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  1. This should be a reletivly quick build. A nice little Pak 40 I haven't done a ambush or AT gun before so should learn some things on this. Model is made by Tamiya
  2. Hi folks!! Well its the first day of 2021 and we already have a few great news of upcoming releases!! We could use this topic for post all news that will appear this yes... But for now we already got announced for this year 1:32 P-40B from Great Wall Hobby 1:35 (YES, 1:35) - Bf-109 G-6 from Border Models 1:35 (YES , 1:35) - JU-87G also from Border Models. Also saw on Revell newsletter that they are reissuing the 1:32 Gloster Gladiator (ICM models). A very good start!!
  3. Hola Señhores, last week, I had enough from all the summer distractions, like work in the house and garden, having friends visiting me, barbecues, swimming and used some rainy days, to start a hopefully fast in- between project, the Tamiya 1/48 KI-61, added with some Kabuki masks from HGW, Brassin barrels, which got lost , an Eduard Löök resin IP and seat belts and last but not least, HGW's camo wet transfers, which I want to try with this build. After some enjoyable hours, I finished the cockpit, which is a lot brighter, than the dull German fighter pits. The fit was Tamiya like, flawless and I really liked the seemingly new designed seatbelts, made from printed PE, which came with Eduard's Löök instrument panel. The PE is ultra thin, compared to other sets, I used in the past, folds almost like paper and have tiny holes in the belts, très cool. The IP itself, is color printed on cast resin and looks a bit toyish for my liking, but as I planned to have the canopy closed, with the pilot sitting in, I decided, it's good enough. I managed to close the fuselage, with the simple engine inserted, which will not be seen with the cowling closed, so it got only a coat of black and an iron pigment rub. The whole cockpit is inserted, after gluing together the fuselage halves from the underside and fitted without problems. I added the wings and the tail in a breeze, with no gaps to fill and no extra work needed. After the detail painting of the cockpit, everything is speeding up with this build, exactly what I hoped for. The only letdown, is the pilot figure, which I intended to use. After some basic painting, I stopped, when I couldn't find the eyes in that blob like face and decided to put no further effort into that bownish smurf, oh my, Tamiya, what have you done with this figure. Cheers Rob
  4. Buon Giorno Amici, I have a Tamiya run lately for no special reason and this time I go LS. The Tamiya kit rpresents the Ducati 1199 Panigale and will be finished in the Tricolore design. You have to love European motorcycles for being only half the weight of the average American bike with at least double the acceleration and real handling. I know a bit provocative, but there are other reasons to love them. As they are high tech products, you will have to replicate dozens of different metal correctly, which attracted this project to me. When I lived in Berlin I had a KTM 950 SM, which drove like a sharp blade through the heavy traffic in Berlin. I loved this bike, but left it in Berlin and promise my wife not to buy one for my tiny island. This is the kit: I opted for the metal fork set. The plastic looks very nicely casted with the exception of the clear canopy dome, which is quite distorted. As it's very prominent, I will buy a vac-formed substitute. One other irritating thing is the color call outs in the manual. For the engine you need to paint single parts in different, mostly metal colors. I haven't counted, but already used more than ten different metal colors and some of them has to be mixed, which makes it quite confusing to follow the steps, without forgetting to paint some detail this way or another. Cheers Rob
  5. Here are some pics of my Ta-152 from Zoukei Mura on a diorama called „Willi Reschke“. The model was built out of box with EagleCals decals. The pilot is from Aires and the fuel barrel out of a Tamiya set with a hose out of lead-wire. Paints came from Tamiya and Gunze. The metal surfaces were painted with Alclad. I made the engine-cowls open- and closeable. Lots of sanding and plastic sheet needed. Won‘t do it again. Thanks for looking. Kai
  6. Hola fellow car lovers and modelistas, A while ago I got some relatively cheap car kits and among them was this kit of Tamiya's Ford GT MK.II. My first thought was to build it and give the body a paintjob made by rubbed metallic waxes from AK in bronze and copper tones, but then I bought an 1/12 Tamiya Porsche and a Lotus Ford type 79 and decided, to approach the Ford GT a little bit more serious, as a test mule for all these mysterious car paint techniques, I have no idea about. The kit itself is a gem, with great fit and clever engineering and goes together in a breeze, so this WIP-light will be about painting and finishing. The kit includes nicely flat chromed wheels, metal stickers and decals beside the plastic and pre cut (yes you read right) Kabuki masks for the