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Found 19 results

  1. Up next is a German panzer 4 ausf H. I'm pretty sure this is the H variant although it's labeled as G on the box This model is from the maker ZVEZDA I haven't made any models from this company before but they looked pretty good and had decent reviews so I thought I'd give one a go. Pictures of the box. Whitch is more of a cover as all the model is in a plain cardboard box inside this Pictures of the parts and frames.
  2. This is the Tristar Pz.Kpfw. IV Ausf. B modeled as a vehicle during the Polish Campaign in 1939. Not the most easy kit to build, but the suspension is very well done and in the end, I think the kit looks good despite some frustrating areas.
  3. 1/35 Dora Railway Gun Soar Art Workshop - Metal Troops Creation Catalogue # MT 9511 Currently out of production, but soon to be re-released. Approximately £500 retail There are plastic model kits, and then there are plastic model kits... this one, claiming to be the biggest in the world is something to behold. The packaging is absolutely massive and the total kit weighs around 24 KG!! Here is a picture of the huge box, that door behind the box is 2ft 6" wide. Note the Tamiya paint pot at the bottom to give an idea of size. As mentioned above, this kit is not currently available at the time of writing, but it will soon be available again through all the major kit suppliers. Obviously the kit is available now on E-bay, with a very wide range of selling price... Postage can be very expensive, so check the kits location before bidding.... The kit is advertised as having over 3000 parts, well, I've counted them, and can confirm there are no less than 3315 parts including plastic, PE, wire, screws and springs. The model is packaged in plastic bags, all labelled to describe what is in the bag, these bags are found in four boxes within the large outer box, each box is labelled to describe what bags are in the box. There are no fewer than 91 sprue's in the model, not including the large parts which aren't mounted on a sprue. There are large PE parts to depict the grids on the second level rail cars and some grating around the rest of the model. We also have three springs, a large bag of screws and some wire for the cranes. As already mentioned, this kit is massive and as a result will require an age to review properly, so I'll do this one in stages, starting today with the instruction manual presentation and the rail cars. The manual is supplied as a 284 x 210mm book, containing 38 pages and 31 build stages and made using very high quality paper. When we open the book up we find some great information all about the Dora railway gun. I have included some pictures of the pages here, for discussion only. On pages 3, 4 and 5 we find some great pictures which will help you superdetail or correct the kit. Page3.. Page 4.. Page 5.. So moving on to the kit itself, we will see we have many many parts moulded in black plastic. It is worth noting that the plastic used in the manufacture of this kit requires some pretty strong glues to make it melt. Your usual Tamiya extra thin or Humbrol liquid poly will apparently not work... I use this Plastruct liquid poly or EMA plastic weld when I am in doubt about the materials suitability to the other glues.. It is very strong and will melt pretty much all plastics. I would not recommend using superglue to assemble this kit, due to the brittleness of the product. EMA plastic weld.. Another note about the plastic.. it is greasy and will need to be washed in the bath tub with some washing up liquid and warm water. If you use acrylic paints, it will not stick to the parts if not washed first. We start the building of the kit with the rail cars. There are four rail cars supplied, each with 10 axles and a total of 20 wheels each. The main chassis of each car is made up of four parts each, left and right sides and two floor sections, top and bottom.. There is some nice detail on these parts, with bolt heads and rivet detail nicely done.. OK, let's get something straight.... all this is wrong!! The real gun had eight cars, each with five axles and ten wheels.....the way the kit is made, the gun would never go round a bend, which, considering a curved piece of track was used for aiming the gun laterally, is a big mistake to make. These sections will need to be cut in half and the pivots need to be moved outwards to place them centrally over the middle axle. if I actually build this beast, I will do a WIP here on LSM...then I'll be able to demonstrate what I'm talking about here. There are no less than eighty wheels in the kit.. Moving on to the sprue's, here we have sprue B, with 34 parts on it.. Those 12 off hand wheels go all along the sides of the model. each one will need to be cleaned up, thankfully the mould seam lines are very faint. There are no less than 20 of these sprue's in the kit!!! Yes, there are 240 of those hand wheels!!!! The kit contains three of these C sprue's, with