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HK Models 1/32 Lancaster Hints, Tweaks and Tips,


NigelR32

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Cranky

These are the details I have for ME648 . . .  examination date April 1944. Lancaster Mk.1

Bomb-aimer blister, large with the '00' in the perspex

Cockpit blister both sides

Paddles bladed propellers

New style pitot head

No Rebecca aerial and No fuselage windows

H2S fitted 

Window chute fitted

I hope this helps

David

 

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1 hour ago, NigelR32 said:

Hi Ron. 

ME699 was put into service on 15th March 1944. She was lost on 5th July 1944 at St Leo d Esserent. She was a Mk1 built by Metropolitan Vickers ltd. 

She flew with 44 Sqdn and carried code KM-T. 

Sgt NC Jackson, flight engineer was awarded the Victoria cross on 26/10/45 for action on 26/27 April 1944. He was aboard ME669. 

ME669 was first in service in Feb 1944. She was lost on 27 April 1944 in Schweinfurt. She carried code ZN-O. 106 Sqdn was based in Metheringham. ME669 was also built by Metropolitan Vickers and was a Mk1.  

Hope this helps  

 

 

 

Rather strange reply because you have given two lots of information for ME699 . . .  KM-T and ZN-O  ???????

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1 hour ago, FME erk said:

Rather strange reply because you have given two lots of information for ME699 . . .  KM-T and ZN-O  ???????

No.. I gave information for ME699 because thats what I was asked for. I also gave infornation for ME669 because that was the sqdn code given.

KM-T is correct for 699, ZN-O is correct for 669

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Dry fitting going on. This is BIG! The 1:48 Mitchell as reference. With the wings some additional work had be done with parts K34 and L34. Dry fitting and sanding was needed. K34 went ok but with L34 something went a wrong when gluing. The part was about 1mm too much out and that happened during the gluing process, bugger 7B81207A-963B-4FB6-8A46-DC0AF19AF824.thumb.jpeg.b7b7e01b13cb47b01570a943a987ada0.jpeg:0(. Well, had to make a fix with evergreen. 

48DB8867-F68C-4FB4-B791-7F69C608F88E.jpeg

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11 hours ago, yknu said:

Dry fitting going on. This is BIG! The 1:48 Mitchell as reference. With the wings some additional work had be done with parts K34 and L34. Dry fitting and sanding was needed. K34 went ok but with L34 something went a wrong when gluing. The part was about 1mm too much out and that happened during the gluing process, bugger 7B81207A-963B-4FB6-8A46-DC0AF19AF824.thumb.jpeg.b7b7e01b13cb47b01570a943a987ada0.jpeg:0(. Well, had to make a fix with evergreen. 

 

Hi Yrjo

I think you meant to say K4?

Would you like to share how you did such a neat riveting jogb please? I was going to try rubbing pigments over a nearby area, then putting sellotape over it and peeling it off, leaving the rivet pattern on the tape. The tape could then be placed over the area to be riveted and punched trough with a point to make the rivet pattern in the correct pitch and in a straight line.

The job you have done is some of the best riveting I've ever seen!!

 

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1 hour ago, NigelR32 said:

Hi Yrjo

I think you meant to say K4?

Would you like to share how you did such a neat riveting jogb please? I was going to try rubbing pigments over a nearby area, then putting sellotape over it and peeling it off, leaving the rivet pattern on the tape. The tape could then be placed over the area to be riveted and punched trough with a point to make the rivet pattern in the correct pitch and in a straight line.

The job you have done is some of the best riveting I've ever seen!!

 

Thanx Nige, and sorry about the wrong part numbering -K4 and L4 are the right ones. As I have made the HKM B-17G, where I needed to return a lot of rivets and scribe a lot of lines. I use trumpeter riveting too, which is crap but has two disks, where the spacing is useful (at some point I will buy Rosie the Riveter). I filled the lines and rivets that I needed to remove with self made putty. Best comes from evergreen and Tamiya Gree - thin or extra glue. I used the rest of one old glue bottle. I let it dry several days. the issue I found was that there was some air bubbles and not all rivet holes were not filled. My guessing is that because I used my other putty made from Dragon sprue, that might have included some other chemicals. When putty was dried, with brand new chisel blades I start the level the area. This is the most tricky part to level the area so that you do no make a dint. When I was happy with the surface, I painted the area with heavily diluted Tamiya surfacer. When that had dried, I draw with pencil the lines I needed to make. Then with the very thin flexible steel ruler I started to make rivets and scribe the lines. I like Tamiya scribe as it removes the plastic. If something went wrong, quite often the thin glue was enough to melt the holes. I ended up making the rivets by hand using the disks only. Warning! I do not know yet, how good these are before I paint whole wing with primer. I like to use Mr. Primer surfacer 1000 B-524 in spray bottle. Is this any help?

IMG_1185.jpg

IMG_1186.jpg

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Hi Yrjo,

Thanks for your mega reply. I was just wondering how you did the riveting. I am Nige, the guy who started this thread and have put up a video all about sprue goo. 

