Wouter
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Posts posted by Wouter
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I got the Mr.Paint Basic White and RAL Flourescent Red yesterday.
To be honest I'm not very impressed: Despite shaking the bottles for several minutes, and agitating them with a dropper before airbrushing, they are so thin that the white is like spraying milk. Pretty much no depth of pigment even over white primer. The red is spot-on in terms of colour, but again it would take litres of the stuff to finish my 1:12 scale F1 car. I've used about half a bottle per colour on a test piece, and they are still nowhere near solid colours. Also noticed this morning a slightly textured finish as if they have attacked the plastic in places.
I've sent a message to them asking for advice, but I doubt I will use them again, certainly not on this MP4/6 model.
Hi,
can't help on the attacking plastic thing, it's a pretty aggressive paint. If you sprayed directly on the plastic this can happen. But i guess you used a primer. If you used an acrylic you can get issues with Mr paint. Found out the hard way with Vallejo primer and MR. paint on top... cracks all the way. I know use Gunze surfacer 1200/1500. No issues with that.
About covarage, your right. Getting an even coat on a light base will take ages and a lot of paint. My advice would be to prime with a dark color grey or black and then build up your topcoat. But the lighter colors do take time to build up, so your mileage my vary.
Hope this helps.
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That's cool Jeroen, you owe Jim a big one I guess. I was wondering how you acquire those original bits and pieces for you displays.
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Happy birthday James!
Cheers,
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Hi Cees,
another way to represent the fabric is cutting small masks from Tamiya tape for the parts where no ribbing is supposed to be. The lower parts if you will. Place those masks and you are left with the ribbing parts uncovered. Now spray or paint some Mr. surfacer 500 where the ribs are. Build op in several layers. After drying remove the tape and blend the ribbing with some careful sanding. When done right, it should be more to scale then using actual tape.
About the rivetting, i'm certainly not an expert and have failed many times. But what works for me is taping a piece of dymo tape on the model and use that as a guide.
Cheers, Wouter
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Really very nice models Doug! Have you decided what your next build is going to be?
I love the WWI aircraft and I hope to build one of those WNW kits some time, but I have already so may other project waiting in line. I made a start with ZM Ho229 (waiting for some stuff for my Me410) and it sure is a nice kit to build, the best since I started modelling again a few years ago. It is really as if your building a miniature version of the real thing.
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Very nice, that is an eye-catcher for sure! It's interesting to see how the aircraft evolved during the war from this example to the many G-6 and G10/14's build's we see here.
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Wow, that looks great Marcel!
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Thanks,
I thought about that but I will probably chicken out from that exercise. I have insufficient information regarding the rivetting lines from the
Manchester/Lancaster. Apart from that the rivets on the fuselage are not flush but round headed. The only possible way would be to
skin the model with lithoplate or some other material as Peter from Airscale has been doing.
Cees
You could use these for rivetting: http://hgwmodels.cz/en/132-scale/320-free-lines-positive-rivets-132-321000.html
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Thanks gents for checking in, glad you like it so far!
Another update, this time it was masking time. Not my favourite part, but hey, pat of the build right. For the particular example I'm building are no decals available so I had to resort to paint masks. Though next time I'll think I will be using decals again. Maybe some wet transfer stuff from HGW.
Anyway, they result is convincing enough for me. I have to do some touch up here and there. Especially the horizontal beam over the yellow band. The black part is to thin, but touching will be pretty straight forward.
I'm waiting on some free line mask from Uschi for the walk/no walk lines. After those have been painted the model gets a gloss coat and regular decals for the small parts will be applied. In the mean time I will work on smaller details like the remote rearward firing guns and landing gear.
I'm really enjoying this part of the build. Seeing the model come to life is very rewarding. Can't wait to remove those paint masks from the cockpit!
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Very nice build.
That's the problem with Luftwaffe 46, so many interesting types but as they have not flown operationally the liveries are limited.
Cees
I would say the liveries are unlimited, let your creativity flow freely!
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Not sure how I missed this, awesome build Jeroen! Enjoying it so far.
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Very nice Doug, I've started this build to, but it will have to wait for the moment. Sorry Jeroen, but mine will be in wood, just gotta try those wood decals form Uschi.