the flooring parts attached.. The wood grain is nicely done.. will look great under some careful painting and weathering.. There are another 29 of the C sprue, without the wood floor parts... yes I said 29!!! Sprue D covers most of the parts around the endplates, rail car linkages and electric motors. There are "only" 4 of these sprue's in the kit. The detail is nice on the endplates.. shame about the ejector pin marks though. More nice detail on a gear cover part.. Just as a little treat, I thought I'd show you the barrel, here shown against a 1/35 Morser Karl Gerat, which I've nearly finished. These parts go end on end together, but there is an error in the length, apparently the barrel is approximately 300mm too long?? Back to the rail cars, we'll have a look at the instructions... this is stage one, the start of the braking mechanism.. all very similar to the trumpeter kit parts for the Leopold and Morser Karl Gerat. This is all a little beefier than the Trumpeter parts, I guess it had to carry a LOT more weight!! Continuing through the book... Building up the chassis... Apparently the track needs to be narrowed to be more accurate and fit the Trumpeter track?? Buffers... Finishing up and starting to move onto the second level car... Due to the errors in the kit, I have bought this book by Gerhard Traube, which is apparently the best book out there on this subject? it is currently out of print, but is available from book dealers used. it is quite pricey though... Here's a sample of the kind of images you get in this great book, it covers other railway guns including the Leopold. This image is for discussion only... Ok, so now we have seen the actual rail cars themselves, and had a quick look at my lovely new book. It's now Monday Feb 10th, and I'm adding some more info, this time covering the finishing off of the rail cars and adding the next step up, what I'll call the bogies. There are four of these, each of which connects two of the rail cars together, (if you've modified your model to correctly depict the eight cars). So, here we are with the four "bogies". They are each a single moulding and all have some nice detailing especially the recessed bolt/rivet heads which will be visible under the PE grilles you'll see in just a minute... Soar Art supply some PE grilles in the kit, which are intended to cover the "bogies" and some other smaller pieces dotted elsewhere around the gun.. the PE is supplied in a stiff card envelope for protection. It appears to be made of stainless steel so will remain very rigid. There are four of the larger pieces... Ok, what I'm going to now for the next few shots is just select the Sprue's that the instructions call up for the relevant steps in the instructions, so will now see many parts that are not applicable to the bogies or rail cars... We'll get there eventually, as I mentioned earlier, there are no less than 91 Sprues in this mammoth kit, that doesn't include the larger parts which don't have a sprue!! This is sprue P, 1-29. The way the sprue's are identified is unusual in this kit, for example there are three P sprue's each carrying different numbers, so we have 1-29, 30-38 and 39-53. We will only use a few of the smaller parts in the bogies, as most of the parts on this sprue are for the interlocking mechanism between the two halves of the main gun structure. We get eight of these in the box... Here's a close up of some of the nice bolthead detail on the sprue P1-29. Next up we have sprue R 21-46. There are four of these sprue's in the box. Again, only some of the smaller parts and small railings will be used here. Here we can see the smaller detail parts of this sprue... Now we look at sprue O20-49, where we will get a couple of small parts from for the windy handle (I assume it's a parking brake?) on the rail cars and some more wooden planking. Two of these are in the kit. Not relevant to the rail cars or bogies, but this is a massive solid lump, which will form part of the mechanism locking the two sides of the gun together. Have a look at the original photograph on page 5 of the instructions above, this part can be clearly seen in the middle picture. Sprue N 1-6. we will use parts 3 and 4 from this sprue. Said parts... Sprue S 15-22. Only the planking is used from this one... We may as well have a look at the grid detail here..quite nice for an old kit.. I think I'll add to or replace it with wire mesh?? For the final sprue today we look at sprue R 1-20. We get two of these and it is one big sprue, measuring nearly 600mm wide!! More grid detail.. The instructions are shown here, with the stages required to finish up the rail cars and bogies... So, that's the rail cars and bogies finished.. next we will move on to the actual gun pivot structures, the triangular sections at the top of the massive structure.. I shall continue this review in the forthcoming weeks so please keep looking back here if you have an interest in this lovely kit... Thanks to my pocket for this one!!
