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  1. Good afternoon, I present my latest off the bench, Hasegawa’s version of the Mitsubishi A6M2-N Rufe. The “N” denotes the aircraft was actually manufactured by Nakajima (as were all the Rufes). I added the CMK cockpit and used Montex masks for the markings except for four decals not included in the masks. I wanted the aircraft to be weathered but not overly so. The paints were primarily Sovereign Colourcoats with some AKI varnishes and the relatively new AKI panel liners for brown/green and black finishes. The trolley was weathered a bit as they took a beating. Regards,
  2. 1/35 German WW1 - 25 cm Schwerer Minenwerfer Heavy Mortar CMK Resin Armor Catalogue # RA058 Available from CMK Kits for € 60,00 Introduction Another artillery piece (well technically mortar) from CMK. See our review of the 24cm Mörser here. This new range of WW1 artillery subjects is of the highest quality. Both in design and execution. As is common these days this kit was designed in 3D, subsequently 3D printed and then casted. More on the quality later. Let it be said that I was not able to spot any printing lines on the parts in this kit. 3D renderings by CMK: The subject of this kit is the 24cm Minenwerfer. A weapon designed by Germany before the first world war and after the Russo-Japanese war in 1904-1905. The ‘aim’ was to develop a weapon that could be transported on detachable cart wheels, drawn by horses or mules. Before firing it had to be placed in a trench or pit, at least 1,5meters deep. This way the Minenwerfer became a hard target to hit, while at the same time it was able to hit difficult targets. Both in terms of line of sight and shell-resistance. The explosive power of the shells was impressive. Reason for this was the low velocity of the muzzle. This enabled the shell casing to be thinner, and thus to contain much more TNT. 47kg to be exact. The highly destructive power of these shells, was somewhat diminished by the ample range: 540meters. Still this weapon proved very successful. This is underlined by the fact Germany entered the war with 44 pieces, which rose to 1234 pieces at the end of the war. With the Minenwerfers weight (768kg) it needed a crew of at least 4 engineers to set up and fire. The rate of fire was maxed at 20 rounds per minute. Quite an achievement, taking into account this was a muzzle loading weapon. In 1916 the Minenwerfer underwent a modification with a longer barrel. This gave the Minenwerfer a longer range. I love the fact that both barrels are included in this kit. Both the shorter old pattern (alter Art) and new pattern (neuer Art). I did some searching to see where you can see one surviving example with your own eyes, and found a few museums: - The Belgian Army Museum, Belgium (Legermuseum Brussel) - Australian War Memorial, Canberra - Waterford, Ontario - Hahndorf (near Adelaide), Australia - Imperial War Museum, Duxford, UK - Warsaw, Poland Be sure to check the link I included above! Great reference photo's. The Kit The box this kit comes in is pretty small. Upon opening you’ll find a plastic bag, sealed with 4 compartments, filled with grey resin parts. The first two compartments contain the larger parts. Two barrels (new and old pattern), wheels, baseplate, ammo (both bare and in transfort container) and carriage. The last two compartments contain the small parts (like sights, eyelets, etc…) Like the Mörser I reviewed the resin is very crisp, contains no imperfections whatsoever and hardly any flash. Actually the only part that needs cleanup are the openings in the wheels, which should be pretty straightforward. That’s it. I can see this kit being cleanly placed on a wooden plinth or in a diorama. What I love is that CMK did not only model the gun itself, but also provides ammo. Both with and without their transport baskets. And also the tripod that was used to lift the ammo into the barrel. Pretty cool. The first bag segment. Two barrels, ammo and carriage: You've got to love this. The whicker transport case for the ammo: The carriage: Other big parts from the second compartment in the bag. Wheels, base plate: Base plate: The tripod, used to lift the ammo into the muzzle: Optics, traverse, adjustment wheels: Toolbox: Small parts from the fourth bag compartment: Hydro-pneumatic recoil: The instructions give you one colour scheme: Dark Green. If you look at the surviving example in the Imperial War Museum in Duxford, you can make out remnants of a camo pattern. So there is a choice! Overal: This is a lovely kit of an important subject. Before this kit there was only one way to go: The Fine Scale Factory kit. But to be honest: I wasn’t able to find it. I love the quality and completeness of this kit and when comparing the pieces to walkarounds of the Belgian Army Museum, I can only conclude that CMK did their homework. Well done. Now go buy one! Highly recommended. Our sincere thanks to CMK Armor for providing this kit for review. To buy directly, click here.
  3. 1/32 Heinkel He 111 detail sets CMK Catalogue # check article for codes Available from Special Hobby. Links in article. We recently looked at the 1/32 CMK He 111 Interior set, which provides a whole new replacement cockpit for Revell’s large and rather nice kit of this iconic German medium bomber. That set merited a standalone article due to its complexity, as you can see. However, in this article, I will take a look at the other sets available for this kit, again from CMK. Set # 5068,Heinkel He 111P - Wing fuel tanks, 418 Kč (approx. £15) Purchase link This set is packed into one of CMK’s larger blister packs due to the quantity of resin within. I actually couldn’t get it all to fit back in once I’d done the photography for this review. Designed to give the modeller an option to display the two inboard fuel tanks, this set requires some radical butchery of the main lower wing panels, so be prepared. A significant proportion of the plastic will need to be removed between the main gear bay opening and the fuselage. You are supplied with EIGHTEEN pieces of light grey resin, all flawlessly cast, although one fuel bay wing skin panel will need the hot water treatment to correct its shape. The premise of this set is quite simple. Each bay needs to be constructed from a ceiling and four sidewall pieces. All of these are suitably detailed within, bearing in mind that they will be filled with the tanks (2 per bay). Those tanks are nicely detailed, with securing straps and fuel filler points, plus the ribbing that could be seen on the rubber skinning of the tanks. Externally, the main wing bay panel is devoid of detail, as per the kit, but internally has some constructional elements cast into it. Instructions are clear enough with simple line drawings telling you all that you need to know. Details are provided for painting too, with codes given for Humbrol paints. Set # 5069, Heinkel He 111P Fuel filler necks and life raft, 247 Kč (approx. £8.50) Purchase link I must say that this is an unusual concoction for a detail set with a life raft compartment being sold with fuel filling points! Now, as the previous set shows you the wing fuel tanks from below, this set provides the tank fuelling points that exist in the inboard area of the upper wing panels. Instead of removing whole swathes of plastic though, you simply need to drill out the filling points on Revell’s moulded plastic. Underneath these points you will fit a resin box that will have a fuel filler point fastened to. Parts are of course supplied for the fuel filler plates that you drilled out previously. No real clean-up needs to be done on the resin boxes, but the filler ports and access plates are cast onto a block and will need removing and some tidying before you can use them. As for the life raft, this is a very simple mod indeed. After cutting away the relevant plastic on the spine of the He 111 kit, you will secure a compartment within this area, lipped so that it will recess into your newly-cut opening. When the fuse is closed and the compartment painted, a resin life raft can then be dropped into position, all folded with the relevant details such as gas canister and pull/inflation cord. Lastly, a panel is supplied which would cover