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Found 11 results

  1. Hola you tolerant non LS followers, Some days ago, I started to build two kits of the Eduard SSW D.III. It's the ProfiPack edition with PE and I ordered a Brassin engine, a set of Brassin 08/15, another set of 08/15's from Gaspatch and Aviattic's cookie cut Lozenge decals. I posted some progresses on the engine in another thread, but caught a little fire while building, because of the great fun factor of these kits. The plan was to use the SSW's as a testbed for different techniques, which are new to me, like wood painting with oils, Lozenge decaling and others. I started this WIP now, because I hope you are interested in my fails and successes with this couple and on the egoistic side I hope for input, where I struggle. The Brassin engine was finished using nickel rods for the pushers aligned with the help of brass tubes. All colors used are from the very likable Xtreme Metal range from AK. I used stainless steel for the case and burnt metal for the exhausts. The stainless steel was blued a little with a hint of transparent blue. In the end, I really like the result and to me it payed off not to use the supplied PE pushrods. Cheers Rob
  2. Hola Compañeros, today I was not sure what to do in my cave, till I remembered the sheer amazement, when I opened the box of my Mig-31 BM-BSM (Limited Edition) kit from AMK or Avantgarde Model Kits. besides the sprues in separated bags, there where some boxes included for special protection of the front fuselage tub, the weapon sprues and the upper fuselage. Than there was a plastic box containing superbly cast white metal parts for the wheel struts, which not only look better than the plastic, but sometimes make living easier, because multi part plastic affairs are cast as single parts. The metal is sturdy and not like this soft SAC stuff. Clear parts are doubled, one in -yeah, clear- one one version in a golden tint and there is a fret of PE The offering is so overwhelming, that there is only minimal need for AM. I bought Brassin wheels, which are definitely nicer than the supplied ones, Canopy masks from HGW and a big sheet of stencils as wet transfers made by HGW. My last more or less modern jet was and Eduard/Academy F15, with lots of fit issues and a stenciling nightmare, because I couldn't get the decals blended into the paintjob. I hope these wet transfers will behave better. When I started building the feeling of near perfectness continued. engineering is great, detail very crisp, the fit is very good and there is minimal cleanup to do. Most parts would just snap fit, you rarely have this with kits. The engines build up fast and are ready for painting. The wheel wells are a piece of art and are prepared for painting too. When you insert the sub assemblies into the fuselage components (snap fit again) and close up the fuselage everything is aligning well, with most of the seamlines hidden, vey clever. Up to this point the kit is a clear 10 on my wow scale and I'm not that easy to excite. Cheers Rob
  3. After some "Outings" lately concerning building other scales than 1/32 or 1/35 I took all my pride aside and confess, I do 1/48 Jets sometimes , I even built a tiny 1/72 Mig-17 and had fun . To me the most hindering reason Building 1/48 Jets is not the scale or the lack of interesting subjects, it's about STENCILING. Some years ago I built a F-15 and lots of time were put into stenceling and the follow-up problems, like silvering, not setting perfectly, you name it. I have one of the Eduard 1/48 "Good Morning Da Nang" F-4 Phantoms in my stash, which is in fact an Academy kit and some resin- and pe-am-stuff. Decals are designed by Furball and are printed by Cartograph and looking great, BUT the sheer number of stencils made me shiver, there are hundereds of them. Two weeks ago I noticed that the Chech Company HGW not only provided Phantom stencils (No. 248020), but that theese are GROUPED wet transfers. That reduces the amount of transfers enormously. How they fit and if they are good to work with has to be tested. What I did notice is that there are lots of differences between the Cartograph stencils and the HGW ones, sizewise and in clarity and Colour. Even the words (yeah you can read them) are different sometimes. I didn't go deeper into research yet about who is right and who is wrong, but I was at least surprised by the fact. Compared on the contact paper the Cartograph stencils look clearly sharper. If I recommend the HGW Stencils remains open till further research is done. If they are not too wrong I will use them, if only to reduce the stress factor of stenceling. Cheers Rob Sheet No. 1 Sheet No. 2 In the Manual you can see the groups of stencils (blue areas) Number 619 (Cartograph) should be the same like Number 29 (HGW) Again the same stencil, left is HGW and Right is Cartograph
  4. My second kit completion of 2016. All paints were Tamiya, thinned with Gunze leveling thinner. This was the mount of Russian ace Nikolay Shkodin in 1953. Decals courtesy of "Hi Decals". They are excellent decals, and react beautifully to MicroSol and MicroSet. Other than the decals, 100% out-of-box.
