ThomasProbert

The undercarriage is now more or less complete. The main struts were painted along with the main airframe, so the first task was to spray the retraction mechanisms matt black. Earlier in the build, these were scratch-built from plastic card and Evergreen strip, along with some wall tacs and cotton bud shafts: Here they are painted, with a light weathering of dark grey to bring out some detail, and the actuation struts covered in self adhesive foil: After painting and weathering the main wheels with some pigments, everything was installed on the model. The final touch was to add some brake lines: Considering the whole of the undercarriage has been scratch-built, I don't think it's come out too badly. Now to busy myself making some undercarriage doors... Until the next update, Tom

Cees is correct, the white is lead deposits from the engines running lean in the cruise as far as my research suggests. The tail-planes were out of the way of the exhausts, but the lower fins did gather a bit of staining. This is more visible on the white Coastal Command schemes, but less so on the black Halifaxes. Tom

Still making slow steps and have got the exhausts finished off. They're not 100% accurate but considering they've been built completely from scratch they'll do and are a close enough representation of the late exhaust system fitted to the Merlin powered Halifaxes. Each one was made from Evergreen 'girder', with each section being cut separately and mounted to a plastic card backing plate at the correct angle and then sanded to shape: Here's the painting process underway: And then fitted to the nacelles: I think getting the undercarriage completed is next on my list... Tom

I've had the airbrush out this afternoon and have applied the exhaust stains to the upper wing of the Halifax. The base colour is Xtracolour 'tyre black' and then I've added some thinned Humbrol light grey over the top nearest to the exhaust outlets to replicate the lead deposits after running lean in the cruise. The picture show this to good effect (used for illustrative purposes only): Any my attempt: I've also removed the masking now it's had a final flat coat, and I am really pleased with how it looks. It needs a bit of a neatening up in places but that's no great problem: I will add the remaining glazing at the end of the build - it's handy being able to get into the cockpit incase any remaining sanding debris gets into view! I've taken a few shots of the model in natural sunlight this afternoon to show you the overall paintjob now that it is finished: Slowly getting there... Tom

I'd love to see a Hampden built - not an aircraft I know a great deal about but another of the RAF's bombers that doesn't get much of the limelight. I am seriously considering getting a Stirling at some point, it would be nice to complete the trio of 'heavies'. I can't see one listed on John's website so I may well contact him to see if he has the moulds. The thought of that undercarriage makes me shudder though! Tom

Indeed - quite the unsung hero.

Thanks for the kind words gentlemen... Cees as you well know this is why kits such as this are such fun! I must confess to getting a lot more enjoyment out of them than run of the mill injection moulded kits. Yes they cause a bit of head scratching and occasional stress(!) along the way, but they certainly give you a great sense of acheivement when they're done. EVERYONE SHOULD BUILD A VAC Tom

Another update - I've finished the decalling process, which required raiding the spares box as well as making my own. The serial numbers came from an Xtradecal sheet, and the fin flashes were made from block decal, again from Xtradecal, measured carefully and cut to shape. The whole airframe has had a base coat of flat varnish, and then I added some more variation to the green and brown as I felt it was a little 'flat' and in this scale needed some more life injected into it. I followed pictures of the real aircraft as much as possible to get a 'used but not abused' look, as well as trying to keep the scale effect. There are about four different shades of the camouflage colours which were applied lightly and built up with the airbrush. The black has had a lot less done to it as period photos show this seemed to wear a lot better than the upper colours, but I may well add a little wear with pastels at some point. I think my next task is to give the model a final flat coat, and then finish the exhausts and apply some staining across the wings. Until the next update, Tom

Hi Cees, Yes the engine will need to be back-dated. I did it with my Lancaster build a few years back so it should prove fairly straight forward doing it again. I honestly don't know about the tank vents - I've just followed the Granger plans and added them to mine. They're on there now so can stay Tom

It'll be a case of getting the sprues from the Tamiya Spit. The engine itself will require some modification, but it'll be a good starting point. Tom

