Anzo Posted July 26, 2013 Author Share Posted July 26, 2013 Thanks, harvey boyer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Scanlon Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 Great work, love the cockpit. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 That's beautiful! Really a piece of art Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis.E Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 I think you have really the nail on the head as far as cockpit detailing is concerning Anzo - I mirror Dave's sentiment, a peice of art and work we can collectively aspire to... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theseeker Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Excellent work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkranias Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 really well done. I echo the artistic talent as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anzo Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 Guys, thanks for your kindly words. Very appreciate. New work in progress. Thanks for watching. I applied the Tamiya putty and super glue to do the seamless of fuselage. Also airbrushed Mr. Surfacer 1200 to make sure having a smooth surface. Put the gun sight into the cockpit. I cut a piece of clear sheet to replace original clear part on the gun sight. Glued the canopy on fuselage. Even though I adjusted and glued the canopy very carefully, I still found some gaps there. Applied Tamiya putty on these gaps and sanded they smooth with fuselage. Additional, there was a steel plate armor overlapping the windscreen. I put a 0.1mm styrene sheet over there and made some rivets on it. Assembled the ailerons, rudder, stabilizers, and elevators. Also did the seamless work for them. Put PE parts into the main landing bay. Dry fitted PE parts with radiator air outlets. The air intake for oil radiator was kind of short. Put two styrene sheets to cover the end. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamme Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Beautiful job! Cheers, Jamme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anzo Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 Thank you, Jamme. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
One-Oh-Four Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Wow, Anzo, that looks really good! Very delicate work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anzo Posted August 8, 2013 Author Share Posted August 8, 2013 Wow, Anzo, that looks really good! Very delicate work! Thanks for your comment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anzo Posted August 10, 2013 Author Share Posted August 10, 2013 Updated. Thanks for watching. Client provided several aftermarket kits to replace original barrels. Even though there were some small details missing on this resin muzzle brake of 20mm cannon, it was still nice looking when I put it on this P-400. I added a 1.55mm brass rod to extend the barrel. Prepared the propeller. Each blade got a concave place, needed to fill with Tamiya putty. When assembled the propeller hub, I found that the gaps were too big under the holes of blade. Filled them and re-scribed these lines. Dry fitted the propeller. There were two .50 machine guns on the nose of P-400, but there was no hole on the machine gun port. Drilled two holes and dry fitted with resin .50 MG muzzles. P-400 had two .30 MG in each side of wing. When I replaced original barrels by metal barrels, I put two pieces of styrene strip and drilled a hole in each styrene piece with measuring appropriate angle and direction for fixing metal barrels. Looked ok. These barrels were straight and kept level with wing. Before I assembled the wing, needed to paint the air intakes of oil radiator and added some weathering. Assembled the wing. Prepared for seamless work. I always love to scratch build the pitot tube. Used 1mm brass rod and sanded the front part flat as a blade with electronic tool. Then I cut a piece of 0.12mm brass sheet and welded the piece on the rod. It was better looking than original pitot tube. Client also provided a SAC metal landing gear set for this P-400. The quality of this set was not very good. The mold lines were visible and not small. I tried to clean these mold lines and surface of landing gears very carefully. The piston parts needed to be sanded from 2000 to 12000 grit sandpaper for having a smooth surface. And were ready to paint the chrome color. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 I am really enjoying this build! Your paving the way for a few people that have this kit! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anzo Posted August 15, 2013 Author Share Posted August 15, 2013 Dave J, I am glad that you enjoy this build, I enjoy too. Hope the WIP helps in some way. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkranias Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 ....paving the way for a few people that have this kit! the damage has been done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efrick Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 Brilliant build so far! Looking forward to further installments! