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  1. Morning all, Like 99% of those who enjoy building large scale Phantoms, I've been eagerly awaiting a 1/32nd scale RR Spey powered version for as long as I can remember. There is of course the Wild Hare conversion that usually sells for more than my car is worth (on the rare occasion one actually comes up for sale) and rumours are abound that HK were looking at doing one, but I thought life's too short to wait around any longer and it's time to start hacking about at the classic Tamiya F-4J kit. Before I go any further, it's important to say that this is not going to be wholly accurate and the majority of this is being done with the MkI eyeball and approximate measurements. I'm simply not interested in this (or any of my models for that matter!) being accurate to the nearest half-mill, and therefore what you'll see is something that (hopefully) will look like a British Phantom but won't necessarily be the definitive way to go about such a conversion. Lots of inspiration has come from @Wingco57's excellent conversions and you'll undoubtedly notice some similarities between the two! I wasn't going to run a WIP for this as I was concerned about burn-out and failure, but I've actually come a lot further in a short space of time that I had initially anticipated, and I think broken the back of this conversion, so thought I'd share my efforts just in case there's someone else out there considering the same thing... I thought I'd begin somewhere nice and simple, so tackled the belly of the beast and the inlet doors on the underside. The UK Phantoms have these further forward than the US examples, so it was a case of cutting out the new doors in their forward position, and filling the old ones with plastic card blanks: These were then filled, re-scribed and given a quick squirt of primer: Step one complete! The next step was the far trickier intakes. The Speys demanded more air and thus the intakes were significantly wider than the US versions. There is much debate and head-scratching about how exactly the shapes differ, but I've done a bit of digging around and modified mine as I see fit. In 1/32nd scale, my calculations work out that the intakes are roughly 3mm wider at the front than the US examples. Therefore, I sourced some 3mm strip and carefully cut the kit intake sections in half, front to back, adjacent to the grills on the inner edges of the intakes (the pictures will explain this better). Here you can see how much wider the UK version intakes are than the US version - quite a significant gap emerges when test fitted to the unmodified rear sections: To remedy this, the fuselage will of course need widening too, and the shaded area in the picture below shows the section in need of modification: To do this, horizonal cuts are made along the top of the intake trunking, with vertical cuts made to allow the section to be opened up. There is a lower horizontal cut, too, made at the wing root to allow to original kit fixings to mate together for strength whilst allowing the wider intake to slot over the upper wing surface: A wedge of plastic card in then inserted, with the forward-most part being 3mm in width to match the modified intakes: Lots of reinforcement was given to the interior too: I'm going to use FOD guards on mine as life is too short to tackle the notorious intake interiors on this kit, but if you were to have them open a further 'wedge' would be needed to plug the gap seen above. Before I went any further, I wanted to check the modified fuselage would allow the wings to fit - which by luck more than careful calculation they did! The modified intakes were then test-fitted to the modified fuselage: Before they were glued firmly into place and allowed to set for 24 hours: The join wasn't perfect but considering the amount of butchery that went on I was pleasantly surprised. Some Milliput White soon made light work of the affected areas: And after some re-scribing and a shot of primer, things look good! You can see in the picture above I have started work on the back end and opened up the extra doors the Spey versions have on the rear fuselage. I'm going a later version with the pod on the top of the fin, so plans were consulted and a rough shape made for these from plastic card laminates: This still needs an awful lot of refining and surface detail added, but it's a good start. I'm now going to have to concentrate on getting the cockpit done and then I can begin hacking about at the rear end. The Spey exhausts are a fair bit bigger than the US ones, so the hacksaw and filler are at the ready! When done, I'll update this again... All the best, Tom