  4. After finishing the German railcar, I decided that I should maybe do a British tank transporter. Plus this way I could join in with all the heavy equipment that's being built. I've got the Thunder Models Scammell kit. Here's the bit of AM that I have for it. There's not a lot out there. I had hope to find some suitable crew figures but haven't had any luck. Assembly starts with the trailer deck. The deck is one piece and you assemble the frame underneath it. The mouldings are quite thin which is nice. Most ejector pin marks are raised so are easily sanded/scraped off. The plastic and the way the sprues are numbered remind me of a Kitty Hawk kit. Here's the frame partly assembled. The front has a pulley that due to a sink mark, the pin to mount it in place ended up too short. I simply drilled it out and use a 1 mm diameter plastic rod to replace it. There are some outer cross braces. These help align the frame rail in the right spot on the deck. I found a bit of clamping was needed while the cement dried. But other than that, the frame goes together nicely. Thankfully it's regular styrene too so no gluing issues.
  5. I decided to build something completely different and started on this rail car It cames as a limited edition release with the Takom Jagdpanther which I'll build at a later date. Sabre Models is a company I haven't come across prior to this kit. Like many new(ish) model companies, it's out of China. Construction started with the deck of the rail car. The deck itself is four sections that butt together to form the complete length. Four full length frame supports are then added. One thing I noticed when sanding off the sprue gates was that the kit is almost certainly moulded in ABS plastic versus the usual styrene. Thankfully Tamiya Extra Thin worked fine. I then added the cross beams to the deck. Then the short end supports were glued in place. So far the fit has been great and I haven't had any issues. As I figured it would be easier, I painted everything up to this point using Tamiya German grey as I figured I'd have easier access to it. So that's where I am after about an hour's work. Carl
  6. Ok I guess it's time I started a thread on this build since it's gone beyond just a set of tracks. I picked this up since it looked like an interesting kit and both and the Modelkasten tracks were on sale. Knowing that the tracks would be the stumbling block, I decided to start with those. Modelkasten gives you a jig to help assemble them. You remove the track links from their sprue, palace them in the jig and then insert the individual pins into each one. To make things easier, the pins are on those long sprues and once glued in place, just trim them off. Otherwise, here's a pin on its own. I spread out the track building over a couple days and did them in 20 link sections. Each side has 94 links. Here's the leftover sprue gates from once the tracks were done.
  7. Ok, I've pretty much finished off everything on my bench of late that was close to being finished: - Millennium Falcon - Y-Wing fighter - Toyota Celica WRC rally car So here's what I'm hoping will be a quick build with minimal AM. I think the only AM I have is from Dragon itself. I got started by following the instructions (!). Blasphemy, I know. I installed all the suspension arms, making sure I used the correct ones for the steel wheels at the rear. Then I started prep on all the road wheels. And that was the end of day 1.