windows. The kit is not overly komplex, so I cut all the parts from the sprues and cleaned them up, before painting. I decided to give Tamiya lacquer colors a shot with this build and until now, they behaved phenomenal. They spray absolutely flawless, fine grained and have the right finish. I used no primer and had no issues with these colors being too hot. First I managed some detail painting, which involved a lot of masking for the brakes and engine parts, with fluid or Kabuki masks. The LED-lights are great, the projectors sprayed with titanium silver and enhanced with black panel liner. The clear parts were masked with the supplied masks on the inside for windshield and rear window and from the outside in case of the side windows, to have different black shades for different materials. Hard to see on the pictures, the windshield got a lower frame sprayed matte black from the outside, which again involved more masking. Note the big tabs, which ensure, that there will be no glue stains on the window. Next was the interior and as a change from RLM66, I used different black tones, including matte and semi matte, some titanium accents on the seats and the orange red applications. Thrére are still some decals to apply. Then, I put all my courage together and sprayed the body with light heavy thinned passes of mica blue. The finish is very fine and even and I really like it as a base. Im not sure, being a car rook, how to proceed next. First polishing or first clear coating in preparation for the decal stripes, If you have suggestions, I'm really interested in. So far for now. Cheers Rob
  7. I wasn’t going to post this but Harvey told me too . This was a ten year project. It was a kit that got me back into building after five year hiatus . So I decided just to finish it. Some of the DECALS silvered. But it’s done! It has a scratch built extra fuel tank behind the pilot, Plus P-51 Mustang drop tanks. The story behind this was as I was taking care of my grandmother while she was sick. When she passed away I stopped working on it. So I started back on it at the 10 year anniversary of her death. Also wanted it done before her birthday Which is in a week
  8. I've been thinking it's time I built a plane again. I was going to do the Tempest but have wanted to build my favourite prop plane and Ernie's hotel build sort of tipped the balance that way. Anyways, I dug through the stash and pulled out the most disheveled kit of the three. It disheveled as I had dumped a bunch of the leftover kit and AM buys from my other two Corsairs into the box. There's several sets of paint masks, some incomplete, leftover parts, Aires bits for a Trumpeter Corsair, rubber tires. One critical bit, the main spar is assembled in the folded position. As the plane I'm planning to do was built without a folding wing I had to swap that out along with the requisite sprue for an unfolded one. Here's the plane I'm planning to do: The weather beaten and touched up paint job has a certain appeal to me and will fit in nicely with my two other Corsairs.
  9. So here it is as of 2010 before it was rescued from "The Shelf of Dooooooommmm!" What it started as.... WIP here - http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/810-rescued-from-the-shelf-of-dooooomm-tamiya-mkviii-spit/ And finished as Lt. Bill Skinner's Lonesome Polecat of the 308th Fighter Squadron, 31st Fighter Group, Castel Volturno, Italy, April 1944. Quickboost exhausts, Barracuda Resin Wheels and Mk.VIII decals were used for the National Markings and some stencils that were applied. Tamiya Decals used for the Nose art, kill markers and Squadron Codes. Weathered using AK Interactive and some of the Tamiya Weathering Master set.
  10. This one's for Martin! This is my current Tamiya Spitfire build. The plan is to do it as JE-J jr with her infamous ModXXX beer barrels. Profimideller make a conversion set for this but they make you assemble the barrels from individual staves. Not being a cooper, i couldn't make that work for me so I found some wood barrels in a suitable size: Much easier. JE-J Jr is a IXe so I had to modify the wing armament to match. AML make a suitable conversion set so I used that. Cannon barrels are from Master. The engine all assembled and ready for her cradle. Now to start on the cockpit. Carl
  11. Ok I guess it's time I started a thread on this build since it's gone beyond just a set of tracks. I picked this up since it looked like an interesting kit and both and the Modelkasten tracks were on sale. Knowing that the tracks would be the stumbling block, I decided to start with those. Modelkasten gives you a jig to help assemble them. You remove the track links from their sprue, palace them in the jig and then insert the individual pins into each one. To make things easier, the pins are on those long sprues and once glued in place, just trim them off. Otherwise, here's a pin on its own. I spread out the track building over a couple days and did them in 20 link sections. Each side has 94 links. Here's the leftover sprue gates from once the tracks were done.
