sandbagger

Hi all, Best laid plans of men and mice !! Regards the fuselage louvred panels, it seems I fell foul of research fog. I've now been in contact with the author of the ‘Aeronaut Book’ - The Bulgarian Hunters: Roland D.II & D.III in WWI’ (by Mitko Mitkov). Mitko is somewhat of an authority on Bulgarian Roland D.II and D.III aircraft, so I bow to his knowledge. It seems only six Roland D.II aircraft, all built by Pfalz with Mercedes D.III engines, were supplied to Bulgaria. Photographs of the Roland aircraft being destroyed in accordance with the peace treaty clearly show five louvered panels on the left side of the D.II fuselages. Also, the aircraft I'm modelling shows the same panels on the fuselage right side. Therefore, I'll re-instate the panel I removed in error from the fuselage left side, Mike

Hi all, Forum 'IPS spam blocked by CleanTalk' is blocking me posting images. I've tried without using VPN but still blocked. This happened some time ago but eventually cleared after a few days, Mike

Hi all, The forward sides of the fuselage and engine access panels have louvres intended to aid cooling of the engine bay area. These louvres are printed on rectangular panels which are too thick. Possibly due to the model being upscaled from the 1:72nd or 1:48th scale models. It seems from photographs and drawings that the amount and positioning of these cooling louvres were different between Pfalz and LFG built aircraft and between the Mercedes D.III or Argus As.III powered aircraft. As always, research into WW1 aircraft usually results in inconclusive and differing information. Therefore, the following is my personal findings and may not be totally accurate. Pfalz built, Mercedes powered aircraft: Five double louvres on the forward right side of the fuselage, as depicted on the model and not four, as shown on various colour profiles. Four double louvres on the forward, left side of the fuselage. Therefore, the lower, forward louvered panel on the model left fuselage half (for this particular model) should be removed entirely. Due to print errors I decided to also replace all of the louvres on the engine cowl panels. All louvres removed, thickness of panel reduced, panel/cowl fasteners reinstated, right side panel added and lower engine cowl rear edge scribed. All of the louvres will be added using Proper Plane RD-011 3D printed louvres, Mike

Hi all, The 3D printed control rods for the aileron and the tailplane support struts are printed to scale. Therefore, they are rather weak. I chose to replace them with Brass tube of 0.8 mm diameter for the aileron control rods, which were blackened. Also, flattened 0.7 mm diameter tube for the tailplanes support struts, Mike

Hi all, Supplied metal reinforcing rods pass through the wings/fuselage and the tailplanes. Entry holes are left at the wing tips and outer ends of the tailplanes. I used UV setting resin, which was applied to the holes, set then filed/sanded to blend with surrounding surfaces. A light coat of grey primer was airbrushed to check the smoothness of the filled holes, Mike

Hi all, The landing gear and engine have been sorted. The engine as expected was tricky to clean up after removing the support trees. It will be modified with ignition leads/plugs and pipes, although most of the engine is buried inside the fuselage and under the access panels. The landing gear struts were cleaned up, taking care to not flex and break them. Also the tops of the struts were sanded slightly to allow them to fully locate into their fuselage recesses Mike

Hi all, All of the parts were separated from their support trees using just single blade nippers (DSPIAE). The resin is tough so no breakages or damage was caused. The upper wing has been test fitted using the supplied 1.2 mm diameter metal rods. The fuselage halves and lower wings also test fitted. I did find that when using the supplied 1.2 mm diameter rods, the lower wing leading/trailing edges were not aligned to the fuselage wing roots. Therefore, I used 1.0 mm diameter rod, which gives a small amount of play to align the wing correctly to the fuselage wing roots. Similarly, the supplied 1.0 mm diameter rods for the tailplanes were loose in the 1.2 mm diameter locating holes in the tailplanes and fuselage. Therefore, I used instead 1.2 mm Brass tube. Mike

Hi all, I've today received my kit and initially I'm impressed. The kit was very well packaged with separate padded envelopes containing the parts. Instructions are now included in the kit, whereas before they needed to be downloaded. Also, all of the parts are now separately printed and bagged, so no longer all contained in a boxed print. There does not seem to be any surface imperfections or print striation lines. None of the parts were damaged in transit. The shipping charge covered importing into the UK so no customs charge added. As to how easily the parts can be separated from their support trees and then how fragile they may be will be the challenge, Mike

Hi all, I'll be building the 3D printed model of a Roland D.II scout by MDesign in Bulgaria. This particular aircraft is Roland D.II (Pfalz built), Serial No: 2895/16 of the 1st Aeroplane Detachment, Bulgarian Air Service during 1918. This aircraft was built under license by Pfalz and was marked with the later style of crosses on the wings, fuselage and rudder. The aircraft also carried a legend, forward from the fuselage crosses, which when translated into English read Prince Kyril. He was Kyril Heinrich Franz Ludwig Anton Karl Philipp, Prince of Preslav, Bulgaria, Saxe-Coburg and Gotha and Duke of Saxony and was the younger son of Bulgarian Tsar Ferdinand. However, he was not a WW1 pilot. The legend refers to the aircraft being intended for use in the defence of where he was born, which was Sofia on the 17 January 1895. Being 3D printed and a limited run kit, it should prove interesting if not challenging, Mike

