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DRUMS01

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Everything posted by DRUMS01

  1. Hi Bomber_County, Revival was the successor to the original Casadio kits produced in Italy in the sixties and seventies. Revival produced both builder kits and completed cars up until sometime around 2010. Within the builder side, they produced a low end kit that had plastic bodies and wheels while the high end version had pre-painted metal bodies and scale metal spoked wheels. If you look around you can still find some of them. The site, SCALEMATES.COM lists all of the variations and models of 1:20 Revival car models that were available at one time or the other. I do not know if anyone else purchased the manufacturing molds and rights or it anyone is still currently manufacturing them (?). DRUMS01
  2. All I can say is everybody has some wonderful and beautiful animals. I guess it's my turn to show our extended family to all of you. This is our AKC registered Australian Sheepdog, her name is Jenny. We named her after Jenny in Forrest Gump. Sometimes we call her Jean-naye-naye, other times a couple of our friends call her Jennifer. As long as you have a treat for her she will come to you regardless of the name you call her. This is a photo when she was very little: and one in her doggy teens, yes she has the two different colored eyes. She is an excellent herder of anything to include sheep, cows, people, cats, deer, squirrels, ducks, geese, raccoons, yes.... anything. She is very smart and can open doors, turn on and off lights, talk to you, etc. She is also very ornery. In this instance my wife, Becky, gave her some coffee, Jenny loves coffee. Jenny loves to go on rides in the truck any time of year. And here she is currently, a mature lady and with her friend, one of our cats named Sweet Pea: Sweet Pea is a very relaxed female calico who adopted us three years ago. She is a fantastic hunter of birds, moles, rabbit, chipmunks, field and regular mice, and more. She loves to proudly show her captured, dead, half eaten critters to us whenever the opportunity present (outside of course). snuggle time with a friend And last but not least, here is out diva that is names Miah (mi-jah). She rules the animal kingdom within the house. First photo is as a rescue kitten, checking out her new home for the first time: And here she is now in all her majesty's dominion: May all our animals have a safe and happy time this holiday season. DRUMS01
  3. Hey Quintillis, As I mentioned on the other forum, this is an epic build. The colors and quality are something any train builder would want to aspire to. I followed it on the other forum until you started the tender, but looking at what you have now, WOW! This is a show stopper! DRUMS01
  4. Thanks Harv and Mike. I completed it a little more than 1 year ago, but never posted it in the forum. I entered it in the IPMS regional contest in Columbus Ohio this spring and won in class and overall best of show German Military. I was very surprised at the results as they had some exceptional models there (IMHO), but I am not a judge. It was a very enjoyable build and I would even say that this was the best fitting Tamiya kit I have ever assembled. I'm still working on a British SAS Jeep counter part in 1:18 which I hope to post soon. Perhaps I could do a WIP of the jeep? Thanks again for checking it out and your kind words. Next time I will try to do a better job with the bushes. DRUMS01
  5. Scale: 1/16 Brand: Tamiya Subject: German Kubelwagen Colors: Tamiya, Vallejo, Testors MM, Pastels, Watercolor Pencils Other: (Below) - replaced kit figures with resin set sculpted by Jeffshius Minitures - drive line is fully wired and plumbed. - added P.E. for buckles, straps, Iron Crosses, etc. - added decals for SS Panzer unit moving from south med. thorough Italy into Europe - added resin tarps behind seat and on hood - added weapons and extras in interior - added lead foil straps to weapons, binoculars, etc. - added dirt, mud, scrapes, and rust using all mediums - diorama created from foam, putty, yard "stuff", and model railroad scenic details As always, your constructive comments are greatly welcome, and thanks for looking. Sincerely, Ben
