[Sourcing assorted fine coated and uncoated flexible wire for scratchbuilding]

Thanks but how would one know what a wire feels like without first handling it?

 

Here you'll find probably all you need: http://wires.co.uk

 

Remco

[Sourcing assorted fine coated and uncoated flexible wire for scratchbuilding]

Hello guys,

 

I need to find a good source of various fine wires for detailing a (Spitfire) cockpit. So far I have coated (insulated) 20 gauge stuff, too thick; and 0.015 lead free fly-tying wire (too thick for some of the detail). Also some solder, which is again too thick. I like the kind Roy Sutherland adds to his Spitfire cockpit set but have no idea where one could find a spool of it. Also would like super thin insulated wire (like 0.01-0.02 inch) thick but I don't find it at Radio Shack.

 

Secondly, does anyone have a hint for how to pick out the added wires with a brush after attaching them? I can't imagine how one would paint all around them without getting paint all over the surrounding green detail.

 

Thanks for any suggestions!

 

VW

[Tamiya Spitfire Mk IX kit - late/early?]

Hello guys,

 

I've been toiling along with 48th and 72nd kits but I'm back with a great 32nd scale kit. I just received my Tamiya Mk IX Spitfire and want to get aftermarket decals for it. Can anyone tell me which aftermarket decals are correct for the version in the box? (e.g. 1/48 Eduard Nk IXc's come in "early' and "late" version boxings). Would some of the Barracuda set's markings be correct for this kit? How about the three Eagle Edition sets or the Kits-World set?

 

http://barracudacals.com/proddetail.php?prod=BC32004

and

http://www.eagle-editions.com/eaglecals/32/spitfire-mk-ix-click-to-view-all-available-markings2012-10-08-13-53-58_.html

and

http://www.kitsworld.co.uk/index.php?RNZ=895057

 

Thanks!

 

[Thinning enamel for brush painting?]

Yes, it's the Academy. I think you're right - the latex paint is too thick.

[Thinning enamel for brush painting?]

Matt, Do you mean spraying the enamel or Vallejo or brushing, or dipping? The only whites I have are XF-2, MM Gloss White enamel and Gunze Lacquer Off-white. I use the kit intakes, with a seam which has been filled and sanded reasonably well but not perfectly.

[Thinning enamel for brush painting?]

I know, I did feel brave and now decided I might not be that brave after all. I need to find a better way here. It's for F-4B phantom intakes - the inside portion - not that visible (1:48 scale Academy). Matt, you dipped your F-16 intake into house paint right? Can you recommend it? What about spraying into the intakes and dipping into Future?

[Thinning enamel for brush painting?]

Hi guys,

I need to do a bit of tricky brush painting inside something and plan to use enamel for it works better than acrylics. It needs to be slow drying. My question is can one use odorless mineral spirits for thinning it? Does it even need thinning. It will be MM Gloss white.

Thanks!

 

[Congrats to Rick for achievement at NOVA IPMS]

Huge congrats to one of the staff, Rick from Maryland, who was awarded "Master Modeler in 1:48 and bigger aircraft" at the monthly NoVA IPMS meeting last night. In order to achieve this, one has to receive 1st place 5x in a given category at the monthly meetings where members vote for models on the tables.

[1:32 T-6 Texan]

Erik, correct, the rear canopy is very different on many, but also the main canopy. Look at the photos posted above - some have large frameless side windows and others have additional frames (3 per side). It gives the aircraft an entirely different look. Regarding the SAAF, yes, the Dayglo scheme was used operationally (as in training) for decades, right until 1995 when they were retired. The "warbirds" still flying are often painted to match that.

[Which magnifiers do you all use??]

None

[1:32 T-6 Texan]

I see frames on the pictures of Texans that are missing from the three canopy clear parts. The box art shows a Texan (TA 349) with the vertical frames missing from the side glazings. Apparently the clear parts are not included which contain all the vertical frames - one only gets the newer (AT-6G) style which are definitely not correct for most of not all the other 7 marking options...... That is bizarre as it gives the plane a very distinctly different look and will not build an accurate depiction of an AT-6C,D etc. It is hilarious how the instructions show all of them with the vertical frames!?

[Military aircraft spotting in Virginia]

Also don't miss the NASM Udvar-Hazy museum in Virginia, much bigger museum about 30-45 mins from the city. There you can see stuff like Space Shuttle Discovery, SR-71, Concorde, B-29 Enola Gay, Dornier Pfeil, F-4 Phantom, F-86, P-38, Hurricane, and more.

[1:32 T-6 Texan]

I believe the SAAF one is the other exception. That's what they looked like for years as trainers - until 1995 in fact. 7111 was the oldest Texan in SAAF service and I believe it still flies for the SAAF museum.

 

Beware that the decals -except the Bundesluftwaffe option- are all for warbirds, NOT operational aircraft.

I personally hope there will be aftermarket decals that cover the "plain Jane" USAF training aircraft and the operational aircraft in use in Korea.

And of course I hope for a Noorduyn Harvard Mk.IIB, as the Dutch Air Force used.

[1:32 T-6 Texan]

When will this be for sale and shipping? I will snag one if not two of these for sure!

[Messerschmitt 262A-1a (Smithsonian National Air & Space Museum)]

Excellent images.

 

The lighting has brought out a lot of not normally seen details like the weld beads etc... 

 

Thanks for posting

 

Matt

Yeah, and some museum dust 

[Tamiya tape at home - almost more important as toilet paper....]

Love this post. Thanks!

[Messerschmitt Bf109G-6 (Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum)]

These were a bit more tricky and I had to push the camera's capabilities but I think these may be useful for some of you.

 

 

 

 

 

[Messerschmitt 262A-1a (Smithsonian National Air & Space Museum)]

Building Tamiya's 262 now and went over to the National Air and Space Museum in Washington DC this morning to take some photos with my new camera. Perhaps some of you find some of these useful in determining panel lines etc.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Harder and Steenbeck: Colani Airbrush]

How would this one be better (or not?) than their Infinity or Evolution models?

[Airbrush Advice?]

I would recommend buying a genuine Iwata (e.g. the HP-CS). If you can afford it. It just lasts longer, works better. It's dual-action, which is something you really need. I started on this one and am glad I did. You can find it much cheaper at for example amazon.com than at art supply websites. Currently $140.99

[Tamiya P-51D]

Lovely work! I had a lot of fun with that kit too and yours came out a stunner.

[Oil dot filtering on smaller scales?]

Thanks, I'll try it on the 1/72 109E I'm working on (it's a challenge to work in that scale and do a good job!!)

[Oil dot filtering on smaller scales?]

For those of you doing oil dot filtering, would you say the technique would be useful for say 1/72 scale? 1/48? I only see it applied to 1/32 and larger armor scales.

[Bf109E-1 foot and hand grip on right fuselage?]

Thanks! I will go ahead and correct Eduard's mistake then.

[1/32 Revell Bf109G-6 @ Sprue Bros!]

Tower Hobbies has a better deal. I got two for $23.99 ea and Free Shipping with a coupon code.