supplied, two in traditional old skool brass and one nickel plated pre-painted fret. The brass frets handle most of the external detail and larger parts such as radiator matrix and fins for the rockets. The smaller pre-painted fret handles most of the cockpit detail including the buckles for the seatbelts, instrument panel dials and ancillaries. SEATBELTS HpH have also collaborated with HGW who have produced a Hornet specific set of their excellent micro fibre seatbelts, once combined with the etched buckles these surely must be the most realistic solution to scale seat belts! MASKS A modest set of vinyl masks are provided for the windscreen and canopy, you will have to fill in the the centre of the canopy as the masks only cover the edges, the Hornet Canopy isn’t an especially difficult shape to mask but this is a welcome inclusion all the same. TURNED METAL PARTS With Eduard handling the brass and HGW doing the seatbelts it wouldn’t surprise me to hear that Master had a hand in these parts, they certainly appear to be of the same quality as Masters offerings. The warheads for the rockets are turned aluminium and are perfectly finished and ready to paint, the body of the rockets are produced in brass and even have slits on the ends for the etched tail fins. There are some larger brass tubes but I can’t find them in the instructions so they will be resigned to the spares box. DECALS A single decent sized sheet contains all the national insignia and stencils for the two options provided, to me it’s very reminiscent of Eduard’s own decals that they produce for their kits stencils, hopefully they will perform the same way too. All markings are in register with strong colours and even the smallest of stencils is perfectly readable. Two schemes are provided: INSTRUCTIONS HpH provide a CD that contains the instructions in both JPEG format for ease of printing or PDF/Acrobat if that’s your preferred medium. These are very clear and concise and distinguish between etched and resin parts, both colour options are given in profile and top down views. CONCLUSION We’re big HpH fans here at LSM I think that much is obvious! Their previous releases have all been given the thumbs up by us and it’s clear they are at the top of their game, the fact they can produce resin kits that in many ways exceed injection moulded levels of quality and detail blows my mind! Their Hornet is certainly not for the faint hearted but I think it could still be a good choice for your first resin kit if you already have experience working with the medium and a good few kits under your belt, despite the Size and price of this kit once it’s cleaned up it’s a relatively simple model. I have heard a few grumblings about the shape of the nose and windscreen but I’m struggling to see the issue and feel it captures the delicate lines of the Hornet beautifully. I think this is going to have to jump to the top of my stash; you’ll be able to follow the build on the LSM forum. Definitely highly recommended My sincere thanks to HpH for the review sample. To purchase directly, please click THIS link Ben Summerfield
  22. After a long time away from the forum for health problems, I'm back with this old kit Hasegawa P-51D. It's very old kit, with raised lines, poor details and other issues. But as all the old hasegawa kits is accurated. And as I bought some time ago a lot of PEs for this kit, I think I'll get a reasonable result. This is the kit: These are the PE sets that I Have: I'm not intend to use all of them, only the necessary. The remain parts will be left for any other Mustang. I will use too a resin wheel set, by True Details: The version to be executed will be the plane nº44-15569, piloted by Ltn. Roscoe Brown, in the exceptional 322 Squadron, the "Tuskegee Armein" at Lamiteli, Italy, March 1945. The markings will be painted in the kit using a mask set designed by me for this. And to start the kit, I raised the correct lines and removed the rivets of the fuselage and wings, then rebuilding some rivets in the fuselage, as would be the real plane. Then I began to detail the basement of weapons, with the PE set. And as the set only has the machine guns part, I closed the cover of the cartridges because it would be with a much lower quality than the parts with PEs: These PEs caused me a lot of extra work because they are designed to the Dragon Kit. The fitting are poor, and I has to reshape them to fit in the Hase kit. Thias caused some torsion in some PEs. But as the rough parts will be covered with the guns, I left them as is. So I sawed off the flaps to let them lowered. I simply could not resist to start the cockpit assembly, then I solded the PE seat and glued this to the cockpit part. Soon, I will be posting new pictures.