  6. As requested, I am listing the products used during the build, identifying the kit shortfalls, corrections for accuracy, and additions or modifications performed. KIT: 1/350 USS Arizona manufactured by Banner (also sold under Hobby Boss and Mini Hobby) ADDITIONAL PRODUCTS USED DURING THE BUILD: - Eduard super detail PE set # EDU53016 - Eduard super detail PE Set # EDU53069 - Eduard USS Arizona Railings # EDU53078 - Tom's Modelworks cranes and catapults PE set #TMW3528 - Tom's Modelworks boat details PE set #TMW3529 - Alliance Modelworks WW2 US Naval vessel wiring, cable, routers #NW35020 - Alliance Modelworks WW2 triangular perforated gussets #NW35032 - machined naval vessel ships bell #CYG011 - machined US Navy bollards and metal anchor chain #CYG007 (Qty=2) - US Navy upgrade set #CYE012 - Master Models machined brass barrels (22) #350049 - Trumpeter 1/350 OSU-2 Kingfisher float planes #6249 - Blue Ridge Model's VF-5 decal set (for correct OSU-2 insignia) #BRM1109 - Scale Decks wood deck #LCD-42 - China value based wood deck (for small boats) - AK Interactive US Navy WW2 camouflage paint set 1 - AK Interactive US Navy WW2 camouflage paint set 2 - AK Interactive thinner, brush cleaner - Tamiya 1/350 Naval crew # 12622 - Minted USS Arizona challenge coins (2) - Hobby Lobby 5x18 picture frame (for base) - Hobby Lobby 1/8" premuim mat board - JTT resin water (blue and clear) - JTT model railroad snow powder - Brass, plastic, aluminum rods, sheets, extrusions (various) - welding solder (.162, .031, .015) various lengths - Cements (CA glue, Testers clear glue, Loctite gel, debonding agent, insta-set) - Brushes and applicators (various) - Hobby knife razor blades (many for PE alone) - Wet/dry sanding paper (various 320-2000 grit) - Sew-ology clear nylon rigging thread #1254360 RESEARCH PUBLICATIONS: - The Battleship Arizona (Waldemar Goralski) - USS Arizona, The enduring Legacy of a Battleship (Ineo Bauernfeind) - Battleship Arizona, An Illustrated History (Paul Stillwell) - USS Arizona, Squadron at Sea (David Boyle) - USS Arizona, Ships Data (Leeward Publications) - USS Arizona Ships Drawings, Arizona Memorial Museum Assn. - input from various first hand experts KIT SHORTFALLS, CORRECTIONS, AND MODIFICATIONS: - Poor deck fitting and details (corrected with wood deck, PE and scratch components) - Poor design and seams in superstructure (corrected with PE, plastic, brass, etc.) - Poorly molded 5" broadside gun stations (modified for soft covers, brass barrels) - Poorly molded stairs, ladders, doors, vents (removed old, corrected with PE sets) - Poorly molded aircraft (disgarded, corrected with Eduard, PE and scratch items) - Poorly molded anchor chain (removed old, corrected with real scale chain) - Poorly molded hawes pipes and anchor locker holes (reshaped, PE, plastic) - Poorly molded barrels and design (discarded, scratch build with metal barrels) - Poorly molded detail on main guns (corrected with scratch and PE parts) - Poorly molded splinter shields and gun tubs (removed, replaced with PE, scratch work) - Poorly molded and inaccurate superstructure (removed, replaced with PE and scratch) - Poorly molded and inaccurate conning tower (removed, replaced with PE) - Poorly molded and inaccurate signal flag boxes (removed replaced with PE) - Poorly molded cranes and catapults (discarded, replaced with PE, and scratch items) - Poor detail under all platforms (removed, replaced with PE and scratch items) - Boat mounts incorrect and poor mold (removed, replaced with PE and scratch items) - Rear gun tubs molded wrong (removed, replaced with PE and scratch items) - Boats and barges lack any detail (corrected with PE and scratch items) - Incorrect leading edge of hull armor plate (reshaped corrected belt lines) - Incorrect bilge keels (did not use lower half of hull) - Incorrect location for main mast tripod legs (modified model and scratch items) - Incorrect signal platform in kit and Eduard (modified, scratch items, PE) - Incorrect platforms/stairs by vegetable locker (partial scratch fix) - Incorrect search