  2. Hello everyone, time to build this 109 up, going to represent this one: Messerschmitt Bf 109G-6/Late (G-14) "Gustav" "Double Chevron" II./JG 3 "Udet" Schiphol, Netherlands, November 1943 Major Kurt-Werner Brändle Kurt-Werner Brändle (19 January 1912 – 3 November 1943) was a German Luftwaffe military aviator during World War II, a fighter ace credited with 180 enemy aircraft shot down in over 700 combat missions. The majority of his victories - 155 - were claimed over the Eastern Front. he was killed in action west of Amsterdam in the Netherlands. Following an attack by a group of Martin B-26 Marauders on Schiphol airfield, II. Gruppe scrambled to counter the attack. He was shot down in this aircraft - Messerschmitt Bf 109G-6 (Werknummer 26058) by Royal Canadian Air Force (RCAF) Spitfires under the command of Wing Commander Lloyd Chadburn. His body later washed ashore near Zandvoort on 30 December 1943. Brändle was 31 years old
  3. Dear friends! Another two Proper Plane sets Prop And Pipe with Niendorf are released and available for order on our site Prop & Pipe for Junkers D.1 with Niendorf Prop & Pipe for Albatros D.V with Niendorf
  4. Hi all I've put the tiger tank back in the box and I have 2 1/32 kits on the go the first of which is Special Hobby's wonderful tempest kit supplied to me with thanks from Special Hobby and James Hatch thanks guys! So here we go not much to show at the moment but I have started in the very well appointed cockpit will be adding to it over the next couple of weeks So here we go next will be a clear coat and then a little light weathering
  5. Hi All here is special Hobby's Tempest Mk.V Hi-Tech kit Butchered by me, Totally OOB apart from Topnotch Masks for the camo Thanks to James Hatch and Special Hobby Build thread is here
  6. Tamiya A4e 1/32 skyhawk kit converted to RNZAF A4k skyhawk NZ6209. Currently on static display at Ardmore Warbirds hanger Auckland. Aires cockpit, seat, wheel wells. Scratch built instrument panel A few bits and pieces moved around, tail straightened Scratch built intake covers Ladder by Profimodellor Custom decals by Simon Hutton at KitbuilderNZ
  7. Trumpeter 1/32 F105g Custom scratch converted tail Aires Cockpit/ seats/ wheel wells Scale Model Conversion landing gear Some GT resin bits
  8. This is my 1st post with LSM. This project was a commissioned build for a customer in CA, USA. I had built a 1/32 Trumpeter AVG P-40, and a 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1A. So he needed to have the nemesis to these 2 birds so hence came the Zero project. It was built OOB except for the add-on decal sheet by BERNA decals. I have included many of the build photos in this post so you can get an idea of the progression in this build with several of the techniques used. He enjoys WW2 aircraft that are heavily worn and beat up so this build was not exception to that desire. We had a difficult time finding a picture of a Zero in this color scheme (Early IJN Grey/Green) that showed the wear of the green versions, mostly b/c black and white photos do not show the wear as well, and many of these early Zeros were destroyed before they got to this point, or just repainted. We did find a few and I stayed close to the appearance and patterns of wear illustrated in the photographs. Note: The reddish/brown marks are not rust. It is the reddish/brown primer showing through prior to the raw aluminium appearing. Regarding the decals. I was not completely satisfied with the BERNA decals for several reasons. 1. The tail decals required precision cutting to span across the break between the rudder and vertical stab. These decals did not have those cuts and it added a high level of frustration and required patience to try and get this right. I messed up a few times with the cuts. To my surprise the Tamiya decal sheet had the exact same blue stripe for the tail matching the color perfectly with the cuts already made. So I used the Tamiya decal for this purpose. 