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American trucks......my soft spot......


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Yes, Danny, according to my sources 8.3 litres, 506.5 cubic inches, 660foot pounds of torque, @1300 RPM and 250 horses......  I always wanted to operate my engines, when hauling at their peak torque and fuel efficiency ,  one can go PAST the peak torque range on a higher RPM thus making the engine less efficient, so it was sort of good to have a look at the specs.... I know guys used to run the trucks to the 'pin' and burn way more fuel than some of us other guys, and were always running hot in a different gear...... 

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I got the chance to learn how to overtake road trains out in the Pilberra Western Australia. A CB is essential, you call quoting the Road train ID plate# as you approach from behind. it's not the lice

A bunch of years ago, a buddy of mine and I saw another buddy of ours sleeping over the steering wheel of his cabover.  He, not me, got the bright idea go play a trick on him and jack his cab.  S

Danny, NOT trying to Hi-jack your thread, but as we are talking trucks trailers and loads............... this is what happens when one has a very heavy load, going too fast, and ( speculative) possibl

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On 5/23/2020 at 12:50 AM, Jeff said:

Danny, it seems as though , here in Canada, that Cabovers are getting to be a very rare truck, most now her, at least are 'conventionals'  maybe partly because Cabovers a re a bitch to climb into if you are an old fat guy with a bad back, like most of the guys I know :rolleyes:, and they don't seem to build them much anymore either... 

Freightliner have a solution for that now, at least on the Argosy Cabover...

When you open the door, steps pivot out sideways from behind the lights for easy access!

IMG_20200525_184923.thumb.jpg.d36d5f37e85f6786f183a768af5fd326.jpg

S

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4 hours ago, Wumm said:

Freightliner have a solution for that now, at least on the Argosy Cabover...

When you open the door, steps pivot out sideways from behind the lights for easy access!

IMG_20200525_184923.thumb.jpg.d36d5f37e85f6786f183a768af5fd326.jpg

S

Now, THAT is cool..... I could even get my fat ass up there with that set up......  Wumm, cabovers ares till a big deal in Oz, I see, and I have never really heard why they went out of style here in Canada, and I have been around a LOT of trucks and drivers over the years and no on can answer that for us here in North America....  that door step is a slick idea, very cool !

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Nail polish remover works for the chrome removal as well.

And in trying all of the available chrome removers , I found that some times the plastic weakened with too much time in the soutuons.

Good start!

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Guest DannyVM

Hi guy's,

for some day's now i'm still battling the process of removing chrome from the plastic.:wallbash:

It start's to get really annoying and to be honest i have no solution anymore to remove that bloody chrome from the plastic.:censored::spam::tank:

I've tried all sort's of products. Bleach, Bleach gel, special plastic paint remover, Brake fluid and oven-cleaner. Each part was soaked for multiple hours into the fluid and washed with soap and warm water, and still i can't get rid of all the chrome.:angry: What else i can do????????????????????

GeGCVj8l.jpg

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I don't wanna used that silly chrome look, so i need to paint the part's myself, there's no other way. But that stupid chrome need's to be removed and obviously non of the products work. Sorry for the rant, but my patience is gone for now.:rtfm:

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Sad to hear that nothing worked out. Are there maybe different types of Chrome out there. These Americans used to be heavy handed with automotive chromium in these days ;). I tried removal twice on different kits and got the chrome removed easily with one minute of soaking and no further brushing. My kits were from Ebbro and I used the above mentioned degreaser / cleaner which I other ways use to get rid of the sooty black residue on the inside of my fireplace window.

Wish you luck mate.

Cheers Rob 

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Thank's Rob for your feedback.:thumbsup2:

For the moment i tried to soaked the part's into oven-cleaner mixed with some bleach, and let the part's in there for a night. 

I will see the result tomorrow, if thing's don't explode in the meanwhile:D

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Absolutely. The product doing the work is caustic soda. It’s fairly agressive, so most oven-cleaners now have a «no-caustic soda » formula.

If you can find caustic soda (soude caustique) in your DYI store, try it. Remember to wear gloves, a respiratory mask, and to dilute caustic soda in water, not the other way round. ( in short read the instructions on the bottle ;) )

HTH

Hubert

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Purple Power

 

61yDL6yMISL._AC_SY550_.jpg

 

Castrol Super Clean

81TjrWDAJeL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

Can't remember which worked better but both work pretty well. I put submerged my Mack R series parts in a small tote and left them for a few days..........OK, forgot them for a few days. Rinsed in warm water with and tooth brush. If there is any yellow film (clearcoat) left on the parts, repeat the cycle. The clear goes on before they chrome the parts to smooth the chrome but sacrifices underlying detail.

Here's some stripped parts.

Mack.thumb.png.3f86b53c4fb29c079b779657629ab37f.png

 

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1 hour ago, sluggo said:

Purple Power

 

61yDL6yMISL._AC_SY550_.jpg

 

Castrol Super Clean

81TjrWDAJeL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

Can't remember which worked better but both work pretty well. I put submerged my Mack R series parts in a small tote and left them for a few days..........OK, forgot them for a few days. Rinsed in warm water with and tooth brush. If there is any yellow film (clearcoat) left on the parts, repeat the cycle. The clear goes on before they chrome the parts to smooth the chrome but sacrifices underlying detail.

Here's some stripped parts.

