HGW Wet Transfers and washes

[rkranias]

Anyone have experience using HGW Wet Transfers?

 

With a wash?  AK Interactive, Florys, MiG?

 

Thanks for any feedback.

 

Rick

[James H]

You'll apply these straight on top of gloss surface, and then seal in with a little more gloss.

 

There shouldn't be any trouble with then applying your washes to this, as long as your gloss varnish is acrylic. (those washes are enamel based and won't affect the acrylic gloss)

[rkranias]

You'll apply these straight on top of gloss surface, and then seal in with a little more gloss.

 

There shouldn't be any trouble with then applying your washes to this, as long as your gloss varnish is acrylic. (those washes are enamel based and won't affect the acrylic gloss)

Thanks Jim.

 

Noting, Flory wash may be applied on any surface Solvent or Acrylic.  MiG or AK wash must be applied on an Acrylic surface. 

 

That said, after wet transfers applied and cured to prep for the wash the gloss finish applied over the wet transfers must be an acrylic like Vallejo or Tamiya? 

 

Alclad or Mr Color solvent base gloss/clear over cured wet transfers is a No, No?

 

Dumb this down for me Jim as I am not a smart man. 

[James H]

Okies, a typical regime would be this:

 

1. Paint scheme
2. Seal in acrylic gloss (Future/Klear etc.)
3. Decal, including your wet transfer set.
4. Seal in acrylic gloss again to protect decals
5. Apply oil fading/filter (if you bother, and I don't)
6. Add wash
7. Remove wash excess in direction of airflow
8. Matt varnish
9. Apply weathering (exhaust stains, chipping etc)

 

I appreciate not everyone will use that order, but it does work. You can change things by adding Alclad metal lacquer, and chipping solutions before main paint job.

[RalphSarc]

As Jim knows I'm a huge fan of Flory Washes. To date I have had no problems with them. I tend to apply my wash, pigments etc on a flat surface as I find it gives the product something to bit to. I spary with Future to apply decals and the finish with a matt coat! I use Mig and Vallijo pigments and Tamita pastels!

[James H]

Just remember that using any wash over a matt surface will change the tone of your paint, and not in a definitively controlled way. 

 

I know modellers who do this, but please be careful.

[rkranias]

Okies, a typical regime would be this:

 

1. Paint scheme
2. Seal in acrylic gloss (Future/Klear etc.)
3. Decal, including your wet transfer set.
4. Seal in acrylic gloss again to protect decals
5. Apply oil fading/filter (if you bother, and I don't)
6. Add wash
7. Remove wash excess in direction of airflow
8. Matt varnish
9. Apply weathering (exhaust stains, chipping etc)

 

I appreciate not everyone will use that order, but it does work. You can change things by adding Alclad metal lacquer, and chipping solutions before main paint job.

My Dear James.

 

Hihihihihihihi

 

The detail of your response was indeed well thought out and succinct.  Thank you my friend. 

 

I should have made myself more clear, my bad. 

 

 

Wet Transfers

 

Assumption they are treat the same as decals.  Apply on varnished surface, when dry apply varnish.  Then apply weathering, etc.  My angst is ruining the Wet Transfers by applying the wrong varnish and wreathing treatment.

[James H]

MIG/AK/AMMO stuff doesn't need to be applied on an acrylic surface. It just needs to NOT BE APPLIED on an enamel surface. I've used them just fine over Tamiya and Gunze clears.

 

Correct. I simply made the distinction between acrylic and enamel, but didn't counter in lacquers and other mediums too.