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NigelR32

HK Models 1/32 Lancaster Hints, Tweaks and Tips,

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Hello all. I'm sort of building PO-S as she is in the RAF Museum, and it's hard to miss the Rebecca aerials up front. Which the HKM Lanc doesn't supply, presumably modelling an earlier iteration. Does anyone know the dimensions? They don't look like a tough scratch build, or alternatively does anyone know a supplier? I've asked Master Models of Poland if they're interested! 

Mike

PS Stellar riveting and describe, Nigel. Have you masked the transparencies yet? 4 hours I won't see again! 

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On 3/5/2019 at 8:46 AM, ChaoticMike said:

Hello all. I'm sort of building PO-S as she is in the RAF Museum, and it's hard to miss the Rebecca aerials up front. Which the HKM Lanc doesn't supply, presumably modelling an earlier iteration. Does anyone know the dimensions? They don't look like a tough scratch build, or alternatively does anyone know a supplier? I've asked Master Models of Poland if they're interested! 

Mike

PS Stellar riveting and describe, Nigel. Have you masked the transparencies yet? 4 hours I won't see again! 

I have good news for you my friend.. have you not seen parts P49 and P53.. they are the aerials you're looking for. P57 and P58 are another option.

I have the DN Models mask set for the clear parts.. should make life a lot easier.

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On 3/5/2019 at 11:08 AM, ChaoticMike said:

D'oh! (shuffles off, muttering...

Ha ha ha...

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Just done a review of the new Eduard cockpit set for this kit.. have a look, see what you think??

 

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The Eduard does have the advantage over the Airscale in that I suspect it will be an easier upgrade. The Airscale is excellent, but fiddly, and the Engineers panel is tricky to paint (well, it was for me!). Horses for courses, really - the Eduard will likely get you a better pit than OOB more quickly /less effort than Airscale, but the 3D of the Airscale looks better to these eyes. Also easier to distress and blend in with the rest of the environment. Well, that's my £0.02...

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I got yesterday Eduard masks and steel belts. Those are much better than brass ones.  I am waiting HGW belts too. In this scale fabric looks better in my pow. Waiting resin wheels and bulged bomb doors. 

A6068D9E-D41F-4E3D-BFD8-7953CF10DC86.jpeg

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I love HGW and RB belts. Very little comes of my dungeon without them.

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11 hours ago, ChaoticMike said:

The Eduard does have the advantage over the Airscale in that I suspect it will be an easier upgrade. The Airscale is excellent, but fiddly, and the Engineers panel is tricky to paint (well, it was for me!). Horses for courses, really - the Eduard will likely get you a better pit than OOB more quickly /less effort than Airscale, but the 3D of the Airscale looks better to these eyes. Also easier to distress and blend in with the rest of the environment. Well, that's my £0.02...

Well, any of us building a Mk.X will have issues with either set. The engineers panel is all wrong.

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On 3/9/2019 at 11:26 AM, ChaoticMike said:

The Eduard does have the advantage over the Airscale in that I suspect it will be an easier upgrade. The Airscale is excellent, but fiddly, and the Engineers panel is tricky to paint (well, it was for me!). Horses for courses, really - the Eduard will likely get you a better pit than OOB more quickly /less effort than Airscale, but the 3D of the Airscale looks better to these eyes. Also easier to distress and blend in with the rest of the environment. Well, that's my £0.02...

You are right. The challenge I have is that in the old BW pictures from the cockpit the panels actually look very matt or even dark grayish. Any comment? 

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16 hours ago, Clunkmeister said:

Well, any of us building a Mk.X will have issues with either set. The engineers panel is all wrong.

This is my issue with Eduard of late. They just seem to enhance what the kit gives you rather than correct it. In the old days they used to correct stuff, like on the Trumpy F105 cockpit floor height and removing the blocks in the Me262 wheel bays.

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Over on Britmodeller, an observation has been made that the paddle-blade propellor blades are keyed back to front. Does anyone else agree? I have no opinion, because I have yet to approach that part of the build and the instructions are for needle props (that I'm not planning on using for my build)..

Mike

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I'm no expert, but I don't agree. Here are the two side by side.

DSCN2158-1.jpg

Assuming that the pointed props are correct, the shank of the prop on the trailing edge is longer than that of the leading edge. That is also the case if the paddle blades are installed the same way.

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I've taken a look, and I'm no wiser. They *look* wrong, like the aerofoil section for the blade is back to front. If I adopted the proposed 'fix' (and I'm by no means sure it is necessary) then the perceived angle of attack and twist to the propellor looks better to my eye but then the shank difference noted by Bill_S would be reversed. 

I wish I hadn't read the initial post expressing doubt over the blades' orientation.. . It's going to nag, now! 

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