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  1. 1:24 Cockpit Instrument Decals: Hawker Typhoon Airscale Catalogue # AS24TIFF Available from Airscale for £10.95 What better a time to show you this decal set, with us only yesterday having reviewed the epic new 1:24 Hawker Typhoon from Airfix. I did actually touch upon this release in that article, and today I'm pleased to show you in full what this set offers the modeller, in terms of options and entirely new content. If you've ever bought or seen the Airscale range of cockpit decals (both instrument and placard), then you will no doubt be impressed. Both scratch-builder and novice alike, they offer something that is often lacking in many commercial kit releases. I like to use these products as often as I can, and if you've read any of my magazine articles or forum topics, then that will be plainly clear! So, what can Airscale offer the Über-Typhoon from Airfix? Well, let's see. As with all Airscale's decals sets, this is packaged into a small Zip-lock wallet, with a light card insert inside, which is laser printed and in full colour. The front of the insert shows a photograph of an actual Typhoon cockpit, with the given options listed below. This set allows the modeller to mount his/her decals to the rear of the instrument panel, so they show through the clear plastic film which is included, or you can apply individual instruments over the top of the dial locations, once the clear plastic part is attached to the instrument panel. The description of this product actually does it a disservice, because not only do you get the instrument decals, but you also get a full suite of cockpit placards too! Unfolding the insert reveals a series of photos of the interior of the Airfix Typhoon cockpit. First of all, there are two images of the instrument panel. One of these pertains to the instruments only, and the other to various placards which fit onto this piece. All decals are clearly numbered, and there are a LOT of decals to apply. The instrument panel alone contains THIRTY-ONE decals! Yes, patience will be needed, but as this is 1:24, your endeavours won't go unnoticed. Photographs are also included for the port and starboard sidewalls, incorporating the instrument consoles, and to cap that, two images are shown of the separately moulded cockpit coaming. Again, this is home to a handful of decals, all numbered. A decal guide is also provided, and this actually lists what each of the decals is in reality, using that same numbering system. Whilst this isn't particularly important to attaching your decals, it is quite interesting, and there is most definitely something to be learnt from studying it a while. The decal sheet is quite small, but most definitely perfectly formed. Of course, the largest decals on here are for the option to lay the instruments behind the panel. This is broken down into the panels 3 constituent parts. I would opt to use the individual decals though. These would be placed on top of a painted and glossed clear part, to aid adhesion. Even if you use the first option, there will still be a small number of instruments that you will attach to the regular plastic panel part. The rear of the sheet descries both decal options, and you will need to draw around the shape of the IP and cut it from the clear film that is included. My only reservation with this idea is that the instruments themselves will be recessed too much within the bezel. Still, the option is there, should you want to use it. Decal printing is by Fantasy Printshop, and everything is very sharp, and no fuzziness that would detract from a 1:24 instrument panel. The placards aren't legible, but they don't need to be. They are still very small, even in 1:24 scale. Printing is also nice and thin, with minimal carrier film, and registration is perfect. There are other colours in play on some instruments, such as green, yellow and red, and they look very authentic. The instructions suggest a setting solution to help with adhesion too, and a drop of Crystal Clear be applied to the dials, so simulate the glass lens. Conclusion Another clear winner from Airscale, and one which you should definitely contemplate if you are thinking of building the big Tiffie. As will all Airscale products, these are meticulously researched, and the real proof of the pudding is in what they add to the overall appearance of the cockpit. From experience, I know that I really couldn't model with these products. For me, they are the cherry on the cake. Very highly recommended My sincere thanks to Airscale for the review sample seen here. To purchase directly, click THIS link. James H