With sprue goo, I always use the original plastic if I’m going to scribe or rivet as a mix of plastics can be softer or harder than the surrounding material and can make the scribing or riveting tool wander off. 

I have left my holes filled for nearly a week before rubbing them down. I’m ready to test with primer now and then get rivetting. 

Thanks again for your reply. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello guys..

I finally got my wing corrections sorted, just like Yrjo.

It's not easy, and it doesnt help that it's all floppy and bendy. i put sanding sponges inside the wing, but it still feels like the plastic could crack whilst rivetting??

Upper repair, where dinghy hatch used to be..

IMG_4934.thumb.JPG.0ead115fd4eafabb2c0a436acbf65677.JPG

 

Underside where incorrect landing lights were.

IMG_4933.thumb.JPG.a1e21a0433c189ad0e7f325bd2442864.JPG

Not the neatest job in the world, particularly the underside, but it's done now.

So, how did I do it?

I scribed using a Trumpeter scriber first up against a taped in position rule. Then I chased the lines out with a Tamiya (Olfa) scriber.

I used a 0.75 pitch rivetting wheel to mark out the rivets then used a pin to deepen the holes and round them up. All in all, pretty time consuming and to be honest,quite boring!!

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32 minutes ago, NigelR32 said:

Hello guys..

I finally got my wing corrections sorted, just like Yrjo.

It's not easy, and it doesnt help that it's all floppy and bendy. i put sanding sponges inside the wing, but it still feels like the plastic could crack whilst rivetting??

Upper repair, where dinghy hatch used to be..

IMG_4934.thumb.JPG.0ead115fd4eafabb2c0a436acbf65677.JPG

 

Underside where incorrect landing lights were.

IMG_4933.thumb.JPG.a1e21a0433c189ad0e7f325bd2442864.JPG

Not the neatest job in the world, particularly the underside, but it's done now.

So, how did I do it?

I scribed using a Trumpeter scriber first up against a taped in position rule. Then I chased the lines out with a Tamiya (Olfa) scriber.

I used a 0.75 pitch rivetting wheel to mark out the rivets then used a pin to deepen the holes and round them up. All in all, pretty time consuming and to be honest,quite boring!!

 Nige, excellent work! :0)

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18 minutes ago, CrankyCrafstman said:

Nice work Nige 

 Now I have to do mine. :omg:

My only advice Ron is to use sprue goo made from HK sprue if youre extra fussy,like me. And the most important.. leave it for at least three days between every coat of SG, filler, paint or whatever. I must have filled some rivets at least four times, but they just kept coming back with shrinkage.

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Hey folks,

Regarding needle vs paddle blades.

Were Brit birds all built with needle blade props, or did they receive the paddle blade Hamiltons after a certain date?  If they did, my understanding is wrong. I always thought Canadian production got Hamiltons after a certain date (local supplier and all), and the British aircraft received them when required for maintenance. 

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3 hours ago, Clunkmeister said:

Hey folks,

Regarding needle vs paddle blades.

Were Brit birds all built with needle blade props, or did they receive the paddle blade Hamiltons after a certain date?  If they did, my understanding is wrong. I always thought Canadian production got Hamiltons after a certain date (local supplier and all), and the British aircraft received them when required for maintenance. 

Hey Ernie..

Good question.. From what I've gathered, it would seem that pretty much everything after mid 1943 had paddle props? I personally think it's more towards early '44, but you are correct.. they were upgraded in maintenance.

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2 hours ago, Clunkmeister said:

Gonna give Nige's seat and platform fix a try tonight. Mine's a postwar Lanc, so I expect the armor plate is gone, but it still needs lowering.

It's not my conversion Ernie.. Avro made them that way.:D

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Ha! And no going back for me, either. I ju st cut the bottom off the seat.

Nige, did you end up shortening the seat pan as well? 4.5mm was what I read. That’s a lot. And your seat looks spot on to me.

I’m gonna build the latticework for the pilots seat floor as well. The way I see it is that this are needs the love. It’s 100% visible when completed.

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1 minute ago, Clunkmeister said:

Ha! And no going back for me, either. I ju st cut the bottom off the seat.

Nige, did you end up shortening the seat pan as well? 4.5mm was what I read. That’s a lot. And your seat looks spot on to me.

I don't remember exactly now Ernie, but whatever I wrote is what I did. If you need more pics, let me know.

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5 minutes ago, NigelR32 said:

I don't remember exactly now Ernie, but whatever I wrote is what I did. If you need more pics, let me know.

I’d sure appreciate any you can provide, Nige. You’re obviously well read in the subject of A.V. Roe and Co., so any info you can offer, go for it. I’m a sponge...

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14 minutes ago, NigelR32 said:

Hey Ernie..

Good question.. From what I've gathered, it would seem that pretty much everything after mid 1943 had paddle props? I personally think it's more towards early '44, but you are correct.. they were upgraded in maintenance.

Interesting that. So all Hamilton props would have had to come by convoy from the USA. Pretty tenuous supply chain for such a critical assembly.

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