this area. Casting is again excellent, and this set is packaged into one of the smaller CMK blister packs. Instructions are clear and easy to follow, with suitable Humbrol paint references. Set # 5070, Heinkel He 111P Tail undercarriage strut and bay set, 247 Kč (approx. £8.50) Purchase link If you’re going to super-detail your He 111, you may as well do the job properly. Presented in another blister pack, this set contains just five pieces, cast in light grey resin. Some casting block removal will of course be needed. Once done, this is a very simple set to install. Port and starboard tail wheel well walls are cast various constructional element details, such as longeron and stringers, plus a little plumbing too. Not too much, so you can add more if you feel the need, but this should be good enough for most modellers in the detail stakes. Once these are fitted, painted and the fuselage closed up, the resin wheel form is then fitted to the strut (I suggest pinning this too), and then resin pins are used to fit the tail wheel itself, plus the strut into the bay. As the locating point is quite high in the fuse, this could be a little awkward. I would also suggest you replace the resin pins for this job with some steel pins or rigid wire. The instructions look simple enough to follow, but the proof of the pudding is always in the eating. Looks a great little set, providing all fits well. Set # Q32159, Heinkel He 111H/P Instrument panels, 134 Kč (approx. £4.60) Purchase link Out last set is packaged into a standard sleeve with a cardboard backing. If you don’t wish to fit the entire cockpit set, then this simple upgrade could be for you. This set is designed to replace the Revell instrument panel with something far more presentable. Firstly, a resin panel is supplied, and this simply has rear instrument detail. You will need to add wiring etc. to this yourself. Onto the front of this fits a two-part photo-etch instrument panel, produced by Eduard and printed in full colour. PE quality is excellent, as we’ve come to expect from Eduard. Two other resin parts are included and cast onto a single block. These are for the large central console that fastens into the upper canopy area, and for a small side console. Details are very nice and I think just a little accompanying wire will seal the deal. Again, the instructions are simple but do the job effectively. Conclusion If you want to super-detail your He 111 kit, then whilst Eduard will provide some really nice sets, such as the bomb bay etc., if you want to add resin to enhance your work, then these really are the only sets in town that will give you what you need. Thankfully though, CMK’s work is excellent and straightforward to fit and the price is more than acceptable. All we really need now is for Revell to start moulding their kit again and perhaps we can see more of these sets used on the club and competition stalls. Highly recommended My sincere thanks to Special Hobby for the review samples seen here. To purchase directly, click the links in the article.
  4. 1/32 Ju 88A Interior set CMK Catalogue # 5026 Available from Special Hobby for 567 Kč (approx. £20 at time of writing) This year marks a full decade since Revell released their spectacular Ju 88A-1 kit, marking what many thought at the time to be a landmark achievement for a mainstream plastic model manufacturer. I pretty much have to agree with them too. Whilst the model didn’t have detailed engines, it did have everything else, including a superbly detailed cockpit. The kit was based on the reconstruction/restoration of a Ju 88A-1 at Gardermoen museum in Norway, and they had the museums best guy on the job, Guttorm Fjeldstad. Having said that, injection plastic moulding does have its limitations, but Revell pushed it to the max with their kit. If you want to take your own Ju 88A-1 kit to the next level, with a super-pimped out interior, then there really is no better an upgrade than that offered by CMK. CMK’s ‘Interior set’ is a little ambiguously named as it provides just the cockpit detail and nothing else, but the cockpit is of course what you bought it for! It also comes in a rather small and pretty heavy box that is crammed full of resin components. The box itself is the same size as that of the simpler Ju 88C conversion I looked at very recently and could probably have benefitted from something slightly larger. A label with a line drawing graphic gives away the contents of this set. Opening the top flap, we are presented with two zip-lock bags of medium-grey resin components, a folded instruction sheet and another wallet with a colour-printed PE fret, protected by a cardboard stiffener. The first zip-lock wallet contains the larger components in this set. Most obvious here are the sidewalls. I first have to say that there is very little that will be used from Revell’s kit as this is almost an entire replacement. If you thought Revell’s parts looked good, then these will astound you. Everything is reproduced here, including the various wiring looms and numerous items missed by Revell, such as the electrical terminations detail on the switch and fuse panel. These parts have a large casting block that runs the entire length of the underside of the sidewalls, but there is a thinner web between this and the part. I will also add, at this point, that these walls will fit straight into the fuselage without any thinning. This set does require some surgery in places, but nothing too intense. The rest of this bag includes the three crew seats with armour and cushion details, a two-part cockpit floor, three blocks of ammunition saddles and a block containing radio sets for the rear wall. Casting blocks should again be pretty straightforward to remove with a narrower portion of waste material holding the part to the block. You will need a razor saw though as the connecting points are still relatively chunky. Our second bag of resin parts contains mostly smaller and detail parts, such as conduits, seat brackets, bomb sight mount and the bombsight itself, electrical panels, rudder pedals and pedal stanchions, map pockets, ammo brackets, levers, control column with wiring detail, fold down seat, fire extinguisher, etc. Unlike the CMK Ju 88 instrument panel, this panel’s rear details are moulded with integral wiring, and it does indeed look good and saves us the work of doing this ourselves. There really will be enough to do without that on top! Also seen are parts for the radio wall, split into two sections. More wiring looms for those radio sets and also mounting brackets for the ammo saddles. A single, colour-printed PE fret includes a multi-layer instrument panel and other instrument units, a full set of crew seatbelts, and the leather straps for the ammunition saddles. Production is by Eduard, and as you’d imagine, the quality is first-rate. I know that some people don’t like pixilation in the colour printing, and that’s valid, but here it’s not really distinguishable. I’m more than happy to use these parts. If there is one slight issue with this kit, it’s the instructions. Whilst they are very good at explaining how things fit together, in some areas they aren’t great at showing where those assemblies fit, and you will need to do some Googling to fathom some areas. As you’ll doubtless do this anyway in order to reference your painting, then this should be no more than a minor inconvenience. The Ju 88A-1 cockpit is well-represented in online image searches. Instructions are printed both sides on a single A4 and A5 sheet. Conclusion This really is an excellent upgrade set to Revell’s Ju 88A-1, but it’s one that requires a little forward planning as you progress through construction, with plenty of dry-fitting before you commit to any glue. As the cockpit is almost entirely sheathed in resin, this is hardly surprising, but the result will be spectacular. In a day where prices are constantly rising and some of the products in our hobby have outrageous prices, this is a very reasonably-prices set for the quantity and quality of resin that you get, and the enjoyment of installing it all. I love it! Highly recommended My sincere thanks to Special Hobby for the review sample seen here. To purchase directly, click THIS link.