  2. My big project for the last several months, Airfix's 1/24 Typhoon. Completed in markings of Flight Sargeant James Stellin, 609 Squadron RAF. I was looking for a New Zealand theme for my build and the Stellin story stood out among others. He wasn't an ace, didn't appear to be a pilot of any particular note, but his sacrifice was significant to the people of Saint-Maclou-la-Brière, a small village in the Seine-Maritime region of Normandy. Here is the complete Stellin story: As his damaged Hawker Typhoon fighter-bomber rapidly lost height, Pilot Officer James Stellin struggled to avoid crashing into Saint-Maclou-la-Brière, a village of 370 people between Le Havre and Dieppe in northern France. He succeeded, but at the cost of his own life. The villagers gave him a hero’s funeral and have honoured his memory ever since. James Kingston (‘Joe’) Stellin was one of several thousand New Zealanders who flew with the Royal Air Force over Europe in support of the D-Day landings in 1944. Born in Wellington on 2 July 1922, he was the son of James and Beatrice Stellin of Lyall Bay. He attended Scots College before enlisting in the Royal New Zealand Air Force in 1942 and beginning pilot training. On 3 June 1944, three days before D-Day, he and two other Kiwi pilots were posted to 609 Squadron, RAF, at Thorney Island airfield, Hampshire. Over the following month, 609’s pilots flew numerous missions over Normandy, targeting German radar stations, tanks and other vehicles. In early July the squadron moved its base to France, arriving at Plumetot, north of Caen, under shellfire and in mud and rain. For the next six weeks Stellin flew almost daily missions against German tank concentrations, strongpoints and motor transport in the Falaise area. On 18 August, 609 Squadron’s Typhoons destroyed at least seven German tanks and 12 vehicles. Stellin flew again that evening, attacking vehicles on the Vimoutiers–Orbec road and setting five alight. On the 19th, 609 Squadron again targeted German transport trying to escape the Falaise pocket. At 8.30 a.m. Stellin took off from Martragny airfield, flying Typhoon JP975. After destroying several tanks and trucks, Stellin’s aircraft was heading home when he asked permission to descend to attack a vehicle. He did not return to his formation and asked for a homing to find his way back to base. He was given a course but later reported that he was short of fuel. It is thought that his plane was hit by flak near Bernay. A teacher at Saint-Maclou-la-Brière, Monsieur Jacobs, described the scene: Stellin bailed out at the last moment, but his parachute failed to open and he was killed. He was 22 years old. His funeral in Saint-Maclou-la-Brière was attended by 1200 people from the surrounding area. His grave in the local cemetery was later designated a Commonwealth War Grave; ever since it has been decorated regularly with flowers. In 1946 M. Jacobs, who had been active in the local Resistance, wrote a moving letter to Stellin’s parents. The following year the Kiwi pilot was posthumously awarded the Croix de Guerre avec Palme. The people of Saint-Maclou-la-Brière later engraved Stellin’s name onto the war memorial for the dead of their own village. In 1964 they erected a black marble memorial stone to Stellin outside the gates of their church. In 2001 the area in front of the St Maclou church was named ‘Place Stellin’. Stellin has also been commemorated in New Zealand. A memorial board was erected in the Kilbirnie RSA and when that building closed it was moved to his old school, Scots College. The College library is named in Stellin’s honour and the school holds other memorabilia. When James’s father, a prominent Wellington businessman and developer (he was responsible for the subdivisions of Avalon, Kingston and Strathmore Park), died in 1964, he bequeathed funds to build the memorial in Saint-Maclou-la-Brière. He also gifted land on the eastern side of Tinakori Hill to the Wellington City Council to create the James Stellin Memorial Park. In August 2007, Wellington Mayor Kerry Prendergast and French Ambassador Michel Legras unveiled a long-promised plaque in the Memorial Park. Its not known what 609 squadron letter Stellin was flying the day he died, all that was recorded was the plane serial number JP975. I chose to Use squadron letter "S". The airfix kit itself was, for the most part, excellent. The amount of "flash" removal was, at times, frustrating, especially on the intricate engine parts. The build is completely OTB except for the resin wheels, seat belts and photoetch flaps. I decided to use the eduard flaps instead of spending hours filling and sanding ejector marks off the kit flaps. Photos are a bit average but such was the lighting. Comments welcome.