I've taken full advantage of the weather and got the remaining paint work done on the Halifax. First up was a masking marathon to protect the upper surfaces: ...and then the lower surfaces were sprayed black. After the paint had hardened fully I carefully removed my masking to reveal the squadron codes: I'm pretty pleased with the outcome, and will now busy myself applying the rest of the decals. These will mostly be made myself, along with a few from the spares box. Until next time, Tom

First coats of black have gone on the undersides this morning - when cured fully I'll be adding a bit of tonal variation to a few panels and the fabric covered surfaces but this may have to wait until tomorrow... Tom (hoping the fine weather holds)

Thanks Cees... she's getting there! Tom

Indeed. If you look at my first post you can see what I started with: in essence the basic exterior shapes. Tom

It's been a while since the last update as painting this model is taking some serious time... I have finally settled on a colour scheme, and have gone for a Halifax GRII Series IA, that began life in Bomber Command and was then transferred to Coastal Command. The serial number was JP328, and she flew with initially with 502 Squadron (wearing the codes V9-H) and finally with 58 Squadron (coded BY-H) at St. Davids throughout the summer of 1944 until the end of hostilities, being SOC on 6th May 1945 and sold for scrap. Interestingly, this aircraft retained its Bomber Command colours, with the only change being the serial and codes painted grey rather than the more familiar red codes in her previous role. JP328 was fitted with Merlin 22 engines driving four bladed propellers, and was fitted with the late radiator intakes and Morris Block radiators - perfect for the model I have chosen. Another reason for choosing this scheme is the fact that the Halifax served with distinction within Bomber and Coastal Commands, and this hybrid scheme represents both services and is my own little tribute to them. I initially primed the model with Halfords' white primer - I feel this shows up blemishes more easily than grey and polishes better with micro-mesh. After I had rectified a few surface blemishes I pre-shaded the upper surfaces with matt black, and then sprayed the area where the fuselage codes go grey. The codes were carefully measured and then masked off with thin Tamiya tape in preparation for the top coats. Next came the roundels - a coat of slightly darkened Humbrol gloss red, which was masked and then followed by the 'roundel' blue from Xtracolour, which was again darkened slightly as I felt it was a little 'too' blue. The whole roundel was then carefully masked in preparation for the camouflage colours. I really like Xtracolour's range of enamels, and I used gloss dark earth, followed by gloss dark green. The camouflage pattern was sprayed freehand using a Badger 200 airbrush, and with the pressure low and the nozzle screwed tight, it was easy to get a nice and tight feathered edge. I then picked out random areas of the upper surfaces with with slightly lightened and darkened versions of the base colours, trying to follow pictures of real Halifaxes as best I could. The following pictures show the current state of play - it doesn't look the best due to the high-gloss sheen but this will be matted down in due course: I will now turn my attention to the black undersides and will update you again when that's done. Until next time, Tom

That's very true... until some smart Alec comes along once I've finished and shows me a picture of the real thing! Tom

Hi Cees, Thanks - I was pleased with how the canpoy turned out considering the grief it had given me. It's not perfect, but it'll do! I used a profile drawing of the aircraft I'm making as a guide, and it had the handrail pictured - however as it's not an actual photo this must be taken into consideration. It'll be easy enough to remove, but it'll be a shame as I was actually quite pleased with it! I used the Granger plans for the positioning of the balance horns, but I think they show the wing of the MkI so you are likely right about their position - I'll have a look at some pictures and move them outboard if it's the case. It's bound to happen - story of my life! Get yourself a vac and have some real fun... Thanks for the interest chaps! Tom