2. The BERNA decals just would not settle into the fine surface detail anywhere on this kit. I think they were a bit on the thick side. I used multiple solutions to include setting solution and solvents. I tried using a hair dryer on these stubborn decals but they still did not settle well. Also they did not adhere well in general some of them falling off after they dried. After this experience with the BERNA decals I decided to use the Tamiya decals for the remainder of the kit except on the tail, which I had no choice but to use the BERNA set. Regarding the kit in general: 1. Well its a 1/32 Tamiya so I did expect perfection and for the most part I got what I expected. The surface detail is out of this wold and makes this whole kit. You will be able to really notice this high level of detail in the included pictures especially after the various washes were applied to highlight this detail. 2. The kit fit perfectly for 85% of the build. In this area I expected 100% perfection but Tamiya blew it in a few areas. Most of these imperfections were a result of trying to incorporate complicated moving parts using PE as a hinge mechanism. The hinges were steel and strong but to side for many of the applications on the control surfaces and the hinge support for the folded wing options. This made sandwiching these PE parts between part halves very difficult. I ended up omitting this on the elevator surfaces so I did not get any movement. The other surfaces retained their ability to move. The flaps move but just hang down due to gravity. Keep in mind this kit did not require any filler and very little sanding. The tolerance level on this kit, like all the newer 1/32 Tamiya kits are very tight. You must be perfect with assembly or the tight tolerances will bite you in the following steps. Follow the directions perfectly. 3. The retracting landing gear is a gimmick and not worth the effort, and even if you put in the effort it may not work, and/or shortly break when playing with it. The landing gear doors assemblies are the most frustrating part in this build and just do not work well and really hinder the overall build experience. If you have built other 1/32 Tamiya aircraft which followed this kit you will notice that they eliminated most of these sort of features, and the overall assembly experience with those latter kits are much better. I do give Tamiya credit for trying, but they just did not get it right. It is very over-engineered IMHO. 4. Overall, despite a few glitches, it is still a Tamiya kit and well worth the asking price, especially if you get a good deal. I paid under $70 for this kit but needed to wait 2-weeks for delivery from the Asian market. It is a very good value at this price especially considering you do not need any after-market parts to have a highly detailed museum quality model. Highlights are: as already mentioned, the fine, highly detailed surface features; the detailed engine and fit of these parts; the removable engine cowling and its overall fit; the separate control surfaces with/without movement; the highly detailed and complete cockpit detail; crystal clear and perfectly fitting canopy and windscreen; excellent documentation, picture guides, and detailed exact assembly instructions (must follow this closely). I hope you enjoy the summary provided above and the included pictures. Please feel free to comment and express your ideas regarding this build.
  9. Hello all ! First WIP for me here on LSM, very happy to start this build with you. I choose the well know Tamiya Spitfire IXc . I will do this scheme. See you soon for the first step. Clostermann
  10. Thanks for adding me to this forum. This is my build just completed this evening. Tamiya 1/32 P51D Mustang Passion Wagon, using Kits World decals Apart from Eduard Steel Seatbelts and the decals this was OOB. My third and last Tamiya P51 build though I do have a Zukie Mura P51D in the stash to build at some point. Paints: MRP using H&S airbrush with .4 needle and Vallejo for brush painting details. AKI washes and pigments used. There are lots of photos of this aircraft on line but are mostly after D Day. My depiction is before D Day, before a tail fillet was retrospectively fitted and with just 6 kills. Sources are split on whether she had white ID stripes on the wings and I chose to depict her without. I hope you like her.