  3. Hi all, My car-door Typhoon is now finished. As much as this kit can punish the senses, I really do like it very much. Watch out for it in the next reprint of the 'How to Build...' book from Doolittle Media:
  4. 1/24 Hawker Typhoon Mk.1B 'car door' No 486 (NZ) Sqn. RAF Tangmere 'Operation Spartan' In 2014, Airfix contacted me and asked if I would build them the original bubble-top incarnation of their 1/24 Typhoon. As they had three other modellers also building, I was left with the shark mouth scheme....not that I was complaining. The model took around 7 weeks from start to finish and was one of the most satisfying builds I'd tackled in years. The blue infill on the mouth was also a talking point . There's no doubt that the finished model is impressive and imposing, yet not without its issues, such as seams that need removing, and some complicated plumbing work. Like many other modellers, the Typhoon that really interested us was the earlier car-door version. Thankfully, Airfix recently released this one, and I was asked again to build too. Original kit photos The new release looks as engaging, but isn't without a few niggles. I will be building scheme 'B' which is the earliest machine from the options given. This means removing the fish plates from the tail strengthening joint, meaning the missing detail from under the plates will need to be restored. Despite this being a necessary evil, for some bizarre reason, Airfix will have you slice away the plastic on the deck to the rear of the pilot, and replace it with an insert. The reason? Simply to replace the moulded detail with a less detailed alternative. Having tried this and screwing up a fuselage half, I decided to just remove the raised plastic detail and recreate the lapped panel detail, as per the tail unit fish tail area. Makes sense? Good, I thought so. Before After This Typhoon is quite interesting. Like all schemes in this release, it has a three-bladed propeller, but it also has the early style car door canopy, early narrow chord tailplane, and short cannon fairings. If you think you'll see lots of weapons underneath the wings, then you'll be wrong. This one carries no external ordnance. Yes.....a plain wing, unhindered by things hanging from it! After scraping the frames and other internal parts (for two whole days), the entire internal framework was assembled and then airbrushed with Xtreme Metal Aluminium. After a coat of Klear, a wash was added. Here is the result. I still need to add further staining and detail paintwork, but you get the idea. You'll also note the early pilot seat headrest/bulkhead. More soon........
  5. 1:24 Typhoon guns Eduard Catalogue # 624002 Available from Eduard for €14,95 Bunny Fighter Club price: €12,71 Eduard have released a whole suite of PE and resin sets for Airfix’s 1:24 masterpiece, and we’ll bring you a look at the wheels and photo-etch parts in the very near future. In the meanwhile, this rather nice set has arrived, designed to replace the four 20mm Hispano cannon that packed a punch with this brutal-looking bird. Having built the Airfix 1:24 Typhoon, which I have to say is magnificent in everything from its engineering, to the depth of detail and rendered surface finish, there are only a few things which generally let it down, and one of them is the rather lacklustre set of cannon. Eduard’s new replacement resin parts are supplied in their familiar Brassin blister pack, and the set itself contains replacements for the entire gun, including the barrel and ammunition feeds. In total, there are SIXTEEN parts in this set, cast in a combination of light and medium grey resin. All parts are safely protected within the package by pieces of foam, with the barrels packed in between the layers themselves. Therefore, you won’t see these from the front of the pack, but they are included. This set is designed to simply replace the kit parts, and as a result, there is no surgery required. Probably the worst aspect of the Airfix parts are the ammunition drums that have an awkward seam along them which you’ll struggle to remove. The fit of these, and the ambiguity of their position, along with the spent chutes, makes fitting these quite tedious. With this release, not only do we have excellent gun detail which was lacking in the Airfix parts, but the drum feed is moulded as part of the main gun section. This saves so much time in getting things right, and it goes without saying that the detail on these could simply never be recreated in injection form, as a single part. For the gun bodies, there is a small casting block to the rear underside, extending upwards slightly to protect the rear of the gun. Removal should be very easy. As the guns are ‘handed’, the ammunition feed enters the chamber from opposing sides, depending on installation. As a result, there are two R6 and two R6 parts here. Two blocks contains the spent shell chutes, connected to their casting block via a thin membrane of resin. Again, clean-up will be minimal, swift, and very easy. Unless you find a way of building your model without the external fairings, the barrels within are going to be completely hidden, except for the protruding muzzle. However, Eduard has supplied four far nicer barrels than those in the kit. I found that a lot of the Airfix parts seemed to have seams which indicated that the moulds weren’t aligned, or they’d slipped. This included the thin barrels. Eduard’s replacements are excellent, with good recoil sprint detail, and a slightly flared, open-ended muzzle. The rear end is also keyed to ensure correct orientation into the main body. Lastly, replacement ammunition feeds are included. These are a big improvement over the kit parts, with beautifully defined shells, and also with the tips of the lower shells being seen in between the upper feed. Cap detail is also included. The instructions clearly show where everything needs to fit, and Gunze paint codes are supplied too. Conclusion A very simple and very well-priced update to the one area on the Typhoon which I did fell was a little under par. As always this set is beautifully produced, and is actually easier to install than the kit parts, with the added bonus of detail that wasn’t provided in the kit, and no seam removal hassles. In my book, it’s worth it for the last reason alone! Very highly recommended My sincere thanks to Eduard for this review sample. To purchase directly, click THIS link. James H
  6. Of course I haven't got the Tiffie in my grubby paws yet but I've pre-ordered it. Although the Typhoon looks really at home in full invasion stripes, I have chosen a later subject: Pulverizer II of 440 Sqn RCAF. This Bombphoon was based at B.78 Eindhoven in late 1944. An airbase which is still in use by the Royal Netherlands Air Force nowadays. It is also used as a civilian airfield, much used for European flights carried out with aircraft in the Boeing 737 size class. So, to be continued...