  23. http://www.clubhyper.com/forums/forum.htm Brett Green writes: "This just in from Tamiya. More detail as it comes to hand at the Shizuoka Hobby Show (Marcus Nicholls will be on the ground with the latest news): Tamiya Kit No. 60326 1/32 De Havilland Mosquito FB Mk.VI Availability: July Japanese Retail Price: 19,800 yen (planned) The "Wooden Wonder" makes an appearance in highly impressive 1/32 scale! That was the nickname given to the De Havilland Mosquito series of aircraft, an ingenious and beautiful design which saw the versatile airplane made almost entirely of wood. Its outstanding speed and range ensured that the FB Mk.VI was used in a range of missions, including raids on important targets and infrastructure in the German homeland. It is often said that, until the advent of the Messerschmitt Me262, the German Luftwaffe did not have an adequate response to the "Mossie." About the Model • This is a 1/32 scale plastic model assembly kit. • At 515mm in wingspan, this masterpiece captures the elegant twin-engine form of the FB Mk.VI with astounding detail. This newly-tooled model was researched using real Mosquitos. • The cockpit interior is realistically depicted, right down to details such as the pilot's seat cushion. • The modeler is presented with a number of options in assembly of the kit. • Separate parts recreate bomb bay and wing underside 500lb bombs, plus 50-gallon drop tanks. • 3 figures are included. • Comes with 3 marking options, plus masking stickers. • A 12-page B5 size commemorative booklet includes color photographs and a detailed history of the Mosquito."
  24. Does anyone out there have any line drawings of the F-5E aircraft flown by the Mexican Air Force (FAM) during the 1970's? These aircraft had modified LEX extensions, and a unique fin extension to the vertical stabilizer. I plan on modifying the venerable 1/32 Hasegawa kit, and I want to get it right . I already have the correct ejection sea, FAM decals, and the kit. The unique shark nose is available from Sprue Brothers. I appreciate any help offered. Sgonzo
  25. Kitty Hawk 1:32 F-86D Sabre Dog HH32007 The F-86D - Wikepiedia Entry The North American F-86D Sabre (sometimes called the "Sabre Dog" or "Dog Sabre") was a transonic jet all-weather interceptor of the United States Air Force and others. Based on North American's F-86 Sabre day fighter, the F-86D had only 25 percent commonality with other Sabre variants, with a larger fuselage, larger after-burning engine, and a distinctive nose radome. The Kit. After my review of the Kitty hawk Ov-10D Bronco I was contacted by Glen of Kitty Hawk. He asked what I thought of the plans for the F-86D which of course my reaction was I couldn't wait for it. It's a great looking aircraft, from the classic days of Fighter Jet Development and I was really looking forward to it, especially given a chance to try some Alclad finishes on it. Well I didn't know Glen at the time was from Kitty Hawk so when he asked for my address I was really surprised and when he told me why even more so. So, first of all thanks to Glen for this review sample. Now the box it came in said "Commercial Prototype" and I must say if this is a prototype its a pretty good indicator for what we can expect as it just pops out of the box. I love the cover art, really dynamic with a good realistic look, it also has some nice shots of the various schemes on it (there are 5 to choose from!) and they all look great, more of that later though. The box is standard Kitty Hawk, very well bagged, individual sprues, individually bagged decals and some etch and a box which contains and protects the bagged up clear parts. There are of course also the instructions which are great, easy to read and where necessary colour callouts are in FS and the Gunze Sangyo Mr Color Range, so let's see whats in the box. Kit Breakdown and Instructions. The fuselage is split into 3 here, a forward, centre and rear section, the wings are standard upper lower as are the tail control surfaces. There is a full engine and one could imagine a super-detailer having a ball here, especially if the rear end of the kit is left off. There is no cradle here for the rear end if it is left off but again for a super-detailer that's probably not beyond research and scratch building. There is also a split top and bottom full air intake all the way from the mouth to the engine forward section. The fuselage really hints towards other models and looking at the pre-order releases available on some websites it does look as if a few different models of the Sabre are on their way. Whilst I can't (yet) vouch for the fit all joins in the fuselage fall on panel lines and I don't suppose assembling this kit is beyond the abilities of the readers here. Some care may be required in lining up the sections but again with care and patience I don't see this being a problem. There is also a full radar set under the nose which can be posed open as well as what looks like very detailed, multi part wheel wells and a weapons. Interestingly here the 24 FFAR Rocket pack that was considered more effective against enemy bombers than standard aircraft cannon is replicated, which I think is a nice individual touch for this type. Underwing fuel tanks and early model