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Gottfreid Weiroster Bf 109G6 R6 Revell 1/32


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Gaz

Nice work and I'm sure frustration with the scale strip and now you're going to take it apart, narrow up the strip and rebuild it. Just seems everything connected with the build has a 'rainy cloud' over it's head.

But no matter what, you're getting closer and closer to the finish line.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

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On 9/14/2021 at 5:42 AM, Martinnfb said:

1930's

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1940's

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Great pics, Martin!  Thank you!

 

17 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:

Great progress Gary. The camo came out perfect to me! I love these 109 camos with the blotches on the fuselage side. Not easy to replicate but you did it perfect. 
 

Chair is also stunning! Curious how it will look like in the end! 

After trying to thin down the strip evenly, I decided to buy thinner strip.  The new strip will be .5mm X 1mm.  Should be interesting to work with.  There is a lot of work to do on the camo.  Step 1 of the weathering process will be to stress the paint by wet sanding.  This will eliminate some 1/1 scale overspray as well as show wear given to the fuselage in particular as the upper layers of paint on the fuselage were often buffed away in places showing the RLM 76 underneath.

...  then there will be touch up and more weathering.

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2 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Great pics, Martin!  Thank you!

 

After trying to thin down the strip evenly, I decided to buy thinner strip.  The new strip will be .5mm X 1mm.  Should be interesting to work with.  There is a lot of work to do on the camo.  Step 1 of the weathering process will be to stress the paint by wet sanding.  This will eliminate some 1/1 scale overspray as well as show wear given to the fuselage in particular as the upper layers of paint on the fuselage were often buffed away in places showing the RLM 76 underneath.

...  then there will be touch up and more weathering.

From experience, you will need to drill the « rods » holes with a very small (0.3) than slightly larger (0.5 / 0.6) bit. Be prepared for some nerve-wracking job ;) and a lot of failures

If you have a vertical drill, it’s even better, and will save a few drill bits. I’d then recommend stacking the pieces of strip together and holding them in a mini-vice. 

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7 minutes ago, HubertB said:

From experience, you will need to drill the « rods » holes with a very small (0.3) than slightly larger (0.5 / 0.6) bit. Be prepared for some nerve-wracking job ;) and a lot of failures

If you have a vertical drill, it’s even better, and will save a few drill bits. I’d then recommend stacking the pieces of strip together and holding them in a mini-vice. 

I appreciate the info, Hubert.  I have a Dremel drill press.  But the speed is just too fast.  Last time I drilled styrene, I melted styrene.  Stacking them...   that would be a very interesting effort.  But at least starting with a smaller bit...   I can work with.

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7 hours ago, Martinnfb said:

I wouldn't drill, just cut them and glue them together with Tamiya super thin. If you place the whole assembly on a sheet of aluminium kitchen foil, you will be safe safe to peal it nicely off even if you spill or melt some.

That's a great idea.  I could glue each half, and mirror it up precisely...   and then join them with the "dowels".  Thank you!

 

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19 hours ago, DocRob said:

If you still need to drill, even after Martins great idea, it pays, to center the markings for the holes with the point of a sharp blade. This way, the drilling process is more controllable.

Cheers Rob

You'd be amazed at my ability to get the hole off center...  or the drill bit to drift off center...  It is another of those simple manual tasks at which I have failed to excel.

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6 hours ago, GazzaS said:

You'd be amazed at my ability to get the hole off center...  or the drill bit to drift off center...  It is another of those simple manual tasks at which I have failed to excel.

It's normal Gaz, on normal drill bits, which have the typical angles for drilling metal, there is a dead center in the middle, which causes the tip to wander easily. Therefore, it's best to use another tool for punch marking.

Cheers Rob

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12 hours ago, DocRob said:

It's normal Gaz, on normal drill bits, which have the typical angles for drilling metal, there is a dead center in the middle, which causes the tip to wander easily. Therefore, it's best to use another tool for punch marking.

Cheers Rob

Oh...  I didn't know this.  I will make my starting holes bigger, then.

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Individualizing the aircraft:

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I've done some brush and sponge chipping, as well as wearing the paint by sanding.  I've added scuffs, painted the tail wheel as well as the leather boot around the tail wheel strut...   I also scratched it putting it back into the tail wheel yoke.  I've never done much in the past too illustrate the rubber seal behind the engine  cowl.  But, since it's molded there in clear view, I couldn't imagine the black rubber not shedding paint somewhere.

 

Not sure how I like everything yet.  Looks better from a foot or three away.

 

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58 minutes ago, Kaireckstadt said:

Great detail work Gary. To me it’s not overdone and also look convincing from close view. 

Thank you, Kai.  Clear coated and waiting overnight for decals.

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11 hours ago, DocRob said:

I never sanded for weathering effects, but it seems to work great. Love the dedication to details, like the different wear on the overpainted sealing.

Cheers Rob

Sometimes Rob... it can be a lot of sanding to get a desired effect:

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Wish I knew the name of the JG 1 pilot.

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Decalzzzzz.....with an emphasis on the zzzz

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Surprise, Surprise, Surprise exclaims Gomer Pyle.  The hand-hold and toe-kick decals don't matched the molded surfaces.

I dislike little decals.  You can't apply as much pressure on them to get the air bubbles out.  If you do, they move.   I uh...   look forward to slicing all of the tiny bubbles once the matte coat is applied.  Anyway...   this one can sit for a couple days.

 

Happy Modelling!

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