  8. Hi, am just back off holiday and ordered these for my first ever group build. I was looking for inspiration and found this photo, it was taken in Italy, but I am transplanting to Normandy. I will park the Carrier to the rear of the house. Really looking forward to the build. I just have a few bits to finish on two others and then this is next on the list. Cheers Kev
  9. Its time for my clubs annual Build the Same Kit competition, and the Armour subject is Meng's Panther Family. Which works out great as it ties in nicely with the GB here! Meng's fantastic Panther Ausf. D kit built as '219' of I./SS-Pz.Rgt 12 in Fonteny-le-Pesnil area of Normandy sometime between 9-11 June 1944. Huge thanks to Sam Dwyer, who has been more than helpful, pointing me in the right directions and the discussion in 219 ridge-less zimmerit. Zimmerit was added by using Tamiya's Polyester 2 part putty, slapped with an old toothbrush. The tracks are MasterClub, and Meng's Suspension kit has been used, which will help to get that weighted sit once a base is made for it. Still have a few tools, cables and chains to fit, and chipping of some zimmerit areas. But it's getting closer to paint. Ba'sz Photo collage of '219' on Flickr - https://flic.kr/p/rqgrMY
  10. Ok, I couldn't wait for the D-Day GB to start and got a bit ahead of myself. This is the Miniart Dingo scout car. I tried to build one a few years ago and have up after seeing the number of parts involved in the suspension. That first try got binned but I still had a second one in the stash. So I figured I'd try again.
  11. Well it seems I have a bad case of squirrelitis as I've pulled yet another kit out of the stash and I'm, started it. The plan is to do it OOB and just get her done from start to finish. Well, that's the plan. Carl
  12. I am sure most of you are in the same position... Trying to finish those last projects for 2018! I just managed to knock this one off a few moments ago that I started back in March. As per normal.. Family life, work and another round of back surgery have keep me busy. Having some free time today, I picked this one up an managed to finish it was it was pretty much weathering that I had to complete. It's my 4th Tank I have ever built. Tamiya's 1/35 Jagdpanzer IV /70 Lang. Built from the box, but I did use Kaizen tracks. Painted using Mission Models Paints, Camo was painted free hand. and weathered using AK Interactive Washes and Pigments.
  13. So, after having gotten sucked into a Leopard C2 with way too much AM (Voyager PE, Legend resin bits, etc,) I decided to start something quick and easy. Pretty much one colour, no AM, and a reasonably low parts count. I don't have too many pics as it just went together how I wanted. Nice and easy. The plastic is two colours for some reason but the fit is fairly decent overall. The smoke grenades are partially buried in the turret sides so those had to be painted before I glued the turret halves together. Where I am as of last night. It's almost done except for the on vehicle tools, lights, and decals. I should have it done shortly I hope. Carl
  14. Hi all this is my first build on here so I thought I'd bring some armour to the party Italeri's 1/35 Tiger 1 I'm planning to do a Normandy or Italy tiger to go with a Sherman firefly I have to build
  15. I was tinkering away with this one in between other builds. It's a straight from the box 1/35 Tamiya kit and although a little long in the tooth now, stands up pretty well, except for the figures, they aren't the best when compared to Dragon.
  16. Bronco Airspeed A.S.51 Horsa Glider Mk.1 Available from many online-stores around £109.99 The Horsa was a troop carrying glider of World War 2 built by Airspeed, a company associated with small trainers and sports aircraft. Designated the AS51 the Horsa was built to a 1940 specification for a 25 seater glider for use by Airborne forces. An order for 400 aircraft was placed February 1941, with fuyll production beginning in February 1942. By this time orders had reached 2345 aircraft. Much of the production was sub-contracted to furniture manufacturers who built the glider in sections and which were transported to Airspeed for final assembly. The Horsa was used by both British and American Airborne Forces in all operations from 1942 to the end of the war. It was also used to carry jeeps and small artillery pieces. The Horsa Mk 1had a wingspan of 27m and a length of 20m, loaded weight was 7,000k. it was normally towed by a four engine bomber such as a Short Stirling or Handley-Page Halifax due to the weight. But the smaller C47 Dakota was often used in large operations as not enough bombers where available. The Kit and Contents. This kit is BIG, the large, packed box screams size. From the thick cardboard box itself, the very well illustrated box top and the large cardboard protective packaging everything is