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anzo Posted August 16, 2013 Author Share Posted August 16, 2013 the damage has been done! Ha..ha..I guess I am digging a hole for some people to jump. Brilliant build so far! Looking forward to further installments! Thanks, efrick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 Just read through this build 1 what fantastic modelling skills 2 what a great blog - excellent teaching skills! May I ask has this kit been re-released by Revell, or is that something different? (I am rather ignorant when it comes to Aircobras...) Is the kit basically accurate but needs extra detailing? I always wanted to do a Russian plane...maybe one day In the mean time I will continue to follow this thread Many thanks for sharing Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 Thanks Matt, much appreciated May be doing that Word save thing too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anzo Posted August 19, 2013 Author Share Posted August 19, 2013 Just read through this build 1 what fantastic modelling skills 2 what a great blog - excellent teaching skills! May I ask has this kit been re-released by Revell, or is that something different? (I am rather ignorant when it comes to Aircobras...) Is the kit basically accurate but needs extra detailing? I always wanted to do a Russian plane...maybe one day In the mean time I will continue to follow this thread Many thanks for sharing Nick Thank you, Nick. I think Matt answers your first question. Thanks, Matt. Most of this kit are looked accurate for me. I compare the fuselage with some drawings, the kit fits most of drawings. Also this kit is rich in surface details on fuselage and wing, such as panel lines and rivets. Of course, few panel lines and rivets are not in correct shape or position. Otherwise, the kit includes PE and resin parts for cockpit and exhausts, a plus. The resin exhausts are looked great. PEs can make the cockpit more detailed. But when you look at the cockpit, some components of cockpit are not accurate if you compare with real cockpit, such as dimension and position. They needs some amendments if you want to have an accurate cockpit. Nick - Revell has reboxed the P-39D (which I believe was the initial SH release). To my knowledge, that makes for five total P-39 releases: P-39D (US markings), P-39F/Airacobra Mk.I (also basically P-400) (RAF/RAAF markings), P-39N (in Soviet VVS markings) and P-39Q (US markings), plus the Revell -D. I just got the -F the other day and it's a pretty kit, probably the best short-run styrene I've seen. Based on the quality I cannot wait for the SH Fiat G.50 and Tempest V/II Anzo - I'm totally saving this entire thread. May even copy it over to Word in the event that the internet destroys itself! Thank you for blazing the trail so effectively (and making it look effortless). The resin barrels look a lot like Quickboost's set for the P-38? Thanks for sharing the information, Matt. Wow~~saving this entire thread to Word is a big effort… I am glad that you like this thread. I just want to show these steps for my client to understand what I have done for him. And actually, I skip many simple and bored steps, that may be the reason why you think it “so effectively and effortless”. Ha…ha… Yes, the resin barrels are from Quickbbost set for the P-38. This P-400 has one 20mm cannon and two .50 MGs on nose. The P-38 has same cannon and four .50 MGs. It would be nice to have this set for P-400. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anzo Posted August 19, 2013 Author Share Posted August 19, 2013 Updated. Thanks for watching. Finally assembled the fuselage and wing together. Before this step, the fitting was fine for everything. But I was kind of surprised about these gaps. They were not small. Used styrene sheets and Tamiya putty to fill these gaps. After sanded the surface smooth, re-scribed the panel lines again. Also airbrushed Mr. Surfacer 1200 to make sure having a smooth surface. Put rudder, stabilizers, and elevators on fuselage. Made sure that they were level and straight. This kit included resin exhausts also. Adjusted these exhausts to appropriate position. To avoid the situation of tail touchdown, I put approximately 2 oz. fishing leads on nose. This P-400 became kind of heavy. Put the cover of nose on. The fuselage was ready for painting. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anzo Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share Posted August 26, 2013 New in progress. Thanks for watching. Assembled the nose landing gear. I also added some screws on landing gear by 0.5mm hexagon styrene rod. Assembled the main landing gears. Besides added screws, I made two break lines by 0.25mm metal wire and 0.5mm Ni.Silv tube. Assembled these complicated PE wheel doors. Some steps from the Eduard instruction were not clear, it would be easier if compare with real wheel doors. The bomb and fuel tank had some PEs too. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkranias Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 great work on the PE stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamme Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 Fantastic job! Congrats, Jamme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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