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7 hours ago, HubertB said:

High on my list would be designing-then-printing an accurate windscreen and canopy for the EE Lightning

Ohhh, I could be a happy guinea pig for one of those. 

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Okay, here's my bench as it sits currently.  The dust is from the 1/4 Fokker D.VII I am currently building on it.

Almost finished, only the engine cowling and the coolant pipe from the engine up to the wing radiator are still missing. I hardly dare to write - the Albatros was started to be built sometime in 200

Meet the Fokkers    

Posted Images

For the time being, I am the guinea pig... So far, I have failed my print runs twice, with the resin sticking to the vat rather than the building plate.

Opening rant: why are printer settings not more clearly indicated by resin manufacturers :wtf:? It seems like this is a more closely guarded secret than the code for the safe at Fort Knox :nuke: ... 

Oh well, trial #3 tomorrow, with tweaked printer settings :unsure:

Hubert

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1 hour ago, HubertB said:

For the time being, I am the guinea pig... So far, I have failed my print runs twice, with the resin sticking to the vat rather than the building plate.

Opening rant: why are printer settings not more clearly indicated by resin manufacturers :wtf:? It seems like this is a more closely guarded secret than the code for the safe at Fort Knox :nuke: ... 

Oh well, trial #3 tomorrow, with tweaked printer settings :unsure:

Hubert

Hub;

Have you no knowledge of how teh computor industry works?

lol

They put the stuff out and wait for you to fix it.

Pretty much since day one.

The diff between odd Corels and even Corel numbers tells the story!

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Usually, getting forced out of your home by weather is a very, very bad thing.  But my wife suggested I grab something and take it with me to the hotel, so I did.

With my F-105F and most all of my other builds on my bench involve resin, and plenty of it, and knowing that my wife would would be less than thrilled with resin dust all over her stuff, I looked for something with NO resin.   My eyes settled upon this SOD build that had stalled out a bunch of years back for lack of enthusiasm.

I’m generally not a Tamiya builder. For some reason, I find them very Ho Hum, if that makes any sense. Like a cut and paste exercise to me.  But, for the room on the road, why not.  Joy likes the Bent Wing Butcher Bird, so I grabbed a long SODded Birdcage. 

Back then, I was doing a semi buddy build with Smitty, and he just sailed right past me to completion while I jumped into a Helldiver project. 

The idea was to do F4U-1 “Reluctant Dragon” White 1 as flown by 1st Lt. Alonzo B. Treffer of VMF-213 in 1943 at Guadalcanal.

Montex makes a mask and decal set for it, and after verifying that the aircraft actually did exist as advertised and not just in the fertile minds of the Montex boys, I had long ago decided that this well used early 2 color bird was the one to do. I’ve yet to find pictures of it, but plenty of other evidence exists, so onward we go.

OK, in deference toJohn and others who love Tamiya, I get it. This kit’s a gem.  I’m not going to do a WIP.  “Oh YAY, another Corsair, yadda yadda yadda”, But RFI pics will be posted. 

We’re back home today, so onward with the Thud, but this one is close now, so I’ll power through to finish. 

Corsairs on Guadalcanal in 1943 were VERY well used, so lots of chipping will occur here...

 

EF43C075-89CD-4309-87ED-9D7AE45FAA07.jpeg

4566DB01-5B5A-4A85-AF4A-AFFFC9A9257D.jpeg

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One question on the Birdcage.  The Montex pics make it look like the quarter windows were painted over like the Brits did with theirs.

Yes?

No?

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1 hour ago, Clunkmeister said:

One question on the Birdcage.  The Montex pics make it look like the quarter windows were painted over like the Brits did with theirs.

Yes?

No?

Ernie, when I did Reluctant Dragon, I used the Monokio decals for the markings. They included a pic of the plane but the angle doesn't show the quarter windows. 

I left them clear on mine. 

IMG_20161231_183100-600x450.jpg

 

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6 hours ago, krow113 said:

Hub;

Have you no knowledge of how teh computor industry works?

lol

They put the stuff out and wait for you to fix it.

Pretty much since day one.

The diff between odd Corels and even Corel numbers tells the story!

In this case, it is like the resin manufacturers want the printing process to be a nerdy thing « only for the initiated » :secret:

To illustrate my point: most resins for DLP printers have a in-process curing time of 6 to 8 seconds for a 50 microns layer.

in the case of the resin that is supposed to produce cristal-clear, non-yellowing parts (Phrozen SC-801 - not cheap at a minimum of 120 € for one liter) I finally found-out that the time setting was supposed to be ... 20 seconds ! You would think that they would write something down on the label :wallbash: !

Oh well, you live and learn as they say :ph34r:

Hubert

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10 hours ago, Clunkmeister said:

One question on the Birdcage.  The Montex pics make it look like the quarter windows were painted over like the Brits did with theirs.

Yes?

No?

nope glass was there unpainted just like these VMF 213 Corsairs 

Vought-F4U-1-Corsair-VMF-213-White-18-named-Bubbles-over-Guadalcanal-1943-01.thumb.jpg.746908cfe889e2bdcd965e3a2bbe1fa0.jpg

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3D-printed transparencies: success at last !

This is the windscreen for the Mistery Ship. The part is 0,5 mm thick.