light structures on exhaust funnel (removed, fixed with PE) - Incorrect flag poles (front, rear, main mast) (removed and created from scratch) - Incorrect masts and antenna array (removed, fixed with PE and scratch items) - Missing R.D.F. Hut on superstructure (created from scratch) - Missing Mk#49 platforms/rings superstructure (created from scratch) - Missing Mk#49 raised platforms stern tubs (created from scratch) - Missing and incorrect Eduard PE conning tower stairs (scratch built with PE) - Missing incinerator (created from scratch) - Missing all open chocks (created from scratch) - Missing reels, waterproof doors, vents (corrected with PE) - Missing anchor details (corrected with PE and scratch) - Missing flags for bow, stern, no signal flags, (corrected from scratch) - Missing sky top MG Platform for 41 (fixed with PE and scratch items) - Missing fore mast sky perch for 41 (corrected with PE) - Missing boat booms on sides of hull (fixed with scratch items) - Missing hull observation planks (fixed with spare part PE) After all that, I present my corrected USS Arizona. It is shown as anchored in February 1941 at the Puget Sound Naval Ship Yard prior to its departure to Pearl Harbor. It is painted in the correct period colors. I think I could've kept going on small stuff, but there has to be a time to call something "done". When I started I had no idea what I was getting into. The research which included conflicting information; all of the extra's purchased for the kit; the scratch building; I could go on, but I'm sure all you modeler's understand. While it was far more effort than initially anticipated, I wanted to honor those who served on her so I felt I had to do something special. After just under 900 hours and $XXX.00 I hope I achieved that. DRUMS01 a.k.a. Ben
  7. Hi Mike, These are good and even fair questions to ask and I do not mind sharing my opinion of the kits I've made. 1. Some of the kite fit with very little modification while others might be more difficult. For example, the Ferrari D50 with the pontoon gas tanks between the wheels was much easier than the Mercedes. The Mercedes had fit problems, terrible paint, and the front suspension is not fun (difficult). Another issue with these kits is getting the rubber tires to expand enough to fit over the metal wheel without tearing apart. Depending on the age and past storage of your kit(s) that rubber may have partially dry rotted, so be very careful when sliding them over the metal inner-liners. 2. To strip the paint I first tried "Green Stuff" industrial cleaner without success. Next I tried "Easy Off" oven cleaner which worked pretty good. I then finished by using green tube fine auto putty and various grades of sandpaper. I also washed the metal with mild dish soap prior to painting. The primer was real automobile etching primer followed by Tamiya paint and future clear coat. 3. Usually no, but some sub-assemblies did need adjusted (filed) to better fit as intended and that was not caught intel it was there turn to be added. So, in those cases yes rework was needed. Enjoy your build as they are getting pricey and harder to find. When time is taken, the fun and detail can be really neat. PS: Have lots of files and sand paper. DRUMS01, a.k.a. Ben
  8. Hey Bomber County, it started as a toy in 1:18 sold under the brand, "Ultimate Soldier".
  9. OK, everyone, being "Large Scale Modeler" I didn't think it would be appropriate, so I didn't bother. And no, none of the brass, PE, wood deck, anchor chain, numerous smaller gun systems, or brass screws that I am using came with the kit. As requested, look for the posting soon... DRUMS01 PS: I you like the IJN Yamato, you would love my build of the 1/350 Arizona with full PE and validated scratchbuilt corrections based on great research and those who have dove on her. It was a very long, challenging, but rewarding build. I am working on having it possibly delivered and dedicated for the State Capitol building.
  10. Currently working on a smaller scale but bigger size kit, the Tamiya 1/350 Yamato with full PE and brass set. still a couple months away from completion most likely..... DRUMS01
