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Posted
6 minutes ago, BlrwestSiR said:

The lower hull looks great. At least by using screws it should make it a bit easier to level the suspension. Annoying they don't give them to you. 

Thanks! Hopefully i can replicate this same look to upper hull also🙂

  • Like 2
Posted

Front suspension unit. There is interconnecting link between 1. and 2. wheel. Maybe it used to compensate track tension when 2. wheel hits bump thus 1. wheel creates more tension?

IMG_20241221_084040564.thumb.jpg.4b6be1f5f449f6116cddc09484a8d7be.jpg

Test fitting engine deck parts.

IMG_20241221_084140462_HDR.thumb.jpg.5c50eb04d26eac2da728b1ac424bea1f.jpgIMG_20241221_084125342.thumb.jpg.a66d27f166ddb61af480541ae564a43e.jpgIMG_20241221_084117135.thumb.jpg.169dbfe480df1ade8cfbc4e64cd0f0dd.jpg

  • Like 8
Posted

Your eye for detail and ability to apply realistic weathering and (dis)colouring is simply staggering.

Following this with great interest for when I (eventually) start to paint my own kit....

  • Thanks 1
Posted
17 minutes ago, Alan_G said:

Your eye for detail and ability to apply realistic weathering and (dis)colouring is simply staggering.

Following this with great interest for when I (eventually) start to paint my own kit....

Thank you for kind words 🙂. I will try to treat every piece and panel as separate item for weathering. Hopefully I can continue this soon. Merry Christmas to you🎅.

  • Like 2
Posted
6 minutes ago, Alan_G said:

That's a great way to make a track removable 👌

Or this way one can repair if track pin is damaged in box. There were few track pins which were seriously warped, lyckily not broken.

  • Like 3
Posted

To be honest, the top section of the tracks are hidden by the side skirts aren't they? Obviously someone with more knowledge can confirm for you what sag there should be.

Regardless, another topic for me to keep an eye on for when I get to do my kit.

  • Like 1
Posted
8 minutes ago, Alan_G said:

To be honest, the top section of the tracks are hidden by the side skirts aren't they? Obviously someone with more knowledge can confirm for you what sag there should be.

Regardless, another topic for me to keep an eye on for when I get to do my kit.

Yes. You are absolutely right. Top half will cover most of the tracks. So no need for adjustment.

  • Like 1
Posted

It may be too late now, but what plans do you have for the main gun? I bought an accurate replacement resin kit from a guy called Andy Meyers (Spectre4044 on eBay):

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?sid=spectre4044&_pgn=1&isRefine=true&_trksid=p2349624.m3561.l49496&fbclid=https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?sid=spectre4044&_pgn=1&isRefine=true&_trksid=p2349624.m3561.l49496&fbclid=IwAR2D5rXuEJTtaB9JMbM4M7idSNyIrKc6Pn3K8z7toRzceyP4SyGAQAm6XmE

The gun in question:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/114980627706?itmmeta=01JGE2YJJGAZG2G7WXMKBBJRXZ&hash=item1ac56124fa:g:ZPUAAOSwie5fQsVk

It really does look much better, but I guess it depends on how accurate you want to make your kit.

I also bought some of the other 1/16 accessories he offers.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I am making new "slat armor" to engine exhaust. Stock parts are too thick. I used brass sheet and tamiya plastic rod and super glue. This is not gonna be the most beautiful part. Pro builder would have used solder and brass  pipe + jig. But then again real pictures show that this part gets easily damaged anyway.

IMG_20250102_103213345.thumb.jpg.6b3c9a37e143a557f1b1eb9dd15f26ed.jpgIMG_20250102_103056556.thumb.jpg.f23bf1c426caa0de08d7eca6b81d78f6.jpgIMG_20250102_103037895.thumb.jpg.a55e890303a93495f5e8e8babe68f0d2.jpgIMG_20250102_095301153.thumb.jpg.b7003e8215eb254eaf3cc3c32d50cee0.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted

Wow!! 

The work that you continue to put into this kit is really pushing my own build to the top of my "kits to be done for 2025" list.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I should have asked sooner, but what colour are you using for the beige/sand? And is it airbrushed, or from a rattle can? For my own kit, I was planning to do it in the NATO colours as the thought of beige/sand was just too much trouble for me. But seeing how amazing yours looks, I am beginning to change my mind.

  • Like 2
Posted
1 minute ago, Alan_G said:

I should have asked sooner, but what colour are you using for the beige/sand? And is it airbrushed, or from a rattle can? For my own kit, I was planning to do it in the NATO colours as the thought of beige/sand was just too much trouble for me. But seeing how amazing yours looks, I am beginning to change my mind.

From a rattle can. For first i used TS-46 light sand. But this is quite expensive and only 100 ml net volume. I used one can to suspension arms and wheels. I calculated that i would buy 4-5 more of these😬. I noticed one automotive paint called maston camouflage ral 1001 beige ultra matt. It is almost same color. 95% people wouldn't know the difference if they saw colors side by side🧐. This cost much less and it is 400 ml net volume. Sprays better and do not smell as bad.

  • Like 3
Posted
Just now, FullArmor said:

I would recommed using MASTON PLASTIC primer with this product. It makes painting the main color easier.

Perfect timing! I was just about to add the cans to the basket - glad I waited a few seconds...

  • Haha 3

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