  5. AERO Line AL 4058 1/48 Pilot figure for BAC Lightning Available for $11.30 or Eur7,90 from Plusmodel. The blister pack contains one 1/48 resin figure of an English Electric / BAC Lightning pilot in 1960's flightgear. This is how the figure looks when unpacked, a fine film of resin "flash" has to be removed. Just breaking away the flash on both sides gives the following result, without me removing the last traces of mould lines: It's evident that the figure is beautifully mastered and cast. It looks quite accurate too, except for one detail which I will highlight later. First have a look at the characterful face: There are no written paint instructions or mention of what colors to use. What is provided is a nice color drawing of a Lightning pilot: Comparing the torso of the pilot to the drawing and some period photos we can see the issue that I mentioned before: the life jacket is not going around the back of the pilot and the inflatable part looks to be too wide as on the shoulders of the figure. Of course it doesn't have to be a deal breaker: The inflatable part of the life jacket can have it's corners softened with some use of a modeling knife or a file, the textile part around the back can easily be made from some putty that figure modelers use to make straps or pieces of textile. The rest of the details like the oxygen hoses look very good indeed! At first I had some doubt on the accuracy of the flight helmet but it has a very good likeness to the Mk.1A flight helmet, only lacking in the widening of the sides for the earphones. The fact that the helmet isn't empty is also accurate, since the Mk.1A was used together with a cloth inner helmet. All in all HIGHLY RECOMMENDED with only the tasks to paint or model the back part of the life jacket and the slight bulges on the sides of the helmet if the modeler wants. I'd like to thank Plusmodel for providing LSM with the review sample! A shot of another two RAF pilots. Slightly different gear since they are bomber pilots on the Canberra:
  6. Aeroline (Plusmodel) AL4051 + AL4052 R-98R (AA-3A Anab) + R-98T (AA-3B Anab) Click to purchase the R-98R or the R-98T directly for $15.90 or Eur 11,10 History from Wikipedia: The K-8's development began in 1955, known as R-8 in service. Like most Soviet air-to-air missiles, it was made with a choice of semi-active radar homing or infrared seeker heads. The original missile was compatible with the Uragan-5B radar used on the Sukhoi Su-11 and several developmental aircraft from Mikoyan-Gurevich. It was upgraded to R-8M (better known as R-98) standard in 1961, giving the SARH weapon the capability for head-on intercepts. In 1963 it was further upgraded to the R-8M1, making it compatible with the RP-11 Oriol-D radar of the Sukhoi Su-15 and Yakovlev Yak-28P. Subsequent development led in 1965 to R-8M2, more commonly called R-98, with longer range and improved seekers, compatible with the upgraded RP-11 Oryol-M ("Eagle") radar. The final variant, introduced from 1973, was the R-98M1(NATO 'Advanced Anab') with better countermeasures resistance and longer range, matched to the Taifun-M radar of the Su-15TM and Yak-28PM interceptors. Two R-98's were used to bring down Korean Air Lines Flight 007 on September 1, 1983. The R-98M1 remained in service through the 1980s, being withdrawn with the last Su-15 'Flagon' interceptors. What's in the sets? Both sets contain parts for two missiles, the R-98R set for the radar guided variant and the R-98T for the infrared guided version. The main body with the main fins are cast as one part: The rest of the parts for the R-98R are the front guidance fins and warheads, the exhaust parts of the rockets and -not on this photo- a decal sheet and a fret of photo-etched parts. A nice addition is the inclusion of two alternative warheads that have protective covers for the radar seekers moulded on: The set of the IR-guided R-98T differs in the warheads with transparent parts for the IR-seekers. Also supplied are covers for the IR-seekers. The PE-fret is the same as in the R-98R set: The decal sheet: With all these parts and decals some good instructions are imperative: All in all this looks like a very nice product to add to your 1/48 Su-11 Fishpot-C or Su-15 Flagon! Or the XT-Model Yak-28P when that's hitting the market... So, Highly Recommended! I very much like to thank the good people at Plusmodel for providing LSM with the review samples! The R-98 on the Su-11: On the Su-15: And the Yak-28:
  7. Here is the final reveal of a little project I took on to see what this cute little plane kit was all about. So, in addition to the kit, I decided to get the upgrade set for it as well. The paints were AKAN, Weathered with clay-based washes and pigments. Added a few oil and fuel stains as well. So, without further ado - I present my version of the Eduard 1/48 scale Limited Edition Yak-1b. I hope you like it. And there you have it. It was an Accurate Miniatures base kit and Eduard added PE, resin, and masks. The AMI kit was excellent with tight fits for most joins. There were a couple trouble areas, as with all kits, but overall, a great kit. I would highly recommend this kit for novice to advanced builders. Beginners may find it very challenging, especially the cockpit PE. If, on the other hand, you like a challenge, this is a decent kit to fill that need. I thank you for taking the time to look. Please take the time to comment if you like. And thanks again. Keep modeling!