  11. Thanks Harv.....
  12. It is my understanding that when they were deployed in both very late Korea and Vietnam, they were also used at times for indirect fire missions. I actually saw an on-line photo of one with them, so I thought they would be a different touch. DRUMS01
  13. Thanks Peter, this one was a real challenge to convert from a toy to an authentic and accurate model. I've been looking for years and just acquired a book end kit for the Lola, a similar year Brabham. I hope to get this in the build sequence very soon. DRUMS01
  14. Thanks Phil.... While some parts were done well, many were warped, sink marks, incorrect, void of any detail, etc. The panel gaps and overall fitment on a scale from 1-10 (highest) I would rate the model kit a 5.5 - 6.0 for those reasons. Now that there are 1/32 and 1/18 Harriers out there I may have to build them to compare kits. After all, A-10's and Harriers are like Spitfires, Messerschmitts, you can never have too many. As far as future builds, I have many "staged" but I am one of those who only model one kit at a time. Other aircraft in the stack, near the top, are 1/32 F-14, 15, 16 all Tamiya's. a 1/48 PBY Pro Modeler from Revell, 1/48 C-130, B-1 Bomber, and so on. I'm currently building the 1/350 IJN Yamato with full detail set in a group build on another forum. It will most likely take till New Years to finish. Next kit will be an aircraft for sure, or auto, or figure, or ship, or armor,.......... crap... it will be something. DRUMS01
  15. Nice work Phil, it totally looks like a battle wagon should. Two thumbs up.... DRUMS01
  16. For those who do not know, they were a company, based out of Italy, who created metal model kits of classic Grand Prix or Formula One cars. Their detail in 1/20 scale was usually second to none, but often required extensive flat and seam removal. Much of the assembly is perfumed with screws. When they were released back in the day, they were quite state of the art multimedia consisting of metal, plastic, and rubber components. The bodies came pre-painted but a few of mine had bubbles under the finish requiring a strip seal, prime and re-paint. The metal spoked wire wheels are one of the highlights of the product line. They also marketed a budget friendly version that still used a mostly metal chassis and engine but had plastic bodies and plastic wheels. The high end kits provided hours and hours of fun for classic racer gear heads like me. Here are some of mine finished mostly out of the box: Ferrari D50 This one had to be repainted due to imperfections in the paint. The windshield was made from clear acetate as the kit part was missing. And "yes", the engine was engineered by Ferrari to sit canted in the frame. The rounded screens sitting on top of the injectors were hand punched from pipe tobacco screens and the fuel rail was made from copper wire. Other added items include brake lines, a fuel bowl, and other chassis supports. Mercedes Benz W163 (another body repaint with after-market decals) Chassis only The kit was notoriously known for an ill fitting hood/bonnet as it would hit the coolant lines on top the engine before properly laying in place. Mine only laid correctly after significant thinning of the thick metal hood. Ferrari 500, 1952 Thanks for looking and comments welcome. DRUMS01
  17. Thank you everybody for the kind comments. Well belugawhaleman, I could try to get something together, but you could just as easily go to the planetfigure forum where they have numerous tutorials using several different mediums. They also have some specific on how to apply eyes, depth, expressions, etc. I use a little of everything, enamels, acrylics, oils, watercolor, and pastels. Another topic with figures is how to get depth and smooth transitions in the uniforms and gear. Some of the techniques I use include airbrushing, washes, blending, and dry brushing followed by light weathering using pastels or weathering mediums. I am no expert by a far margin and have tried numerous techniques until I find one that works for me (or a combination of them). DRUMS01