  12. Hi, am just back off holiday and ordered these for my first ever group build. I was looking for inspiration and found this photo, it was taken in Italy, but I am transplanting to Normandy. I will park the Carrier to the rear of the house. Really looking forward to the build. I just have a few bits to finish on two others and then this is next on the list. Cheers Kev
  13. I definitely need at least a couple for my kids as they've knocked over a bottle or two of cement. Of course I've knocked over a bottle or two of cement at some point so maybe I should get a few... Link for ordering: https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/10660542 Carl
  14. Well it seems I have a bad case of squirrelitis as I've pulled yet another kit out of the stash and I'm, started it. The plan is to do it OOB and just get her done from start to finish. Well, that's the plan. Carl
  15. Taking a break from some "therapeutic" resin builds and conversions I decided to go smaller scale with this Mossie. Will build as PR variant. Current WIP's SH Tempest Mk.V, TAM A6M2b and TRU P40B tucked away while I tackle this project.
  16. Salut les messieurs, get your Gauloises between your lips and enjoy some Camembert with some vine rouge , its time for some French feelings with the build of this early war beast. After finalizing my Dottie Mae, I decieded that it is time to finish some kits which where lurking in their boxes for a long time. Some years ago, back in Berlin, I build the Char B1 and it was completely tamiyaesque, meaning great. What makes the kit even better than most others by the brand, are the single link clickable tracks, which are fully moveable and durable enough for painting and weathering. The Char B1 to me has a special attraction, it looks like a beast from another time and has a little steampunk attitude in it. I was thinking more than once, that a conversion to a steam driven 'landship' would have been appealing, but then there are the great Colour schemes for French tanks, they clearly have a knack for that. For a start I sprayed the whole tank with 'Warm Sand' from the Mig range and added masks from J's Work for the camo. These mask sets are great for hard edged camo on flat, detail free surfaces. They are precut in Kabuki and adhere good. The second Colour, 'Pale Green', also from a Mig set was then applied. And that's where I am know with that French colossus. The figures might be used for a little Dio, but that's not already decided. Cheers Rob
  17. Hi gents, started this proyect some years ago and now I'm ready to finish this amazing tamiya kit, cheers! Antonio. this is my progres with the cockpit so far.
  18. This is my first completed build of the year, it was built as part of the Grumman GB. This build was originally planned to be a Hasegawa F-14D with Aires Cockpit and Avionix’s “Bombcat” Update/Conversion kit. But as luck would have it I won the monthly raffle at my local IPMS and took home Tamiya’s awesome new 1/48th F-14D!! I can’t rave enough about this model, it’s truly beautiful and without doubt one of the nicest models I’ve ever built. I had planned for her to be an OBB but she needed a few extras to her just to finish her off. The OEM wheels are rubber/metal and rubber wheels only look good for a year or two before they start to perish. The ejector seats and exhaust cans just lack detail when compared to the rest of the model and sort of let it down, so they were replaced. For such fine detail throughout the model I needed a paint to capture this and Mr Paint Acrylic Lacquers are just incredible!! They go on so fine straight from the bottle and give a perfect finish. Best of all you don’t loose detail, in spots there are 18 layers of paint and the detail is still super crisp, I so love this paint. The only let down on the whole project was the decals, they were a bit old and for the Revell/Hasegawa model, which I found didn’t fit or line up correctly in a few very noticeable spots! But in the end I’m super happy with the results, I know I’ll have to build another one of these models, maybe an F-14A next time……..or maybe a 1/32ndversion!! Model: 1/48thTamiya Grumman F-14D Tomcat Paint: Mr Paint (main) and Mr Hobby, Tamiya Acrylics, Model Master Metalizer Lacquers Extras: KA Models – F-14D GE Exhaust Nozzle set Quickboost – F-14 Ejection Seats Quickboost – F-14 Wheel set SuperScale Decals – F-14D VF-31 CAG Operation Freedom Iraq Thanks for looking and please enjoy.
