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  1. 1 Man Army Paint Masks 1:32 Spitfire Mk.I/II RAF Cat. N. 32DET013 Price tag: €23,38 plus shipping Available at Ak-interactive store, here I has surfing in the net, and I came across this name: 1 Man Army and I went to their website – www.1manarmy.be. As you can see, all their catalog are in 1:32 and they are expending their references with more and more masks. I became quite curious because I really don’t like the looks of decals in 1:32 scale and 1ManArmy mask are mainly stencils, for what I could see I haven`t heard anything from this brand before, so I couldn`t resist in get one of their mask. I chose the Spitfire because it can be use for the Revell Mk II and for the future Kotare Models Mk. I. Let`s see what you can get with this set mask. You get two mask sheets, similar wit Tamiya tape, but its not really the same as the color is darker and the tape itself is thinner. I unglue part of it from the paper and its very malleable with good glue.. I detached several times and the glue was still in very good shape. These two sheets give the modeler a full set of British roundels (for wings undersurface, wing upper surface and fuselage both sides) and all the stencils, all the little ones. So goodbye silvering and tiny little decals.!! Of course that all the places to put the stencilas are very well indicated for all sides of the aircraft. Also you get the markings set for two Spitfire Mk.II: - “RN N” from Squadron n.º 72 1941; - Douglas Bader Tangmere 1941; To handle the best way possible, a user manual is given and its very comprehensive. It’s a really nice touch from 1ManArmy. CONCLUSION: I love this mask set. I really do because in 1:32, the decals tend to be very big (roundels) and all the stencils are present with small decals, that could ruin your work with the silvering or not settle well into the part. So with this mask set, beside a full set of stencils mask, two markings sets, one especially for Douglas Bader Spitfire. Its cheap? well no, but you can use it several times and I know that I will use it at least two times so putting that way, its not expensive. Very highly recommended Fran Our thanks to my bank account for this product. You can get this set and all 1ManArmy catalogue at Ak-Interactive store
  2. Airbrush Painting Clips Holder HobbyZone Catalogue # HZ-AC1 Available from HobbyZonefor £13.54 (at current rates) Modellers tend to be quite resourceful and innovative folks, from scratch-building parts, to fabricating things to make their hobby a little easier. One such fabrication, for me, is a polystyrene foam block with cocktail sticks to hold parts whilst I airbrush them. I also stick parts to steel rules that have been covered in masking tape, plus I’m always using bits of Blue-Tack to mount parts to whilst I paint. It just seems to be the way I’ve always worked. Doubtless, you do the same, or have your own bespoke solution. HobbyZone have quite a nice solution to this that you may just be interested in. I’ve actually been sitting on this review for a couple of months now, pending the release of this new product from HobbyZone. Today, they asked me to publish it for you. The concept is very simple. It’s essentially a magnetic box with a series of holes in the lid. Into these will fit stiff wires that are furnished with a shrouded crocodile clip on one end. You pop your model part into the jaws and then paint. Whilst drying, you can stand the wire upright in the lid. After your work, all the wires sit neatly in the box, out of the way. This product, like all those from HobbyZone, are machine cut from MDF, and require assembly. This one is packed into a sturdy corrugated box with a simple product label. Upon opening the box, you’ll note that all parts are protected with a covering of bubble-wrap. Upon removing that, you’ll note that the box itself is built up from five layers of MDF. These form the base with a white plastic outside coating, and two frame parts, one of which glues to the base, and another recessed frame which glues to the top of this. The two-part lid then sits in this and is held via magnets. To complete the package, a series of nine neodymium (rare earth) magnets are included, as are nine croc-clip wires and a set of instructions. The instructions are nice and simple to follow and I had no issue with understanding them at all, but for the ease of explaining this product to you, I’ve built this up as a guide for you. Here we go! 1.I start with the lid. Using TiteBond adhesive, I run a line of this around the non-recessed face of this part, and add some spots between the holes, being careful not to put too much glue there, or get too close to the holes. 2.The white, plastic-coated lid is now fitted to the previous part and held with clamps until fully cured. 3.The base is now clued to the lower frame section (the one without the holes) and clamped until fully set. 4.Now we can glue the upper frame in situ, being careful of alignment. Again, clamps hold this until filly set. Note the frames are slightly scalloped on each of the long edges. This is to give your fingers something to hold whilst you remove the lid. 5.Now, this part is VERYimportant. We need to ensure that the magnets all fit into the holes, so the same pole is facing upwards on each one. This is dead easy. Keeping the stack of magnets upright, and keeping the same orientation, remove two of them and push into the one of the corner holes. Do the same with the others, again, without changing the orientation of your stack of magnets. These push in quite easy, but you know they won’t come out afterwards! Now fit the lid to the box so that the magnets align with the holes in the lid. Push firmly down, and if necessary, gently tap the lid into place with a small hammer, being careful to protect the surface of the product. That’s it! The lid will now come off with magnets and will reattach in the same way. Job complete! 6.After your work, store the wires/clips in the box and replace the lid. There’s plenty of room in there for more, in case you want to make your own clip holders. Conclusion A superbly simple idea, carried off very nicely. As with all of HobbyZone’s products, this is designed to keep your workbench in tidy order, and of course, this has the functionality added to it. I’m quite a fan of HobbyZone, with my workshop being fitted out with all of their various storage modules, so I’m more than happy to stay true to the brand and its style/quality, with this addition. My sincere thanks to HobbyZonefor the review sample seen here. To purchase directly, click the link at the top of the article.