It was printed (4 at the same time) on my printer with the following settings:

- Phrozen SC-801 clear resin

- 30 microns layer thickness

- 120 seconds exposure time for the base (the one adhering to the platform), then 15 seconds per layer.

After the print, rapid wash with ethanol, blow dry, then 15' curing in a 40W UV curing machine. Whilst perfectly clear when just printed, the resin develops a slight frost when curing.

The following photos show the result. From left to right:

1. Windscreen as printed and cured

2. The same, but then Future (Johnson Klir in fact) applied with a brush

3. The windscreen, after some micromesh sanding on the outside (the inside was just not accessible as I wanted to keep the support for demonstration purposes), and subsequent application of Future with a brush.

4. Finally, the winscreen without any micromesh sanding, but with some Pebeo varnish (a Fine arts varnish for paintings) applied with a brush.

i-tjzWxvW-338x450.jpg

 

i-7MkWHRn-338x450.jpg

 

Conclusions:

1) Micromeshing, and probably polishing the part after micro-sanding, is needed to restore full transparency. This is advised by Phrozen in their explanations

2) The Pebeo varnish wins hands down in terms of restoring transparency. It will also help to prevent yellowing of the resin over time. A much better result will also be obtained by airbrushing it, of course.

3) Above all : transparent parts can be printed and look like transparent parts. Yeahh ! :wine: :piliot: Now, the sky is the limit ;)

4) For this specific part and resin, I probably need to increase the thickness to 0.6 mm to get higher structural strength - but the Anycubic clear green was OK with 0.5 mm.

I hope this will be of interest for you guys.

Hubert

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Hubert, thanks for sharing the results. Knowing the difficulties folks have had with casting clear resin this may be a good alternative.

Now off to look at a 3D printer and everything that entails....

 

Carl

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52 minutes ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Hubert, thanks for sharing the results. Knowing the difficulties folks have had with casting clear resin this may be a good alternative.

Now off to look at a 3D printer and everything that entails....

 

Carl

I have my Anycubic Photon available for a good price, if you’re interested. Nice printer, but with a risk of « wobble » on the Z-axis   when printing long (along the Z-axis) parts (problem cured with the Photon S which has two rails for the Z-axis). But the shipping may be a killer anyway ;) . 

You’ll find great deals on 3D printers on the US continent. For example here

https://www.3dprintersbay.com/anycubic-photon-s

or here :

https://ultimate3dprintingstore.com/collections/all-printers?view=
 

or Amazon, of course.

Mine is an Epax 1-N.

Epax, Anycubic, Phrozen, Elegoo are safe names to go to (you need a SLA or DLP printer with UV-curing for small details). 
 

For 3D design, I’d recommend Fusion 360 (free licence for hobbyists/private use). Be aware that 3D design softwares need fairly robust hardware to run smoothly.

Finally, the Anycubic washing/curing machine was a real bonus when going serious about regular prints.

And finally, yes, being able to print transparencies is great news. Casting clear resin is effectively a nightmarish process.

HTH

Hubert

 

 

 

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Hubert, we did exactly the same thing with the rear observation windows on the Lanc. When they got printed in clear, they were hazy and quite a bit thicker than yours.  But a whole bunch of hand polishing with plastic polish made them quite usable.

i'm happy to see that you're still working on the Mystery Ship.  The Travel Air Mystery Ship is my undisputed absolute all time favorite Golden Age racer ever.

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12 minutes ago, Clunkmeister said:

Hubert, we did exactly the same thing with the rear observation windows on the Lanc. When they got printed in clear, they were hazy and quite a bit thicker than yours.  But a whole bunch of hand polishing with plastic polish made them quite usable.

i'm happy to see that you're still working on the Mystery Ship.  The Travel Air Mystery Ship is my undisputed absolute all time favorite Golden Age racer ever.

Be careful what you ask for, Ernie ;) I may have some spare prints  asking for fresh Texan air ...

Hubert

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Meanwhile....work on the Schachtschiffe continues  Over a year ago I attached the brass barrels to the secondary armament of the battery deck.  They look a lot better than the plastic barrels, but they didn't fit inside the barbettes.  So, I had to do some boring with the Dremel.  The holes aren't perfect as they once were.   But it's pretty hard to see...  could just be my poor vision.  I also populated the wood deck with coal chutes and bollards.  The guns are fully position-able, though most will need a dab of CA to stay at a desired elevation.  Also, you may notice that the lower deck is toned down from the original...  it was just too bright for wood that has spent any time in the weather.

IMG_0235.JPG

IMG_0236.JPG

IMG_0237.JPG

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4 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Meanwhile....work on the Schachtschiffe continues

Looking great Gaz, there are too few ship builds here. I love to see, how you continue with the Kurfürst and maybe some day, I will have the power to start my Trumpeter Queen Elisabeth with all metal galore available. But before that, I will build a wooden ship.

Cheers Rob 

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4 hours ago, DocRob said:

Looking great Gaz, there are too few ship builds here. I love to see, how you continue with the Kurfürst and maybe some day, I will have the power to start my Trumpeter Queen Elisabeth with all metal galore available. But before that, I will build a wooden ship.

Cheers Rob 

Yes, one of these days I’ll finish Speedy, then start on ?Hood with all AM known to mankind

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