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HK Models 1/32 Lancaster Hints, Tweaks and Tips,


NigelR32

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On 2/3/2019 at 8:09 AM, yknu said:

Time to start: removal of the wrong dinghy storage and landing lights. I try to use my self made putty from Tamiya extra thin and sprue. It will shrink so I wil wait atleast a week. Let’s what will be the result :0) 

13734BAC-9C4F-4FE1-AD95-FBC847F67EFF.jpeg

B03CC453-E9A2-4B34-953B-97C2248591E1.jpeg

 

Nice job Yrjo.. that is a good way to fill those holes. I remember trying to do this using mr Surfacer and I was forever chasing it due to shrinkage. Which landing lights are wrong mate??

If I may suggest, perhaps in future you could consider masking the area around the focused repair as this will avoid a lot of rework after you're done?

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Some say the trim wheel next to the pilots seat is over sized.. I'm not so sure???

805812658_cockpitseat2.thumb.jpg.ce65452928d5b10df114c829adc54624.jpg

I made a smaller one from a spare wheel, mr surfacer and some stretched sprue, but when I fitted it, it looks too small.

More pics in my works in progress thread.

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2 hours ago, yknu said:

Now the formation lights:0) Both version existed side by side. I contacted HKModels about this. I need to find out which ones my reference has. 67719F54-CA1A-4B18-9635-007A968F6A11.thumb.jpeg.e25e54a3ec33a7711cb1f7c445debb56.jpeg

For a wartime aircraft those external lights are wrong.

Wartime aircraft only had One light contained within the clear wing tip(s)

Red/Green to the front as ID  and White lights at the rear for formation lights

David

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6 minutes ago, FME erk said:

For a wartime aircraft those external lights are wrong.

Wartime aircraft only had One light contained within the clear wing tip(s)

Red/Green to the front as ID  and White lights at the rear for formation lights

David

Haynes Lancaster book page 33 TOP and page both 34 RIGHT - looks like formation lights seemsxto be like in HKM Lanc. Same in Lancaster ar War , Pathfinder Sq ( Alex Thorne) page 66-67 (ME701 Whos Bessie) 

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A minor faux pas in the instructions... Step 64

DSCN2130-1.jpg

The attachment holes on part F2 are on the side opposite that shown in the instructions. The same is true for part F1 in the second step. Note that the assembly has magically flipped in the third drawing.

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18 hours ago, yknu said:

Haynes Lancaster book page 33 TOP and page both 34 RIGHT - looks like formation lights seemsxto be like in HKM Lanc. Same in Lancaster ar War , Pathfinder Sq ( Alex Thorne) page 66-67 (ME701 Whos Bessie) 

I think that that type of wing tip lights were not common. 

I have seen them ooccasionally  on wartime Lancs  but generally they are in the minority.

This just proves the value of research into your particular Lancaster you wish to model.

I am interested where 'Dark Victory' comes from i.e. Which Squadron ?

 

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9 minutes ago, FME erk said:

Bill

Can you determine if the engine cowlings can be built up without the engines being assembled ?

ie. still insert the propeller on a pivot thro the piece that goes at the front of the cowling  ? ?

David

I have been wondering the same. I am not going to display the engines. 

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19 minutes ago, FME erk said:

I think that that type of wing tip lights were not common. 

I have seen them ooccasionally  on wartime Lancs  but generally they are in the minority.

This just proves the value of research into your particular Lancaster you wish to model.

I am interested where 'Dark Victory' comes from i.e. Which Squadron ?

 

I was missspelling -it is  Dark Victor 617 sqn. (jb139, tranfered from 49 sgn) 

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29 minutes ago, FME erk said:

Bill

Can you determine if the engine cowlings can be built up without the engines being assembled ?

ie. still insert the propeller on a pivot thro the piece that goes at the front of the cowling  ? ?

David

It should be relatively simple to do, David. Here is the outer cowling tacked together with white glue and tape...

DSCN2132-1.jpg

The hole in the end plate is approximately 4.35 mm in diameter; the shaft end of the engine has a small step that engages the hole (4.31 mm).

DSCN2133-1.jpg

The propeller shaft itself has a diameter of 2.81 mm.