  11. Trumpeter 1:32 Grumman F4F-4 Wildcat VF-4 USS Ranger (CV-4) Atlantic Early 1942 The Grumman Wildcat began service with the United States Navy in 1940. First used in combat by the British in Europe, the Wildcat was the only effective fighter available to the United States Navy and Marine Corps during the early part of World War II in 1941 and 1942; the disappointing Brewster Buffalo was withdrawn in favor of the Wildcat and replaced as units became available. It had a top speed of 318 mph (512 km/h), the Wildcat was outperformed in the Pacific theatre by the faster 331 mph (533 km/h), more maneuverable, and longer-ranged Mitsubishi A6M Zero. However, the F4F's ruggedness, coupled with tactics such as the Thatch Weave, resulted in a claimed air combat kill-to-loss ratio of 5.9:1 in 1942 and 6.9:1 for the entire war. Often forgot is the USN involvement in the Atlantic theatre, where the Ranger was the largest carrier in the Atlantic after being transferred from the Pacific, deemed to be too old, slow and small. Starting initially with Neutrality Patrols in the area of Trinidad and Tobago. She was heading for her home port at Norfolk in December of 1941 when the Japanese attacked Pearl Harbour. After leaving Norfolk she took up patrol duties in the South Atlantic. From there she moved to more northern duties as an escort carrier although she mainly took part in training exercises. She was also called on to deliver Curtis P-40s to Africa for onward transportation to the famed Flying Tigers. She was first equipped with the Wildcat F4F-3 in December 1940, replaced with the F4F-4s as they become available. The Wildcats didn't see much action until Operation Torch in December 1942 The Wildcat I have reproduced is one of the early deliveries to the Ranger And thus looks very new and clean. Painted with Mr Paint and after market decal from Techmod. The decals, although thin didn't want to pull down with normal setting solution so in the end I ended up carefully applying Tamiya X20A thinner to gather to pull down into the detail. The base is one provided for review by Costal Kits being one of their new circular range available in 200mm and 300mm diameters. Thanks for looking
  12. Hello, the beauty is finished ... I love the Mosquito as one of the most beautifully shaped airplanes ever.... she has a kind of elegance in her shape ... Kit is from Tamiya in 1/32 with many, many parts, great fit, great quality, great details, great manuals, great ..... a fantastic kit of a huge model! I have added some photo etched parts from Eduard, some new decals for the stencils and markings (Canadian Airforce with beautiful nose art) and some resin parts. Painting was done with Lifecolor-colors mainly, plus AK Interactive. Weathering with oil colors, pigments, ... I hope that you like it! Cheers Micha
  13. Hi all, I have started my first 1/32 fw 190. With the Hasegawa A8. Kit was purchased with a broken front windshield (2 half's) but I have inserted new window and fixed this issue. I will be using the MDC cockpit set, tamiya acyclic paint mixes. My own stencils and decals,and I will rivet this beast OMG. The ride is Major Walther Dahl's A8 Finsterwalde/Germany, 11th September 1944 in colours RLM 74, 75 and 76. So I have just finished the cockpit pit, I have had some difficulties with fit,but with the great detailing it was a small sacrifice to make good, so here goes.
  14. All done... http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/5063-revell-bf-109-g6-erich-hartmann/?do=findComment&comment=64760
  15. Gi Guys, It has been a while sins I have been on the site. But I am to restart my conversion of the Hasegawa Fw-190 D-9 into a D-11 with a Renaissance conversion for a D-13. I was building this in the Arrow Wolf'sFocke Wulf GB in 2013/2014. When I was doing a Fw-190 A5 on a other site did I came across this model again. So I picked this one up as well and do a duo build there. I will start here the update as well. Here are some pictures of the model how she was before the restart. the box. The decals from Eaglecals The Renaissance conversion set. And some pictures of the old build. And now the pictures of what has been done last week. I painted the cockpit tub. What a great looking set is this from MDC. The tub was put into the fuselage. The seat still needs to be done.But I will do that later. After the tube was placed wasit time to cleane up all the seams on the wings and the tail. That done was it time to mate the wing to the fuselage. That is it for now. I hope to set further next week. Cheers,
  16. Hi guys, Here is a model I have been working on for the last month after it was putted by me on the shelf of shame a couple of years ago. I finally finished this one today. The 21st Century models Macchi 205 is a little crude, but the form is good and quite easy to build I did made some modifications to it. the wheels and exhaust where the worst, so I replaced them. the wheels are from the spare parts box and the exhausts are from Quickboost for a Bf-109 G. Here are the pictures. [/url] Cheers, Edit: I forgot about the spinner. It is one from a old 1/32 Revell Beafighter. It was a little bit reprofiled on the tip.
