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HB Models B-24 Hints, Tweaks, Tips


Clunkmeister
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I am about to do a review of the Eduard cockpit set compared to Peters set for the Lancaster, chalk and cheese is all I'm saying.

I pre-ordered the Eduard set hoping it would have some missing parts from the HK cockpit, but it is VERY basic.

I don't think Peter does a B-17 IP because he likes to do accurately correct stuff. The IP in that kit is way off on shape due to the round nose, so if Peter did an accurate IP it would look odd, this isn't fact, just my opinion.

 

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22 hours ago, CrankyCrafstman said:

Hey Nige 

 They may be to far forward, but the correct P&W R-1830-41 will still not fit inside of the HB B-24J's cowls, no matter how far back you move them. I have a R-1830 from Trumpeters F4F-3, which is the correct diameter (see previous post) and it WON'T FIT!  

 

I have the Trumpeter F4-F engine built up without rocker covers and it falls in the cowlings on the wings with room to spare?? I would imagine there may be a need to shave a little plastic out of the cowlings with the covers fitted, but not much??

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7 minutes ago, NigelR32 said:

I have the Trumpeter F4-F engine built up without rocker covers and it falls in the cowlings on the wings with room to spare?? I would imagine there may be a need to shave a little plastic out of the cowlings with the covers fitted, but not much??

Hey Nige 

 I'll take another look I might be wrong. But I have 4 of the WBs engines that only cost me around $25 US. I have 1 F4F-3 engine that I got off of Ebay thinking this might cure the poor engines in the kit. But it was the only one I could find with out having to purchase 4 Trumpeter F4F kits at $30-40US each plus shipping from China. That would cost more then I payed for the HB B-24j kit that I got for $150.00US.

Ron G 

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3 minutes ago, CrankyCrafstman said:

Hey Nige 

 I'll take another look I might be wrong. But I have 4 of the WBs engines that only cost me around $25 US. I have 1 F4F-3 engine that I got off of Ebay thinking this might cure the poor engines in the kit. But it was the only one I could find with out having to purchase 4 Trumpeter F4F kits at $30-40US each plus shipping from China. That would cost more then I payed for the HB B-24j kit that I got for $150.00US.

Ron G 

Yeah, or wait for Eduard to produce a Brassin engine set, that'll cost as much as the kit for sure!!

I plan to play around a little and perhaps make my own resin engines?? I'm just looking at how to mount them whilst i play with the props.. more on that later.

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Hey Nige 

 One more thing, do you think you could use the extra paddle blade prop blades from the HK Lancaster on the HB B-24j to correct the wrong prop diameter by putting them on the B-24's prop hubs? I'm going down to my work bench right know to check this out.

Thanks Ron G 

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10 minutes ago, NigelR32 said:

Yeah, or wait for Eduard to produce a Brassin engine set, that'll cost as much as the kit for sure!!

I plan to play around a little and perhaps make my own resin engines?? I'm just looking at how to mount them whilst i play with the props.. more on that later.

Vector makes a nice B-24/c-47 engine.but it costs $28.95US

72-004_large.jpeg

32-008_1_large.jpeg

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53 minutes ago, CrankyCrafstman said:

Hey Nige 

 One more thing, do you think you could use the extra paddle blade prop blades from the HK Lancaster on the HB B-24j to correct the wrong prop diameter by putting them on the B-24's prop hubs? I'm going down to my work bench right know to check this out.

Thanks Ron G 

Hang fire Ron.. I'm just uploading a video now on how I corrected the props.

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1 hour ago, NigelR32 said:

I am about to do a review of the Eduard cockpit set compared to Peters set for the Lancaster, chalk and cheese is all I'm saying.

I pre-ordered the Eduard set hoping it would have some missing parts from the HK cockpit, but it is VERY basic.

I don't think Peter does a B-17 IP because he likes to do accurately correct stuff. The IP in that kit is way off on shape due to the round nose, so if Peter did an accurate IP it would look odd, this isn't fact, just my opinion.

