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1:32 Tempest Mk.V Nose Correction Set Barracuda Studios Part # BR32334 Available from Barracuda Studios for USD$24.95 About a year ago Special Hobby released it’s long awaited and highly anticipated 1:32 Hawker Tempest Mk.V. This release was met with many positive overviews. However, there is plenty of angst on several shape issues and fidgety construction. Regardless of the shape/fit issues this kit is a winner with plenty of detail and beautifully engraved panel lines and rivets. James Hatch reviewed SH Hawker Tempest Mk.V “Hi-Tech” kit, SH Hawker Tempest Mk.V “Hi-Tech 2” kit and Jeroen Peters reviewed SH Hawker Tempest Mk.V standard kit. I have the “Hi-Tech kit” and started it awhile back. It’s been an enjoyable build regardless of the fidgety cockpit and wheel well construction giving me fits. Be advised you must pay close attention to the instructions as some parts have unique and perhaps impossible fit characteristics. Then that nose! Immediately, the spinner (prop hub) and radiator opening were hit with incorrect shape reports. Spinner too bulb like and the radiator opening too large. To most modelers the difference is hard to notice and Special Hobby’s Tempest Mk.V builds into an imposing WWII fighter with beautiful detail and splendid scheme options. My cockpit complete with only plumbing to be added and the nose with its nasty multi-part construction in final stages of construction, Roy Sutherland announced in late October 2016 a nose correction set for the SH Hawker Tempest Mk.V will be available late 2016. I immediately binned this build waiting for Roy’s replacement set. Sadly, several other Barracuda projects delayed the release of this correction set. Sad for me. However, not for the 1:48 B1 builders. I regularly checked with Roy on the release status. Finally the release announcement came on 31 August 2017. I placed my order and Roy confirmed I was the 1st to acquire this set. This set is designed to correct the nose, radiator, prop and spinner on the otherwise superb Special Hobby Tempest. Before we move forward I need to give a huge kudos and atta boy to Roy Sutherland. The initial release has some mold imperfections. I relayed this data to Roy and he immediately executed, at great expense, a recall. After the imperfections were addressed and fixed all previously shipped Nose Replacements were replaced. The replacement has a black check inside the nose. This process was nothing short of the quality and dedication to Roy’s business model of Barracuda Studios. First Glance Opening the package reveals typical Barracuda mold quality. Smooth surfaces and finely replicated detail duplicating the detail on the original Special Hobby kit. Instructions must be downloaded from Barracuda Studios website. Be sure to print propeller alignment page at 100%. Nose Pour Stub Removal Pour stub removal will require significant patience, at least for me. The following is how I successfully removed the pour stubs. Skill-sets will vary so take into consideration your ability and my recommendations. Safely removing the nose pour stub will require significant sawing and sanding. To prevent crushing the nose like an egg during the sawing/sanding efforts I recommend inserting two internal braces cut from sprue trees. This photo was shot after I successfully removed the nose pour stub. Note, the black check (indicating this is the updated corrected nose) just port of the spinner hole. I will glue at least one of these internal braces when I'm ready to mount nose to fuselage. These will act as spreader(s) to combat any future "resin warp" that may occur. The Nose pour stub is significant. Instructions will ask you to cut through the stub between the spinner and radiator opening. I decided to thin the pour stub with my rotary tool. The pour stub is thinned between the spinner and radiator opening is now a bit manageable, for me. I stepped outside for this grinding procedure. A lot of dust during this process. PRO TIP - Returning to my bench I dampened a towel and placed on bench surface. This controlled the dust, from sawing and sanding, going all over my bench. The pour stub at the radiator opening was very easy to remove. I once again exercise patience. After placing some tape to protect against damaging the fine surface detail I grinded and sawed away the pour stub on the nose. I carefully begin to saw just above the cut line. I do this because I cannot saw straight if my life depended on. This way I will control complete removal by sanding. I start my cut at the 12 o'clock position then move to 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock. I do a few cuts each position around the clock then repeat. It's tedious but it works for me. With saw cuts as deep as I can manage I begin the slow and careful process of removing the pour stub. Using my cutters I carefully remove as much as the block as I am comfortable with. Then the sanding begins. Using a very stiff 120 grit sanding stick (do not used the soft Flexi or Squadron sanding sticks or you might risk uneven sanding) I begin to work away the remains of the pour stub. Holding the nose I carefully rotate and sand a few strokes at a time. BE PATIENT. As I get closer to completion I switched to finer grits 240, 320 sand a few strokes check, repeat then... finish with a 400 grit. Remember I used very stiff sanding sticks. A wet paper towel is laid on my work area to collect the dust. Respirator a must! Spinner and Spinner Backplate Sanding complete I drill the Spinner plate pilot hole with a 1.1mm drill. Then enlarge with a 7/64 inch (approx 2.77mm for those across the pond) drill bit. The spinner backplate is easy to clean. Take care with the back and alignment pin. Sand carefully with a stiff sanding stick, small slow strokes and checking after each stroke will assure even sanding control. Cleaning the spinner is and equally easy task. Take your time and sand carefully. Match the spinner with the spinner backplate and try some test fitting. Some minor surface putty work needed. The radiator opening is due for its cleaning. The hard work is now done. Prop Jig A clever prop jig is included. When you print the instructions be sure your printer is set at 100%. I tried aligning with my PropMaster tool and the proper prop angle could not be achieved. So use supplied jig. Prop aligned on the spinner backplate. Be sure you print the instructions at 100%. Spinner fitted. You will have to paint backplate and inside spinner. Prop blades must be attached before you mount the spinner. Radiator Test Fit The radiator parts will have to be carefully sanded around the edges to fit inside the nose. With my rotary tool using a fine tip grinder bit I carefully smoothed out some snug areas inside the radiator opening for the front radiator piece to fit. Again, sand in small increments and test fit, test fit and test fit. It will fit. Take your time. Nose Comparison Here are some side by side comparison shots of the Special Hobby nose and Barracuda's nose replacement. Prop blades are also corrected. Nose Test Fit The replacement nose fits very well and I see minimum putty and sand work will be required. Remember this is a test/dry fit with tape. Be assured some love will be needed when executing the final glue and attachment. Verdict If you never worked with resin this may be a daunting task. However not impossible. I cannot emphasize the importance care and patience when removing the pour stub from the nose. Otherwise, cleaning of spinner plate, spinner and propellers are very straight forward. The detail and fit are quite nice. Instructions must be downloaded and are clear as crystal. Study them and prepare. If you want a correct nose, spinner and propellers for your already very nice Special Hobby Tempest Mk.V this beautiful offering from Barracuda Studios is a must. Very Highly Recommended Thank you Roy Sutherland!
I got my hands on this a few weeks ago and I immediately binned the A29 and the Mossie, new canopy ordered. That said after a through wash I broke out the sprue cutters and got to work. See James Hatch's outstanding review. This is going to be an out of box build. With exception of markings which will be masked and painted. The decals have some spots and are not usable. Details on that later. Test fit looks good. There will some seam work and scribing needed. Obligatory ejector hole fills needed. A little 500 Mr. Surfacer did the trick. Using my shaping tool I addressed the flare racks and flare gun rack. Tedious work. Common variable when working with photo etch. Using Gator Glue The flare racks are secured. Flare gun rack on and done. Port side complete as far as I can before painting. Starboard side ready for paint.