  3. Morning all, After noticing a gradual deterioration in airbrush performance (even after total disassembly/cleaning) I decided to give an ultrasonic cleaner a whirl. A couple of very good videos on Youtube helped convince me that this was the best way to truly "deep-clean" an airbrush. I ordered the "Magnasonic" cleaner from Amazon (quite a deal at $39.99) and it arrived yesterday. I mixed a 50/50 solution of Windex and warm water, disassembled my Iwata HP-CS, and threw it all in for an 8 minute high-frequency bath. Even though the airbrush was "clean" (I thought), I was astonished at the result. A couple of minutes in, numerous "mounds" of fine, sedimentary debris began gathering on the floor of the tank. A good deal of this appeared to have come from the nozzle (which, again, I thought was squeaky clean to begin with). After rinsing the airbrush parts in water, I lubed up the needle and reassembled the airbrush. The whole "feel" of the trigger is noticably different; it's no longer "mushy" and "sticky" but instead smooth. I haven't actually tried running paint through it yet but I am pretty certain there will be a noticeable improvement. I then threw my old single-action Paasche in the tank. I'm not sure where it was all hiding, but a big clump of gunk and sediment came out of it's nozzle as well. The model that I purchased is shown. A cheaper version (which doesn't have time settings) is also available, and likely works just as well. If you don't have one of these babies, GET ONE!!!
  4. EVOLUTION AL plus 0.2 Harder & Steenbeck Catalogue # 126255 Available from Air-Craft.net for £154.99 It's been a while since we took a look at an airbrush here on LSM, so when Air-Craft.net told us they were sending a new version of Harder & Steenbeck's excellent Evolution airbrush, I really could wait to see this one. Unlike the regular airbrushes which are chrome plated metal (or nickel plated), this one is constructed mostly from Aluminium, with an anodised surface. Of course, that's going to feel differently in the hand, but just how different? I received this airbrush a few weeks ago but wanted to actually chuck some paint through it in anger of course. How else can I actually evaluate such a tool and report on how I found it? Exactly. I knew I had an opportunity coming up with a 1:32 Bf 110E from Dragon, so I would be able to try a little cellulose and acrylic paint. My paint of choice is Gunze/Mr Hobby and Tamiya, so this is what I'll be atomising today. Due to the needle size, I wouldn't expect an airbrush this size to really be used for applying primer to large surfaces, so I will spare it that task. The Evolution AL plus 0.2 is packaged into a very sturdy, lockable plastic case with the interior shaped to hold the airbrush. Externally, a cardboard sleeve encases the box, and within the sleeve is a stock Harder & Steenbeck instruction manual for the Evolution range of airbrushes. As the product title suggests, this airbrush has a 0.2mm needle, which is the finer end of what modellers would readily buy, being designed for finer detail work. The colour cup on this model is also very small, having a capacity of 2ml only. Don't let this put you off. This is pretty much stock for the smaller needle size brushes. The shape of the removable colour cup means that it's also very easy to clean out, and of course, removing it makes things real easy during a main strip down and clean at the end of a session. I've heard one remark from a well-known modeller about how the airbrush actually feels in the hand, with its reduced weight. The spiel for this type does say that this model is 50% lighter than similar non-aluminium airbrushes. Well, that reviewer found it too light due to the aluminium construction, but I would tend to disagree with him. I find the airbrush feels very comfortable and as natural in the hand as my regular Iwata weapons of choice. Yes, it is much lighter, but it still feels substantial and balanced. That fear, for me, is allayed. This is a very attractive airbrush. The aluminium parts are beautifully and evenly anodised in black. Anodising isn't a coating, but instead, it's a process whereby the natural oxide layer of the aluminium is dyed, through an electrolytic treatment. The anodised parts benefit from corrosion resistance, and offers some general protection to the metal itself. I still advise that you don't treat the airbrush roughly (and why would you with such an investment?), as you wouldn't want to scuff the very attractive appearance which it has. The name 'EVOLUTION AL plus' is emblazoned on the side of the airbrush too. Here are a few general details regarding this airbrush. Black anodised aluminium body and tail 0.2mm needle/nozzle (optional 0.15mm and 0.4mm needle/nozzle sets available) 2ml colour cup (other sizes up to a massive 50ml are available) Stainless steel