  19. I am sure most of you are in the same position... Trying to finish those last projects for 2018! I just managed to knock this one off a few moments ago that I started back in March. As per normal.. Family life, work and another round of back surgery have keep me busy. Having some free time today, I picked this one up an managed to finish it was it was pretty much weathering that I had to complete. It's my 4th Tank I have ever built. Tamiya's 1/35 Jagdpanzer IV /70 Lang. Built from the box, but I did use Kaizen tracks. Painted using Mission Models Paints, Camo was painted free hand. and weathered using AK Interactive Washes and Pigments.
  20. Buenos Dias, friends of the tool heavy workbench, I have a very special relationship towards photoetched parts in modelling. I love to work with metal, enjoy the enhancement of detail and after applying PE sometimes I whish, it would not be necessary to paint these parts because of the luster shine. On the other hand PE can be a real PITA and has the tendency to unify itself with the carpet monster even more than plastic parts. Over the years I used lots of tools for working with PE, there were bending tools, rolling tools, pliers and tweezers and all of them were helpful, but there was something missing between the pliers and a fine tweezer and then I bought this little gem. It is the Tamiya Bending Tweezers (for Photo-Etched Parts) with the Item No: 74117. I got it six weeks ago and I absolutely love that tool. It has become a nearly universal tool for small PE parts. Because of it's short tweezer tips which are finely grinded with sharp angles you can apply enough force to hold PE-parts in place and bend them around the edges. The smallness of the tips make it easy to bend complicated three-dimensonal forms. Another advantage is, that with mentioned small PE parts, there is a much reduced need for tool changes, because of the versatile design. I highly recommend this little helper. It improved my enthusiasm with small PE parts a lot, because of the easiness of use and it's versatility. Tools should make live easier and this one is a very fine example. Cheers Rob
  21. Tamiya A4e 1/32 skyhawk kit converted to RNZAF A4k skyhawk NZ6209. Currently on static display at Ardmore Warbirds hanger Auckland. Aires cockpit, seat, wheel wells. Scratch built instrument panel A few bits and pieces moved around, tail straightened Scratch built intake covers Ladder by Profimodellor Custom decals by Simon Hutton at KitbuilderNZ
  22. This is my 1st post with LSM. This project was a commissioned build for a customer in CA, USA. I had built a 1/32 Trumpeter AVG P-40, and a 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1A. So he needed to have the nemesis to these 2 birds so hence came the Zero project. It was built OOB except for the add-on decal sheet by BERNA decals. I have included many of the build photos in this post so you can get an idea of the progression in this build with several of the techniques used. He enjoys WW2 aircraft that are heavily worn and beat up so this build was not exception to that desire. We had a difficult time finding a picture of a Zero in this color scheme (Early IJN Grey/Green) that showed the wear of the green versions, mostly b/c black and white photos do not show the wear as well, and many of these early Zeros were destroyed before they got to this point, or just repainted. We did find a few and I stayed close to the appearance and patterns of wear illustrated in the photographs. Note: The reddish/brown marks are not rust. It is the reddish/brown primer showing through prior to the raw aluminium appearing. Regarding the decals. I was not completely satisfied with the BERNA decals for several reasons. 1. The tail decals required precision cutting to span across the break between the rudder and vertical stab. These decals did not have those cuts and it added a high level of frustration and required patience to try and get this right. I messed up a few times with the cuts. To my surprise the Tamiya decal sheet had the exact same blue stripe for the tail matching the color perfectly with the cuts already made. So I used the Tamiya decal for this purpose. 2. The BERNA decals just would not settle into the fine surface detail anywhere on this kit. I think they were a bit on the thick side. I used multiple solutions to include setting solution and solvents. I tried using a hair dryer on these stubborn decals but they still did not settle well. Also they did not adhere well in general some of them falling off after they dried. After this experience with the BERNA decals I decided to use the Tamiya decals for the remainder of the kit except on the tail, which I had no choice but to use the BERNA set. Regarding the kit in general: 1. Well its a 1/32 Tamiya so I did expect perfection and for the most part I got what I expected. The surface detail is out of this wold and makes this whole kit. You will be able to really notice this high level of detail in the included pictures especially after the various washes were applied to highlight this detail. 