  7. Hi gang, Sorry I've been pretty quiet recently, but Airfix asked me to build one of the Typhoon Über kits for display on their stand at Scale Model World, Telford. This kit is magnificent, but no 2 week project. I rushed this one to get it built in time, and it still took 7 weeks, which is is only a couple of weeks short of what it would take me to do two magazine projects. Airfix have commissioned four modellers to build the four schemes available in the kit. Everything here is OOB (through necessity) except for Airscale cockpit decals and masks which were used for the tail chequer band. I found the kit decal colours to be muddy and wrong. I still need to add fuses to the rockets and also more weathering to the wheels, but it's almost there. I'm not going to beat myself up over a rush build, and I know I could have improved many areas. Hope you like it.
  8. Hi guys, Does any of you have got a replacement Tiffie-canopy from Airfix? I've read mixed experiences -not about Airfix, their service i outstanding and fast- but about the "droop" in the canopies. I've read somewhere that the keep the clear parts a short while longer in the moulds before ejecting them so the parts can cool down somewhat more and don't display the droop. On other forums I read that the droop is still present, only the cracking has been sorted? Anyone know what it'sreally like? I knowthere are resin alternatives around, but prefer injection moulded transparencies if at all possible as resin still isn't as crystal clear... Cheers, Erik.
  9. 1:24 Hawker Typhoon Mk.1B Airfix Catalogue # A19002 Available from Airfix for £99.99 If anything could be classed as a 'main event' at a model show, then the test shot sprues for the 1:24 Airfix Hawker Typhoon which were on show atScale Model World 2013, Telford, in November last year, certainly is the epitome of that statement. You would have had serious difficulty in getting anywhere near the plastic, such was the continual throng of modellers crowding out the Airfix stall. Some perseverance and the occasional rigid elbow eventually got our website team in to get the all-important photos. This looked to be a model like no other. Yes, Airfix are the original stalwarts of 1:24 model aircraft, with their last release, the Mosquito, being released in late 2009. However, something was very different with this new kit. In fact, something that I'm pretty sure hasn't been seen on an injection-moulded kit before. That difference was the stressed metal surface that this model sported. Yes, something that we see on practically all metal skinned aircraft, now reproduced with amazing authenticity on a plastic model kit. The Typhoon was a large and heavy fighter plane, and in 1:24, it really is no shrinking violet. It also has a very large box in order to accommodate the rakes of plastic within. I quite like the design of Airfix's packaging. It's got great artwork that harkens back to the time when this was a big selling point for us when we were young. It's extremely bold and almost shouts 'buy me' at you as soon as you see it, and the glossy gorgeousness also carries the four varied schemes on one edge. The back of the box not only carries those 4 scheme profiles again, but also superbly realistic digital renders, in heavy weathering. You also get a potted history of the Typhoon and a map of operational Typhoon bases in June/July 1944. There are also some impressive CAD renders of the model too. Lifting that substantial lid does immediately blow away any idea about this being a sturdy looking box. It simply isn't. In fact, it's quite flimsy and twists easily. There are no separators in there either, as you get in some Trumpeter releases, so the sprues are free to bang around a little. Several parts had come adrift from my sprues, but were thankfully undamaged. Sprues aren't all individually packaged, with many sharing their tough polythene bags. These are sealed up using heat. I'm not a fan of sprues being bagged in multiples, but the packers have had the good sense in ensuring that those external surfaces are facing away from each other. I don't know if that's by accident or design, but it pleases me. Of course, the clear sprues are separate. Inside their bags, these are wrapped in foam, and within that, what looks like kitchen/toilet tissue paper. As well as the two clear sprues, there are SIXTEEN others, all moulded in light grey styrene, and these are generally packed in bags containing two each. There was never any doubt that this was going to be a complex kit to look at, so we'll do our sprue-by-sprue and see what this kit offers the builder, who no doubt will want to see all those details that they either saw at Telford SMW2013, and those little touches which do so promise to set this kit above all others in its class. Many sprues in this release are quite narrow, but also long. That's a little quirky, and I suppose makes them a little easier to package into this behemoth of a box. It makes the photos