  5. 1/32 Heinkel He 111P Interior set CMK Catalogue # 5071 Available from Special Hobby for 625 Kč (around £21.50 at time of writing) I struggle to believe that it’s been a whole seven years since I first saw the new-tool Heinkel He 111P kit from Revell. Remember, these were the days before we saw the truly large injection-moulded giants, such as the B-17 from Hong Kong Models, or even their B-25 Mitchell. Revell really were breaking new ground with this and their Ju 88 kit from three years earlier (2008). Revell’s Heinkel He 111 release was quite something, and I remember seeing the parts for the first time, and wondering just how I’d display something of this size! How times change… At the moment, neither of the He 111 kits (P-1 and H-6) are readily available, which is a shame. Apart from the new Technik Ju 88, neither are the other big Luftwaffe hitters either. Hopefully Revell will dig out those tools again before too long as there’s a whole raft of extras available for the Heinkel kit, including this set that I’m looking at today, concerning the He 111 cockpit. CMK call it an ‘Interior set’, but that’s a little ambiguous as it doesn’t contain parts for anything beyond the cockpit (so no bomb bay etc.). I can forgive them though, as it’s pretty clear from this set just what is included as it’s plastered over the artwork on the front of the box. The box itself is fairly small, and not too heavy either, as despite there being a lot of resin, there are no big, hefty parts. Even the larger components are relatively thin. Inside CMK’s familiar yellow and black box, adorned with a sticker with a graphical image of the detail set, are two bags of resin, one fret of colour-printed PE, and an instruction sheet. Unlike Revell’s Ju 88, whose cockpit is excellent out-of-box, the He 111 was always a little lacking, in my opinion, and certainly would benefit from some resin goodies. And here we are! Opening the first zip-lock bag, we are presented with the largest components in this detail set. All of the resin parts are cast in a medium-grey resin, apart from one, and this is the back wall of the cockpit (the largest part in the set). This pale grey part contains the doorway to the bomb bay (blanked off or closed), various trunking/conduit unites and a couple of avionics panels with wiring looms. Lower down is a recess into which the floor slots. As this is a replacement for the kit part, it will need to be thinned a little from the rear, and I think opening up the door would be a nice touch, especially if you have fitted Eduard’s bomb bay set. This cockpit is most definitely enhanced with the door opened. The floor is cast as two parts; the main rear floor, and the starboard projection which includes the bomb aimers cushions for when he lies prone. Some thinning of these parts and casting block removal will be required, but the details are superb, including various conduits and plate details. The prone position has side details, such as a drive chain mechanism. CMK has cast the sidewalls suitably thin, and because of this, you will have to remove not only the casting block, but also some part stiffeners that run along the bottom and top of the sidewalls. Details here include the constructional elements of the fuselage, as well as side consoles, wiring, and more avionics/electrical panels. One of my parts has a very slight warp, but that will easily come out with a quick dip in some hot water for a few seconds. These sidewalls seem to have to be installed once the floor and rear wall is in place, but some careful dry fitting will ascertain the correct and best way to approach this. The last part in this bag is the pilot’s seat. When the casting block is removed, the seat will be fitted to the cockpit using Revell’s kit part. There are seven casting blocks in the second zip-lock bag, as well as three standalone components. One of these is the instrument panel which has a blank face but has the instrument bodies cast on the reverse. Some wiring should be added here as this will clearly be seen in the finished model. For the front, CMK has supplied colour PE parts, courtesy of Eduard. The other standalone parts are……yes, the split door for the cockpit! So glad to see these added, and with the ability to be posed. Now you’ve zero excuse notto fit the Eduard bomb bay. The other components cast on the various blocks include a raft of ammunition saddles, multipart control column and linkages, bomb aimer seat, control panels, constructional elements, central instrument console, rudder pedals, trim wheels etc. It is pretty clear to me that you will need to look at the given kit parts in order to better ascertain the orientation and fitting of the resin upgrades. Other elements of the actual kit are missing in the upgrade illustrations too, such as the extinguisher that fits to the back wall. It’s evident that you need to follow both the kit and resin upgrade drawings with a view to knowing what should and shouldn’t be fitted. Some kit parts that are integral to the resin upgrade, are indeed shown in the CMK instructions, such as the pilot seat mount and rudder pedal assembly (sans plastic pedals). A single PE fret contains a colour-printed multipart instrument panel and various levers for the consoles, plus a set of seatbelts for both cockpit occupants. Quality is everything you expect it to be from Eduard. I find the instructions a little bewildering at times, with some parts not drawn exactly to the shape of the component, or with a level of ambiguity over where things actually fit. I’m afraid you’ll need to do some detective work in areas, but hey, isn’t that supposed to be the fun part for us armchair historians?! Conclusion A great little set with excellent casting and details that far excels what Revell offer in their kit, and at a very reasonable price. Just expect to have to do a little Google Imaging for some things! Highly recommended My sincere thanks to Special Hobby for sending this sample out for us to review. To purchase directly, click THIS link.