on a big scale with this kit. The contents consist of: 18 regular grey sprues, 3 clear sprues, 1 heavy nose weight in its own protective box, 1 small etched fret, 1 set of self adhesive vinyl window masks, 1 sheet of decals, A really nice piece of artwork that matches the box art (a nice touch I think). There is a lot of plastic here, it took me over an hour to photo it all, and it all looks well cast with no noticeable flash. There are some prominent pin marks from the moulding pins on some of the larger pieces but they do seem to be in places where they will either be covered by other parts and most looks easy to deal with where they are not. The kit looks to have a decently detailed cockpit (moulded in seat harnesses) though I'm sure the aftermarket people will be out with some updates soon. There is also what looks like a very detailed hold space along with a large port side cargo door that can be posed either open or closed along with a smaller what looks like personnel entry door at the rear. The fuselage looks to be built as per the real thing with an inner tube of supports, bracing and floor/roof components. Added to this are the troop seats (again moulded strap detail) and some smaller internal detail parts. The skin of the fuselage comes in large sections and wraps around this tubular core. I imagine the modeller will need to be very careful with this approach as the slightest misaligning of parts will result in a bigger misalignment in the next stages. Onto this the wings and tailpieces fit, along with the pose-able control surfaces as does the large undercarriage. I wonder how strong the undercarriage needs to be to ensure this stays on its wheels but the kit parts seem very sturdy. All external panels are smooth and Ive seen some criticism for this as some period pictures show noticeable deformation around the frame of the aircraft. I can see both sides of this and personally I'd rather it wasn't there and do some work myself to reproduce it if I see it necessary at the time. There are plenty period photo's around should the modeller wish to replicate this. The painting guidance and decals exist for 3 versions of the aircraft. Two UK RAF and one US D-Day airframe, there doesn't seem to be any guidance on differences in the build or fit of the aircraft depending on the theatre. Guidance is in the instructions for the width of the painted on invasion stripes in 1/35th scale, which I think is a great feature. The Sprues The 18 sprues are as follows. Sprue A (x1) This sprue contains the Tail parts of the aircraft including the fuselage sides for the tail, the pose-able rudder and the support struts for the horizontal tail surfaces themselves. Sprue B (x1) This sprue contains the upper fuselage and wing spar parts along with some of the outer body panels. Sprue C (x1) This sprue contains the majority of the cockpit parts along with some internal bracing for the wing structures. Sprue D (x1) This sprue contains the bulkheads for the inner fuselage parts. Sprue E (x1) This sprue contains the horizontal tail surfaces and pose-able control surfaces for the tail parts. Sprue F (x1) This sprue contains some more internal bracing for the wings, outer fuselage skin parts and some undercarriage parts. Sprue G (x2) These contain further cockpit and fuselage pieces along with some of the troop seats. Sprue Ha (x1) and Hb (x1) These are the wings. Large mouldings of both wings split in the usual upper/lower piece manner. Sprue J (x1) This contains more internal bulkheads and some further fuselage pieces. Sprue K (x1) This contains more floor pieces along with parts for the large port side cargo door. Sprue L (x1) This contains the large wing control surfaces. Sprue Ma (x1) This is the bracing for the Undercarriage. Sprue Mb (x1) This is the large, one piece cockpit canopy structure. Its very clear and looks to be free from defects and anomalies. Sprue Mc (x1) and Sprue Md (x1) This is the side windows for the fuselage sides. A further, very small bubble window and smaller side window. Sprue N (x1) & Sprue P(x2) Sprue N is further bulkheads and some side panels for the fuselage. Sprues P are further parts for the interior including parts for the cargo seats. Etch Fret P (x1) This small fret has some straps for the pilots cockpit and some small bracing for the cargo seats in the rear of the aircraft. The Window Masking and Decal Sheet The Window masking is for the main canopy itself and the various windows on the side of the fuselage. These are laser cut vinyl and are self adhesive. I can see these being a big part of the build given the size and prominence of the cockpit windows themselves. The Decal sheet looks well produces, in good register and seems to have all the necessary markings and national insignia. The schemes are: RZ108 of RAF 'Operation Overlord', France, 6th June 1944. PW773 of RAF 'Operation