  17. Hi Guys, Here is a build of a 1/32 Hasegawa Fw-190 A5 into a A5/U12. I builded it in the colours of a ace of the western front. He flew this plane at 2./JG11 in the Autumn of 1943. on 8 October 1943 he was shot down in this plane and was heavy wounded, but he recovered and flew in the last period of the war on Me-262's with JV44 from Adolf Galland near München. He did survive the war. The U12 stands for Umrüstungssats 12(conversion 12). The conversion are two gun packs with both 2 MG 151/20 in it. They are meant to deal with the American bombers that got in a big force over Germany. This also increased the armament of the A5 to 6 x 20 mm guns and 2 x 7,92 mm MG 17's. I have also used on this build a wheel set from True details, some gun barrel tips from a left over set from Master and a resin seat from ??? The gun barrels for the 20 mm guns were all made from brass tubing. Here are some pictures of the model. Cheers, Arnold
  18. Erich Hartmann's mount. Completely OOB. Gunze aqueous paints, thinned with Gunze leveling thinner. Testor's acryl flat coat. Delightful build with no reportable vices!
  19. Revell He-162 with Aires cockpit. The cockpit was a bit of a bear to get "seated" despite the fact that I scraped away all existing kit side wall detail to such an extent that I left the fuselage at near-paper thinness. RLM76 underside and RLM02 wheel wells painted with Vallejo Air (my first and last time using them). I know others love them but i just couldn't get the hang of them; I experienced constant airbrush clogging with them. In fairness though, the finish was quite good. Decals were from the kit and were excellent. I'd like to build this kit again but completely OOB. I also added a bit of plumbing on the engine, though certainly not as much as on the real thing.
  20. Here's my entry for a wonderful GB on yet another forum which theme is; "The name of the subject needs to have an animal in it...". The options are endless, and I decided to dive into the stash and grab one of my antiques. And I have plenty of antiques to chose from... But only one that ticks all of my -and- all of the GBs boxes... Matchbox kit? Check. 1/32 scale, and thus a nice big canvas to work with? Check. Room for improvement with minimal scratchbuilding? Check. Fits into the GB? TRRRRRIPLE CHECK BABY!! Tiger >> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tiger Moth >> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moth Tiger Moth >> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garden_tiger_moth It's three times the animal it needs to be! Yummy multicolour box content. Matchbox was doing MCP before it was cool. Eat that, Academy! Decal sheet... and they look like they might (being very cautious here...) still be usable... Trees... lovely crisp parts, no hint of flash on anything. One of the advantages of using an early boxing! I -had- one of the Revell reboxes in the stash, and that one had a lot more flash and sinkmarks. And even if it didn't have a decal option for the floatplane version, it did have a nice Dutch decal option... oh well... Classic Matchbox instructions. Gotta love them, sooo much nostalgia! But the Revell instructions I downloaded have a nice bonus; loads of rigging help! And trust me, I need all the help I can get when I'm rigging... I want to try to build this OOB as much as I can. Perhaps some harnesses and some tinkering with the engine, but nothing major. I will be working on this one whenever the Wendover build grinds to a halt for whatever reason. Good way to keep sane... (I hope) More soooon! Rob
  21. Great news on the jet-front: http://www.italeri.com/news_scheda.asp?idNews=643 http://www.italeri.com/imgup/Preview%20Italeri%202016%281%29.pdf
  22. I am curious--how do you fellow builders display your finished kits? I would hang them, but I don't want them getting full of dust. I am debating getting an old glass display case to put mine in. I also am considering adding wooden bases and making acrylic boxes to cover them, and have seen some tutorials on the web to do this. Are there any other ideas or tips out there? Tom
