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Bf 109 G-10/U4, W.Nr.613195 (?), "Yellow 19", II.JG 52


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Cheers Gents.  Roy's wheels...





Tamiya's grey surface primer from the little square bottle thinned with their lacquer thinner...



1:1 XF-1 Flat Black and XF-85 Rubber Black for the hubs; 1:1 XF-27 Black Green and XF-86 for the tyres...



X-22 Clear Gloss, some EagleCals stencil decals, and some "highlights"...



Rough overspray with XF-52 Flat Earth followed by XF-55 Deck Tan...



Radial direction wet sanding with 3000 grade Micromesh.  Even that took the nice sharp points off Roy's hub bolts.  Sanding water left in the recesses...



A smidge more sanding followed by watery washes made from Vallejo Model Colour 70826 German Cam. Medium Brown and Panzer Aces 321 Highlight British Tker. Bolt heads and bright highlights touched in with a 2B pencil.  Small darkish scribbles added from Vallejo Model Colour 70822 German Cam. Black Brown and 70950 Black.



Forgot to do the tail wheel...

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  • 3 weeks later...

Decided to try some HGW wet transfer stencils after the positive results on the Mk.XVI Spitfire.  The HGW set (232009) is meant for the G-6, so the stencilling on this one is a mishmash of HWG wet transfers, kit decals, and left-over Eagle Cals decals.






Eagle Cals dotted line with HGW text...



HGW stencil - cut to allow easier placement.



HGW stencils - loosely based on the stencil type/layout in JaPo's G-10/U-4 book.    Hard to say if they are the correct ones though as the JaPo drawings are difficult to read.  Wondered whether some of the HGW stencils were a tad over-scale.

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Hope I'm not too late with this one Ralph. The "Vorsicht biem offnen" decal is for the lower cowling, and roughly translates as "Beware when opening, radiator is contained within the cover".



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Steve:  appreciate your feedback.  That's where I'd usually expect to see the stencil located.  The JaPo book suggests that there's a similarly-worded stencil as per the model.  Couldn't work out what the stencil says, so took a punt.  May have to repaint the engine cowl.  The white-yellow-red triangle was another dubious choice - not come across it before - but it was closest to the one shown in the JaPo book.

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Cheers Ralph,


But I was mistaken about the info regarding the triangle stencil I sent you. I thought you meant the starboard M/W stencil, and not the oil stencil beside the hatch on the port side... usual colour for oil was brown, if you're re-painting the front end.


Teach me to reply to PM's when I'm half asleep...



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Stencils had been sealed under X-22 so decided to repaint, but l lost internet access for a few days so missed Steve's advice regarding the triangle.  "She stays" this time around.


Underside washes...  these pics are getting all to common these days, so completely understand it they are of little interest.


General AK 303 Grey Wash for Kriegsmarine Ships pin wash...



A.MIG 1608 AMMO PLW Deep Brown in selected areas for a bit more grime in the rivets...



AK 012 Streaking Grime for Dark Yellow Vehicles for more grime behind the engine...





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Topside washes...



A.MIG 1602 PLW Deep Grey on the light grey areas...



A.MIG 1617 PLW Blue Black around the engine panels, cockpit area, and a few random rivet lines...



A.MIG 1618 PLW Deep Brown in the control surface hinge lines, and AK 012 Streaking Grime for Dark Yellow Vehicles around the engine cowls and tail wheel/rudder...















1:1 X-22 Clear Gloss and XF-86 Flat Clear sealer coat...







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Damn! And you make it look so easy!  :o:D





Second that.


I can't help my jaw dropping to the floor every time I see your paint jobs Ralph, simply amazing. Gonna try some of your methods on my Me410, but I don't have the illusion coming close to your level. 

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Fantastic airbrushing Ralph!


I don't know if you've covered this before or not, but would you mind sharing what your set up is for the very subtle airbrushing you do? More specifically, what kind of air pressure you spray at, how thin is the paint, how close to the model do you apply it from and anything else you can add to this topic.


Thanks for sharing your work, Chuck.

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