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Hasegawa's 1:32 P47D  "Slick Chick" 368FG/395FS.  Slick Chick will get plenty of love with AM belts/wheels/blast tubes/bombs and some scratch build action on IP/gunsight/ignition wires and M10 bazookas.

P47_SlickChickFinal_Art.jpg

 

I started this as a double build last March.  Slick Chick took a back seat to the Russian Jug (WIP and Finished) as I wanted to figure out the M10 Bazooka build.  Just was not happy with the bazookas I raided from my Trumpy P47N.  I have found a build solution for the M10's so here we go.  Some images will look familiar from the Double Jug thread, enjoy.

 

Aftermarket items include:

Eduard Belts for Slick Chick

Barracuda Wheel set

Hasegawa brass Blast Tubes

Kits World decals for Slick Chick

 

 

I put "Slick Chick" in the bin to work on the Revell Bf109G6 late August.

IMG_5216.jpg

 

Now she's on the prowl and is looking for a party.

IMG_5215.jpg

 

Follow these threads and catch up on "Slick Chick" WIP.

P47DryFit07-1.jpg

General fit seems pretty good with no issues projected on seams, wing roots...however

 

P47DryFit061.jpg

 

 

ENGINE MOUNTS

 

During test fit a glaring issue was the poor fit of the cowling.  Basically it is the complete engine/cowling fitting on the fuselage mount.

P47DryFit05copy.jpg

off by about 1mm

 

THE PIT

 

Pit is OOB with exception of Eduard PE Belts.  Multiple passes of setting solution needed to get the IP decal to settle.

1b8405ab-9407-4acd-b0e8-7db91f2a775f.jpg

04EduardTub.jpg

 

FIXING HIDEOUS

 

Replacing the really thick hideous gunsight..

01GunsightReplace.jpg

Cut from 0.13mm clear styrene, scored then folded.

 

02GunsightReplace.jpg

Color me happy.  Paint crash pad and all done.

 

THE DOCTOR IS IN

02_EngineMount.jpg

carefully removing the engine mount after fuselage is glued and cured, the one piece canopy (I'm using the two piece option for both final builds) is very handy to protect the pit during surgery...

 

03_EngineMount.jpg

using 1.6mm styrene angle 3 pieces are cut and glued, port and starboard sides are easy to position however, the critical bottom piece is dropped 1mm.

 

09_EngineMount.jpg

initial test fit (with complete engine parts) shows an acceptable fit...

 

04_EngineMount.jpg

a final test fit of engine mount then...

 

05_EngineMount.jpg

add a .05mm styrene card placed to recapture space lost from the "saw off" and give the repositioned engine mount some glue area...

 

06_EngineMount.jpg

engine mount positioned and glued...

 

07_EngineMount.jpg

styrene card shows "saw off" recovery...

 

10_EngineMount.jpg

and the final fit is good...

 

08_EngineMount.jpg

 

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ORDINANCE PLEASE

 

Taking the kit supplied bombs and giving them the Eduard PE Treatment.  Will also mount bazookas borrowed from my Trumpy P47N.

01BombCompare.jpg

 

500lb GP bomb.  Left - out of box kit bomb.  Right - PE (brass) fins and front/rear fuse added, also painted with Mr Surfacer 500 then stippled with short brush for texture...

 

02BombCompare.jpg

Fuse detail.  Left - brass PE fuse added.  Right - bomb is kit Out Of Box.

 

05BombCompare.jpg

Rear view with new fins and fuse, the fin is one piece folded over a dozen times...

 

04BombCompare.jpg

Detail is much improved...

 

03BombCompare.jpg

Textured surface (left bomb) will show up better when painted.

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MORE BOMBS

Bombs_ODPainted.jpg

Bombs for "Slick Chick" painted OD.  Texture is hard to see in this pic, but I am happy with results.  Yeah, more dust!  Not sure if yellow ID stripes will be added. 

 

BAZOOKAS

Bazooka01_LeadWire.jpg

The bazookas are from a Trumpy P47N.  Using flat lead wire (UMM-USA FLW103 Flat Lead Wires 1.0 X 0.3mm) and rivet tool I enhanced the detail on the tubes.  The difference is markable.

 

Bazooka02_LeadWire.jpg

The painted bazooka (black then OD) shows good detail otherwise lost.

 

After taking a long look at these I just was not happy.  The lead wire certainly enhanced the M10 Bazookas.  However, a closer look these were just a solid piece of plastic in the shape of tubes.

 

That said, I'm going to scratch build the M10 bazookas.  Using styrene tube 4.8mm dia I cut 6 tubes to size and glued with Tamiya Thin Cement. 

M10_Bazooka01.jpg

 

M10_Bazooka02.jpg

With a Dremel shaping bit I carefully thinned the walls of each tube.

 

M10_Bazooka03.jpg

The set on the left had the walls thinned while the set on the right is on deck for some thin wall treatment.

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Hey Rick!

 

Nice one

 

I have this kit and will be doing a similar bird

 

2 questions:

1. have you got pics of this with the bazookas? I really like them but found it hard to find a plane I am interested in with them mounted

2. What are you basing you scratch build of the bazookas on? Do you have plans proving the kit ones are way short? Not disagreeing with you, just interested in what the motivation is...

 

Looking forward to more!!

 

N

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Hey Rick!

 

Nice one

 

I have this kit and will be doing a similar bird

 

2 questions:

1. have you got pics of this with the bazookas? I really like them but found it hard to find a plane I am interested in with them mounted

2. What are you basing you scratch build on? Do you have plans proving the kit ones are way short? Not disagreeing with you, just interested in what the motivation is...