sidewinders are also available as is open speed brakes on the rear section with a very detailed bay. All very welcome additions Im sure you all will agree. The breakdown of the kit and detail involved looks really good and looks like it'll go together really quickly and easily. Of course this is yet to be proven but I don't think any of it is beyond the skills of readers of this website and the really talented people will have a stunner even if built straight out of the box. So, onto the individual sprues. The Sprues. There are 7 grey plastic sprues, 1 clear and 1 small photo etch. The plastic is I would say of a great standard up there with the best including Tamiya, not particularly soft and not particularly brittle either. The clear parts are crystal clear and there is no sign of flash anwhere, theres also little to no sign of any ejector marks. Where these do necessarily exist they seem to be in areas which are invisible once the kit is complete. Sprue A is the main upper and lower wings and shows that there is scope here for the flaps and every other leading edge or trailing edge control surface to be positioned. The riveting and panel lines here is very subtle and from what I can tell they are all in scale. The detail will just pop under a thin coat of good paint I think. Sprue B has the control surfaces for the wings on sprue A and again the panel lines and rivets are very subtle, again it'll look great under a layer of paint. Sprue C is the front fuselage section along with all the separate panels for this section. Sprue D mostly consists of the engine parts and some of the fuselage elements including the nose radar assembly. Sprue E includes more engine parts, the cockpit and other ancillaries, effectively closing off the forward 2/3 of the airframe. Sprue F is the rear section of the airframe including the rear fuselage, control surfaces and fin with its separate posable rudder. Sprue G is undercarriage bays, weapons, drop tanks and the wheels and wheel gear bay doors. Sprue GP includes the clear parts including cockpit transparencies, anti-collision lights and other clear parts. The cockpit parts here really are 1st class with great rivet detail, no seams to clean up and they are crystal clear. Really nice to see them protected in a dedicated box too. The PE fret is the parts for the cockpit and a few smaller items only really scale correct in PE for the airbrake bays. Decals The main decal sheet is huge, quite literally the full footprint of the very large box. Of course aircraft of this era were very colourful (if only we could say the same today) and with that in mind the register of these decals looks to be up there with the best. The chosen schemes are varied and colourful and I for one can't wait to try the decals out, if I had a preference It'd be the Texas ANG aircraft with its Day-Glo orange panels but I'm sure we can all find a scheme we'd like to build and I'm also pretty sure that the AM market will soon have schemes flying out of warehouses. The available Schemes are: Scheme A: Bare Polished Metal, Red and White of the 82nd FIS (the box art), Scheme B: Bare Polished Metal, Orange and Red of the 325th FIS USAF "Sabre Knights" Aerobatic Team, Scheme C: Bare Polished Metal, Day-Glo Orange of the 181st FIS, Texas Air National Guard, USAF (my personal favourite), Scheme D: Bare Polished Metal, JASDF Scheme, Scheme E: Bare Polished Metal, ROKAF Scheme, Scheme F: Barley Grey FS16440, ROKAF Scheme. Final Thoughts Well I do believe we are really in the golden age of modelling, especially in 1/32. Kitty Hawk has grabbed this by the scruff of the neck and has started producing kits I think we have always wanted and thankfully hasn't stuck to the old favourites we can all name, do we need more Spitfires or ME-109s? I love them both but its time for the more obscure and interesting kits to start flowing I think. On this alone I have to congratulate Kitty Hawk. Who'd have expected 2 years ago a 1/32 Harvard, 1/32 OV-10 of any variant, with more variants rumoured to be coming, or even this Sabre Dog kit. I cant wait personally to see what comes next and whilst Kitty Hawk keep releasing these I think they will keep having a dedicated following of 1/32 modellers. I can't wait to see their upcoming P39Q for instance, Ive hoped for that aircraft in a large scale for some time. The after-market will make a killing here too I'm sure. I don't suppose it'll be long before there is a resin cockpit, some metal undercarriage (it could be a heavy kit so I hope it is coming from someone) and some stunning decal schemes. What would I replace if I could? Well Im a sucker for a good bit of coloured (Eduard?) PE Cockpit and a BrassIn Ejector seat, the rest however would just be polish on an already great kit I believe. So, highly recommended and if it comes in at the price level of the Harvard and OV-10D (circa £50 - £60 is a guesstimate) I'd say this is a must have. I think this just jumped to the top of my build list once my current build is over and that says a lot for me as I have quite a few waiting in the stash. Thanks to Glen at Kitty Hawk for the review kit and I assume it'll be available soon (is already available to pre-order) on any number of good model stockists. Highly Recommended.