  23. Hello everyone. I just joined and would like to present my version of this kit: I plan to complete it in Gabreski's scheme from July 1944. I intend to add a lot of aftermarket to this big bird. As someone said, "Go big or go home." It is part of a year long buddy build on another forum. I added an Eduard external PE set, Qucikboost resin engine set, Quickboost resin gun tubes, MDC multimedia cockpit (resin and PE), Aires resin wheel bays, and BarracudaCast weighted resin main landing gear wheels. In hindsight, being what it is, this was a daunting task and it's taken almost all of this year to get to this point. There is light at the end of this tunnel too, so mojo is returning, the bench is clearing, and I can see clearly now... Anyhoo...these sets were added to the kit. Quickboost resin engine set Quickboost resin gun tubes MDC Cockpit I got the BarracudaCast wheels, Eduard external PE set, a nice reference book, and a set of nose art decals. I used all but the decals. And there is was also the Aires resin wheel bays (I'll let you guess where I may have gotten them from). So, like most aircraft builds, the office was the first order of business to complete - the cockpit. A resin and PE cockpit. Beautifully cast resin parts that are incredibly crisp and sharp in the details and PE detail for increased crispness. The first challenge was to find a set of instructions that I could read and see where all the parts were supposed to go. Enter email and a message to the folks at MDC - the seat was cracked and improperly cast AND I desperately needed clear color instructions if possible. They sent me a replacement seat at no additional cost - they are in the UK, and I am in the USA. They were also kind enough to send me the digital color instruction sheets. Now I was in business. CA glue of course, used sparingly until I had a few subparts that made a complete cockpit. I airbrushed Model Master acrylic Interior Green as a base coat and darkened it with many light coats of Tamiya XF-1 thinned about 90%. Details were added by handbrushing the radio sets and the various knobs and dials. Drybrushing and a dark brown oil wash completed the cockpit. Matt coated with Testors Dullcote. I think it was a wonderful kit, but it is not recommended for beginners, sorry. Here's how it turned out. First just painted with no finishing. And then in the finished state, another sub-assembly to put to the side for a bit. Then it was time to concentrate on the wheel bays. First clean them up and build them. Then fit them in the wings. This meant removing styrene of course. Yikes! I tried to be precise with the cuts, removing only what I thought was necessary. Many lessons learned here, not the least of which is to be very, even ultraprecise with your destruction of the styrene. Take your time. Lay it out and follow a plan. The old adage - measure twice, cut once rings very true here. At any rate, "Not...too...bad." I thought. So I did the same thing to the other side. Once both sides were fitted, each wheel bay could be painted and finished. Then put aside until final assembly. They are a nice tight fit at the fuselage, on both sides - excellent! Now they need to fit in the wings precisely. Not too awfully bad at all. But, my errant cutting is very obvious now and will need to be dealt with at a later time, once assembled (unfortunately). For now, this will have to do and I can see how the wing roots line up and maybe even button up the fuselage. Great! The wing roots look very tight and even along the entire length on both sides upper and lower surfaces - no filler, I'm thinking. I also know that the underside will be tougher to line up than the upper wing roots. Just the way it is with aftermarket resin and making it fit sometimes. One the bright side, the fuselage matches up nicely. You can see the nice detail in the base Hasegawa kit in a number of these shots. Nice kit right out of the box and somewhat of a sleeper. I made the decision to go whole hog on this build, but it is not needed to complete an awesome and highly detailed P-47. Time for a test fit of the cockpit. What do you think happened? I found it fit very nicely. I was very impressed by the fit. It was so well engineered that there were notches and angles in the resin castings to fit the inside of the styrene! Nice job MDC! And thank you. Looks great too and all the work that has gone into it to this point seems all well worth it. Painted the wheel wells XF-4 and picked out details. I think they look great! Then it was on to the engine. I love round engines. In real life, one of the things I have been is an A&P Mechanic (still certified), and I really enjoy working on and running round engines. In modeling them, i enjoy adding the bits that may not be part of the base engine, like ignition wires, or cross-over tubes. Sometimes the research takes you off on wonderful adventures of learning about radial engines. You can go crazy with details, so I moderated the desire for uber-detailing with what would been seen through the cowling. This particular resin set by Quickboost has wonderful molded detail, as one would expect. This is how it finished up and awaited assembly. Some minor styrene modifications were required of course. Now it was time to play with the external PE set in preparation for buttoning up the fuselage. I then tackled the instrument panel. I was putting this off and putting this off. The MDC set comes with individual instrument decals. Nice details and multiples, but no direction