needle Self-centering Nickel Silver nozzle Quick connection fitting as standard (removeable) Solvent resistant PTFE triple needle seal. If you are familiar with Harder and Steenbeck's CRPlus range of airbrushes, then the AL plus will be very familiar for you in appearance and parts breakdown. Even for me, who uses Iwata normally, there is nothing about this airbrush which strikes you as being too different, apart from the fact that, of course, these airbrushes require no tools to strip them down. Always a bonus! Strip-down is remarkably simple and very quick to perform, taking only a few moments, and making it a real bonus if you need to do a little quick maintenance whilst part way through a paint job. The 'self-centering nozzle' is essentially a tube with a nozzle end and a PTFE seal at the other. This inserts, like a barrel, into the sleeve of the air head. The air head seals to the airbrush body via a small O-ring. As this is a fine detail brush, the needle cap (crown cap) is mostly designed to just protect the needle with a couple of 'v' protrusions, instead of the whole or crenelated air caps we see on airbrushes with less-fine needles. The air cap and air head are chrome plated, and you can remove the needle cap by simply twisting it away from the air head. This is a little fiddly, but it does come off. There is nothing remarkably different in the body of the airbrush as compared to other types, and you will be wholly familiar with how to disassemble and reassemble this model. Removing the tail (end piece, in the manual), you can of course slacken the needle securing nut and then retract the needle a little before you attempt to remove the nozzle for cleaning. The locking nut is actually bevelled inwards from the rear, lessening any risk of damaging the needle when re-inserting it after cleaning. Removing the colour cup via its screw fitting, reveals a PTFE ring which is inserted into the body of the airbrush. As this is just a seal, and providing that you ensure the colour cup is firmly screwed in, then you should have no problems with any solvents attacking this. In fact, the statistics for this model do say that the PTFE seals within the AL plus are indeed solvent resistant. I tend to use Premi-Air Liquid Reamer, which is a pretty ferocious, toluene-based cleaner, and in the limited use I've so far given this brush, I've seen no deterioration or swelling of these. The rubber O-ring which seals the air head to the body is standard rubber, but the design of the airbrush should mean that this never actually sees any solvent. My tests have shown this area to be both clean and dry when I stripped it down to clean things up. How does it perform though? To be honest, it performs beautifully, and no differently to the already high expectations I'd set for it. It's more than a match for my 0.3mm Iwata airbrush, which I use with the crown cap removed, when I am doing fine detailing. As this airbrush is specifically designed for that fine work, I found that I wasn't straining my trigger finger in trying to hold back a flood of paint that could come as a result of pushing my Iwata HP-C Plus to the limit with fine detail work. Alclad Alclad is by nature, a very thin product, and is sprayed without thinner. After airbrushing a test piece of plastic in gloss black, I used an Alclad lacquer to cover this, opening up the throttle a little. Spraying pressure was about 12PSI, and the airbrush was moved around the surface from about an inch away, at a speed which ensured the freshly laid colour was slightly wet as I progressed. Flawless. Gunze Aqueous/Cellulose/Metallics I like to thin both of these types of paint by at least 50%, using Mr Levelling Thinner; even the Aqueous one. I find it helps paint flow, and certainly stops me having to think twice when I move between the two types of paint. Again, I am spraying these at around 12PSI. I rarely increase pressure unless absolutely necessary, and if applying a heavily thinned mottle paint scheme, I lower the pressure even further in order to stop the paint spidering on me, and welling up. Both types of paint handled beautifully with this airbrush, with no clogging or spraying issues. It's unlikely you're going to want to spray Mr Metal Color in fine patterns, but I thought I'd try it anyway. Again, this medium is sprayed un-thinned, but this time, I simply could get no paint flow, presumably due to pigment size. I soon overcame this by loosening the needle locking nut, and retracting the needle by a very small fraction. This allowed paint flow, albeit a flow which you really couldn't describe as being fine. I don't recommend Mr Metal Color with this airbrush, unless you're not after a particularly fine spray pattern, which to be honest, isn't what you normally use the stuff for anyway. Tamiya paint For pre-shading, I tend to use Tamiya Matt