Well I'm finally in a position to declare construction work complete and the big Halibag is ready for the painting process to begin. Before I start painting I wanted to get the exhausts done in case there was any major alterations needed to the nacelles - this would be a bit of a headache if the painting was complete and I had to cut/sand things. The Halifax I am replicating was fitted with Merlin 22s and drove the four-bladed props, and was fitted with the late style of exhaust. I was relieved about this as they would be much easier to replicate than the 'saxaphone stacks' found on the earlier Merlin-powered Halifaxes. Here's what they looked like on the real aircraft (used for illustrative purposes only): My effort was produced using some U-shaped Evergreen strip, cut into individual stacks and shaped accordingly, and then mated to a plastic-card backing piece, which in turn will attach directly to the nacelle: They still need a bit of refining, but you get the idea. Whilst paint is drying I'll be able to make the rest. I've also scratch-built a few more of the aerials found on the real aircraft - the DF loop was made from Milliput, and the small grab- handle was made from Evergreen strip: The balance horns on the ailerons were also made from thin steel tubing bent to shape and Milliput: Other aerials will still need to be made and added, but these will go on after primer as the whole model will be micro meshed and I know I'll end up knocking any finer bits off! The cockpit has been carefully masked and the frames primed with green: And now here we are, ready for painting to commence: The first job will be paint the squadron codes and wing roundels so I'll keep you updated as I progress. Until next time, Tom

Hi Cees, When I compare the fuselage now to an original I have, I see what you mean. The hard graft was certainly worth it! Tom

Thanks Cees - typically I've read this too late and have attached the glazing... not the end of the world, and once the thick framing has been applied it'll hopefully not be too noticeable... The cockpit glazing is now complete, and has been faired into the main airframe: The de-icer units have also been made from plastic card and stretched sprue and added to the front of the windscreen: From the front the distinctive shape of the Halifax cockpit becomes apparent - I feel the kit captures this well: I've also made a start on priming the model - I've begun at the tail end and will work my way forwards. Halfords' white primer was used as this shows up any blemishes well. So far, so good: And a couple of shots with the cockpit complete: Jut a final few aerials to add now... Until next time, Tom

A little more to share with you this evening... I've painted the upper cockpit internals and added them to the engineer's/pilot's bulkhead. I added some thin wire to represent the radio mast wiring that runs down the left side roof strut: I've also had a final test fit of the cockpit glazing, and have also started to prepare the nose transparency. They fit superbly, and I'm glad I spent a lot of time earlier in the build trimming and test-fitting as is't paid dividends now: I've also added the internal framework to the wing-cell bomb winch apertures: And have finished off the roof escape hatch framework: And finally I've made the trim tab actuators on the elevators and rudders from card and stretched sprue: A few more small steps completed. The next job will be to attach the cockpit transparency and paint the internal framing, as well as continuing to add the smaller details such as fuel tank vents and various other aerials. Until next time, Tom

Story of my life, Cees... I'd say have a go! Vacs are by far the most fun I have at the modelling desk. Challenging? Yes. But they have made me a better modeller and have taught me a host of new skills I'd never have needed to learn if I just built 'regular' kits. Just be prepared for a lot of trial and error (not to mention filling and sanding!) but at the end of it you'll have a very unusual model to add to your collection. I've done the Combat B-17 and B-24 in 1/32nd, and the ID Lancaster and B-29. Along with this project I have also have a 1/32nd Sunderland ready to go, too. I'd never seen another in those scales at any shows until the arrival of the HK B-17. And now no doubt HK will be planning a Halifax... Tom

I've been having a play with the cockpit framing over the last few evenings as there is fairly prominent bracing behind the pilot/engineer's bulkhead. With the transparency test fitted you can see the problem - in this scale you can see something needs to be done as it's far too bare in there: The solution was to check my references and build the upper part of the bulkhead from Evergreen strip and tubing, as well as the escape hatch framework, with the following result: And a test fit on the model: And finally under the canopy: Now all that's needed is a quick coat of paint... Tom

Cees, The first step was to offer the spinner up against the plans and mark out the postition for the blades on the spinner itself. Once I'd cut the apertures, it was then a case of inserting each blade and sticking it directly against the backing plate - and a quick check on the plan before the CA glue completely set. There is no 'hub' as such - everything is sectured to the backing plate. As you can't see anything inside the spinner it all works rather well. The pitch was done purely by eye - they are all in fairly fine pitch apart from the feathered prop which will go on No2. Tom

Thanks for the kind words chaps... much appreciated. Tom