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Everything posted by rkranias

  1. This build will represent the mount of RNZAF ace (20+ kills) Wing Commander Evan Mackie late May 1945. I chose this scheme for several reasons. I have a few Kiwi modeling friends. The scheme is absent of DDay stripes, small fuselage codes and absence of any ordnance will show the beautiful lines of the Tempest. Masking serial number and fuselage codes. Using Maketar masks and MRP NATO black the serial numbers are added. it's always special when I spot a seam well into final finishing stages. Fuselage codes Mackie's initials are MRP Sky. On Deck - Gloss, stencil decals more gloss and weathering.
  2. Mask off. Happy to report no lifting or bleeding.
  3. MRP110 Dark Green. Hard to show up on the black base. It really is marbled! Look close.
  4. Ocean Grey going down. I use black base marbling technique. It works for me. Considered using putty worms for Ocean Grey/Dark Green demarcation. I'm going in freehand. MRP115 Ocean Grey. 2 sessions needed as fatigue on trigger finger set in. Blending
  5. All national markings, ID bands will be painted. Using Maketar masks the 4 color roundel application begin. A base of MRP135 Insignia White is applied for roundels, fin flash and ID bands. I'm applying markings using this method as I want to keep paint build up to minimum. MRP122 RAF Marking Yellow is applied. This late war aircraft, flown by New Zealand ace Evan Mackie, will have C1 roundels in all 6 positions. After yellow cures masks are carefully positioned. MRP183 Oxford Blue is applied. I spend much time deliberating on the correct "blue" for late war RAF a/c. I took the FICE approach and I'm pleased with my decision. The blue has cured and more masks carefully placed. I applied liquid mask on all tape seams to insure no bleeding. MRP123 RAF Marking Red completes the national insignias. Masks removed. No bleeds, no lifting. Win, win. The DSPIAE cutter is nothing short of pure precision. The learning curve on this instrument is very short. Once I learned the razor adjustment I've have zero issues. I am cutting roundel blanks out of mylar to protect the national markings during the camouflage painting. Careful measure and a test cut, it's good. The locator is a must as this component will allow you to make cuts with very little waste of masking material. Precision cuts with very little waste the the locator tool. Blank masks cover the roundels and fin flash. Then black primer lightly covers the white over spray. MRP118 RAF Sky used fuselage ID band. MRP122 RAF Marking Yellow applied to leading edge of wings. While I'm at it I gave the prop tips some yellow love. After ID bands are masked the wing walk is painted using MRP255 Night Camouflage. To determine the proper curve at wing root I placed aluminum foil at the wing walk area and gently burnished. The precise line at wing root is revealed. After careful measuring and using a French Curve I cut the masks out of mylar. Mylar masks for wing walk applied.
  6. One of my favorites...masking. Cockpit, radiator opening and wheel wells get the tape, liquid mask and sponge treatment. Will prime with Gunze 1500 Black.
  7. Thanks Carl! Hey Harv! Thanks Jeff. Thanks Jonathan.
  8. Staring at the kit supplied gunsights I knew they needed replaced. Since this is a very lat war Tempest I wanted the Ace Maker Gyro gunsight.  I had Roy's BR32011 Spitfire Upgrade Part II which has the Ace Maker gunsight. The Barr & Stroud Mk.II is marked for one of my big Spitfires. So procuring the Ace Maker gunsight will be perfect. Comparison between the kit supplied Ace Maker and Roy's is significant . When removing the mount from the casting block I urge extreme care and patience. Micro saw is a must. RB micro saw is perfect. The gunsight mount is quite fragile. Paint with MRP 77 NATO Black, supplied decals and add some wiring. The reflector shade is from the SH kit. Need me some glass for the reflector shade. I cut a 4mm x 3.5mm piece of clear styrene and score at the 1.5mm measure. Score only, do not cut. Carefully fold at the score line and... and place in the reflector shade. I attached with thin CA. Shave with lens attached. Color me happy. Mount on top of IP. Windscreen mounted. Time for some masking.
  9. I wanted to give surface area for epoxy to secure the nose. I built up the firewall with thick plasticard. The inside if the replacement nose was shaved to accept the depth of the new firewall. Epoxy mixed using a small applicator. Applying the epoxy with small applicator I realize I need a method to add epoxy volume. Go big or go home with a 14ga 1.5" (3.8cm) industrial syringe. I'm able to lay a nice thinck bead of epoxy along the firewall and nose joint. After the epoxy cured I applied some primer on all the joints then smoothed out and re-scribed all the offense areas.
