rkranias Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 Anyone have experience using HGW Wet Transfers? With a wash? AK Interactive, Florys, MiG? Thanks for any feedback. Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators James H Posted February 14, 2015 Administrators Share Posted February 14, 2015 You'll apply these straight on top of gloss surface, and then seal in with a little more gloss. There shouldn't be any trouble with then applying your washes to this, as long as your gloss varnish is acrylic. (those washes are enamel based and won't affect the acrylic gloss) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkranias Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 You'll apply these straight on top of gloss surface, and then seal in with a little more gloss. There shouldn't be any trouble with then applying your washes to this, as long as your gloss varnish is acrylic. (those washes are enamel based and won't affect the acrylic gloss) Thanks Jim. Noting, Flory wash may be applied on any surface Solvent or Acrylic. MiG or AK wash must be applied on an Acrylic surface. That said, after wet transfers applied and cured to prep for the wash the gloss finish applied over the wet transfers must be an acrylic like Vallejo or Tamiya? Alclad or Mr Color solvent base gloss/clear over cured wet transfers is a No, No? Dumb this down for me Jim as I am not a smart man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators James H Posted February 14, 2015 Administrators Share Posted February 14, 2015 Okies, a typical regime would be this: Paint scheme Seal in acrylic gloss (Future/Klear etc.) Decal, including your wet transfer set. Seal in acrylic gloss again to protect decals Apply oil fading/filter (if you bother, and I don't) Add wash Remove wash excess in direction of airflow Matt varnish Apply weathering (exhaust stains, chipping etc) I appreciate not everyone will use that order, but it does work. You can change things by adding Alclad metal lacquer, and chipping solutions before main paint job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RalphSarc Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 As Jim knows I'm a huge fan of Flory Washes. To date I have had no problems with them. I tend to apply my wash, pigments etc on a flat surface as I find it gives the product something to bit to. I spary with Future to apply decals and the finish with a matt coat! I use Mig and Vallijo pigments and Tamita pastels! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators James H Posted February 14, 2015 Administrators Share Posted February 14, 2015 Just remember that using any wash over a matt surface will change the tone of your paint, and not in a definitively controlled way. I know modellers who do this, but please be careful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkranias Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 Okies, a typical regime would be this: Paint scheme Seal in acrylic gloss (Future/Klear etc.) Decal, including your wet transfer set. Seal in acrylic gloss again to protect decals Apply oil fading/filter (if you bother, and I don't) Add wash Remove wash excess in direction of airflow Matt varnish Apply weathering (exhaust stains, chipping etc) I appreciate not everyone will use that order, but it does work. You can change things by adding Alclad metal lacquer, and chipping solutions before main paint job. My Dear James. Hihihihihihihi The detail of your response was indeed well thought out and succinct. Thank you my friend. I should have made myself more clear, my bad. Wet Transfers Assumption they are treat the same as decals. Apply on varnished surface, when dry apply varnish. Then apply weathering, etc. My angst is ruining the Wet Transfers by applying the wrong varnish and wreathing treatment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators James H Posted February 15, 2015 Administrators Share Posted February 15, 2015 MIG/AK/AMMO stuff doesn't need to be applied on an acrylic surface. It just needs to NOT BE APPLIED on an enamel surface. I've used them just fine over Tamiya and Gunze clears. Correct. I simply made the distinction between acrylic and enamel, but didn't counter in lacquers and other mediums too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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