  8. 1/48 Bandai Star Wars Snowspeeder. Bandai Kit Ref: 996692 Priced Yen 1,920 (about £15 before pnp and customs if they get you). Anyone who knows me knows I love Star Wars. I have done since I was 6 and saw it in the cinema in 1971 when it was released. When Bandai said they were the new official kit suppliers my heart kind of sank, the kits that were done by Fine Molds were great and I had high hopes for more. Given Bandai's reputation as a toy manufacturer I cant say I held out much hope. How wrong was I! Ive had the lot on order since I saw the 1st reviews and this is my 1st review here of one of these kits. I have the rest. It is just that Jim seems to have beaten me to the gig every time. Must have less to do than I do Though he's a bit busy right now so I figured I'd jump in and review this whilst I can get a word in edgeways. The Box. The Kit comes in a great sturdy glossy little box with what I think is really nice cover art. Oh how I wish they would do the At-AT walker in the background in the same scale. That'd make a great diorama. The box looks like this: The Instructions. The Instructions are up to the same standard as the other kits. That is that they are in Japanese and anyone who wants to read them needs a translator. The pictures and markings for each part though are very clear, the build looks really easy and they have put in some good presentation on the diagrams and illustrations. The Sprues. There are only 5 sprues. This isn't a big kit. What is there though is exquisite. I have built the Fine Molds kit in the same scale and this is up there for detail. I'd say its almost a copy but there are subtle differences and the feel of this kit is of a much more modern one (who'd have thought the original Fine Molds one is about 6 years old now?). As Jim mentioned in one of his reviews that somehow on the 1st sprue Bandai have managed to mix black kit parts with clear. It is amazing how they did this and some may see it as a gimmick. I guess it is but it doesn't make it any less impressive to me. There is a base and stand included on one sprue and in all cases the moulding detail and the panel lines are very even, crisp and up there with any other manufacturers kits I have seen. All the other sprues are as standard, except the clear Red/Pink one. This has some simulated laser shots on it so once can show the ship in action firing the forward guns. Pictures of the sprues are below: The Decals. These are really nicely done, thin and look to have little carrier film if any in some cases. Final Thoughts. Because I don't read Japanese and given the coloured nature of the sprues it makes me wonder if Bandai, like the other kits they have released recently, give the less experienced modeller the chance to do the whole kit unpainted with the sprues being coloured and no need for paint? This does seem the case when you look at it and from a viewpoint of encouraging less experienced and young people into modelling I think its to be applauded. Of course those amongst us who like a bit of fun can really go to town on Star Wars. Everything is weathered to within an inch of its life and that battered lived in look (at least for Rebel items) is almost encouraged. There were rumours that Bandai were going to ban shipping outside Asia Pacific (Revell have the Star Wars Franchise rights in Europe and the USA). I really hope they don't as these are some great little kits. I myself, as I wrote above, love Star Wars but having built the Fine Molds one in the same scale (and having enjoyed every second of that) did wonder if I wanted to build this kit too. Then I saw the following picture.... Its a promotional image from the Computer Game Star Wars: Battlefront and as soon as I saw it I knew I needed a 2nd Snowspeeder. This'll be my inspiration for the next build. If anyones interested the Fine Molds one I built is this one: In summary anyone who loves Star Wars will be thinking of getting this Im sure. If you are not you should. For anyone else I guess its down to whether you like the look, fancy something different or just want to weather the life out of something and if you do I think this is the one, or one of the ones, for you. Highly Recommended. I bought this from Hobby Link Japan but it can be found on some importers sites.
  9. Ok, I started this topic on the original SPAR forum but, yeah. Now that things seem to have settled down and we're still keeping the group build over here, I'll put my entry back up. This is Eduard's 1/48 Bf-109 E-1 and I'll be doing Hannes Trautloft's rig. Here are some pics to bring us up to speed. Had a bit of a problem with the propeller shaft coming out of the engine. It was sacrificed to the carpet monster. I decided to turn a new part on my dremel. It came out alright. Luckily, it won't be seen. Here's the part with a little brass rod reinforcement. It will later be trimmed to fit. Now, in the last week and a half it seems like every time I go out to the bench, I take one step forward and two steps back. I've broken quite a few pieces off and replaced them, and it's just extremely frustrating. I'll just have to keep at it. I'll give another update soon. After I manage to build up the courage to not break something on the kit.
  10. This is what I want to build. Two different schemes of Honduran Airforce Corsairs, this means I will build two kits!
  11. Hey all, This was one of my latest builds, First one to be completed with an airbrush, first WWI-aircraft and first one to get a diorama base. It was build in three days (excluding the diorama), the idea around this whole build was, no excuses, just finish it. It was build using the 1/48 Revell kit, which actually contains an Eduard mold. In the kit were decals for the Fokker Dr. I flown by Manfred von Richthofen, who should not be unknown with most of you guys. He flew various aircraft, as the Albatros D.V. and various Fokker Dr. I's and scored a total of 80 victories. The Revell kit states that he had flown 9 different Dr. I's and that this one was the one flown on the fatal flight where he was shot down by ground forces deep inside enemy territory on the 21st of April 1918. He was buried by english troops given full military honors. Enough about history, here are the pic's. The Dio is supposed to be a muddy airfield during late 1917/begin 1918. Enjoy! With regards, Ninetalis.
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