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Gottfreid Weiroster Bf 109G6 R6 Revell 1/32


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9 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Thank you, Kai. 

I think Herr Weiroster deserves a full diorama...  at the least.  And the lounge chair was a common item to German pilots at readiness near their aircraft, so maybe there'll be a reason for future lounge chairs. 

I had to order some styrene for the chair.  The materials I have here just won't work.

I have an E7, too.  Someday, I would like to remember these men at their game of Skat in plastic.

Messerschmitt-Bf-109E7Trop-2.JG27-Black-

Is it still played in Germany?  I have no idea how it's played.  The only card game I'm any good at is hearts.  I suck at poker.

Skat is still played in Germany bit more in the north where I originally come from. I knew how to play it but have meanwhile forgotten.

In the south where I live now since 1981 they play Schafkopf (Sheephead) which I never learned and which had special cards totally different from the ones used for Skat.

I‘m really curious to see your chair! 
 

And don’t forget to continue with the 109…;) :D

 

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16 hours ago, HubertB said:

Hey Gary,

I don’t want to :stirthepot: (well in fact, maybe a little :) ), but it seems Zoukei-Mura got the underbelly shape right on their future 109 …

Oh well, by the time it’s released, your scars from this one will have healed ;) …

Great work and admirable persistence :popcorn:

Hubert

Thank you, Hubert.  I'll be looking forward to the ZM product.  This build was supposed to be a special, all-in build that I was going to do my best to achieve a perfect result.  But Revell drew a moustache on my Mona Lisa.  But I will continue as I am close on the aircraft itself.

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10 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:

Skat is still played in Germany bit more in the north where I originally come from. I knew how to play it but have meanwhile forgotten.

In the south where I live now since 1981 they play Schafkopf (Sheephead) which I never learned and which had special cards totally different from the ones used for Skat.

I‘m really curious to see your chair! 
 

And don’t forget to continue with the 109…;) :D

 

Thank you, Kai.  With all of the card games in the US, I've never given much consideration to what other card games there might be.  Even in reading the memoirs of German veterans, skat is the only one I've seen mentioned.

I have ordered some plastic strip .7mm X 3.16MM (or something like that) to build the chair with.  The construct as it is now looks rather pathetic.  I still have hopes of achieving a decent looking lounge chair.  The only thing that could be better would be a smiling pilot in the lounge chair.  I will do more to the 109 this weekend.  My club has a meeting Saturday so I won't be working on it during the meeting. 

I hope to have a relatively lazy (i.e., lots of modelling) sunday.

I have to do a little work around the windscreen as I needed to do a bit of work to get it plumb.   Once that and masking the clear parts is done, I can do some test painting.

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6 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Gaz

Nice work on the parachute - looks mighty good. Agree that the lawn chair is a bit more intricate.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

Thank you, Peter.  Yes...  the lounge chair is a bit of work.  Some pieces might not be true to scale.

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Ok, just a mini sort of update.  and the status of various parts:

1.  Droptank.  Dented.  Painted and decaled.  Awaiting oil staining and weathering.

2.  Parachute.  Assembled.  Painted, awaiting weathering.

3.  Pilot.  Ready to go.

4.  Deck Chair.  First attempt an abysmal failure.  Found a drawing and measurements.   Ordered plastic strip for second attempt.

5.  WfGr 21.  Ready for detail painting and weathering.

6.  Base.  Not even started, yet.

7.  The aircraft.  (Hopefully) have the surface worked clean.  I've cleaned off as much test paint as possible.  Masked fore and aft canopy parts and added antenna mast.  Took pics with different phone as I now have a new secondhand phone passed by the missus.

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Happy modelling!

 

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Guten Abend, liebe Freunde!

   Through my short evening periods each night, between when I have a few minutes here and there for modelling, I have not been idle.

I assembled the Eduard PE armor head shield and masked and painted the canopy parts.

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Now...  I heard this phrase at my club meet the other day:  "One of the best adhesives you can find is Clear Nail Polish".  I've had some for some time that I was going to use for another project....   but never used.  So, instead of worrying about CA fumes, I decided to attach the shield with clear nail polish.  It works!  And feels less fragile than a CA joint.  It's not very tacky as you start to use it, but once it dries, it's very rigid.

 

Now...    I have a special request:  I need a pic or three of the hinges on a 109 canopy.  I have no idea what they should look like.

