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EVERYTHING UKRAINE GROUP BUILD IS NOW UNDERWAY.

HK Lancaster with Iconicair Dambusters conversion


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Well, since I can't do much on the B-24 until I get a replacement canopy I've decided to work on a different 4 engine heavy. Because that makes so much sense. :lol:

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Reference material for the build. 

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The conversion kit. 

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The box contents. 

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Carl

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First thing to do was read through the Tweak List on here and figure out how much I wanted to correct. 

So I started with filling in the extraneous dinghy hatch and landing lights. 

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I've started painting the interior using Mission Models paint. 

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5 hours ago, Wingco57 said:

Lovely, what is your opinion regarding Mission Models paint? Does it spray well and can it be brushpainted with good coverage?

Thanks! This is only the second model I've used it on. The first was my Bronco Type XXIII U-boat. I had some paint lifting on that one so we'll see if that happens again. As for spraying, it goes on fairly well with decent coverage. I used a few drops of their catalyst but otherwise didn't thin it. I haven't tried brush painting it yet so can't say how well it does there.

 

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21 minutes ago, Bomber_County said:

:popcorn:……Carl are you sure you have every bit of AM available…..😁…..looking forward to this…….

Actually Phil, I'm missing quite a bit. Literally. I have two of the Resin2Detail pilot's seats and can't find either one. 

So here's what I will be using on this build:

- Iconicair conversion set 

- Barracuda cast resin wheels 

- Master brass MG barrels

- DN canopy masks and custom masks for AJ-K 

- Kits world  seatbelts. 

- Eduard PE rad screens

I do have both Eduard Big Ed sets but I'm leaving those for my other Lancaster and I haven't decided if I'll use the Airscale PE instrument panel on this one. 

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So after actually reading the instructions instead of just looking at some pretty pictures, I started on fitting the front spotlight mount. 

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It was fairly straightforward and needed a slight bit of sanding to drop into place. 

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Next up, I started on removing all the ejector pin marks on the bomb bay roof. 

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Fortunately I had a chisel that was the same width as the slots so that made it much easier and faster. 

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Next up is slotting the cable run in the appropriate spots as indicated in the conversion instructions.

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Great work so far Carl. I didn’t remove all the ejector pin marks because most of the bomb-bay is hidden by covers and the Upkeep-mine and the braces holding it.

Do you have the excellent book of Mark Postlethwaite and Peter Forkasewicz about the Dambuster Lancaster? This is really a must when you build it because it shows all the differences of Type 464 provisioning:

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I used it throughout my build and it’s a fantastic reference! 

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1 hour ago, Kaireckstadt said:

Great work so far Carl. I didn’t remove all the ejector pin marks because most of the bomb-bay is hidden by covers and the Upkeep-mine and the braces holding it.

Do you have the excellent book of Mark Postlethwaite and Peter Forkasewicz about the Dambuster Lancaster? This is really a must when you build it because it shows all the differences of Type 464 provisioning:

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I used it throughout my build and it’s a fantastic reference! 

Thanks Kai! I've got the same book. I was lucky enough to get it when it first came out. They're not easy to find and is definitely an great reference.

I've only removed the pin marks under the Upkeep mine as that area seems to be still visible. 

 

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Carl

Nice start on the Lanscaster Dambuster conversion and I'll be following so very intently :popcorn:. Over on Nigel's Modelling bench, he had started the same kit and did quite a bit of corrections including the engines - I'm not sure if he has an nacelle correction sets left as I do not have the kit. Nige is a walking encyclopaedia on the Lancaster and his corrections to the kit are spot on. His build is on hold now, as he is waiting for the Border lancaster to arrive.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

 

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Thanks Peter! I've been going through the Tweak list on here for pitfalls and errors to watch out for. Nigel contributed a fair bit to that. There's a lot of great stuff in there. 

That being said, I don't think I'm going to correct too many of them (eg - the pilot's platform). I don't think I want to get bogged down on the build or it may never get finished. That already happened on my B-25s. 

If I do decide to go all in on a Lanc, I still have another one in the stash. :D

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I decided to work on the main wing. There's a couple fit issues that have pointed out and j thought I should take care of them. 

The big one is the wing tip. The fit is a bit off so I used a spacer inside the wing to make it match the wingtip. 

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That expanded the wing enough to get a much better fit. I ended up only needing a quick sanding to make things flush. 

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I added the rest of the internal structure to the wing and that stiffens up significantly. PXL_20220221_223232559.thumb.jpg.72f193e6e7031c379da1ccf7bb21c9e9.jpg

The landing flaps I'm going to do in the up position. The fit is a bit proud of the surface. You can see this on the inner flap. I've shaved the outer one a but and it's flush now. Just need to do the same to the inner one. 

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Good Progress, Carl.  That resin seat looks pretty awesome.  And it's funny how wingtip fit is off on so many kits.  Not that I have done many...   but any that I have done with a separate wing tip required some sort of filling and sanding.

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2 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Good Progress, Carl.  That resin seat looks pretty awesome.  And it's funny how wingtip fit is off on so many kits.  Not that I have done many...   but any that I have done with a separate wing tip required some sort of filling and sanding.

Thanks Gary! 

The seat is definitely a huge improvement. 

I hear you about wingtips. Mind you the Tamiya Spitfire ones have been a good fit. 

 

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I got the fit of the inner flap corrected sand it now sits flush. Neither one is glued in the pic. 

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I then took a look at the nacelles and how they would fit to the wing. At this point I noticed the rad vent on the underside of the nacelle. PXL_20220222_034322548.thumb.jpg.98c4bb2b9d80fa8c0ee4bf9bb5340d7c.jpg

 

The rear is moulded solid instead of being open. As well, the door sit on top of the nacelle and not in it. 

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I decided to improve this a bit by cutting out the opening in the nacelle. I scribed it first.

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Then cut it using a razor saw. 

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The opening was slightly undersized so I could sand it to the correct dimensions.

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Finally I thinned the edges of the door and fitted it in place.

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This took me about 20 minutes. I just have 3 more to do. 

One other thing though is I had planned to leave out the engines but they're now visible from below so I'm going to have at least do a partial engine inside the nacelles. So much for trying to keep it simple. 

Carl

 

 

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Thanks Phil and Peter. For the quick work on the nacelle, it really is a huge improvement. 

I decided to mock up an engine and see just how much would be visible through the opening. 

I put the basic engine block, rad and mount together. 

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Inserted into the taped together cowl:

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From the front, the rad fills the entire opening. 

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At the rear, you can see the rad as well.

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Looking up, it's really hard to make out anything short of using a flashlight and shining it in there. 

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You can however, see the engine from the exhaust ports.

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There is an optional blanking panel I may use instead if I want to really simplify things for myself. 

 

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6 minutes ago, GazzaS said:

Do you need the engine block to hold the propeller on?

You don't. You can just glue the reduction gear housing to the inside of the backplate. There's also blanking plates for the exhaust ports, they're just not mentioned in the instructions.

 

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7 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

You don't. You can just glue the reduction gear housing to the inside of the backplate. There's also blanking plates for the exhaust ports, they're just not mentioned in the instructions.

 

Definite Time savers there.  Stick in the rads, and those two others and you are done!   ...with the nacelles...  heh.

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