  6. 1/32 Ju 88C-2 Conversion set CMK Catalogue # 5027 Available from Special Hobby for 332 Kč (around £11.50 at time of writing) Junkers’ Ju 88 design was perhaps one of the first, true multirole aircraft, in every sense of the word, and the basic airframe was developed, added to and converted into roles ranging from fast-bomber, through to anti-shipping, night fighter, reconnaissance, heavy fighter, and also unpiloted flying bomb. The initial C version was converted from Ju 88A-1 airframes into a heavy fighter/fighter bomber role and dispensed with the usual glazed nose in favour of a solid metal nose through which four guns protruded. The gondola also had a solid front instead of the glazed area. The C version was pretty much the genesis for the later G-series machines we saw, albeit the C still had the Jumo engines and not the BMW radials. CMK’s little conversion set is simplicity itself and enables you to convert the Revell/Promodeller Ju 88A-1 into the rather slick looking heavy fighter version. There are external differences between the C-2 and C-4 machines, including the rear canopy. With the C-2 being converted from the A-1, there was only a single MG in the rear cockpit, whereas the C-4 had double rear-firing MGs, being converted from the A-5. To that extent, it’s possible that you could build the C-4 if you used the Ju 88A-4 kit. My eventual project will be to create a Ju 88C-0, for which there were only a handful converted. In a dusty corner of my attic, I have a complete starboard, forward window frame from a C-0 that crash-landed in Norway due to engine failure. To build that is on my modelling bucket list. Anyway, I digress. CMK’s Ju 88C-2 conversion set is packaged into one of their small and standard yellow boxes with a top-opening flap. A sticker label is attached to the front, showing a photo of a converted nose. Inside the box, a small zip-lock bag contains three main resin parts, plus a casting block with a further four components. A small instruction sheet is included, as is a very small decal sheet. All parts are cast in light grey resin, and the quality of them is excellent, with no flaws or other issues evident. You will of course need to remove casting blocks, or in the case of the new nose, grind down the pouring stuff so that just a small ridge remains that can help with location to the host model. The new nose is a solid piece, which is just fine as there was a metal sheet that divided the cockpit from the nose interior, with just the gun barrels protruding through. External detail is commensurate with that of the host kit, with fine panel lines. A number of latches line the circumference and the muzzle tubes have very fine riveting around them. Underneath the nose will sit a new section that does away with the glazed area of the kit and is located directly next to the new nose. As with the nose section, this is resplendent in fine panel lines, plus some fastener details. The replacement forward gondola is cast as a solid piece with a pouring stub that will need removing. Thankfully, the underside of this is profiled to fit the fuselage. I’ve seen a couple of builds where a little filler has been needed, but nothing too onerous. Detail here consists of a forward fairing that is riveted to the gondola body. Nothing else is needed, unless, like me, you intend on riveting the entire airframe. A little surgery will be needed on the original kit gondola so that you can graft the new section. Four barrels and muzzles are supplied, with hollow-cast ends. These are cast on a single block. I would perhaps try to hollow the muzzles out a little further with some very small drill bits, but a touch of wash in the ends would probably give a good illusion of depth. A small decal sheet is supplied that contains just the fuselage codes and unit badge. Printing is super-thin and has minimal carrier film. Colours are solid, and registration is perfect. I’m unsure as to what style of national markings you would need for this, but you may have to research that yourself and provide them too. The instructions do say that you use the Revell decals, but the Balkenkreuz is depicted as an outline version. Instructions are delivered on a double-sided piece of A5 paper, with one side depicting the parts in the set, and the reverse side showing the conversion and decal placement. Illustration is simple line drawing. No colour codes are given for anything, so reference is essential. Conclusion As I’ve said, a very simple and effective conversion that completely alters the appearance of the glazed nose bomber and turns it into the more menacing-looking heavy fighter version. Conversion itself looks to be a breeze and nothing here should be too difficult even for the newcomer to resin. Maybe a good first conversion project? Highly recommended My sincere thanks to Special Hobby for the sample reviewed in this article. To purchase directly, click THIS link.
  7. 1/32 Tempest Mk.V – Engine Cover Panels (for Special Hobby kit) CMK Catalogue # 5111 Available from Special Hobby for 801 Kč (approx. £28 in EU. Other countries may vary) If you’ve not already taken a look at our review of the Tempest V Engine Set, designed for Special Hobby’s rather sweet kit, then click HERE to get an idea of what this set should accompany. Whilst it’s entirely feasible to build the engine and Tempest without the cowl parts, you will of course need the engine if you plan to buy this product. As far as I know, Special Hobby has no plans (as yet) to release the two sets together, but maybe watch out and keep your eye on their schedules. Cowl photo courtesy of Warbirds News This new release (still showing as ‘coming soon’ on their website on 26-2-18) comes in one of CMK’s familiar yellow, flap-opener boxes that are typically used for their more parts-numerous detail sets and carrying a label which shows the contents in their CAD form. Inside this box there are two bags of light grey resin, and a folded A5 instruction sheet. One of these re-sealable bags contains a single resin piece; namely the large, lower chin cowl that also forms the lower circumference of the spinner area. This part is connected to its casting block at the front, with thin resin webs and the fill veins attaching themselves to the spinner and radiator opening part. This was the best way that such a complex part could be cast and there really shouldn’t be any problem with its removal. A deep tongue extends from the casting block, into the void within the main radiator housing. This simply appears to be a mechanism to give some rigidity to the mould when casting. The detail on this part is incredible, with all constructional elements within being minutely captured. It does appear that this isn’t at all designed to be fitted to the host model unless you seriously modify the engine set. I get the impression that this is designed to be used to display alongside the main mode, in a form of maintenance diorama, or simply to show the cowls on the model’s base. Externally, the detail is representative of the host kit, with fine panel lines and riveting. You will need to be super-careful when it comes to the protruding cowl fastener locations, as these look fairly fragile. Our second bag of resin contains nine further pieces which comprise the upper, side upper and side cowl panels, as well as the small panels for the glycol tank access, the radiator shutter and the lower rear panel which meets up with the bully of the Tempest. As with the other part, the interior details are faithfully recreated, including the strengthening strip rivets, which nicely align with the external rivet details, which are of course tiny divots as per the host airframe. Casting blocks are connected with those thin webs and pour veins and will be easy to remove. There’s not really much to say about the instruction sheet, save for the fact it identifies the various panels. Curiously, it shows the various panels being assembled into a hollow sheel, which of course isn’t how you’d pose these. Some text does say, however, that these would just be scattered around whilst the Tempest is in maintenance. Resin casting quality is as good as it gets, with no flaws or distortion in these thin panels. Conclusion Accompanying the engine set, this is a set that is most worthy of your inclusion when your Special Hobby Tempest V hits the workbench. I’m not too good at dioramas, so would simply opt to place these adjacent to the completed model. The interior structures are interesting and worthy of the not insignificant investment that both this and the engine wold cost. Very highly recommended My sincere thanks to Special Hobby for the set seen in this review. To buy directly, click THIS link.
