Meter rat Posted August 25 Posted August 25 (edited) First post on the site, so forgive me if it is a long one. I purchased a 1/16 Das Werk, Leopard 2A7V, and a Heng Long Leopard 2A6 chassis, with the intention of turning into an RC Model. I am hoping to install working lights, smoke and flash, recoil, HL TK7.1, working machine gun, ball bearings in the suspension, and wheels, with torsion bar suspension. First decision was to see if the HL hull could be used in its original configuration. The upper hull does fit, but some trimming would be needed. This would be incorrect, but a simple, working solution. The simplified HL, is not as well detailed as the Das Werk, and it also has incorrect suspension. The Heng Long lower hull will provide parts like return rollers, sprockets, motors, and track tension. Ball bearings were installed at the wheel stations. Brass and plastic tube was used to make a prototype suspension. 1.8mm spring wire was used. Edited August 25 by Meter rat Incomplete post. 4
Meter rat Posted August 25 Author Posted August 25 All this was proof of concept that it would work. Just using one bearing on the outside of the hull. felt a little flimsy, so a second bearing was installed on the inside. This gave the required support. Now a working system has been found. 14 Individual suspension arms have to be made. I now need to work out how to attach the main road wheels. This is the Heng Long Leopard hull being stripped of parts. I am hoping to adapt the track tensioners to give a workable design, so the idler wheels do not have to be removed. It also appears that the return rollers could be used. Finally I am investigating the installation of the motors. Lots of measurements will be required. This is the process of building the suspension arms. Second a piece of plastic is cut and fixed over the brass. Then a length of spring wire is bent at a right angle, and the brass tube slipped over it. A fixing point is made at the other end of the wire. The last part of this, is to cut off the kit wheel mount, and enlarge it to 4mm. A 4mm nut is glued inside to make a captive nut. Then the torsion bar is tack glued in place , ensuring everything is at the required angle, and the void filled with Miliput and allowed to dry over night. 2
Meter rat Posted August 25 Author Posted August 25 Finally. The holes in the wheels are enlarged, and a flange bearing, and plane bearing were fitted. All the threads were cleaned, and the inner wheels bolted on. This allows for removal for maintenance. This is how the model sits today. Now sitting on all 14 inner road wheels, which can now be removed for maintenance. 7
GusMac Posted August 25 Posted August 25 Innovative stuff, looking forward to seeing how it progresses. 1
Meter rat Posted September 8 Author Posted September 8 Further work on the lower chassis, in an effort to convert a Das Werk Leopard, 2A7v to Radio Control. This is for the return rollers and track tensioners. For some reason, Das Work have made the road wheels, sprockets, and idlers to rotate, but the return rollers are fixed. So I needed to ensure these could move. Below are the parts that have been used. The kit rollers and attachments, 3mm brass tube, and a 2mm bolt. First job is to drill a 3mm hole through the wheel mounting parts for the return rollers, and insert a sort length of 3mm brass tube. This was a tight interference fit into the hole. This allowed a 2mm bolt to be passed through the tube and screwed in to the roller. Whether this will be sufficiently strong remains to be determined. The fit of some of the parts is not as good as expected, and some parts required trimming. I am noticing some gaps in the photographs. 4
Meter rat Posted September 8 Author Posted September 8 Next, the model requires working track tensioners. I had to compromise between scale fidelity, and a working solution. First job was to analyse the construction of the real tank. This has a two part hydraulic system, where a ram pushes against the pivot of the idler wheel. Analysing what was in the kit the I decided to cut the tensioner in half. The hydraulic part was filed out so two bolts could be installed. These were set into plastic weld to give an impression to hold them securely. These were then fixed with Super glue, and the two half glued together. Into the part that pivots and holds the idler wheel a nut was glued, and the surrounding area filled with milliput and a hole drilled for the pivot. A hole needed drilling for the axel for the idlers and to gain access to the bolt. When all was dry the two halves were fixed together, and the idlers attached using bearings over the bolt used as a stub axel. This was all allowed to dry overnight, and the two pats fitted to the lower hull with small screws and a turned washer robbed from the scrap Heng Long Leopard 2 hull. An enlarged hole was made to allow this to centralise, and spread the load. 2
Meter rat Posted September 8 Author Posted September 8 It all comes together like this. Semi realistic and similar to the system used on the Leopard 1. It may not work, in which case a different system will need to be developed. Next problem is how to attach the drive sprockets. Last for this instalment. With a bit of weight on board the suspension seems quite compliant. 7
Meter rat Posted September 9 Author Posted September 9 Whilst waiting on paint for the lower hull. I worked on the rear panel. Not much to say as it has been built out of the box. I found the instructions a bit vague, and a lot of the parts had mould marks and lines. There also seems to be a lot of parts that are not necessary. Very detailed, but a lot is hidden. Some parts will be left off for now, as the RC system I will be using gives the ability to have working brake lights, indicators, taillights, and with some rewiring, working convoy lights. 4
FullArmor Posted Tuesday at 09:42 AM Posted Tuesday at 09:42 AM Have you already thought about what color the tank will be? What country's camo?
Meter rat Posted Tuesday at 06:58 PM Author Posted Tuesday at 06:58 PM 9 hours ago, FullArmor said: Have you already thought about what color the tank will be? What country's camo? Not really. Possibly use modellers license and do a modern Danish camouflage. It will go with my Leopard 1A5DK in UN white, and my proposed Leopard 1A5 Black Reconnaissance Unit. 1
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now