Jump to content
The Great LSM Twins Group Build ends July 3, 2024 ×

1:32 Hasegawa Ki44-II (item 08220)


Recommended Posts

Cheer Gents; comments much appreciated.

 

Markings were knocked back with some some wet 6000 grade Micromesh to avoid the red staining the white, and an old No.11 scalpel blade.  Model was then sealed with a 7:3 mix of Tamiya's X-22 Gloss and XF-86 Flat clears thinned with lacquer thinner - a sort of satin mix as I've had trouble getting enamel- and oil-based washes to stick to high gloss finishes.  AK 303 enamel "Grey wash for Kriegsmarine ships" was applied to the kit panel lines and rivets.  AK 045 enamel "Dark brown wash for green vehicles" was applied to the extra rivet detail added around the cowlings, and to the control surface hinge lines.  This was then sealed with some Testors Dullcote lacquer.

 

44S_zps8c0da0cc.jpg

 

45S_zpsd288f12b.jpg

 

46S_zps6e8b0c55.jpg

The AK 303 stripped the paint down to the plastic in seconds.  No idea why.  The wheel bay door decal wouldn't play nicely either.

 

47S_zps2e8c83fe.jpg

At times the paintwork seemed to repel the AK 303 wash.  No such issues with the AK 045 though.

 

48S_zpsa2486469.jpg

 

49S_zps8a0c397a.jpg

 

50S_zps6ef7f708.jpg

 

51S_zps83883709.jpg

 

52S_zps68febf15.jpg

 

53S_zpsb11847f7.jpg

 

54S_zpsbf6d2905.jpg

 

Thanks for looking.  Cheers, Ralph.

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Dave:  yes - painted them XF-16 Flat Aluminium.  Hasegawa calls out "flat silver", and after looking at period pics on jaircraft, I was happy to go with an NMF of sorts instead of the usual grey-green this time round.

 

Bevan:  have replacement decal coming.  Apparently one of the Kagero Top Colours titles has profiles/decals for the aircraft.  In their case the numbers are separate, so the background colours can be painted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Dave:  yes - painted them XF-16 Flat Aluminium.  Hasegawa calls out "flat silver", and after looking at period pics on jaircraft, I was happy to go with an NMF of sorts instead of the usual grey-green this time round.

 

Bevan:  have replacement decal coming.  Apparently one of the Kagero Top Colours titles has profiles/decals for the aircraft.  In their case the numbers are separate, so the background colours can be painted.

I'm a little miffed as to why the decals are one piece in the kit, makes more sense if they were separate. Ah well it is what it is, glad you've got a remedy.

 

cheers Bevan

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Couldn't work out how to weather this one so time to start putting it together...

 

55S_zpsje2jd6le.jpg

Some Vallejo acrylic earth tones applied by sponge...

 

56S_zpsemxkuwrd.jpg

 

57S_zpsmibd7n5v.jpg

Thanks to Ron Cline for the replacement decal - much appreciated Ron.

 

58S_zpslpb2fzxb.jpg

Ultracast's resin exhausts (item QB 32 072).  Highly-thinned 1:1 mix of XF-68 NATO Brown and XF-69 NATO Black was misted around the engine area for some shadow.

 

59S_zpsvj7cqdbd.jpg

 

60S_zpsqxx7a8gd.jpg

 

61S_zpsrild1ejz.jpg

 

62S_zpsikwckwxa.jpg

As I couldn't decide what to do about weathering, the landing flaps were fitted to cover up most of the inner wing detail.

 

Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Although the picture of part;  riveter & steel tape sort of tell the story, I'd love to watch a video of you riveting.

Do you mark the lines first? Do you tape the steel guide down for each line? You specifically describe re-defining each rivet with a needle after using the riveting tool - do you  sand these areas afterwards?

Apologies if the questions seem pedantic but although I haven't tried riveting anything yet, I'm guessing its a lot more difficult than it looks to achieve the perfect finish I see here...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello ophthoidoug.  No - no lines first.  I scale rivet plans to 1:32 and then use a pair of dividers to mark the start and endpoints of the lines.  Then just align the flexible steel rule and emboss the rivets.  The steel rule is just held in place with fingers - much easier and quicker.  For NM/silver finishes I gently sand the rivet bumps with worn 1200 wet-and-dry emery paper under the tap.  For camo schemes, I leave the bumps there and gently sand after the camo's been applied.  That way you can expose some of the rivets and add a darker wash to contrast the "hole" against the paintwork/exposed rivet.  Hope this helps.  Cheers, Ralph.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...