Matt_
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Posts posted by Matt_
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Andreas on LSP says the new fuselage is 'solid' moulding - i.e. not with the side panels that caused some hassle.....
That does mean the cowl should be more accurate than if it just had new side panels and gun deck.... let's see...
It's a bit of a disappointment that the large wing bulges are wrong shape at rear.... they apparently terminate in a full semi circular shape when it should in fact be more 'blunt' - if that makes sense...
Matt
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Nice work Andy. Captures the look well.
Matt
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As they say, a picture says a thousand words... so here's a picture of the Karl on its rail transport trucks with raised suspension and clearly discernible turn-buckles in place...
Matt -
Here are mixes for Tamiya...
Dull Roundel Red : 75% Flat Red (XF-7), 25% Red Brown (XF-64)Roundel Blue : 75% Flat Blue (XF-8), 25% Flat Black (XF-1)Roundel Yellow : 95% Flat Yellow (XF-3), 5% Flat Red (XF-7)and a variation:Dull Roundel Red - Mix of 75% flat Red (XF-7 ), 25% NATO Brown (XF-68)
Blue - Mix of 95% flat Blue (XF-8), 5% flat Black (XF-1)
Yellow - Flat Yellow (XF-3) with a tiny amount of flat Red (XF-7)Matt -
Whenever I have a similar query I try Google (no, I'm not going to lecture you on using Google
)The thing is every question like this appears to get answers from yes, no problem to no it'll destroy your model and everything between. I think the safest answer is to test what you are planning to do on scrap plastic or an old model.
My cautious answer would be that if the acrylic is fully cured (that may take days) and the enamel is applied in light coats, it should be fine. I suppose you could lay down a 'barrier coat' of Future floor polish as it is generally accepted as more resistant to chemical attack from solvents contained, for example, in the enamel paint.
It may be easier (in the long term) and safer to start experimenting with mixing the colours you need from acrylics - just a thought...
Matt
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Very nice.. Love the subtle mottling you've achieved....
Matt
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Excellent review.
I have to say that having seen the plastic in 'the flesh' I am much more impressed. I think it's because most photos in reviews are about 500% better than I can see. Not knocking close ups, but it's often worth remembering that the kit often looks better when you actually see it.
I may get one of these when they come down in price... quite fancy that NMF and white Canadian one...
Matt
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Thanks folks. I'd like to do "Gigi" a G-10 with the early style tail as my next 109 project. Waiting so see whether I can achieve this from the Revell G-10 boxing or by cross kitting their G-10 with their G-6 (you can't do it from the Hasegawa kits without surgery).
You could try to graft the 'short tail and rudder' from the Revell G-6 onto the Hasegawa tail. Those are all spare parts in the Revell G-6.
Matt
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Nice idea... but I very much doubt we'll see it take off except for very expensive structures.
Too many unsupported assumptions in the article... My favourite part is actually the one and only comment... that was my first question and it isn't even asked by the interviewer...
Matt
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Brilliant Iain!
I somehow missed that you'd put this over here as well...
Have you extracted all the things you've actually done to the kit from the epic thread over at LSP? It would make a great reference...
Must think about mine sometime...
Matt
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Wow, that's a pretty major undertaking...
How well moulded is the locomotive? Suffering from the same number of inappropriately located knock out pin marks (doesn't look like it)?
Matt
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A beauty indeed.
I have started building this machine and intended doing her as found (isn't she pictured at war's end with bent props and damaged radiator sitting under a derelict Italian bomber?) all bashed up...
Yours is a finish to aspire to..
Matt
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On the face of it, that seems pretty dumb logic....
Matt
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Well
Paint on... the Vallejo Model Colour bottles are referenced as being the correct RAL values for late war sand (7028), green (6011) and choccy brown (8017). But that green looks pretty bright (even after toning down a little)...?
