Dave J

Stats have been modified to be in the closed postion... but there is a small gap that need to be taken care of! The gap is filled with some plastic strips and filed and sanded to fill the gap... some filler is required to tidy that join up.. Somehow, I always end up braking off the antenna mount tab on the tail...

Had to grind away some of the mounting arms to make the pit fit... I guess I should of grinded away the excess resin on the pit first before fitting it! Started to tackle this seams in the nose... Added a Eagleparts G Oilcooler as the shape looks better than the kits offering... That damn seam still giving me some issues! This time trying some Tamiya Light Curing Putty....

Next thing on the list was to remove all the hatches from the G-4 airframe and backdate it to a G-2.. I thought I would try out and Aires Wheel Bay kit too... I think next time I will pass on this set and maybe try one of the RB Productions offerings... All the sidewalls of the gear bay were removed using my Tamiya sprue cutters... Some grinding with the Demel was required also! And those pain in the ass, kidney inserts! There has to be a better way to deal with them!

This photo popped up on another modelling forum beginning of 2012... Once I saw it, I had to do this scheme! Bf 109 G-2, WNr 10436 Oberfeldwebel Wilhelm Schilling, 9./JG 52, Siverskaya, Soviet Union, September 1942. There is no Decal Sheet available for this scheme, so it will be done via a mixture of custom made paint masks and decals... I will be using the Promodeller G-4 Trop kit and back dating it to a G-2 I started this again in beginning of 2012 while my family was overseas for 4 weeks... but for some reason it got stuck on the shelve for some reason... Since its so close to being done, I need to resurrect it and finish it! Started off grinding off all the detail in the Cockpit to fit the Aires pit... Its for a Trumpeter kit, but all the mounting points seem to be the same as a G-6 pit for a Hasegawa kit Sprayed RLM 66 using Mr Color Lacquers All the items that need to be painted different colours received a base coat of white, this was done using Tamiya acrylics. All the components picked out using a fine brush Some Airscale Placards were added to make the pit "busier", Everything was sealed with a gloss clear and then given a oil wash. Once dry a coat of Alclad Kear Kote was sprayed on to tone everything down... A normal HB pencil was used to add scratches and wear in areas.

No worries Guys! Glad it will help you out! Artist Oil paints, there are heaps brands out on the market... Most common one is Winston & Newton... But here in NZ they are quite dear... NZ$5-10 tube! I got a set of Maries 18 oil colours for around NZ$20... They are made in China, they are a tad heavy on the oil side, but they are as good as anything else I have tried!

The fuselage has been sprayed with Tamiya XF-76 and been given a oil wash Raw Umber.

My technique for wood graining is pretty simple and very easy to do. Its very similar to a technique that armour modellers use for weathering. I start off spraying the base colour to the part/s, this case I have used Tamiya's XF-59 Desert Yellow. Next I thin down the oil colour with some turpentine to a very watery thinned mixture. I apply the watery mixture the to the part to tint the base colour. Then I apply dots of the oil paint onto random areas of the part and brush them back and forth to get the grain look onto the part. You can add different colour dots of oil paint to achieve dark grains. It should look something like this one you have finished. Since the oil colours have been thinned drying time is a lot quicker. Normally I find that it is tacky dry in 15-30 minutes and 24-48 hours dry to handle. You can also cheat and use a hairdryer to speed up the drying time. I normally do this method and will spray a clear varnish over the parts to seal them in around 4 hours after using the hairdryer.

Tamiya XF-57 Buff You can mix these two clear colours to get a shade to suit your requirements. I also forgot tho mention that you can do the same with the oil colours get different shades again, like I did here on the W.29 prop on the Wingnut Wings website to get that cherry/brownish colour.

as mention before you can change the colour of the wood by adding an tinted varnish. Here I have used Tamiya Clear Yellow and Clear Orange out of the bottle. Clear Yellow is on the top and Clear Orange is the lower surfaces. Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow Tamiya XF-15 Flat Flesh Tamiya XF-3 Flat Yellow

XF-57 Buff So this will give you a good idea of what kinda of outcome you can get with a few different colours. I would seal this in with a clear varnish, if you were happy with the tone achieved. You again can change the tone by spraying Tamiya Clear Yellow or Orange over it.

As you can see that the different base colours do give the underlying grain a different tone. I have split the photos as front and rear fuselage so I could get a closer shot. XF-59 Desert Yellow XF-3 Flat Yellow XF-3 Flat Yellow

With the base colour now being dry, its onto the next stage.. I am going to use 4 different oil colours out of the tube to show the different tones that you can achieve using the different base colours. I will be using Raw Sienna, Burnt Sienna, Raw Umber and Burnt Umber. The oil colours are applied in the following order - Raw Sienna, Burnt Sienna, Raw Umber and Burnt Umber. XF-57 Buff base XF-59 Desert Yellow base XF-51 Flat Flesh base XF-3 Flat Yellow base Its a bit hard to see due the smaller sized photos, but the base colour gives the underlying grain a different tone. Once the oil tones have dried you again can change the appearance by using a clear yellow or orange vanish. Unfortunately with oil paints the drying time is slow....

Before I started at WnW, if someone asked me to paint a Wood grain finish on a model... I would mostly likely painted it with one tone of brown! As most WW2 aircraft didn't have a lot of bare wood showing I never learnt or really used this technique till now. This wood grain technique is very simple, all that is required is the following - Acrylic Paint for the base - Artist Oils and Mineral turpentine (not pictured) for the wash mixture - I picked up this oil set from our local online auction site, like Ebay for US$15.