 

Looking forward to more!!

 

N

Nick - the reason for making Bazookas is I am not happy with the solid ends of the tubes.  Photos clearly show the tube ends are open.  Not sure on the length issue.  Geeze, now you gone and stirred the pot!

 

Hare are some of my reference pics.  Now I may have to do some measuring.

 

P47BazookaMounted.jpg

 

Bazooka_WeatherDetail.jpg

 

RocketLaunchers.jpg

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After complete engine build I decided to add ignition wires. 

001EngineFinish.jpg

Slick Chick engine on the right.

 

01SC.jpg

 

R2800_IgnitionWires01.jpg

Using micro drill and lead wire I got to work.

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OK Rick, I see what you really meant about the issue with the engine mount and cowling. I think Ill go a bit farther on my next one maybe a Razorback. Now my next idea, since you have dome so well so far, is trying for the rocket launcher set up as you have. Its a very nice detail. I do have a question though, how did you get those ignition wires to affix to the ignition harness?

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After complete engine build I decided to add ignition wires. 

 

Slick Chick engine on the right.

 

 

 

R2800_IgnitionWires01.jpg

Using micro drill and lead wire I got to work.

Like you said. You drank the kool-aid. :wine:  :lol:

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OK Rick, I see what you really meant about the issue with the engine mount and cowling. I think Ill go a bit farther on my next one maybe a Razorback. Now my next idea, since you have dome so well so far, is trying for the rocket launcher set up as you have. Its a very nice detail. I do have a question though, how did you get those ignition wires to affix to the ignition harness?

Paul - I use these Micro Drill bits.  These are made in Germany and the quality is far superior than the ones mfg in China.  I cannot say enough positive things about these as they have allowed me to take my scratch building to a different level.  It's all about control and these bits offer you delicate and concise control.

 

I used a .30mm bit to drill holes on the Ignition Ring and Cylinders.

 

Contact Allan Sidney @ allansid@alo.com Allan is based in UK.  Introductory sets are about £30.00

 

I got this 50 bit set with a nice range of .30mm to 1.0mm sizes.  This size seems to work best for me, I am all about 1/32 aircraft.  However, Allan will make up a custom set for you. 

 

Since I got these I have yet to use my pin vice.  These are great as using your fingers gives you exceptional control and feel for the work you are doing.  These are used in the aerospace and electronics industry and are made in Germany and not the Carbide ones made in China.  I just love these and highly recommend them. 

 

They are not bullet proof as care must be taken when using the fine sizes.  I did break a .30mm and .45mm.  Credit to the product it was my clumsiness which caused the breakage.  Steady hand is required.  Noting, I was able to drill out a 1/32 scale pitot tube and underwing antenna of my Bf109 to replace with wire.  Not possible with a pin vice.

 

Allan was great to work with.  He asked good questions about my needs and was most prompt with my inquiries.  The awesome storage case is in short supply.  As of October, Allan had only a few available.

 

James Hatch also did a review on these in 2009 on Scale Plastic and Rail.

 

MicroDrillBits.jpg

 

Best - Rick

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R2800 all wired.  Ignition wires in place.  Will add a matt varnish and mount.  Then the painting begins!

 

R2800_IgnitionWires001.jpg

 

R2800_IgnitionWires03.jpg

 

R2800_IgnitionWires02.jpg

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Something has me thinking that this is supposed to be a later version of that 2800. it is supposed to be a 47D 40 and I thought they had the later crankcase and gear reduction unit. I also thought it was supposed to have two plugs per cylinder but this is just comparing apples to oranges and it may be a moot point. Just curious.

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Something has me thinking that this is supposed to be a later version of that 2800. it is supposed to be a 47D 40 and I thought they had the later crankcase and gear reduction unit. I also thought it was supposed to have two plugs per cylinder but this is just comparing apples to oranges and it may be a moot point. Just curious.

Good point, albeit a PW2800 experten I am not.  2 ignition wires to each cylinder accomplished.  Hasegawa's ignition ring configuration does not make sense, even to a layman like me. 

 

Eduards PE ignition wires do not line up the Hasegawa's ignition ring.  Further, observing the AIres PW2800 "Early" proves quite a difference to the Hasegawa ignition ring.

 

Since I am not building a plane for the NASM I will settle for the FICE approach.

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Had some time to work on my M10's.

 

M10_Build_RK07.jpg

 

M10_Build_RK08.jpg

Will send dimension and parts schedule when I finish.  Relatively painless build so far, hard part has been finding time.

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More progress on the M10 tubes. Those "tuning fork" thingys are the mounts.  Hope to finish these tubes by end of week next week.  Then the painting will begin.

 

M10_Build_RK09.jpg

 

M10_Build_RK10.jpg

 

M10_Build_RK11.jpg

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That's going to be a great looking '47 Rick. I look forward to seeing the finished model.

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That's going to be a great looking '47 Rick. I look forward to seeing the finished model.

so am I John!  :)

 

Looking REAL good Rick!   :wub:   Love the P-47!

thanks Jonathan.

 

Looking forward to those dimensions. Leaning toward scratching the tubes for my 1/24 Jug.

stay tuned....

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Its been a very challenging 48 hours and I was happy to get in some "bench therapy".

 

More progress on the M10's.  A few more details and some bolt heads, rivets and I'll be done.  There are flaws too numerous to mention.  However, I am happy with the results so far.  Hopefully a coat of paint and weathering will do some magic.

 

M10_Build_RK12.jpg

 

M10_Build_RK13.jpg

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Rick you should give video lessons on scratch building. Beautiful work!!

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