 

I also used the same nail polish for attaching the wingtip light covers:

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I drilled small holes in the clear plastic and inserted some paint 'light bulbs'.

Kai...   I'm sorry it's taken so long to produce the requested photos:

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IMG_0009.JPG.643483c3859b8bb269c81eea85e67cc8.JPG

 

Our intrepid pilots provides some scale for the parachute.

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This is the reverse side of the parachute pack.  As you can see, I constructed every detail before I folded it into a small parcel.

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I inserted a small brass tube at the forefront of the fuel tank to emulate the real thing.  Most of the dents are pretty hard to see.

 

Also...   these macro photos illustrate the limitations of the new phone's camera.  I'll have to go back to the Canon Olympus.

 

Viel Spaß beim Plastikmodellbau, meine Herren!

 

Translations provided by Google translate.  If they're wrong...   please let me know.

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Great detail work Gary! Especially the parachute is a real highlight and well done. 
Thanks also for the fotos of the rocket-launchers. They look awesome!

I‘ve found 3 fotos and a film on YouTube in which you can see how the canopy is hinged.

92F8E55C-C13B-4905-AAEE-9EF137F6CE82.thumb.jpeg.75278c3a32243a7d698790eeda5a94fc.jpeg

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And here is the link to the video:

HTH

and keep up with the excellent work!

Kai

BTW: The german sentences are fully correct…

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4 minutes ago, Kaireckstadt said:

Great detail work Gary! Especially the parachute is a real highlight and well done. 
Thanks also for the fotos of the rocket-launchers. They look awesome!

I‘ve found 3 fotos and a film on YouTube in which you can see how the canopy is hinged.

92F8E55C-C13B-4905-AAEE-9EF137F6CE82.thumb.jpeg.75278c3a32243a7d698790eeda5a94fc.jpeg

6EF904A7-49AF-426F-A121-C7B12603A211.thumb.jpeg.0191312c24bee63364cda7546e631adf.jpeg

4803FE55-F728-416C-A571-9D6C91D9A9AA.thumb.jpeg.6e6ddd33657afe7542d4405bf150ca77.jpeg

And here is the link to the video:

HTH

and keep up with the excellent work!

Kai

BTW: The german sentences are fully correct…

Thank you, Kai!

    It seems the hinges are hidden.  I'm not sure if that is a bonus or not as I have tiny square notches to fill in the canopy framing.  The kit hinges aren't hidden, unfortunately.  Another detail I might add are the small lights inside the windscreen on both sides.

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You could cover the notches with strip styrene on the inside of the canopy, as the bottom horizontal bezels were hollow inside...

I have a few photos to explain the Bf109 G canopy system, just checking as I didn't want to dump a lot of info without prior consent.

S

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3 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Viel Spaß beim Plastikmodellbau, meine Herren!

Vielen Dank mein Herr, your detail work looks splendid. I use Revell contacta clear for clear parts, which seems to be similar to white glue for wood. Since last week, I feared, that the bond could be not strong enough, but then I had the canopy fogging issue with my KI-61 (not caused by the glue) and I was not able to remove it, without using brutal force. 
For the position lights, I use the same technique, but for a newer looking plane use a silver coat on the backside of the clear part.

Cheers Rob

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Gaz

Awesome progress and little each night adds up to a mountain of completed work over time. Love the parachute and you are so right, the standing figure adds so much to scale. Tge rocket launchers and drop tanks look perfect and all the work paid off. I never heard of using clear nail polish but if it survives the abuse of woman wearing it and not chipping off, it has to be strong. I did a quick google search and a good percentage of clear nail polish:

"Basic clear nail polish can be made from nitrocellulose dissolved in butyl acetate or ethyl acetate. The nitrocellulose forms a shiny film as the acetate solvent evaporates."

I not sure how this works with clear parts but after your results, well worth testing.

Photography is a a passion of mine and there is a huge difference between macro and closeup work. Macro work from my understanding on a cell phone isn't macro work at all but works by digital manipulation and zoom lenses that claim to also do macro, unfortunately don't.  A true macro lens allows the small object to be reproduced on the camera sensor up to 1:1 (full size) and close up work just just that, allows you move closer to the subject and maintain focus but not 1:1 magnification. In either case, both reduce the working Depth of Field; what is in focus and what isn't. For the wing tip lights, macro would be perfect as a  shallow depth of field is all that is needed plus the wing tip light would fill the frame. For model photography I very rarely use my Micro Nikkor lens (Nikon always has called their macro lenses micro - I have no idea why) just for the depth of field issues. I don't want to get to technical but the easiest way to reduce  the depth of field issue for model photography is shooting at the smallest F apertures (F22, etc).  if you're into photography, focus stacking is the answer but completely not necessary - just way too much work. Sorry for the long winded explanation.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

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20 hours ago, Wumm said:

You could cover the notches with strip styrene on the inside of the canopy, as the bottom horizontal bezels were hollow inside...