 

That may well be true Nige, but I still wish he would do one. All his stuff is a thing of beauty !.....harv

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4 minutes ago, CrankyCrafstman said:

Wow Nige

 Thats pretty cool, but it's alot of work :omg: I think I'm going to put my 38 years of automotive and aircraft engineering to work and see if I can come up with a easier fix. :book::construction::hsmack:

Lot of work?? Cuting a piece of plastic, adding a piece of strip and sanding to shape.?? Hardly a lot of work really??

What a coincidence.. I also have 33 years in Aerospace at Rolls Royce and 5 years in automotive engineering at Delphi.  

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1 minute ago, NigelR32 said:

Lot of work?? Cuting a piece of plastic, adding a piece of strip and sanding to shape.?? Hardly a lot of work really??

What a coincidence.. I also have 33 years in Aerospace at Rolls Royce and 5 years in automotive engineering at Delphi.  

Serious coincidence. I have 35 years of attempting to not break airplanes and driving automobiles to destruction.

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Yeah  Nige

  I worked for the BigThree her in the states GM, Ford and Chrysler (FCA). I designed and engineered all of the different types of tools and fixtures that put automobiles together. After the auto industry slowed down her in Detroit I had to find other work so I hit the road and ended up doing turbine design for Rolls Royce in Ohio. I also did a stint at GE in Greenville doing the same turbine design work. The turbines I  worked on were massive you could actually crawl inside one of the housings. They were used as power plants for the oil drilling industry to power the pumps that bring oil from offshore oil rigs to shore. They were around 15' (4.572m) tall and 40'-59' long (12.192m-15.24m) and had to be moved by rail.

Building a jig and doing it 4 times is the work. I think I can come up with an easier method. Going to give it a try, if it doesn't work I'll go your route.

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19 hours ago, ScottsGT said:

Hey, you engineer types figure this out and let us know! Maybe we need a miniature sliding compound miter saw for model work!  The hard part looks like that jig Nige made up. 

Ha ha.. I was once helping a bricklayer build my garage years ago. He asked me to check the walls for length on each side. I did so and reported back.. "One sides is 10mm longer than the other". He replied... "F*(K*$ng Engineers"!!!!!!!!!!! Yeah he shouted at me!!

The jig is easy.. scrap plastic bits and about an hour is all that is needed. Go on.. you can do it lol.

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LOL, Im 49 and I have been working in Aviation (Boeing, Bell, RR, and GE) most of my life, so 10 mm in the aviation biz is a gross error!

You reminded me of a previous job, where I worked in a place where I managed installation of electronic equipment in offices. We had many complaints because our crews were hanging monitors exactly level. Unfortunately, most building are far from exact, I had to explain to the guys that level is not always correct, especially if the ceiling has a little tilt. After much arguing, they finally started installing by measuring off the ceiling, rather than using levels. The engineer deep down inside is conflicted with the artist side that does things visually.

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On 3/4/2019 at 10:20 PM, NigelR32 said:

Here you go guys.. this is how I corrected the props on my B-24.. Of course, if you have a spare set lying around from a HKM B-17?? They could be used.

 

 

Great demo, Nigel.  Love the jig :respect:

Hubert

 

PS: now that the props are OK, I am afraid that these cowlings will need to be enlarged as well for the kit to look right :popo:

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1 hour ago, HubertB said:

Great demo, Nigel.  Love the jig :respect:

Hubert

 

PS: now that the props are OK, I am afraid that these cowlings will need to be enlarged as well for the kit to look right :popo:

OK, I'll take a look....

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6 minutes ago, CrankyCrafstman said:

If you enlarge, or I should say reshape the cowls your going to have to do the same thing to the nacelles which will be alot more difficult, especially the inner one because of the main landing gear goes through it.:hsmack::2c:

Yep.

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