Mack.thumb.png.3f86b53c4fb29c079b779657629ab37f.png

 

You made a Crummy ( Crew Cab ) R series Mack?? cool .... I hope you will do a WIP on this , it is interesting.....

jeff

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On 6/1/2020 at 6:35 PM, Ryan said:

There are some de tuned oven cleaners out there, you need the real bad stuff, like easy off.

Sadly not for sale here in Belgium, but i'm looking for some bad stuff at the moment.

On 6/1/2020 at 8:14 PM, HubertB said:

Absolutely. The product doing the work is caustic soda. It’s fairly agressive, so most oven-cleaners now have a «no-caustic soda » formula.

If you can find caustic soda (soude caustique) in your DYI store, try it. Remember to wear gloves, a respiratory mask, and to dilute caustic soda in water, not the other way round. ( in short read the instructions on the bottle ;) )

HTH

Hubert

Thank's for the tip Hubert.:thumbsup2: I got that stuff at home so i tested it immediately. Still nothing happens when i soaked the part's into the caustic soda. So i partial lightly sanded a piece of chromed sprue and dipped it into the caustic soda, and within minutes the chrome was stripped of the sanded part. But like you see in the photo, the part's that where untouched still have the chrome. Even when the part's where taken out after some hours, the chrome was still untouched.

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Strange to notice is the fact that one side of the sprue, facing down into the caustic soda was also completely stripped from chrome within minutes. And that happens with all part's i already tested.

McgT7Awl.jpg

The rim was previously tested into other fluids and still it's not completely stripped from the chrome.

On 6/1/2020 at 8:34 PM, Ryan said:

Your lungs will become chrome free also, so be careful.

I used this

6yxQtvpl.jpg

Still no result, but indeed a very strong smell like ammonia sort of stuff.

On 6/1/2020 at 9:00 PM, krow113 said:

Lightly sand the resistant pieces , allowing an opening for the solutions to do the work.

If you can find Simple Green that works too.

Great tip, thank's.:thumbsup2:

Like mentioned in Hubert's reply, i tried that and indeed that work's very good.

On 6/1/2020 at 9:19 PM, Jeff said:

I heard Simple Green works, have to give that one a go...........

Sorry Jeff, but that stuff isn't for sale her in Belgium. But thank's for the tip my friend.:thumbsup2:

On 6/1/2020 at 10:13 PM, Ryan said:

90% ISO might work too(?)

I tried that, with no results.

15 hours ago, sluggo said:

Can't remember which worked better but both work pretty well. I put submerged my Mack R series parts in a small tote and left them for a few days..........OK, forgot them for a few days. Rinsed in warm water with and tooth brush. If there is any yellow film (clearcoat) left on the parts, repeat the cycle. The clear goes on before they chrome the parts to smooth the chrome but sacrifices underlying detail.

Thank's for the tip.:thumbsup2:

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1 hour ago, Ryan said:

If the oven cleaner did not burn your skin it's probably too weak. :)

Been there.

Nope it didn't Ryan, so like you said..........

But i think i have found the solution, thank's to you and all of the nice guy's over here who gave me allot of feedback on this problem.:grouphug:

Look at these nice white beauty's.............:nuke:

IJpGJAcl.jpg

So what did i do..........first to say, my house didn't explode:tank:so far the chemical note..........:D

Hubert mentioned the Caustic soda, which i had at home. Krow113 told to lightly sand the chromed part's which i did with the help of a glass-fiber pen. After this was done i soaked the rims into the caustic soda and let it 15 minutes to rest. After 15 minutes all chrome was gone. There was still a yellow film onto the part's, so i diped them into the Strip magic paint remover and let them cure for 10 minutes. After that i washed the part's with 90% ISO because this is needed to wash the paint remover of. Then a bath into warm water and soap et voila...........done.

Thank's guy's for all your very helpful feedback, you guy's rock.:thumbsup2:

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I was close to saying I could take a set of wheels I have, strip them for you and send them to your project.... can't have this one on the shelf of doom....

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Guest DannyVM
21 minutes ago, Jeff said:

I was close to saying I could take a set of wheels I have, strip them for you and send them to your project.... can't have this one on the shelf of doom....

Well, finally it worked out my friend. Very appreciate your help mate, thank's allot.:thumbsup2:

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So the lesson seems that, when the plating is well done (i.e. a primer varnish and a -rather thick- homogeneous metallized plating) like in these old 70’s truck kits, the traditional cleaning methods will struggle ... You need to break through the surface tension on the metal plating, and for this you need micro-asperities, that will give a « bite » to the paint stripper. Just like champagne : you need micro defects in the cristal, or dust particles, for the bubbles to form ;) ...

Lesson stored for future use :thumbsup2:

Hubert

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Danny, the wheels look like these... on the Kenworth, those are 5 hole aluminum, from the late 50's to early '60's, the second pic of Doman's Freightliner, has a Dayton style wheel, all steel, very utilitarian, the Hayes Gravel truck has a standard 2 hole Budd rim, all steel, and the last pic of the Loiusville has the standard steel 5 hole Budd rims..... these are all the styles I mentioned to you earlier today..... the 5 hole and 2 hole Budd rims are available after market, and if you want a set of the Dayton style rims, they also are available aftermarket, and on those sites I passed on to you at the beginning of the thread....  I hope this is of some help...

Jeff

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