a little awkward, so we'll have to compensate with many close-up shots. SPRUE A Airfix has apparently designed this model so that it more or less constructs in the same manner as did the real aircraft. I'm not going to approve or disprove that statement, but the construction sequences are quite unusual and may seem to back that up. We'll look at the sequence at the end of the sprues evaluation. That construction does start with the cockpit and wing spar joint assembly, and this sprue contains more than a few of those key, initial components. The most obvious parts here are the tubular sidewalls for the cockpit. These sure give a sense of scale to proceedings. Airfix have properly captured the impression of the various tubes being riveted, plated and bolted together. Definition of that detail is generally excellent, but like many parts on this sprue, there is a little flash here and there, and more annoyingly, there are a few seam lines that will need paring before you start. Another thing I notice on this model generally are the number of very visible ejector pin marks. The side frames do suffer from these, but they have been placed on the exterior side of them, so won't be seen when the model is assembled. I am reliably informed that the majority of these marks are designed not be seen when the model is built, despite the beautiful levels of detail existing around these anomalies. Another example of this are the marks on the forward bulkhead/firewall. There are no marks to be seen on the engine bay side of this superbly detailed part (resplendent in wiring, connector points, raised rivets etc), but the reverse does have pin marks. The upper two will be hidden by the two-part fuel tank, and the lower will be in the shadows of the foot well. There are two short, sub wing spars on this sprue, and pin marks exist on one face of them. These are mated to the larger main spar, so I can say that Airfix do seem to have thought this out with the modeller in mind. That oil tank assembly is a little odd, with it being literally sliced in half. Having said that, the seam will be easy to remove due to no other detail causing you a headache here. Other parts on this sprue include the oval bulkhead to the rear of the cockpit (with integral tubular braces and excellent connection point detail). Other parts on this sprue are the footboards, rudder pedal bar, and various other cockpit parts; both major and minor. This kit also supplies a pilot, and the forward and back parts of his torso/legs are moulded here. The arms and head are separate. Airfix have designed their pilot so he properly interacts with the control column etc, and his feet do indeed reach the pedals! Seatbelts are spread between this sprue and sprue L, and look very reasonable. I would still opt for an HGW set though. SPRUE B I think the reason for long, narrow sprues is clearly defined here when we see the two key wing spars for the Typhoon. They are long! In fact, each measures approximately 330mm (over 13 inches), and these aren't even the full span of this model kit. There are clear connection points on here that tie in with the addition of the cockpit module, and even though I keep harkening to the detail levels, I really need to. Those spars are a combination of strut, plate, tube and rivet, and they look incredibly realistic. Under a coat of Alclad, and with an oil wash, they will no doubt look indiscernible from the real thing. If you like to see a well-moulded and highly detailed instrument panel, then the one Airfix provide will not disappoint you. Despite being almost a 'triptych', this areas is moulded as a single piece, with nicely raised bevel detail, and switches/selectors etc. Those instrument faces are moulded as holes, so the glazed section can fit to this from the rear. There has been some criticism of the depth of those clear lenses, so if you wish to use the Airfix approach, you could actually grind them down a fraction and re-polish them. This is where I really do begin to question why they included a clear part at all. Individual decals are supplied for this kit, and unlike the Tamiya approach where they are printed face side down, these are standard in approach, meaning they sit ON TOP of the glass, and not below it. Unless I'm missing something, that part didn't need to be clear. I'd apply the decals to the instrument faces, once that rear plate has been installed. A drop of Micro Crystal Clear will then replicate the lens. Perhaps at this juncture, it's a good time to mention the excellent Airscale set of instrument decals that are available, including Typhoon-specific cockpit placards. This set is designed specifically for this release. This sprue is another myriad of internal cockpit parts, including sidewall panels and integral cabling, control consoles, quadrants, seat parts and numerous other tubular framing parts. Again, a little flash will need to be removed here and there, and some seam lines paring down too. SPRUE C Onto a