  8. 1/32 Hawker Tempest Mk.V – Engine Set (for Special Hobby kit) CMK Catalogue # 5110 Available from Special Hobby for 1.964 Kč (approx. £68 in EU. Other countries may vary) The Napier Sabre was a British H-24-cylinder, liquid-cooled, sleeve valve, piston aero engine, designed by Major Frank Halford and built by D. Napier & Son during World War II. The engine evolved to become one of the most powerful inline piston aircraft engines in the world, developing from 2,200hp in its earlier versions to 3,500hp in late-model prototypes. Photos courtesy of NASM The first operational aircraft to be powered by the Sabre were the Hawker Typhoon and Hawker Tempest; the first aircraft powered by the Sabre was the Napier-Heston Racer, which was designed to capture the world speed record. Other aircraft using the Sabre were early prototype and production variants of the Blackburn Firebrand, the Martin-Baker MB 3 prototype and a Hawker Fury prototype. The rapid introduction of jet engines after the war led to the quick demise of the Sabre, as there was less need for high power military piston aero engines and because Napier turned its attention to developing turboprop engines such as the Naiad and Eland. The kit First of all, you need to know that this kit is designed specifically to fit the recent 1/32 Hawker Tempest Mk.V kit from Special Hobby, although there’s nothing stopping you building this as a standalone model in itself, complete with aircraft firewall. This is definitely a very nice inclusion to the growing line of aftermarket components for that particular kit. CMK’s engine set is presented in quite a reasonable-sized corrugated box with a large glossy product label on the reverse, showing some nice CAD images of the Napier Sabre. There’s actually a reason why a box this large has been used, and that is to cater to the sheer volume of resin within, with a parts count that in excess of 100 components. This is also a pure resin kit, with no PE needed. Inside the box, all light grey resin parts are packed into a single sleeve which has been heat sealed to create four compartments. You will need to slice open to access, and I suggest you then bag the resin into individual zip-lock bags, based on their original grouping. Of course, I’m not going to go through every single resin part and try to name and ID it against photos, but I have included a series of images here, courtesy of the NASM, which show a prime example of this powerful aero engine, for you to judge for yourself. Accompanying these are the various CAD images from Special Hobby, along with my own photos of the various resin parts. I have broken these down into a couple of images per heat sealed compartment, along with other useful detail images. Now, as you would expect, this set doesn’t just provide the engine. It also includes all of the associated pipework to plumb this into your Tempest kit, via the amazingly detailed resin firewall. Also to be found in this set is the large radiator that defined the Series V Tempest marques, plus the glycol tanks that sit inside each cheek of the cowl, adjacent to the radiator sides. Attention to detail is first class, with some of the most intricate detailing on the main engine block, including ignition plugs, down to beautifully hollow exhaust stubs. Casting is about as flawless as you can expect with a set with this number of parts, and also what must be quite intricate pouring techniques involved. There is barely even a pin hole to be seen. When it comes to seams (paring lines), these are also extremely minimal, with the engine block having the most obvious, but in an area where it will never be seen. Even this is still easy to remove and is mostly covered by other assemblies. Casting block connections should be easy to navigate in order to remove them from the parts. CMK seem to have done the same thing as Eduard with the piping, having thin webs to connect the parts to the blocks, with thicker veins of resin that punctuate the webs. In all, there should be no problem except for the sheer work in removing so many parts and cleaning them up. The instructions are easy to follow with their line drawings and selective use of coloured ink to denote faces that need to be glued. Colour references are also provided throughout assembly, with those colours being specified on the last page of the manual. The last two pages show more CAD images, but in colour so as to make painting even easier. There are only four colours that really need to be used, with black being the main hue. This means that most of this can first be assembled and painted before the need to add parts of other colours. Other smaller painting, such as the ignition plugs and lines, can easily be painted post-assembly. Conclusion Along with the gun bays and cockpit upgrades, this has simply got to be the ultimate aftermarket set for the Tempest V. With everything thrown into the mix, you have the recipe for a seriously impressive model. This set is most definitely not aimed at the novice, but I would say is more suited to those with plenty of resin experience due to the complexity of the set. A nice bit of work is essentially done though, when it comes to mating this to the Tempest, as the host kit comes with a separate nose, meaning this should just plug and play! A seriously impressive and high-quality product that is reflected in the price. One for both the detail connoisseur and Tempest enthusiast alike. Very highly recommended Check out our review of the engine cowl set too, here!! My sincere thanks to Special Hobby for supplying this review item. To purchase directly, click THIS link.
  9. Date 24th October 1940 Location Gilze-Rijen Airport - The Netherlands Squadron 3./NJG2 Pilot Fw. Hans Hahn Hans Hahn was born on 9 February 1919 at Rheydt in Rheinland. Hahn trained as a bomber pilot and was assigned to a Kampfgeschwader in January 1940. In May, he sank a 4,000 BRT freighter off Dunkirk. Shortly thereafter, Hahn transferred to the Nachtjagd. Hahn was posted to NJG 2 on its formation in September 1940. Feldwebel Hahn was assigned to 3./NJG 2. He gained his first victory on the night of 24 October 1940 on an intruder mission over England shooting down a RAF Whitley twin-engined bomber as it took-off from Linton-on-Ouse. He gained considerable success operating over England in the intruder role being awarded the Ritterkreuz on 9 July 1941 for 11 victories, the first night-fighter pilot to receive this decoration. His success did not come without cost.On four occasions he returned to his base at Gilze-Rijen with his Ju 88 operating on one engine only. On one occasion he returned with a British balloon cable wrapped around one wing. Leutnant Hahn was slightly injured on 31 July 1941 when his aircraft crashed on take-off from Gilze-Rijen. He shot down a RAF Wellington twin-engined bomber over Scunthorpe on the night of 16 August 1941 but debris from the bomber hit his aircraft putting one engine out action. Once again he had to bring his aircraft back to base on one engine. On the night of 11 October 1941 he attacked a RAF Oxford twin-engined trainer over Grantham. During the attack his aircraft collided with the target and he perished with his crew in Ju 88 C-4 (W.Nr. 0851) R4+NL. Hans Hahn was credited with 12 victories. All his victories were scored on night intruder missions over the Bristish Isles. I've been awaiting a moonlit evening for sometime now. On the occasions previously its been too windy or raining to risk taking the model outside. Last night the sky was clear and no wind, but still nerve racking having to balance it on a small table 3ft in the air! Camera on a tripod, ISO 200, Manual exposure and focus and shutter speeds from 8 to 20 seconds. I'll get some proper studio type shots before the GB finishes. Aaron
  10. Here's my entry to the build. Its the same one I was going to do for the Junkers GB but ran out of time. Revells 88A-1 AM bits for it New AM bits just added! CMK exterior set (I want to show the dinghy to break up the black) Profimodeller's ladder and pitot Revells boxing of the ICM kit (same model half the price!) Vulcans Motorcycle and sidecar And finally Tanks figure which is pretty close to the pose in the pics! I started last weekend and will post up the progress pics where I'm up to later on Aaron
  11. Hi Guys. Just want to share my last project.. i called it "Odd". This is my second AFV model. I finish this one two years ago... after that i start lots of model... finish zero... this year I intend to do it much better! This is 1:72 Dragon Maus and figure. The Aircraft is the old CMK Kanzan in 1:72... I start this project just for good fun... and I really enjoy it... The harder task was painting the 1:72 figure... No totally happy with it... Sorry for the pics... not very good ones. Fran