However, this is just the start and I'm sure some of what I want to do (filters and fading and ....) will tone the green down and bring the colours into a slightly more harmonious state.... Anyone who wants to chip in with advice about technique is welcome - all new to me.Couple of other views...
Getting the Vallejo paint to behave nicely was an education..! I ended up with a mix of paint (which in the Model Colour bottles is very thick), Vallejo thinner which itself had been thinned 50/50 with water, and if that seemed too thick a few drops of Medea (Iwata) airbrush cleaner. Blowing air back through the brush and seeing how the bubbles formed in the paint cup was a good way of gauging thinness.Slight hassle is that various Vallejo paints seem to behave differently given the same thinning (for eg I know that some will mix with IPA, while others won't and turn to goo...!).It's sprayed quite roughly as I figured that finish would be a minor consideration at that (theoretical) stage of the war. The armour is a bit of relief in terms of not needing such an exacting finish as the aircraft.... I'm hoping the filters and weathering will be as much fun. I have a few of the True Earth range to try out...(www.true-earth.com/en-uk/index.html)All for now... back to my 109G-6..Matt -
Nigel
Not that I have any specific knowledge, but for such high profile and almost bespoke vehicles I'd have expected the highest level of finish... so I'd have thought all the primer would have been covered.. That is, however, just supposition. A little primer here and there would add some visual interest and that's what half of this is about..
Matt
PS cool score on the Dora...
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I have meant to buy this kit for a while, as you say it gets good reviews...
Look forward to progress..
Matt
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Rick
An alternative would be to use either:
1. Brass airfoil strut so you have a strong part without the weakness of a join or;
2. brass rod (for strength) with an airfoil shape built up around it.
I'm not sure, brass rod either end or not, that I'd trust white metal to holding up a whole 190 for years to come...
Useful soldering tips (pun intended) there Steve.. thanks
Matt
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I like the Horton, but that looks like it is going to be a real PIA to build!
Doug
Yeah... I think that's what Gotha said as well....
Matt
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Bit of a bugger there Rick...!
At least resin tends to break cleanly and fix back with near invisible join...
Matt
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I haven't got much from last year...
I don't think the Revell G-6 is good enough for that accolade...
If I had to choose it'd be the ZM He219 or Tamiya Corsair. My assessment though would be from a mere fondle of the 219 at a club meet and never seeing the Corsair in the flesh... Again the B-17 is a stunner, but not one I have or am likely to have in the near future...
Not really sure what I'm actually saying here...?
Matt
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Then I started laying down a late war sandy sort of colour... can't remember its proper name or RAL number...
It's very green looking (in real life as well as the photos)... I'm going to lighten and yellow it up a bit and put some more layers on... Then add some camo.... The mantlet is just sprayed with a little RLM 23 I had from painting the Bf109 walkways, again a thin airbrushed wash... then the sand over that... gives an interesting if not entirely authentic look...Barrel is a Master Models one as the kit offering was very poor.Matt-
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I've been building this for a while, but that isn't very interesting... no extra details etc... It's meant as a foil to the Revell 109G-6 I'm working on (still!).
All I've done is adjusted the wheels/suspension to depict the vehicle in the 'hull down' or crouched position.
So today I finally played with some black paint as a pre-shade sort of thing...
Just playing around seeing what I can do... it is a nice break from the rigour of trying to do a real scheme on the aircraft...Matt -
This from a post on LSP... not everyone goes there so I re-post it here. More excellent and fascinating WW1 footage.
http://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/1060008215
Matt
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Scheme one for me... though two comes a very close second...
Matt
Scaling up decals
in General Discussion
Posted
Hi Steve
I wouldn't have thought a straight 225% enlargement would have worked. There'd be too much 'fuzz' around the edges and the quality of some markings at 1/72 wouldn't be good enough to stand enlargement and they'd look a bit rough. That is only an opinion I may be wrong.
You'd be better off getting someone like Mal of Miracle Masks to do you a set of masks from the original decals...
Matt