nice, large sprue now. Apart from a set of neatly moulded, weighted wheels with a little simplified hub detail, this sprue more or less contains the parts for the massively powerful 24-cylinder Napier Sabre engine. If you so choose, you can build this with an optional miniature electric motor tucked away within (bought separately), and there are various options available to the modeller when it comes to displaying the engine itself. These are highlighted in the first pages of the manual. For me, I feel it sacrilege to not show the engine when complete. The kit allows you to model the engine with the electric motor completely hidden within, and not affecting the finished result, or you can opt to just cowl the area over and not show the engine at all. As you'll imagine, the engine itself isn't a quick build in itself, and this highly detailed area of construction contains around 60 to 70 parts, but my very quick estimation. The Napier was quite unusual in appearance, and those ignition distribution conduits and their associated leads are neatly moulded too. A little flash again, and some seams will most definitely need to be removed too. There is some very neat slide-moulding trickery on the separate exhaust stubs too, with each one having a neatly hollow end, as well as weld seams. As well as the engine and ancillary parts, you will find some very fragile-looking plumbing here too. . Needless to say, flash is present, and those infernal seams, but the latter aren't really too bad here. Just take your time when it comes to shaving them away. Dual packing of sprues didn't pay off here as one connector hose has broken away from the sprue. SPRUE D A real mish-mash of parts here. Undercarriage doors are provided as an external plate, with a separate interior section that has tabs that locate into the slots on the undercarriage legs. A very small sink mark can be seen on the exterior of one door, and that will need to be filled and sanded back. Of course, one of the most characteristic parts of the Typhoon design was the enormous chin intake. This is broken down into several parts, as is the actual exterior cowl (on another sprue). There are also a couple of optional intake parts for the forward section of the intake. One is a simple framework that sits in front of the filter, and the other is a plate grille. There are actually two types of the latter on the sprue, but I can't see any use mentioned of the plainer part. The rest of the sprue is taken up with yet more sections of plumbing, and also parts for the main undercarriage/tail wheel, including various actuators and tanks that reside in the main gear bays. Looking at the sprues and the instructions, I really would be hard-pressed to see what else you'd need to add, maybe apart from the odd section of lead wire. Remarkable. SPRUE E Only one part here, but it is, er, pretty important! For the first time, we see something containing that rather impressive stressed metal skin; the lower bottom wing panel. Depending on how you intend to display your model will then depend on which holes you need to open up from within this part. Stage 90 (yes, 90!!!) graphically shows which holes are intended for the various tanks and ordnance. If you fit the electric motor, then you will need to open up another hole. This is also true if you decide to mount on a stand. I can't understand why Airfix didn't include the stand as standard. It used to be in the other 1:24 releases. For those of you that saw the test sprues at SMW2013, you were no doubt awestruck by that stressed metal rendition. Some of you will have seen photos on other forums etc., and I imagine you felt that same way. To have the parts here in hand, and experience it again has certainly not dulled those first impressions. This is a seriously nice piece of design work, impressively carried off at the tooling and moulding stage. The surface is resplendent in various bumps and bulges, subtly accommodated between various riveted lines. The whole effect is extremely authentic, and hopefully will set a bench mark, not just for Airfix, but also their competitors. Other surface detail is no less nice. The rivets, which divots, are very small and just right to my eye. Panel lines are superbly neat and narrow, and not at all too deep, and numerous screwed and riveted plates are perfectly executed. Cartridge ejection chutes are also moulded 'open', and the Hispano cannon fairings are separate entities. There is a little flash present again, around the internal opening of the gear bays, and also in the landing flap areas. Nothing at all to worry about, and I imagine you could remove it in less than a minute. SPRUE F This sprue mostly concerns itself with the wing interior detail, including the gun bay areas. Airfix has designed this model so that the lower wing panel (Sprue E) is attached to the completed cockpit and engine section. On top of this, you now add the various internal wing spars and ribs, forming the wheel bays and gun