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OS2U Kingfisher by Kitty Hawk


BlrwestSiR
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Ok, so my bench is littered with more kits than it should be. What's one more in that case? :blink:

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This has been kicking around in the back of my head ever since I saw this pic in Dana Bell's book on the Kingfisher:

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Note the postwar style white only star and bar on the fuselage. On the tricolour scheme, it just looks cool. Plus there's the beat up main float. Only problem is I have no idea what the wing markings are like. After conversing with Dana, he wasn't sure about them either. Thankfully there's another pic in his book of a different Kingfisher with the same incorrect insignia.

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This one at least shows the underwing markings and they're the standard version. I might go with this one as a result. 

Carl

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Bring it on Carl. I have a weak spot for naval planes specially with floats and the Kingfisher is one of my favorites. Can't wait to see your magic working. Salt and sun are not only for surfers, but also great for weathering effects.

Cheers Rob 

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Ok, so thanks for everyone dropping in on this.  Especially Ernie, since it was his build that got me onto this floatplane jaunt. 

First bit of hacking/ sprue cutting has happened. I started on the wings by making sure I drilled out the right holes for the floats. 

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Then, seeing how small the locating pins are for mounting the floats, I added some styrene blocks inside the wing. This way I can use longer wire to replace the pins and get a stronger mount. I hope. 

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I'll do something similar with the main float but that'll have to wait until I have an idea of how much is visible inside it. 

Speaking of the main float, I trimmed that free from the sprues and like most, promptly broke the bracing wires between the struts. So I did the only logical thing and snipped the remnants off.

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Using their original attachment points as reference, I've drilled holes where they used to be and will replace them with wire. 

 

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Next up was the engine. The backside of the cylinder halves are covered in partial ejector pins. These were quickly removed with a set of sprue cutters.

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And glued together.

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The ignition ring is a very thin part. My first try at removing it from the sprue caused part of it to snap. So I decided to use a razor saw instead and cut it loose in two steps. 

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Using a razor saw, I cut the attachment points off with a short stub. I then trimmed the stub off with a sharp hobby knife. 

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This way I was able to get it free without any further breakages. After a quick cleanup,I glued it to the cylinder bank.

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The last bit for tonight is the exhaust assembly. They're each multiple parts but after a quick cleanup, they fit together fairly well.

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Provided you don't lose the part and have to scratch a replacement up.:(

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I had no idea there was a non-amphib kingfisher. 

Breaking those plastic 'wires' was a blessing in disguise.  Sooner or later you'd have looked at em and thought:  "They aren't to scale thickness"....  "but it's too late".....   "or is it??".....

 

See....  you saved yourself an entire mental argument with yourself!

 

Gaz

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10 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

IMG_20190217_224654-L.jpg

 

IMG_20190217_231337-L.jpg

 

A couple thoughts/suggestions.

1. I built a Pavla Kingfisher a few years ago, it had very weak attachment points for the wing floats, I did pin it, but I also used a mix of styrene and tamiya thin glue, it make the connections ultra strong. The mix glue is very thick, but makes plastic joints as strong as the plastic itself.

2. i agree that replacing the X with wire will look way better, just dont forget the little x patch that keeps the wires from vibrating against each other.

 

32228350033_2e8fff6dc4_b.jpg

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On 2/20/2019 at 12:56 AM, GazzaS said:

I had no idea there was a non-amphib kingfisher. 

Breaking those plastic 'wires' was a blessing in disguise.  Sooner or later you'd have looked at em and thought:  "They aren't to scale thickness"....  "but it's too late".....   "or is it??".....

 

See....  you saved yourself an entire mental argument with yourself!

 

Gaz

Actually, all the Kingfishers had removable floats. They could swap out for the landing gear depending on their base of operation. 

 

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On 2/20/2019 at 11:04 AM, 1to1scale said:

A couple thoughts/suggestions.

1. I built a Pavla Kingfisher a few years ago, it had very weak attachment points for the wing floats, I did pin it, but I also used a mix of styrene and tamiya thin glue, it make the connections ultra strong. The mix glue is very thick, but makes plastic joints as strong as the plastic itself.

2. i agree that replacing the X with wire will look way better, just dont forget the little x patch that keeps the wires from vibrating against each other.

 

32228350033_2e8fff6dc4_b.jpg

Thanks for sharing the pic. I was wondering what the adding would have looked like. 

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Ok, with the BF110 out of the way, it was time to start plugging away at the Kingfisher. I decided to fill in the pontoon struts with epoxy putty to give the wire some added strength.

IMG_20190224_230818-L.jpg

While it was still soft, I joined the halves together. This way, there wouldn't be any gaps from too much putty in the pylons. At least that's the idea.

IMG_20190224_232212-L.jpg

 

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