  10. Attaching the wing was difficult as the fit not the best. I used claps and tape to keep wing root gap at minimum and proper wing dihedral. Clamps and tape do the job.
  11. Radiator test fit. Prop alignment jig. Make sure your printer is set at 100% when you print the jig sheet. A nice comparison with the SH nose and Roy's corrected nose/prop set.
  12. As I was wrapped up work on the kit nose Barracuda released their nose correction set. I promptly ordered mine. I was the 1st Tempest correction set shipped. Roy can confirm. Yes, this build has been on the SOD for quite awhile. There has already been a review of this set so I'll be succinct. It's a beauty and it's 98% plug n play. Minor seam work required. Beautifully cast set with all the goodies. Even tools to properly mount prop blades at correct pitch. The casting plug is significant and I highly recommend studying Roy's recommendation on plug removal. Wearing my ventilator I placed a damp towel on table and grinded away the plug. The damp towel keeps dust from making a big mess on my bench. After grinding I take my razor saw and carefully remove remains of resin block. A sanding stick smooths out the nose. Drill for the prop backplate and clean the radiator scoop. Test fit and it looks good.
  13. Tim and I a camping went, met 3 maidens with a tent. They being 3 and we being 2, I bucked 1 and Tim bucked 2.
  14. Found the photos showing post wiring, pre assembly of the cockpit and wheel wells. I felt posting this would be helpful to any future SH Tempest Mk.II or Mk.V build. You'll see some repeated images from my previous posts. Using Lead Wire.2mm, .3mm and .6mm plumbing added to wheel wells and cockpit tub and walls. Wiring for cockpit tub. Just enough to be visible once fuselage is buttoned up. You can see where I grinded inside of fuselage walls to accept the cockpit tub. MRP 77 NATO Black for top half of cockpit wall while MRP 111 Interior Green for bottom half. Details picked out with various Vallejo Model Colors and Ulshi metal powders. I pre drilled wheel well walls before assembly. The rod will be either .4mm styrene or aluminum rod on parts H41 and H42. Wheel well plumbing complete. Note the styrene rods on parts H41 and H42. I'm leaning towards using aluminum rod as no painting will be required. I removed them prior to painting as they would easily get snapped off. Wheel well painted with MRP 111 Interior Green.
  15. Cheers Phil, For me I waited until glue was fully cured on the wheel well parts...a few days. Then I began test fitting and sanding. Parts J13 and J14 needed much attention with sanding stick for correct fit. It truly was a PITA. Thanks Ernie. Cheers Rob. Disappointing on the Yahu fit. Thanks Axeman!
  16. Cockpit tub got plenty of wiring love. You'll have to look close to see the plumbing. Just enough to be visible from open cockpit. With IP in view you will notice the Yahu panel is only used on center. The port and starboard panels are kit offering painted up with decals. The Yahu port and starboard.panels did not fit.
  17. GOOD NEWS - Wiring completed BAD NEWS - All construction pics were lost, my bad Primed and painted MRP 111 Interior Grey-Green. You can see the plumbing added. Also note parts H41 and H42 in place with pre-drilled hole for the .4mm rod. More wheel well detail.
  18.  Part s H41 and H42 are door retracting arm and from beginning I knew this would be problematic during the build and eventually break. I removed the "hydraulic" rod and drilled a .4mm hole. Then I glued parts H41 and H42. The rod will be replaced with either .4mm styrene or aluminum rod. Photo shows styrene rod test fitted.  Once glue is fully cured I placed cockpit tub in fuselage and began removing offensive parts of the wheel well as the cockpit tub interferes with fit of wing to fuselage assembly. Parts J13 and J14 needed much attention with sanding stick for correct fit. Time add some plumbing.
  19. Heres a few images of the Ho229 at both Silver Hill facility and Udvar Hazy PRU. Hope some of these images will be helpful. Early 2012 the Ho229 being prepped at the Silver Hill facility for move to Udvar Hazy Preservation Restoration Unit (PRU). Note white shrink poly protecting open areas. Wing Root, photo taken from Observation Level with "big" lens. Wing trailing edge. The laminated birch clearly "ungluing" due to aging. Wing trailing edge. Carefully being placed on mount at Silver Hill facility. Securing the nose gear to the mount.
  20. excellent work Jeroen. you are nailing the look.
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