Black. This is thinned by 50%, again using Mr Levelling Thinner. Pressure again is 12PSI. The pre-shading control on the surfaces of my 1:32 Bf 110E showed a beautiful level of consistent control which I find perfect for this task. Although I don't spray fine lines for this task, I still want them to be fairly even and not too broad. Just keeping the pressure at around 12PSI and opening up the throttle a little on the airbrush, brought just the results that I strive for. A couple of times whilst pre-shading this model, bearing in mind some of the angles and curvatures of the subject, I almost tipped the airbrush over a little too far and deposited the paint onto the floor. Those were lucky escapes. I suggest that you perhaps invest in a lid for the colour cup. It could prevent some arguments between you and your better half. Conclusion This airbrush handles beautifully. Whilst I've only tested the a small number of brands, and not touched those such as Lifecolor, Vallejo, AK etc, those that I did use were handled perfectly. I also didn't use enamels in my test as I simply don't use that type of paint any more. In the hand, I feel this model balances perfectly, and the trigger has the same level of response and control as that of my Iwata airbrushes. The trigger spring isn't too weak, and adjusting paint flow was effortless. Strip-down and cleaning was also a joy, and being tool-less, much easier than having to root for my small Iwata nozzle spanner. For such a high quality airbrush with such a fine needle, the price for this one is perfectly pitched, and if you are a 1:48 modeller, you could probably get away with using this airbrush for most of your work. I know it will get some serious use on my 1:32 projects. Very highly recommended Our sincere thanks to Air-Craft.net for this review sample. To purchase directly, click THIS link. James H
  5. Hi All, Its been a while since I posted but I am currently in the market for a Dual Action gravity feed airbrush. I currently own a badger 200NH single action that frankly stinks at detail work. I came across the Grex Genesis XD for $109 and I was wondering if anyone on the forum has any experience or suggestions. I know airbrushes are very personal things I am really just looking for a general idea if this model would be suitable for the fine detail work I am looking to use it for. Thanks in advance
  6. Colani Airbrush Harder and Steenbeck Item # 124003 Available in the Netherlands for €207. For dealers around the world, please click this link for further information. Introduction When it comes to airbrushes I’m not to type to experiment. I own three airbrushes but always seem to fall back on my venerable trusty Tamiya trigger airbrush. The trigger enables me total control over the amount of paint I let through. I’m left handed, but not consistent. I’ll explain: I draw and write and airbrush with my left hand, but cut with scissors and use a computer mouse with my right hand. As a member of the local gun club I shoot right handed too. This means that my trigger finger is on my right hand. And the best control is on my left hand. The Tamiya trigger airbrush however seems to fit me best. So when I was handed this ergonomic Colani airbrush I was a bit sceptic. In the box: • nozzle 0.4 mm • color cup with lid 15 ml • universal spanner • two hand distance rings • additional integrated air connection for ultra-fine work The design Looking at this airbrush gives you the feel like it was left by a Klingon after the shooting of a Star Trek episode. Purple plastic and a visible free floating needle. This airbrush was designed 50 years ago by Luigi Colani. It really makes the airbrush fit your hand like a glove. The back part can rotate, making the fit even more adaptive. The distinctive single action trigger on top can be taken out and turned around so a lefty like me can use it. (See special tool that removes the trigger screw below.) This was the first thing I did. Still I sensed I lacked a bit of control like I have with a single trigger. Not knowing how to fix this, I visited my local airbrush store: Airbrush Services Almere. As a matter of fact the owner of the store was fixing a Colani airbrush when I walked in. I asked him for some pointers and advice. He told me the most important thing in getting control over the trigger is to add the „hand distance rings” that come with the airbrush. It’s important that your trigger finger is fully stretched when resting on the trigger. This gives you maximum control. In my case this meant adding both rings. The Colani airbrush is fitted with a fast coupling for the air hose. So that was another reason I needed to visit the Airbrush store. I bought one for € 14,50. Quite a practical little item I had not used before. No more unscrewing the air hose from my airbrush in the middle of a paint job causing… a mess. Just