2. The kit fit perfectly for 85% of the build. In this area I expected 100% perfection but Tamiya blew it in a few areas. Most of these imperfections were a result of trying to incorporate complicated moving parts using PE as a hinge mechanism. The hinges were steel and strong but to side for many of the applications on the control surfaces and the hinge support for the folded wing options. This made sandwiching these PE parts between part halves very difficult. I ended up omitting this on the elevator surfaces so I did not get any movement. The other surfaces retained their ability to move. The flaps move but just hang down due to gravity. Keep in mind this kit did not require any filler and very little sanding. The tolerance level on this kit, like all the newer 1/32 Tamiya kits are very tight. You must be perfect with assembly or the tight tolerances will bite you in the following steps. Follow the directions perfectly. 3. The retracting landing gear is a gimmick and not worth the effort, and even if you put in the effort it may not work, and/or shortly break when playing with it. The landing gear doors assemblies are the most frustrating part in this build and just do not work well and really hinder the overall build experience. If you have built other 1/32 Tamiya aircraft which followed this kit you will notice that they eliminated most of these sort of features, and the overall assembly experience with those latter kits are much better. I do give Tamiya credit for trying, but they just did not get it right. It is very over-engineered IMHO. 4. Overall, despite a few glitches, it is still a Tamiya kit and well worth the asking price, especially if you get a good deal. I paid under $70 for this kit but needed to wait 2-weeks for delivery from the Asian market. It is a very good value at this price especially considering you do not need any after-market parts to have a highly detailed museum quality model. Highlights are: as already mentioned, the fine, highly detailed surface features; the detailed engine and fit of these parts; the removable engine cowling and its overall fit; the separate control surfaces with/without movement; the highly detailed and complete cockpit detail; crystal clear and perfectly fitting canopy and windscreen; excellent documentation, picture guides, and detailed exact assembly instructions (must follow this closely). I hope you enjoy the summary provided above and the included pictures. Please feel free to comment and express your ideas regarding this build.
  23. Haven't posted any progress on this to date but have been beavering away for the last few weeks. The kit, which I'm sure all are familiar with. Goes together like a dream with very little problem and very little seam work. This is the current state of play. Cockpit done and installed but didn't manage to get any pictures at that stage. Used the HGW seatbelts and painted and weathered everything using Ammo's RAF cockpit set. First time I've used the HGW belts and although fiddly they weren't too difficult. I followed the tip I've seen mentioned on a few forums to leave the buckles on the sprue until you've threaded the belts and it certainly helps. Primed with Mr Surfacer 1500, then Vallejo Metal Color pale burnt metal on the leading edges and wing roots. Applied frisket with a toothpick and sponge to try and replicate chipping and foot traffic. Never tried this before, so will be intrigued to see how it turns out after painting. Leading edges painted and masked off - not really visible here as the Tamiya tape and Gunze yellow appear almost identical! Next step is the paint job for which I have Ammo's late RAF colour set. Hope to get started on that this weekend.
  24. Quick blast to get this finished before the holidays. My wife's Xmas nights out have made for good bench time to get this completed. Aircraft I was basing this on was 307 from the First Fighter squadron from the early 2000s. Not perfect but close enough for me. Out of the box but with PWMP tail fairing from J-P van Regenmortel and Isracast Python 4s. Paints are in the main the Ammo Desert Aircraft set with Tamiya acrylics for detail and weapons. Weathering with Ammo panel line washes and filters, etc. Sorry about the hand! As always, comments, critiques, etc welcome.
  25. Just to show I haven't just been lurking on here since I finished the Eagle a few weeks ago. This is the Tamiya F-16CJ kit which I'm going to build as an Israeli F-16C Barak as I want to try some scratch building and the Isracast conversion now seems to be extinct. I have a copy of the instructions from the set and I'm going to try and replicate it as best I can using Evergreen stock. This is the airframe I'm hoping to build. A First Jet squadron aircraft from the late 1990s with a loadout of JDAMs, Python 4 and AIM-9L. I've started as the instructions indicate with the engine. I don't intend to have it on display but I'm giving it full attention just to practice more with the various metallics. Just needs weathered now which hopefully will get done at the weekend. Down the interior was done with various Gunze and Tamiya acrylics then weathered with Tamiya pastels and Ammo panel line washes which darken things up without being too stark. The exterior is mainly Vallejo Metal Color pale burnt metal and jet exhaust with the steel sections done using the Uschi powders. Detail then picked out in Tamiya acrylics. I'm fairly happy with how it looks so far but don't want to go too heavy on the weathering which might be a challenge. As ever, all suggestions, etc welcome.
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