Doug, I would love to see some more pictures from the other models you have there. Really clean builds and nice use of colors!
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Thanks, Mr Paint is fabulous
I'll second that!
Looking mighty good Mish, you're on the home stretch now.
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Thanks guys!
In the end I redid the RLM74 several times and now I'm a happy man again. I did some research on the web on the RLM74 colour. The odd thing is, almost every colour swatch I see says it's a a grey bleu-ish tint. But almost every scale model I found on the web, in this scheme, have a more green tint...
Anyway, I found the combination I was looking for. The first picture is not the best lighting but gives a nice overview of the camouflage patern.
You'll probably noticed I'm a big fan of the 'Mr.Paint' paint range. This stuff sprays beautiful and you can control every layer. Even better, it dries really quick. 5 minutes after applying you can already pick up the model, though careful. 5 minutes later you can mask the paint and it won't come off afterwards! The finish depends a little on the colour, as you can see the grey has a nice satin sheen on it, the green is more glossy. Below a detail shot from the picture above.
I mean, just look at that finish! Buy this stuff. And no, I don't have any stocks
Hmm, two more to wet your appetite
Cheers, Wouter
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Jup, the one with the blue band (see what I did there
) is the one I would build. Very cool subject to build and the possibilities are endless. I would love to build one under a He111 but that's something of a long term project... -
A few steps in the painting process. Started with RLM 76 on the underside and sides. Post shaded with RLM 65 and RAF sky (hard to see in the pictures).
Next step RLM 75 on the wings, stabalizer and top fuselage. This was then masked in the appropriate scheme with RLM 74.
For some variation I left the rudder aluminium as if it was hastely replaced. If have some reference from a few ME410's outfitted this way. Last but not least the yellow fuselage band was masked and painted.
To be honest, I'm not really satisfied. The painting step with the aluminium shades didn't do much for the current look and was a waist of time. Besides that I'm not really happy with the colors RLM75 and 74. I think they are a pretty good match with the real thing, but it turns out pretty dark on the model. There's little contrast. I'm thinking about to possibilities: repaint or adjust with weathering. What do you guys think? I'm open for suggestions.
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For the next step I was inspired by this picture:
I want to use the different shades of aluminium as the real base for my camouflage. For this step I used Alclad II Duraluminium (ALC 102), Mr. paint White aluminium (MRP-9), Anodized aluminium (MRP-81) and Dark aluminium (MRP-146). The colors were sprayed on the the panels allowing the black base to shine through and thus creating a form of pre-shading. The result looks pretty harrowing, but this is just a step in the path to a vibrant, and hopefully subtle, paint job.
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Ctrl C/Ctrl V from my post on LSP.
Black base with Mr Paint Fine surface primer (MRP-85). I've used a entire 60ml bottle for this model!
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Beautiful build Wouter! Stunning work so far. May I ask how you glued those parts to the clear pieces without any fogging taking place?
Thanks
Tom
Tom, regarding the canopy, yes I did use CA but only the smallest amount possible. Just a tiny drop of thin CA on the end of a needle or toothpick and then let it flow around the joint. With the part (say a handle) in place, I then used some epoxy on the attachment points and let that dry overnight. Thus, the CA holds the part in place, the epoxy provides the required strength. This way I didn't encounter any fogging issues.
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Hi all,
made an update on LSP. Figured I could post it here as well.
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That's awesome, but not something to build for the faint of heart...
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Yeah, progress! Inching closer to the painting stage. Canopy has been masked and the model got a coat of resin primer. I'm currently in the process of detecting and repairing surface damage, rescribing lost panel lines and rivets.
Sorry for the crappy pics, but I wanted to show the progress to you guys.
Cheers, Wouter
The radiotor flaps are a seriously pain in the ass to build. As a matter of speaking I've lost some PE parts again... grrr.
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Wow, the quality of most of these builds is staggering! I should visit it next year, looks better then ESM if you ask me.
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Damn! And you make it look so easy!
John
Second that.
I can't help my jaw dropping to the floor every time I see your paint jobs Ralph, simply amazing. Gonna try some of your methods on my Me410, but I don't have the illusion coming close to your level.
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1:32 Hasegawa Fw 190-D9
in 1945 Group Build
Posted
You could use imgur. As far as I know there's no picture limit.