Hi all, I've put this build on hold for two reasons. Others are building this aircraft and I'm following their builds. Secondly, I've ordered the 1:32nd scale LFG Roland D.II 3D printed model from MDesign Scale Model Studios. It's an aircraft not produced in 1:32nd scale and although a limited run should prove an interesting or challenging build. I also have the book Bulgarian Hunters by Mitko Mitkov as a reference. Once the kit has arrived I'll start the build, Mike

Hi all, The model is now complete and in the 'WNW and WW1 Ready for Inspection' thread. As usual, many thanks for your comment and encouragement during this build, Mike

Hi all, Here is the 'Wingnut Wings' Jeannin Stahltaube, Serial No: A.283/14 at Aldershof-Johannisthal aerodrome during 1915. The build thread is here: As usual, a fully detailed build log, in PDF format, can be downloaded from the 'build logs' page on my web site: https://mikesww1aircraftmodels.com/ Mike

Hi all, As my build of the Jeannin Stahltaube is nearly complete, I've started preparing for the next model. The Wingnut Wings RAF FE.2b, Serial No:A385 of No.100 Squadron, RFC operating from St. Inglevert, France during 1918 and flown by 2Lt L.G Taylor and 2Lt L.E LeFevre. Mike

Hi all, The tail is now fully rigged. Line is 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament, 0.4 mm diameter tube and Proper Plane turnbuckles (RD-005). Now it's onto the final few pieces (windscreen, vent pipe, exhaust pipe, propeller) to finish the model, Mike

Hi all, The control and restraining cables for the upper and underside rudders are now finished. Line is 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament, 0.4 mm diameter tube and Proper Plane turnbuckles (RD-005). Now it's onto the final rigging, which is the tail bracing wires, Mike

Hi all, The underside tail warp control lines and restraining cable are now finished. Now it's onto the rudder control and restraining cables, Mike

Hi all, The upper tail warp and restraining cables are rigged. A combination of 0.08 or 0.12 mm diameter mono-filament, blackened 0.4 or 0.5 mm tube. Turnbuckles are Proper Plane 1:32nd resin (RD-005). Wheels are also now fitted. Now it's time to rig the underside cables, Mike

Hi all, The wings have now been rigged. I've added the drags wires from the fuselage to the outer underside of the wings. Also the wing warp control cables. Finally, the wing outer bracing wires. A combination of 0.08 or 0.12 mm diameter mono-filament, blackened 0.4 or 0.5 mm tube. Turnbuckles are either Gaspatch 1:48th metal (Type C) or Proper Plane 1:32nd resin (RD-005). Now it's time to rig the tail, Mike

Hi all, With the wings and tail unit fitted, it's time for starting the rigging. The rigging anchors in the trailing edges of the tail (both sides) and the wings are photo-etch ‘HGW’ 1/32nd scale Spoke Eyelets (132129). The rigging on the landing gear, claw brake and wing flying/landing wires was fitted using 0.08 and 0.12 mm mono-filament with 0.4 mm and 0.5 mm blackened Brass tube. Mike

Hi all, Landing gear and cabane strut assemblies fitted, Mike

Hi all, The kit supplied turnbuckles for the top and bottom cabane strut assemblies appear to be over sized. I chose to replace them with Gaspatch metal 1:48th scale turnbuckles. I cut away the kit turnbuckles and sanded flat the edges of the mounting. Four holes of 0.3 mm diameter were drilled through the mounting edges. Lengths of 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament were used to secure the turnbuckles to the edges of the mountings. The top mounting was reinforced by adding 0.4 mm diameter Brass rod through the mounting and top of the cabane strut assembly. Doing this secured the turnbuckles as well as allowing them the move for self-alignment when rigging. I also added a pipe from the gravity fuel tank ti the fuselage. This was 0.2 mm diameter rod inserted into a hole, drilled into the pipe connection under the tank. A length of MFH 0.4 mm diameter flexible black tube (P-961) was secured to the protruding rod, Mike

Hi all, This aircraft had a type of 'turning' finish applied to the fuselage forward panels. Wingnut Wings hints and tips suggest base coating with Tamiya Chrome (X11). Then brush paint the patch outlines with Aluminium (X16). Although other modellers have used this method to great effect, I personally found it tricky to achieve a satisfactory effect. Instead, I base coated with Mr. Colour’ Super Metallic 2 (Super Iron 2 - SM203). I then brush painted the patches using Abteilung 502 Liquid Mask (ABT115). Then airbrushed with Mr. Colour’ Super Metallic 2 (Super Chrome Silver 2 - SM206). Once dry I rubbed off the mask patches to reveal the metal patch colour. Airbrushed with Tamiya Semi-Matte clear coat (X35) prior to weathering, Mike

Hi all, The figures for this model are painted. The figures are from Copper State Models: Standing German airman (F32-040), Gotha bomber German crew member N.2 (F32-010), German ground crewman N.1 (F32-012). Painted using Citadel water based and Tamiya acrylics. Mike

Hi all, I've applied subtle weathering to the fuselage, tail and wings. An application of 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt fine clay wash. Edges were highlighted using sponged on 'Tamiya' Weathering Master Set A (Mud). Oil/fuel stain to the lower, forward fuselage was sponged 'Tamiya' Weathering Master Set D (Oil Stain). The wheel tyres are light grey primer with sponged on 'Tamiya' Weathering Master Set A (Mud). The wheel spokes is airbrush 'Alclad' Steel (ALC-112), Mike