  12. 1:48 Heinkel He 177A undercarriage set CMK Catalogue # 4176 Available from CMK for €31,80 It's taken me a little time to fathom out this specific detail set. We recently reviewed the He 177 engine set, and of course, this protrudes into the wheel well area of this behemoth. Now we have the undercarriage set itself, with a significant area of overlap. What we'll try to do here is to explain to you this set from two standpoints. The first will be fitting this set without the engine detail set, and then we'll look at what you'll need to do if you wish to install both of these into your MPM 1:48 He 177. As with the engine set we've just looked at, this set in packaged within the same style yellow and black trademark box that we are used to seeing with many of the more intense CMK resin detail sets. This sturdy little box has a top opening flap, and within, there are TWO bags of resin parts, and a single A4 instruction sheet, folded into an A4 size mini booklet. Opening the first, smaller bag, I'm getting a sense of Déjà vu. A quick glance at the instruction booklet does nothing to destroy that impression. The construction of this set starts in the very same way as that of the engine detail set, i.e. in the forward spar area which of course doubles up as the bulkhead section for the engines, but of course.....there are no engines in this set (or so you might think!). Does this make sense so far? The construction of that spar area is about 90% identical to that of the engine set, so you will already appreciate that if you wish to install both sets, you will have a significant number of spare, duplicate parts left over from the first stages of construction. Onto the spare are fitted many of the same parts as the previous sets, including the inner ribs, but now we see a change. Instead of fitting the plastic, outboard ribs that are supplied with the kit, instead a resin rib with an integral gear well roof, is now installed, creating a unit that has both an enclosed inboard and outboard section. Normally, the engines would fit into the centre area. It's at this juncture where you can of course go down two different paths. If you wish to install the engines, then you would fit the engine module to the spar in the same way that you did with the parts in the engine set. However, if you don't want to use the engine set, then the undercarriage set comes complete with a module which represents the rear detail of the engine. It is cheating, but of course, you do need to still see this detail in the wheel well. Unlike the engine set though, no resin exhausts are included here. There is another, larger bag of resin here, and with the exception of a few parts which are used for the 'common' assembly and dummy engine block, the rest are very specific to the undercarriage area itself. The most obvious parts are the replacement wheels. These are 'weighted' and treadles, therefore look correct in that aspect. The hub detail, including the hydraulic line, is perhaps a little rudimentary, but are certainly good enough for this set. I would maybe replace that line with a short length of wire. Replacement undercarriage doors are also included here too, which are thinly cast, with some very nice internal detail. The one issue I have with all of these particular parts is that the casting block connection protrudes onto the exterior face. On the larger door, the inner recess makes the wall so thin that you will need to pay particular care in removing the parts and cleaning them up. Building the kit out of box, the outboard gear doors are moulded closed. Of course, with this set, you can now pose them open, revealing those wheel bays. Parts are also included here for the hot air ducting that fits in these outboard wells. As with the previous set, resin casting is excellent, with everything manufactured in creamy, yellow resin, with the exception of the wheels which are a little darker. Some casting blocks will need careful removal, so take your time. Again, instructions are printed on a single A4 sheet, folded into an A5 booklet. A parts map and colour reference chart (Humbrol), are supplied, and all illustration is given as simple line drawings that are easy to follow. Conclusion With the amount of visual detail generated in the actual wheel bays, I would say that this set is really aimed at those who want to super-detail their model, as the main, outboard gear doors were commonly closed anyway, with the aircraft on the ground. Maybe this set is more applicable if you want to produce a maintenance diorama etc, or if you like to pose your models on mirrors so you can see the detail underneath. The inclusion of the rear engine module is a nice touch though, and the gear doors and wheels to offer something over the standard kit parts. For me, this is still a nice set, and it does make sense for me to add it simply because I'm also going to display the engines. Apart from that, it is a reasonable extra cost to a model that will already cost you €100. If you like the whole enchilada, then go for it! Recommended My sincere thanks to CMK for this review sample. To purchase directly, click THIS link. James H
  13. 1:48 Heinkel He 177A-5 engine set CMK Catalogue # 4174 Available from CMK for €31,80 This is hardly a new set, being almost 10 years old now, but when we get the opportunity to take a look at some of the relatively vintage kits and aftermarket products, then we don't shy away from it. That is certainly true when, a decade later, there is still no other kit or aftermarket solution from any other manufacturer. MPM's 1:48 Heinkel He 177 'Greif' is still the only game in town, and even in quarter-scale, cuts an imposing presence. Thankfully, SP&R have been sent not only the 'Hi-Tech' version of this kit (reviewed next week), but also two resin detail sets. Today, we look at the engine set. CMK's He 177 engine set is packed into one of their familiar top-flap opening cardboard boxes, attractively printed in their yellow and black trademark style, and sporting line drawings of the He 177 and a snapshot of the engine installation. Inside that box, we have a single zip-lock wallet containing over 40 pieces of pale, creamy yellow resin, and of course an instruction sheet. Firstly, you need to know that despite this set having two Daimler Benz DB605 engines, only one engine nacelle is catered for. Of course, the He 177 actually had four engines, but coupled in pairs. Two DB605 engines created a single unit designated as DB610. The two engines here are designed to be displayed in one of either wing, therefore there is no provision for having both engine nacelles opened up. The actual engine nacelle was partially buried within the wing of the He 177, with both coupled engines angled, reducing the overall depth of the nacelle so that if could fit within the wing structure without any deep bulges. Of course, this means that displaying the engines will naturally give away a little of the wing interior detail too, and this is of course included within this set. A certain amount of surgery is also required in order to fit this upgrade, but you'll be thankful to know that that aspect is very simple. Essentially, all you need to do is to cut away the two engine cowls from the plastic upper wing part. That's it! I would maybe consider just thinning the edge of the plastic at this point too, making look a little more scale in appearance. Construction centres around the main, forward spar. Depending on whether you wish to fit the engines into the port or starboard wing, spars are provided for both sides, as of course the shape of them is specific to each wing. Make your choice directly at the outset. Two sets of identical resin inner wing ribs are also included, despite only one set being used. This is puzzling, so perhaps you could display the remaining nacelle with the engines removed too? Onto the spar fits a couple of plastic ribs and gussets which are supplied within the kit. A little pipework finished the spar/engine bulkhead section. The spar itself is highly detailed, with much structural detail being exhibited, and of course some wiring and plumbing. CMK haven't supplied complete engines with this, as the forward hub won't be seen. The remainder of the engine actually looks pretty comprehensive, with excellent detail throughout, including the cylinder head blocks and fine ignition wiring. Fuel injectors can be seen underneath the engine, yet this detail won't easily be seen unless you plan to cutaway panels from the underside of the nacelle. Some detail will be seen though the wheel well, however. One side of each engine (opposites) has a block cast to it with two sockets. These sockets glue into a central former which angles the engines properly. This looks a little odd to be because I've seen one of these engines, and the coupling is direct, and not though a reasonably thick wall. I'm assuming that this is here simply to allow the assembly to fit into the host model. Once installed, you really shouldn't notice this at all. Each engine is cast with a supercharger which are fitted to the outside of the DB610 unit. Exhausts are also