pull back the ring on the fast coupling to detach the air hose. So the below shown quick release coupling is not included with the set. What also strikes on this airbrush is the enormous 15 ml paint cup. I will never ever have the need to fill this up completely, so I bought a smaller 5 ml cup (€ 9,90). The large paint cup gives away a little on the characteristic of this airbrush. With it’s 0,4 mm needle it’s not specially suited to spray those really thin fine lines. This brush is great for spraying larger camo areas and middle fine work. But! It can be fitted with a 0,2 mm needle. For that you need to change the nozzle too. Or, if you need to spray larger areas you can get a needle set in sizes: 0,6 mm / 0,8 mm / 1,0 mm and even 1,2 mm. As a matter of fact many accessories can be added or changed on this airbrush. And that’s a great plus. Action I’ve used this airbrush for the main part of my latest build now. A Luftwaffe subject with mottled pattern. The type of pattern that demands a fine airbrush. I managed to get fairly thin lines in the first run. About 2,5 mm across. You can adjust the amount of air that is let through, before it shoots paint with the tool that comes with the airbrush. (See photo below.) I discovered that I could probably use this airbrush for about 90% of my work. Just great. And when I buy the extra 0,2 mm needle set, I might be able to use it for all of my work. It might not be needed, since I was also told you can spray even finer lines with a 0,4 mm needle when removing the crown cap (shown on the right, in the photo below.) Maintenance The cleaning of this airbrush is quite simple too because of the free floating needle that can be immediately removed by unscrewing the tightening screw. My Tamiya airbrush is much more difficult to open up and clean properly. With the special tool the Colani comes with you can easily remove the trigger and virtually reach every nook and cranny of the brush. If you shoot very thinned Gunze paints like me, you can normally clean this brush by shooting some thinner/terpentine or Aceton till it’s clean. Then remove the needle and wipe it. Conclusion This airbrush has deserved it’s merits over the years. It’s in use by a wide range of industries and modelers all over the world. A huge range of accessories and spare/replacement parts are at it’s disposal. The typical german quality of materials and fabrication can be felt straight away. And the results of my first run with it are superb. Everything you should expect from an airbrush of this brand and price range. If you are not a huge fan of the standard double action button/lever airbrushes, this might just be a great option. If you have a good airbrush store in your area, ask if you can test one. If I had done so, I would have bought it Very highly recommended (for the quarter and large scale modeler) With sincere thanks to Harder & Steenbeck for this review sample. See this link for dealers around the world. or you can get yours here: http://www.airbrush-services-almere.nl/shop9/shop9.html Jeroen Peters
  7. Firstly, let me say that doing what I have done will void your airbrush warranty from Testors. However, if you are like me who tends to rip apart everything from fridges to washing machines, dryers etc to repair them when they break down (I am an extremely accomplished washing machine repairman!), read on. You may notice that your 470 starts to spatter, the trigger is stuck solid when you leave the airbrush for a week or the needle doesn't close off fully when it should, then your airbrush is probably gunked up on the inside. 1. To take the airbrush apart, you need a flat bladed screw driver. Just work it gently into the spot indicated to pry the sections apart. Do this carefully or you will scar the plastic badly. 2. It's apart, pull out the entire insides, they are not clipped or glued in. 3. Detach the air value from the unit. It just pulls out. You can also pull out the blue air tube, it is not glued or clipped in, just shoved in. 4. Now to get the trigger away from the front body, pull back on the red part. It is spring loaded so make sure when the trigger comes out of the grove it doesn't go flying accross the room. 5. Remove the plunger from the trigger, it just slips out. (Note that it appears clean here and still in place in the next pic as I took the pictures out of order) 6. Now you get to clean. The arrows indicate where the airbrush gunks up. This build up of paint causes both the airbrush trigger to stick solid when left and to foul the mechanism, not allowing the needle to fully close off when the roller is in the fully closed position. Once you clean out all the crap, put the airbrush back together in the reverse order. However, be careful not to pinch the airhose when you are closing up the airbrush.
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