Mallard', Normandy, France, 6th June 1944. RF141 of USAAF 'Operation Overlord', Normandy, France, 6th June 1944. The Instructions Sheet. This is really well printed on glossy paper. Its illustrated really well and they are really clear and easily readable. They are black and white, except for the external colour scheme and in english. All paint guidance is given in MR. Hobby, Hobby Color, Humbrol and Tamiya. The Schemes that are presented on the decal sheet are all presented on the last 3 pages of the Instruction Sheet. The Nose weight. There is a nose weight included. This is very hefty and comes in its own cardboard box to protect the other parts from it rattling about in the main box itself. Conclusion. I think this kit will fly off the shelves. Bronco and a few other manufacturers, Tamiya included, have already released a number of Airborne figures, vehicles and small artillery pieces that will look great with this kit in a diorama. The only figures that may be difficult to source at this time are the pilots but Im sure someone will remedy that soon enough. The only quandary I have is how to build this, either as a Bronco loading up with personnel and equipment, or as a crashed example with the pieces of the fuselage scattered in a field and the occupants escaping from the site. One thing that will drive this for most I am sure is space to keep and Display it. At almost a metre in wingspan and almost as long in the fuselage this will be difficult to find space for even once you have discarded that box. For those completely without space issues can you imagine this being 'towed' behind the upcoming 1/32 Lancaster that has been announced recently by HKM? That really would be something to see. Overall I'd say really highly recommended, especially if like me you like the idea of mixed aircraft, armour and personnel dioramas. One last bonus us the artwork supplied below, its a really nice touch and would look good in a decent frame.
  17. Hello this is what im working on at the moment. Normaly i buidt jets but at the moment i will ga for a few helos (about 10 inthe stash) So when finnishd i hope it ill look like this one. The kit i will use is the italerie kit. Job done at the moment. This part is a combination of eduard en verlinden. Its the back seaters ip.. pit instald. The decals will be home made. Mark
  18. This is the Model of the Ural 4320 from (I think) Revell. The vehicle body and the engine was from Real Model (Resinparts). The Ural was a part of the "MAZ Tank Transporter" and I took this model from the transporter, because the front wheels brok because of the belgian highway. The next picture I will take of both models, MAZ and Ural. The kit from Revell was horrible and so I needed a canvas cover to hide the cracks at the cabine. On the left side you can see such a crack at the door. See you next time and happy modelling. Kai
  19. This is a build that was actually started in December but never appeared on SPAR. I have been working on this one for a Steel Cats GB on Finescale, but the deadline for that one is April 1 and I'd rather not rush to crank this out over my upcoming spring break. Actually, this build was the last thing I was working on over there, so I may not be returning anymore. But anyways, I thought I'd start a fresh thread here where the cool modelers hang out, haha. First, an introduction. The tank is a Panther G in Italy, with the focus of interest being the add-on armor. I got the kit really cheap at a sale at my LHS, and I opened it not knowing what to expect. Essentially, it's the crispest model I've ever seen! The detail is superb, and so far, every bit of fitting and gluing has been flawless. I read a detailed review/analysis of the kit, and found out that the specific tank that I'm building did not have Zimmerit, but had more armor than the kit offers. The kit gives some very nicely detailed armor for the turret, but apparently the actual tank also had some engine armor as well. To supplement the kit, I found Alliance Model Works' armor set, and it definitely should look the part. The only other real flaw with the kit is that lack of an anti-aircraft MG up-top, though the arm that would hold one is included in the kit. I found a MG 34 resin set from TANK, and I gotta say, the casting is beautiful. I'm really looking forward to painting it and showing it off on top of my model. Up to this point, I don;t have a ton of work done on it, but the complex suspension was a job in itself. Here are the pics I've got so far, and I hope to work on it sometime this month, so hopefully I'll have an update sometime soon, though I can't promise anything. Either way, thanks for looking! And this is the set of cleaned-up wheels, another job in itself, haha. The second picture is a test fit, so they don't look straight for a reason.
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