supplied for this set, and CMK give sets for both sides, so you can match the external detail. Having removed the engine cowl doors from the plastic, you'll need some resin replacements, and of course, they are supplied in this set. These are suitably thin, with internal structural detail. No detail is present externally, but this mirrors the model itself. All resin is superbly cast, with no visible flaws seen on my sample. Casting block connections are so designed for easy removal. One resin cowl door hinge is missing from my set, having been knocked off the casting block, but this is easily replaced with plasticard or PE. A single A4 instruction sheet is supplied, printed in black and white. This starts with a parts plan for identifying the components, and also information on what part of the kit's plastic needs removing. Construction is shown as a series of line drawings, which are all clear to see and should present no problem in following. Colour call-outs are supplied throughout construction, with Humbrol codes being supplied, and a simple colour description too. Conclusion If you like the detail side of building, then I presume that the Hi-Tech version of the He 177 would be the one you'd choose to buy. This set takes increases the detail levels even further, supplementing the resin already in the host kit, and taking your He 177 to another stage. Ideal for dioramas and of course those of us who have a voyeuristic nature when it comes to wanting to pose various cowls and panels in an open state. Everything here appears to be simple enough to build and implement, and well within the capability of most modellers. Highly recommended My sincere thanks to CMK for sending the review sample shown here. To purchase directly, click THIS link. James H
  14. 1:32 Bf 109E engine set (for Eduard kit) CMK Catalogue # 5033 Available from CMK for 37,80€ Eduard's 1:32 Bf 109E has been out for a while now, and we have reviewed several incarnations here on SP&R. Indeed, Eduard also released numerous detail sets for their kit, with the Brassin engine and gun mount coming to mind foremost. Back in 2010, CMK, also well known for their high grade resin detail sets, released their engine upgrade for this kit too. As SP&R/Large Scale Modeller now work with MPM/CMK, we have been given an opportunity to take a look at some items from the fairly recent back-catalogue, with this set being first up. Unlike the Eduard set, where you mount the engine into the plastic lower cowl, this set includes a new lower cowl, specifically designed to fit an engine upgrade. Time to look further. The CMK Bf 109E engine set is packaged into a sturdy little cardboard box, attractively decorated with an image of the assembled and installed set. You'll notice that this set does actually include the rear bulkhead, weapons tray and ammunition containers. No guns are included though. Inside the box, two bags of resin components are included, as is a small decal sheet containing numbers from which you can add the characteristic serial numbers which were often sprayed onto the crankcase. This set comprises around FIFTY parts, cast in creamy, light grey resin. Many parts are individually cast, with a number of small components, such as exhaust manifolds and engine bearer attachment points being cast upon communal blocks. One block itself is duplicated due to kit requirements. All parts are split between 2 ziplock wallets, with the larger, main components in one bag, and the majority smaller components in another. For visual clarity, I have removed a few feathery resin flash bits from around the casting blocks. This helps me to pose the items better too, without them falling over, and gives you a better impression of the parts themselves. The Bf 109's cowlings are broken down into the 3 main parts representing the lower cowl/tray, upper cowl, and also the rear cowl which covers the MG mount and weapons tray. These are cast suitable thin, and the interiors of these are fully detailed with the stiffening strips and other constructional elements of the real thing. There are various openings and other apertures on these cowls which will just need to be opened up as a thin resin web covers them. The parts are joined to their casting blocks via narrow wall of resin, and look very easy to remove. My only gripe is that the upper cowl is joined to that wall, which runs the full face width of the cowl, running across the crescent-shaped former. Some care will need to be taken here. External detail is excellent, and runs in line with the subtle effects that Eduard created for their kit exterior. The lower cowl portion is cast with a separate radiator housing tray, which of course can then be posed in an open position, displaying the DB601's plumbing and radiator assembly. Also within the large components packet we find the engine bay rear bulkhead/firewall, complete with plumbing and valve detail, plus the ammunition containers which sit on the bulkhead shelf. A little minor cleanup of the rear faces will be required, and I do mean minor! There is very little resin to remove here before the parts are ready for assembly. Over the top of these parts sits the weapons tray. This is also to be found in this bag. The tray itself is superbly detailed, including wiring, and will require a larger casting block to be removed from its underside. This part also has the leather cover for the rear instrument panel face, cast in situ, and looking rather nice. Unsurprisingly, the last part to be found in this packet is the main engine part itself. CMK have cleverly connected the part to its casting block via the top face of the crankcase. When the block is removed, an upper detail part is then to be fitted, hiding that face fully. The resin block connection is quite thick here, and time will be needed to properly remove all traces of it. The rear of the engine block has a couple of thin resin walls which will need to be removed, but this will be an easy task. The rear of the engine, with magneto detail etc, is supplied as a separate part, and again covers the area where you removed the resin walls. Detail on the engine really is excellent. Ignition leads are neatly cast, and exhaust manifold connection plates have their connecting bolt detail neatly sculpted. Lifting lugs and other minor detail is also sharply recreated, as is general bolt detail. The forward hub/boss detail is cast in situ here, and not supplied as an extra part, and the finish is every bit as good as you could expect. There are various plumbing points cast in situ too, and these should need no cleanup when it comes to fitting the remaining detail. It's within the second bag that we now find the remainder of the parts. These include the radiator assembly, plumbing, glycol tank, oil tank, supercharger intake and external scoop, fuel injectors, individual manifold stubs with partially hollow ends, engine bearers, crankcase lid, and other minor detail. Some parts, such as the finer lengths of pipe, are quite delicate, and care needs to be taken when handling. Others similar parts are cast with fine resin webs helping to maintain the parts integrity. Minimal cleanup will be needed with all parts once removed. Nowhere on any resin part can I see any seams, or certainly anything approaching an even minor one. Casting is absolutely first-class with all parts being defect-free and also free of any possible damage from being packed and in transit. This set contains no photo etch parts, but you will need a little wire in order to supplement some of the finer detail included as resin. Instructions are supplied as a single A4 sheet, folded. All illustration is clear and concise, and should present no problem during both assembly and installation. Although there are few paints listed on the rear of the instructions, no ready call-outs are given for individual components, so please check your reference. Google is littered with photos of the DB601 in museums, so you should have no difficulty. A parts plan is also supplied to help you identify the various components. The decal sheet contains the individual serial numbers, allowing you to create your own either correct or fictitious code. The numbers are printed in yellow ink, and the decal sheet is made by Aviprint, and is thinly printed. Conclusion The Eduard Bf 109E is still a very buildable kit, and looks superb when completed, despite the infamous 'humped' rear fuselage. If you want to try your hand at this sometime, this set could well be worth looking at. Production is clean, and assembly is easy, yet the detail included is some of the very best I've seen. Also, this set is very realistically priced, which these days seems to be a key factor with many folks modelling purchases. Give this set a try. When I get around to building my next Emil, I'll be adding this little beauty myself! Highly recommended James H Our sincere thanks to CMK for the review set we looked at here. To purchase directly, click THIS link.