I have a few photos to explain the Bf109 G canopy system, just checking as I didn't want to dump a lot of info without prior consent.

S

Steve,

    I am an infomaniac.  I would love to see whatever you can share about the 109's canopy system.

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18 hours ago, DocRob said:

Vielen Dank mein Herr, your detail work looks splendid. I use Revell contacta clear for clear parts, which seems to be similar to white glue for wood. Since last week, I feared, that the bond could be not strong enough, but then I had the canopy fogging issue with my KI-61 (not caused by the glue) and I was not able to remove it, without using brutal force. 
For the position lights, I use the same technique, but for a newer looking plane use a silver coat on the backside of the clear part.

Cheers Rob


Thank you, Rob!  I have "canopy glue" which seems like an extra tacky white glue.  But it dries to a rubbery texture which doesn't help if you are sanding.  I often use it for PE as it's extra tackiness is a desirable trait when dealing with the stuff.

I wish I had painted the insides of the position lights silver.  I have done it before, but thought it wouldn't matter.  Guess I'll do it next time.

 

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Thank you for the long winded explanation Peter!

Thats really helpful for a foto-rookie like me. Your tipps will help me improve the quality of my fotos. I do them with my IPhone but I think it’s necessary to switch to my Canon EOS Camera.

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16 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Gaz

Awesome progress and little each night adds up to a mountain of completed work over time. Love the parachute and you are so right, the standing figure adds so much to scale. Tge rocket launchers and drop tanks look perfect and all the work paid off. I never heard of using clear nail polish but if it survives the abuse of woman wearing it and not chipping off, it has to be strong. I did a quick google search and a good percentage of clear nail polish:

"Basic clear nail polish can be made from nitrocellulose dissolved in butyl acetate or ethyl acetate. The nitrocellulose forms a shiny film as the acetate solvent evaporates."

I not sure how this works with clear parts but after your results, well worth testing.

Photography is a a passion of mine and there is a huge difference between macro and closeup work. Macro work from my understanding on a cell phone isn't macro work at all but works by digital manipulation and zoom lenses that claim to also do macro, unfortunately don't.  A true macro lens allows the small object to be reproduced on the camera sensor up to 1:1 (full size) and close up work just just that, allows you move closer to the subject and maintain focus but not 1:1 magnification. In either case, both reduce the working Depth of Field; what is in focus and what isn't. For the wing tip lights, macro would be perfect as a  shallow depth of field is all that is needed plus the wing tip light would fill the frame. For model photography I very rarely use my Micro Nikkor lens (Nikon always has called their macro lenses micro - I have no idea why) just for the depth of field issues. I don't want to get to technical but the easiest way to reduce  the depth of field issue for model photography is shooting at the smallest F apertures (F22, etc).  if you're into photography, focus stacking is the answer but completely not necessary - just way too much work. Sorry for the long winded explanation.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

Thank you, Peter!

I don't mind the long explanation.  I just wish I had known about cameras when I was younger...   In my family they just appeared at holidays or birthdays and disappeared soon after.

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1 hour ago, Kaireckstadt said:

Thats really helpful for a foto-rookie like me. Your tipps will help me improve the quality of my fotos. I do them with my IPhone but I think it’s necessary to switch to my Canon EOS Camera.

You can produce good pictures with an Iphone too. I often use mine, when I'm too lazy to pick up the camera and lenses. I found, that color rendition is better with my Iphone, than with my Panasonic Lumix system, using the default settings.
When photographing with the phone, I don't use the normal camera app, instead, I use ProCam (five well spent Dollars, when I remember it right), which allows to use manual settings for the more important settings, like white balance for color rendition and F-stop, to control the depth of field.
It also helps to incorporate a 2x zoom with the phone's camera for natural looking pictures of close ups, concerning the angles. If you use the normal wide angle settings, the picture doesn't look right.

Cheers Rob

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