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Pete Fleischmann

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Posts posted by Pete Fleischmann

  1. 2 minutes ago, shark64 said:

    I handle all props for actors and teach  actors how to handle weapons on movie sets. Glad u like  the build. 

    Ok now that is pretty cool.

    bet you have an opinion about Alec Baldwin-

    and no. I don’t like the build..

    I love this build!

     

    cheers

    Pete

    • Like 2
  2. 8 hours ago, Peterpools said:

    Pete

    Looks so good. How do you actually do the oil weathering and staining? Would like to give it a try myself.

    Hi Pete-

    I use good quality artists oils in tubes. Windsor and Newton are wonderful. I don’t have too many colors; just Payne’s grey, burnt sienna, Lamp black, and white.

    Paynes grey is typically where I start..adding others to the mix to get the color I want. Straight black is too harsh in my opinion.

    I thin them with mineral spirits on a plastic palette to a wash consistency, and apply them with a brush mostly to highlight the edges of raised detail or into recesses. It’s ok to be a little messy during this phase. I let the wash sit for about 10 minutes…maybe longer..until it starts to set up. You’ll know it’s beginning to set when the glossy sheen from the wash starts to dull. Then I’ll wipe back the wash with cotton buds, a dry brush..even a cotton rag.. You can blend the oils very easily into the base paint at this stage..feathering it out as your taste allows. If you’ve waited too long and a dry bud isn’t moving the wash, not to worry- just moisten a bud with mineral spirits and keep going.

    it’s important to have a gloss clear base coat down before you apply the wash. The base coat needs to chemically resist the mineral spirits solvent ; so a good acrylic gloss clear is in order. I typically use the MRP clear gloss, or Tamiya X22 thinned with Mr leveling thinner, or even Future. The gloss allows the wash to flow smoothly. If you oil wash over a clear flat it will still work; but the rough surface texture of a flat coat will trap the oil wash in the microscopic low spots of the clear flat finish and act as a filter- changing the color of your base coat.

    typically my weathering steps are:

    paint

    dry brush

    clear acrylic gloss

    (decal if required)

    Oil wash

    flat coat

     

    other media can be introduced as well as appropriate if needed. For this Eagles bay 5, I used an acrylic filter to adjust the color after the base coat. Any pigments would be applied after the flat coat.

     

    HTH

    Pete

    • Like 5
  3. The Israeli Baz bay 5 has this funky Frankenstein plate on the floor 

    IHYWRCC.jpg

    I cut out a blank from .020 sheet, and spent the afternoon laying down Archer rivets. Once dry, I shot it with Tamiya Rubber Black. To replicate the worn finish, I tapped some AK polished metal powder on a paper towel, and rubbed my finger on it, then gently dragged my finger across the raised detail.

    qyqhWNJ.jpg

    You’ll notice the recessed rivets on the floor filled with white water putty. These will be replaced with raised rivets.

    • Like 7
  4. Crazy story Martin- I remember when that jet went down, but never heard the final report. Interesting-

    I put an F-16 out of control when I was a young Lt doing much the same during a BFM engagement. Basically I assaulted the pitch rate limiter and roll rate limiter at the same time during an aggressive offensive reposition (which the jet didn’t like) and it departed. Luckily for me I had plenty of altitude to rock it out of the deep stall and recover.

    good times.

     

    cheers

    Pete

    • Like 2
    • Haha 1
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