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What type of glue do you use for modeling?


RalphSarc
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I use Tamiya Extra thin, Tamiya regular, Revell contacta pro, Cianoacrilate low, mediun and high viscosity. For each case I use one.

For canopies and PEs, I use gator's glue, and to fix lead weights, I use silicone glue.

 

Cheers, Paulo.

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Welcome Ralph

 

Another vote for Tamiya Extra Thin. It's very easy to work with...just press the parts together and then dip the brush  and blot the

glue on to the joint. Capillary action will suck the glue right along the joint line and then the chemistry takes over to melt the

plastic to create a firm bond.

 

This stuff is da bomb. Just be careful where your fingers are in relation to the joint. When the glue runs around it's easier to get

your fingers stuck in it (and leave prints on the piece) than with regular tube glue.

 

You sometimes have to use different glues for different media. I like white glue or watch crystal cement to stick clear parts on since

the clear part can't be 'fogged'. Super glue (Cyanoacrylate - CA) is your best bet for sticking photo-etch parts to plastic.

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Thanks for all the warm welcomes and the info concerning glues. Like many of us here I started my modeling career at a young age with cars and planes, Tester Glue and Tester paints brushed on, lol! My skill set over the years has improved, not nearly to the level I've seen here, but I was still using good old Tester Glue in a tube with mostly good results but have seen other products avalible at my local Hobby Town USA and wondered how well the worked.

I just recently purchaced a magnified headband which to say the least "has opened my eye, lol!!" I have also, thanks to this site, learned valuable techniques that I have begun to us in my modeling.

Thanks again and I look forward to my learning experience here.

Ralph.

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I use Gunze Mr Cement S

 

2187_rn.jpg

 

or

 

Tamiya Extra Thin Cement

 

291_rn.jpg

They work the same. You brush the glue over/in the seam between the parts. Through capillary action the glue is drawn into the seam and immediately evaporates, welding the plastic together. As written above, it's like MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) in that respect. It even (kinda) smells the same.

 

Only, I don't ever use the brush that's in the cap. I directly take that one off. I use a 000 paintbrush as applicator, that gives me better and finer control over where I apply the glue.

 

This capillary type isn't always the right choice, so sometimes I use Revell Contacta

 

291_rn.jpg

 

I usually DON'T apply the glue directly out of the metal tube, usually pouring a drop on some alu foil and applying the needed glue with a cocktail stick or a needle.

 

For resin and Photo-Etch I use any brand of cyano-acrylate (super glue) or 2 component  epoxy adhesive.

 

pe-supergel.jpg

 

 

kj;lkjlkj.jpg

 

For glass parts I usually use white wood glue

 

2237Houtlijm_D2.JPG

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I just use Zap-A-Gap medium CA+ on everything, I apply it by first putting the CA on a plate then I use a toothpick to apply it to parts, but I do use Klear on my clear parts first to stop them frosting.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

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Thanks again for your kind suggestion concerning glues etc. Visited my local Hobbytown USA and purchased a few items that I'm looking forward to using on my next build which will be a BF110. Also received a education on washes from a very nice person working the model department.

 

B2588E04-C89C-4DB1-AEC6-9232FE55208E_zps

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Enjoy the build Ralph. 

 

I'm a fan of the Tamiya extra thin cement which annoyingly can't be (easily) obtained in Hong Kong any more!

 

I'm using a 1/72 B17 to practice with the Tamiya extra thin cement. After using Tester Tube Glue exclusively for years these new glues have their learning curve. How does Tamiya Extra Thin Cement work on painted surfaces?

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Nothing works on painted surfaces. At least not very well. The whole concept of plastic cement is to create a chemical reaction. In a nutshell, it melts the two surfaces together. And paint will act a barrier between the 2 surfaces so the bond will easily be broken by 1 surface simply pulling the paint off the other. That is why both (or 3 or 4) surface faces must be paint free and clean.

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I'm using a 1/72 B17 to practice with the Tamiya extra thin cement. After using Tester Tube Glue exclusively for years these new glues have their learning curve. How does Tamiya Extra Thin Cement work on painted surfaces?

Paul is absolutely right on this. The only time I know of it even remotely working, is if the painted surface is to the outside of the seam. That being said, however, since thin cement works using capillary action to create a chemical weld, (think arc or even mig welding), it leads to another issue. By doing that, the cement will weld the plastic, but raise a bead of melted plastic mixed with paint on the other side of the seam, which will have to be sanded, scraped, or removed somehow. This creates the potential to remove a contour, leave gouges or even small holes, which will have to be addressed prior to repainting.

 

Btw-guess how I know this...... :wallbash:

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There's another handy type of glue....simple all purpose glue like Pattex 100%.

 

I use it instead of white (wood) glue. Strong bond when dry, good filling properties, fairly sticky when applied, dries clear and it doesn't frost clear parts.

 

I mostly use it on resin and clear parts, also useable for PE. Resin and PE sometimes in combination with CA glue.

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Hi Ralph,

 

Yet another vote for Tamiya Extra Thin. I generally use good ol' Elmer's White Glue for clear parts, and "Super Glue"-type cyanoacrylates for PE (Paulster mentioned Future to affix PE, which I want to try as well). I also use Tenax on occasion, but to be honest I only use it on nice days when I can go outside to apply it...the vapors give me a raging headache, and even my spray booth doesn't pull all the odor of it out. :nuke:

 

For applying the Tamiya cement along long seams, I use a "Touch-n-Flow" applicator. If I was ever told I could only keep one tool in my workshop, this would likely be it.

 

http://www.micromark.com/touch-n-flow-applicator,7841.html

 

Regards,

Ed

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