  15. 1/32 Heinkel He111 Exhausts – assorted versions CMK For Revell He111 P & H kits €7 per set from CMK Shop I reviewed the generally pretty good Revell He111 H-6 kit earlier this year here, and in the review touched upon the differences between the P and H variants, including changes in the types of exhaust used. Unsurprisingly, although you can see the exhausts changing as you progress through the production run, a number of exhaust types overlap different variants. The main difference between the P and early members of the H series was the power plant: the DB601 of the P being substituted for the Jumo 211 series (Daimler Benz's engine being prioritised for use in the Messerschmitt Bf109). The P and H look very similar, but can be distinguished by different engine cowlings: the P has the supercharger intake on the port side of each engine nacelle, whereas the H has it to starboard. There are of course other differences and things to look out for. The exhausts in the P-1 kit The kit exhausts in the H-6 kit The H-1 and H-2 used the Jumo 211A, the H-3, -4 and -5 the 211D, and the H-6 to H-20 variants used the Jumo 211F. Early Hs are seen with slightly different engine nacelles: the oil cooler intake on top of the nacelle is much slimmer, resulting in a smoother appearance; the supercharger intake lacks the tubular cowling that runs the most of the length of the nacelle. I had thought this feature was limited to H-1s and -2s, but at least one RAF Intelligence Report on a crashed He111 lists a H-3 with these early engine cowls and being powered by the Jumo 211D. The lack of a definitive reference on the 111 means this is just one of a number questions that seems to have no conclusive answer. The second Revell kit is a H-6, and as such has the correct later style cowlings with deeper oil cooler, and extended supercharger intake. Pipe exhaust on early H model – note shortened supercharger intake and rather flat area over oil cooler Fishtail exhausts – seen here on a P variant, but also common on the H as well The more complicated variant with 'fins' I have identified four main types of exhausts used on the P and early to mid Hs. Early Ps have separate but rounded exhaust tubes, as supplied in the P-1 kit. Secondly, there are for want of a better description 'fishtail' exhausts with flame dampeners which can be seen on both Ps and Hs, up to and including the H-6, and it is these which are included in the kit. The real things are quite complicated affairs, so I am not surprised that Revell's depiction is rather crude. From the references and pictures I have looked at, this type seems particularly common, and can be seen on both Ps and Hs, from pre Battle of Britain, through to North Africa and the war on the Eastern Front. The third type is much simpler, and consists of a single tube; there appear to have been variations of these. The fourth type you will see looks from a distance (or in a low resolution WWII pic) similar to the fish tail type. On closer inspection, each exhaust outlet has a number of cooling fins. To date I have only seen these on H-6s, and not on earlier variants. Q32-163 He111 H-1 The first set here is Q32-163, labelled as for the H-1 variant. It comprises four exhausts, plus two cowling side panels, and a shortened supercharger intake, as seen in early (H-1 to H-3) models. The exhausts look good, and are hollowed out approx 3-4mm; you could always hollow them out more if you wish. The instructions are pretty clear – this is the only set that really requires instructions in my view. I did a quick test fit and the cowling replacement panels seem a pretty good fit with the kit parts. The main issue with this set is that for a true H-1 to H-3, you will need a flattened oil cooler intake, and this is only available in the more comprehensive set from CMK, Q32-5073 (I have not seen this set, so cannot verify its accuracy). Q32-165 He111 H-4 to H-8 The set is labelled H4-8, but in reality this type of exhaust were also seen on P variants. CMK have got these ones pretty much dead on in my opinion – they look very much like the real thing, and should just slot in to which ever kit you have. Q32-166 He111 H-10 to H-16 The labelling here is misleading: these exhausts with the cooling fins are clearly seen on H-6 variants- although I have not seen them on anything earlier – in addition to later models. I have not yet verified exactly how far along in the production run they went. These are probably the hardest ones to replicate accurately, because of the cooling fins. Revell failed miserably, and although the CMK set is quite a bit better – from a distance they look convincing enough, especially front or side-on – I am not sure they have got the shape correct. When viewed from the rear, the CMK sets are solid, whereas there should be a separate 'hole' for exhaust stub. Instead, CMK have merely cut grooves for the fins into what is otherwise a solid stub. Q32-167 He111 H-16 to H-23 I have not yet researched the later variants in the same depth as the P or H-1 to H-6, so once again I cannot comment on whether these were seen on variants outside the range given in the title. The shape and size do look a good match when compared to photographs, however. This was the only set where there were any quality control issues – one of the long exhaust cones was not cast all the way through, and had a small hole in it. Fixable, but a bit annoying. Conclusion On the whole, these sets are clearly a vast improvement on the kit offerings, and really open up the number of variants or specific airframes you can make. You will need to consult your references though, and I would not consider using one of these sets just on the basis of how they are labelled. The only set which was nothing more than mediocre was 32-166: I can see how those cooling fins were just too challenging to do anything more ambitious with, but I still think they have made errors in shape when viewed from the rear. Recommended With thanks to CMK for the review samples. To purchase directly, click THIS link. Nicholas Mayhew
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