bays. Detail across these is astounding, with riveted plates, wiring, and even the leather grommet in the spar, through which the Hispano pass. You have a real sense that the designer was extremely passionate about his work here, because if a lot of this was missing, you'd still be impressed with the result. Other detail on the spars includes strut sections with domed rivets, and even a pouch/wallet item in the wheel bay area. When the spars and ribs are added, a ground plate is then added to the gun bays, consisting of structural elements and mounts for the cannon. Those cannon are very impressive in their sheer size, but unusually, the muzzles aren't hollow moulded! I can't understand why at all, and certainly not in a release of this importance. You can of course drill them out yourself, or wait until Master Model release a set of replacement barrels with recoil springs. The latter are moulded in situ here and look as good as you can expect to get them. After all, they will mostly be enclosed with the fairings anyway. Those cannon fairings are moulded as halves. That in itself doesn't sound like an issue, but Airfix have moulded the shape within so that it fits the recoil spring. That would normally means that you would have to attach them to the model and then remove the seams. On a big model, it can be awkward. I suggest opening the interior up a little and building them off the model. You can then slide them into position when the seams are history. Other parts on this sprue include the ammunition boxes and separate belt feeds and rear spars which form the face onto which you will add the flaps etc. SPRUE G There are THREE spinner options available here, including those for both three and four blade propellers. Two back-plates are separately moulded to cater to these, with internal face detail. You'll be hard-pressed to see it when assembled though! Hubs for both types of prop are supplied as front and back parts too, but this is nothing unusual for a large-scale model. A third of this sprue is taken over with various fuel tanks, including the wing leading edge tanks. All tanks are two part affairs, and seams will be easy to remove. Of course, filler cap detail is there the rib-capping strip that fits over the main wing tank. The real drying shame is that you won't see any of this detail except through the odd chink in detail within the gun and wheel bays. Still, you will know it's there, and that's what counts in my book. The remainder of sprue parts are taken over with the bomb bodies, external fuel tanks and the rocket mounting rails. Bombs and tanks are moulded as halves, and you will need to take care when removing the seams on the tanks, due to raised detail that gets in the way of a clean joint. SPRUE H This model comes with two types of tail-plane. Firstly, the standard chord tail-plane is of course present, but also the later, wider chord type that is commonly referred to as the 'Tempest tail-plane'. Normally, this sort of inclusion would have been very difficult to implement in kit form due to the difference required for the fuselage slot. The difference here is that Airfix has designed the vertical fin and lower section to be separate parts. On this sprue, you will find the parts of the fin that will allow you to attach the original, short-chord tail-plane. I am reliably informed that the fin section fits effortlessly to the fuselage. That lower wing section, as I mentioned, wasn't full span. Here we have the lower, outboard sections of the wings, which appear to attach along a panel line. These are tabbed to aid alignment, and of course, that delicious stressed skin is very evident. A wing spar which extends past the centre section of the wing also gives the tip addition some rigidity. As the upper wing is pretty skeletal, Airfix have chosen to adopt a better system of representing the roof of the main gear bays instead of simply moulding it to the inside of the upper wing panels. This gives a far better representation for the modeller, allowing perhaps a little extra wire etc. to be added before the wing is closed up. There are wiring boxes and wiring itself on these parts, accompanying the wing structure detail. As well as the multipart gun bay covers which also exhibit that stressed skin relief, a second set of main gear bay doors are provided, as single parts, allowing the modeller to pose his model 'wheels up' with no problem.
  10. Just thought everyone would enjoy the newest review of our Tiffie EagleCals, this one from The Modelling News: http://www.themodellingnews.com/2014/07/a-new-look-for-your-big-typhoon.html Team Eagle
  11. Hi All; We are excited to announce a new scale for EagleCals - two new sheets featuring the Hawker Typhoon in 1/24th scale: Here is the link to our page: http://www.eagle-editions.com/eaglecals/24.html And here are the profiles:
  12. The built-up examples of Airfix' forthcoming 1/24 Typhoon and the sprues:
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