  18. Thanks Rudolfo and Peter... I have several more to post as I haven't added anything for a few years.
  19. Thank you everyone. I built this kit a couple years ago and never shown it in the forum till now. This was a build that tested my endurance. Many parts did not fit well and areas like the wheel wells were completely devoid of any detail at all. Parts of the cockpit were not much better. The vectoring ports in the front rear and wings were not done well or at all either. Then there was the large gaps around the exhaust nozzles which too large amounts of sheet plastic to tame. The kits original decals were trash and could not be used. I was very fortunate that Airfix was willing to provide their newest decals (for a cost). With all this said, if you want a 1/24 Harrier, this is the only game in town. I know it's not a contest winner, but the challenges of overcoming those issues made it a satisfying build for me, and isn't that what modeling is really about? Thanks once again for looking and the comments. DRUMS01
  20. Thanks GazzaS and Martinnfb for the kind comments. While it is not a contest worthy model it did provide challenges and enjoyment. I will call this one a 3 footer, if you know what I mean (smile). Thanks again for looking in and providing your feedback..... DRUMS01
  21. Since it has been years since I participated in this forum I want to update you on some of the figures I've built. Most were out of the box with only mild customizing such as straps and belts. Some are Verlinden while others are from everywhere around the world. Paints used were Tamiya, Vallejo, Testors MM, pastels, watercolors, and some oils. Thanks for looking.... Stay safe, healthy, happy, and model something. DRUMS01
  22. Actually, I do very much.. (like scratch building). I cannot tell you the last time I made anything straight from the box (without modifications, after-market, or scratch building). Sometimes its small stuff, other times it can be most of the model. I find that depending on what your trying to build, the research behind the actual item, and the quality / details / variant of the model, too often there is always some modification needed. With that said, I am at a loss to locate any other work in progress photos of this build. I completed the build several years ago, but have never showed it on this forum, until now. So, here are remainder of the WIP and completed 1966 Red Ball Transit Lola (winner) driven by Sir Grahm Hill. Tamiya, Model Master, and Vallejo paints. Estimated parts count = 878
  23. Here is a 1/16 Lola first introduced in the early 1970's by Bandai. It is both a model and a toy. The kit was all plastic but also contained a battery box and motor to turn the rear wheels. To say it was a very crude and basic kit is an understatement. The battery box was where the cockpit now resides and the front suspension in kit for was no more than 7 pieces. The model of the motor was a one piece engine and transmission in two halves. Not including the intake injectors or exhaust tubes, the whole engine was around 9-10 parts in kit form. The rear suspension did not exist. Instead, the toy rear suspension was no more that 6 parts. I think every single part of the kit has been modified and several hundred others added from scratch or after-market. I removed the connection pins inside the nose so I can slip it over a scratch built front suspension and radiator. The bottom of it was extended so it will continue to the chassis. Side scoops were cut into the nose and added and the suspension openings were properly shaped. Other modifications were performed to the intake vent and internally. The engine cowling was changed to correct the shape of the top opening and the right side injector opening was reduced in size like the actual car on race day. The bottom tail was changed to add the aero fin as on the actual car. Blisters added and modified for the cam covers and the corrected roll bar openings. The left intake opening has been reshaped as well. The entire front and rear chassis, cockpit, and over 80% of the engine were modified from scratch using brass, plastic, solder, aluminum, and other "stuff" Stay tuned as there is much more to come..... including photos (smile)..... DRUMS01
  24. Being new, and this the "large scale" website, I thought it would be appropriate to show my reworked and scratch built M41 that started as a toy shell. The turret and hull interior has been detailed from scratch. Many items have been replace or modified to include a canvas mantlet cover, numerous engine components, improvements to chassis and hull for accuracy, ties down grab rails on the turret, etc. After-market resin tarps and a wood box have been added. The cleaning rod on the side of the turret and aiming stakes on the front of the hull are also from scratch. In the storage boxes on the side of the hull are numerous items to include C-Rations, a bore brush, RBC and LSA, maps, rags, etc. I may at some time go back and replace the track and sprockets to individual links and add more crew members of higher quality. Until then I'm calling this D-O-N-E. I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoyed building it. DRUMS01
  25. I have been a member of this site for some time but I've never posted anything, so this is new to me. This was the original kit made in the mid 70's. Considering the period it was molded, some of the kit actually fit pretty good while some was terrible or lacked any detail. The most notable areas needing help were the landing gear and wheel bays, the Martin Baker ejection seat, canopy fit, cockpit side details, lack of weapons mounting hardware, and fit of the main wing with the engine access panel. I attempted to eliminate most of these errors with some scratch building. The paint scheme I chose is the standard for the GR1 / AV8 of the era. Decals are provided for American, Spanish, and English aircraft. Though it was a tough decision, being from the States, the U.S. Marines version won out. The kit is rather large when finished, but should display well... It is not my best work, but it is by best 1/24 Airfix Harrier (and only 1), so that will have to do. I have other versions in different scales. It will be interesting to see how this one stacks up to the others. Here are some WIP photos: Final result... I love the work being shown in this forum, ..... keep it up. DRUMS01
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