whatsoever. Thank goodness for reference material. Here it is finished and ready to go into the cockpit. One over the top feature of this MDC kit are the individual instrument cans on the back of the IP that you have to glue in place, then drill out either one or two holes, and attach lead wire simulating instrument wiring. Like I said, over the top. The panel itself - the resin - was very thin and warped. Gluing on all those cans helped. Here are all the wires. Fun, fun, fun. At this point, I thought, "What have you gotten yourself into?" My enthusiasm was waning...my mojo! Not my mojo! Yes, I am man enough to say that I had to take a break. The intensity level of this build has now taken its toll. But fear not, I recover quickly. Just as a scale reference and one of the reasons for the sapped mojo. Cockpit sub-assembbly Looks pretty awesome in my book. I am happy with the way this is turning out. Things like test fitting the cockpit with the IP brings back my enthusiasm. So, let's put it together! And there's this really cool PE part that needs to be built and installed. It's really cool, and probably not accurate, also, it was too big..too long to be exact. It kept the canopy from closing fully during repeated test fits of the canopy. So, in the end, it was removed and the kit part used. I show you it here, just because I thought it looked great and I put a lot of effort into it. But, such is the life using aftermarket stuff. Truth is, it won't all fit or look right. This was the instruction: Finally! Some assembly and more visible forward progress. Minor filling needed only...phew! I put the four piece cowling together temporarily with tape, glued all the wings and stabilzers, clamped and rubberbanded, it was left to thoroughly cure for 48 hours or more. Once cured, I set about getting some primer down. Stuffed the holes with tissue - wheel bays, cockpit...etc. Gun tube holes I cut the tips off of toothpicks and stuffed them in the holes. Oh - did I say I was priming with flat black? Well, I did. It really helps with highlights and shadowing without spending hours pre-shading. 72 hours or more to cure. Enamel old school primer from the home and garden super center, in a rattle can. Put together the beautiful resin wheels from BaracudaCast. Then, all of a sudden, I had a bunch of sub-assemblies and other bits and bobs waiting for a painted plane. So, Ocean Gray 2 XF-82 top side and Medium Sea Gray 2 XF-83 under side. Hard edged camo on the wings and stabilizers. That will change. Free hand on the fuselage and softening the hard edges. Now we're finally getting somewhere! ID markings Chipping - I had used Ammo Mig Chipping Fluid prior to the camo colors Decals go on. A bit more chipping. And a bit of weathering on the prop Then a good couple thin coats of Alclad II Aqua Gloss - best stuff out there at the moment for a gloss varnish. Clay-based washes Looking the part a bit more now. External fuel tank - done Time to weather and detail. Getting dirty on a matt varnish with some pigments. Bit of dirt - as in mud too. And now you are all caught up. I know, a lengthy - but enjoyable I hope - build post. Next one will be the reveal. I hope you like it. I thank you very much for taking the time to look. Please comment, or not. I'm pretty thick skinned and never against learning something new that i can incorporate. Thanks again for looking. Scottsville Modeler
  24. Hello fellow GBer's, joining in with Revell's 32nd scale Erla G10. Cockpit is completely out of box apart from the belts. Painted with Tamiya Xf24 with highlights added then sealed with clear. For something different I gave the pit a liberal titanium white oil wash to try and get a more worn/faded look then re cleared. Next a pin wash with black/burnt umber oils to bring out the detail. Detail paint with Tam and Humbrol enamels. Belts made out of lead foil with the buckles from an Eduard seat belt set, painted with Tam buff enamel and washed with the black/burnt umber oils. Flat coat is Testors Dullcoat.
  25. Well, Im calling this one finished. The Build Log is here: http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/3110-special-hobby-132-buckeye/ Its not perfect but I'm about as done as I can be. Somehow the Carpet Monster collected the Nose Pitot so I need to find a replacement. The tail Pitot snapped too but I have some Albion Alloy on order and once it arrives I will make the necessary repairs. Ive seen pictures of repaired paint patches on Greek Aircrfat so I have tried to do a repair patch on the nose too. Clean paint, no weathering. The RBF Tags are in English, I couldn't find any Greek ones, not even sure the Greek ones are in Greek anyway I hope you like and as usual constructive criticism is much appreciated. Jason.
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