DSCN2134-1.jpg

If you have capability for turning parts, it should be relatively simple.

Here is a rudimentary drawing of what is required:

DSCN2135-1.jpg

The thickness of the largest diameter disk is inconsequential; I personally would opt for something about 1.5mm thick. I hope this helps.

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Guys, all the parts you need to build the model without engines are in the kit. Sprue Z has the parts for the exhausts and I assume you could use the engine front cover as the spindle? I have only just noticed, the kit doesnt provide parts to enable props to turn?

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17 hours ago, Bill_S said:

A minor faux pas in the instructions... Step 64

DSCN2130-1.jpg

The attachment holes on part F2 are on the side opposite that shown in the instructions. The same is true for part F1 in the second step. Note that the assembly has magically flipped in the third drawing.

Another tip I can offer here is to alter the assembly sequence.

Dont glue the oil tank to the framework. Dpont glue the upper frame, F3 in the pics above and assemble and clamp until dry. This way you have a fully built frame that can be painted without the tank. Paint the tank seperately then insert it once the paint is dry.

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On 2/10/2019 at 8:15 PM, FME erk said:

For a wartime aircraft those external lights are wrong.

Wartime aircraft only had One light contained within the clear wing tip(s)

Red/Green to the front as ID  and White lights at the rear for formation lights

David

I concur with David here.. I cannot find a single image, sketch or drawing in my Modellers datafile that shows the wingtip as depicted by this kit. They all have the clear tip covers as depicted on the drawing below the tip in the image above.

We musn't rely on drawings 100% mind you. For example, the B.III drawing I have depicts only one landing light. Another drawing i have depicts a Dinghy on each side!!

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If, like me, you put a lens barrel onto the camera in the front compartment, you'll need to either be careful how long a barrel you make, or be prepared to move the camera upwards.  Otherwise, it fouls the transparency through which it is supposed to point.  I chose to move the camera up a little, so that there was a semi=realistic length to the barrel.

Mike

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Hey Nige 

 I was wondering if you could help me out. I plan on making my HK Lancaster into Sergeant Norman C. Jackson's Lanc "ME699"  "ZN-O". I can't seem to find any information or pictures of this aircraft. I'm looking for info on correct type, correct nose blister, etc. If you have any info on this plane could you pass it on. 

  I have found decals for the code and serial numbers. Are there any books that have pictures of this aircraft? Any info on this plane would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Ron G :unworthy: :help:

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Hi Ron. 

ME699 was put into service on 15th March 1944. She was lost on 5th July 1944 at St Leo d Esserent. She was a Mk1 built by Metropolitan Vickers ltd. 

She flew with 44 Sqdn and carried code KM-T. 

Sgt NC Jackson, flight engineer was awarded the Victoria cross on 26/10/45 for action on 26/27 April 1944. He was aboard ME669. 

ME669 was first in service in Feb 1944. She was lost on 27 April 1944 in Schweinfurt. She carried code ZN-O. 106 Sqdn was based in Metheringham. ME669 was also built by Metropolitan Vickers and was a Mk1.  

Hope this helps  

 

 

 

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23 minutes ago, NigelR32 said:

Hi Ron. 

ME699 was put into service on 15th March 1944. She was lost on 5th July 1944 at St Leo d Esserent. She was a Mk1 built by Metropolitan Vickers ltd. 

She flew with 44 Sqdn and carried code KM-T. 

Sgt NC Jackson, flight engineer was awarded the Victoria cross on 26/10/45 for action on 26/27 April 1944. He was aboard ME669. 

ME669 was first in service in Feb 1944. She was lost on 27 April 1944 in Schweinfurt. She carried code ZN-O. 106 Sqdn was based in Metheringham. ME669 was also built by Metropolitan Vickers and was a Mk1.  

Hope this helps  

 

 

 

Thanks Nige 

 Which parts in the kit do I use? By that I mean which nose piece? And any other parts needed to make ME669

Ron G 

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I can’t answer that for sure Ron. I’m pretty sure it would have had the larger nose blister and needle props. Under belly Radar is up to you? They were fitted randomly apparently. 

If I were you I’d build it as per the instructions as a B.1 but with the larger nose blister. It appears that by 1944 all Lancs had the larger blister?  

 

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